SCP Survival

Best Survival Gear and Supplies

DIY Masonry Heaters [pictures and diagrams]

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The heart of a homestead is the hearth. And when our off grid family was making building decisions, the choice to have a masonry heater was the first one they made.

Their masonry wood heater was a DIY project built from native limestone and includes a baking oven. It was built in the center of the home so that its warmth could radiate outward and upward to keep the whole home cozy and warm in the northern winters.

Only the doors, firebrick, piping and mortar were purchased to create this mammoth heater. The cast iron doors were purchased from a masonry stove dealer in Vermont, and the rest locally.

So just how efficient is it? 

Well, the owners of this masonry stove said they only need to burn a fire once a day to keep the whole house warm unless it is below zero, then two fires a day suffice. And they only used three cords of wood between the masonry heater AND the wood cook stove last year!

I was very impressed with that, given that I used an average of seven cords of wood every winter for my very efficient wood stoves.

The upper stove is a baking oven. The owners often bake bread and pizzas in the oven, just after the fire has died down, or use it was a “warming drawer”.

In the basement, directly below the masonry stove is this ash can—a large galvanized trash can. Note the strength of the cement block wall to hold the weight of the stone above it. If you have ever dealt with wood stoves you realize immediately how convenient this is to clean out the ashes! Plus the wood ash is excellent for making lye and enriching the garden (do not use wood ash where you plant potatoes as they will scab).

With the masonry heater being the first decision that was made in building this homestead, the rest of the home was designed around the concept. Heat rises and fills the upstairs sleeping areas with warmth. A round antique heat vent in the upstairs of the home allows the radiant heat to rise more efficiently than just through the stairwell.

A Brief History of Masonry Heaters

The earliest known use of masonry heating technology dates back all the way to the Neoglacial and Neolithic periods of human history. These ancient civilizations are said to have used the smoke of fires to provide radiant heat for their underground homes. 

In all of human history, the Kang bed-stove is one of the earliest known instances of modern masonry heater technology. From as early as 5000 B.C., these Chinese “bed-stoves” were multi-person dwelling units primarily made of huge blocks of masonry to retain heat in colder climates. Around the world, forms of masonry heat grew organically in low temperature areas like Eastern Europe and Northern Asia, adopting various forms and names in countries like Russia and Sweden.

Eventually, masonry heaters lost popularity to forms of electric and gas heat found in most homes today. With that said, masonry heaters have seen a renewed popularity in recent years for its ability to provide a sustained off-grid source of heat. 

Other Names for Masonry Heaters

Masonry heaters have been used in many different cultures and have therefore been called several different names. Here are some of the most common alternative names for masonry heaters:

  • Masonry Fireplace
  • Masonry Oven
  • Masonry Furnace
  • Masonry Stove
  • Russian Stove

Additionally, some masonry fireplaces are covered in tile. In these cases, a masonry oven can be referred to as a: 

  • Cocklestove
  • Kachelofen
  • Tilestove
  • Or Ceramic Stove

Why do People Like Masonry Heaters? 

People have been using masonry heaters, or early forms of the device, for thousands of years. This is because they are one of the best ways to heat a home for long periods of time, without being overly expensive to run. 

Masonry fireplaces can easily warm a dwelling for an entire day, with very little upkeep required. Primarily, masonry furnaces are fueled with firewood. In the right areas with a lot of tree coverage, this makes the system very sustainable and inexpensive for ongoing use. 

How do Masonry Heaters work?

Masonry heaters are devices that can be used to warm an interior space with radiant heating (similar to baseboard heaters, or hydronic heating in a floor). As they are named for the material, masonry heaters are made up of masonry, which is typically brick, soapstone, stone, tile, stucco, or a combination of several materials. 

To put it simply, masonry heaters work like a sponge. A wood fire is burned rapidly, usually one to two hours. Heat from the fire is captured within bricks, stone, or tile and “soaked in.” Once these materials have been warmed, they will continue to radiate heat for many hours. In an enclosed space like a living room, the radiant heat from a masonry furnace can be used to keep interior temperatures high, even in the dead of winter.

Masonry heaters are designed to be easy to both use and clean. Typically, a masonry furnace can be loaded with firewood and burned safely with the smoke escaping through a chimney. When in use, there are a few basic mechanical features that allow for people to safely operate the system, maximizing the amount of heat without comprising safety.

Upkeep is extremely important when considering the lifetime of a masonry heater. In addition to continuously unloading of the burnt ashes, the interior of a chimney should be accessible so that it can be properly cleaned regularly.

Best Downspout Diverter for Rain Barrels (plus a $7 DIY option!)

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In the quest for water self-sufficiency, one of the easiest and most baseline sources of water for preppers to take advantage of is rainwater harvesting.

This is usually done by collecting the water coming through your rain gutters and down through your downspout.

It doesn’t need to be complicated, but to get a simple system setup, there are a few bits of groundwork and supplies.

The 3 Best Downspout Diverters

One of the most import components of the whole thing is your downspout diverter. The diverter is the part that redirects water from running straight down the downspout and out into the landscaping, into a water barrel (or series of barrels).

Make sure to get a downspout diverter that is easy to install and high quality, so it doesn’t fail you in the middle of a rainstorm.

If you don’t already have one, these are the 3 best to check out:

1. Gutterworks Inline Downspout Diverter 

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A simple piece that connects directly to your downspout, the Gutterworks Inline Downspout Diverter makes collecting rainwater a breeze.

Part of what makes this downspout diverter so special is its versatility. If you want to place your barrel right in front of it, water will pour directly in. Should you opt for a larger barrel, you can connect a more elaborate tube system for longer transport to bigger collection basins.

As a failsafe for when your barrel reaches capacity, a simple flip of a switch turns the diverter system back into a traditional gutter and downspout. Rather than allow your barrels to overflow, the switch makes it so that rain runs to, and out, the downspout.

Pros:

  • Comes in two different sizes (2×3 & 3×4)
  • Multiple color options

Cons:

  • Complete diverter is on the larger size, requires additional room for installation

2. Earthminded Flexfit Diverter 

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If you’ve had the pleasure of tapping a Maple tree, you’ll have no problem figuring out how the Earthminded Flexfit Diverter works and is installed (and if you live in an area where you can’t get syrup in your backyard, it’s not a difficult process to learn).

Due to the smaller opening, this diverter makes the most sense for people placing barrels directly under their downspouts. While rain frequency and roof size should not completely regulate your purchase, it must be considered. If you plan on collecting rainwater off of a smaller roof, or even a shed, there is not a better diverter out there.

Pros:

  • Built-in overflow protection
  • Easily installed into new or existing downspouts

Cons:

  • Only fits 3×4 rectangular downspouts 

3. Oatey Rainwater Diverter 

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It might take a few steps to install, but the Oatey Rainwater Diverter is about as effective of a system as any other. Thanks to a seamless design, the structure of your existing downspout is unchanged, but waterflow certainly is. With four feet of hosing included, you can easily build this system to fit your home.

One of only downsides is that there is no overflow protection. For most people this is not a big deal. On the other hand, for those who are saving their water for a “rainy” day, or who do not have overflow protection in their actual barrels, it could lead to flooding in the immediate area. Bottom line, use the water you collect and you have nothing to worry about.

Pros:

  • UV Coating is not weakened if you paint the diverter
  • Requires minimal changes to existing downspout

Cons:

  • Only fits 2×3 rectangular downspouts (Know your size!)

Best Downspout Extensions

If you have more rainwater than can fit in 1 barrel, the best thing to do is get more barrels, and connect them in sequence, so that you can continue to harvest water.

But whether you have 1 barrel or many, if you aren’t using your rainwater quick enough, eventually you will have too much to hold.

What do you do with the rainwater you cannot collect? Do you let it pool around the foundation of your house, which over time will cause considerable and costly structural damage? Absolutely not.

If you don’t want flooding, and you don’t want damage, you need to reroute the excess water. This is usually done with a downspout extension (also called a downspout extender) or splash block. Thanks to a variety of products, finding the perfect fit for your home is no problem.

While some are more complicated than others, all products of this nature have the same goal—get the water away from your home. As to how they accomplish this, that’s where things start to differ.

Downspout extenders and splash block’s come in all shapes and sizes. Additionally, they can be installed above or below the surface. They’re easy to see and serve a practical purpose. 

You won’t trip over them and they require little to no maintenance. As long as they’re installed properly, this is a water collection component that you can set and forget.

These are our 3 favorites, which you can see below. By giving you a little taste of the variety out there, we know that you’ll be able to find an extender that works for you. 

Best Downspout Filters

These components go by many names—filters, downspout screens or strainers. Regardless of what you call it, they serve the same purpose. These protect your downspout from clogging at the hands of leaves, debris and anything else floating around the air. 

Downspout screens make it so you do not need to regularly clean your gutters since they will not become clogged as easily. Additionally, they ensure rainwater is the only thing getting through your downspout. As long as you’re okay going all the way up to the top of your roof, installing a proper screen will pay off in dividends.

There are people out there who are stuck with the antiquated perception that filters, screens and strainers don’t work. This is because they haven’t had the pleasure of using the right one. Even ten years ago, these claims were valid—now, not so much.

In the past, these measures have been both ineffective and difficult to maintain. Thanks to recent advances and a considerable amount of resources allocated to perfecting their designs, there are now effective products available. Below, we’ve included the two we’ve found to work the best.

Check out filters like this one, or these.

Best Rain Barrels:

Where does the water you collect go? Even though you’ll be using it to water your lawn, plants and for a variety of other things, you can’t just fill a watering can. You need a large barrel with a system in place for you to use the water without moving the tank. That’s where rain barrels come in.

These aren’t your typical barrels. On the outside, they appear rather plain. Inside, they feature a variety of protections that ensure your water remains pure and unaffected by any external hazards. Between screens to keep bugs and debris out and strong seals keeping the structure intact, these are of vital importance. Not to mention, these won’t leak.

Since these barrels will sit outside, unprotected from the sun, they need UV protection. While water can never go “bad”, without additional protection, harmful chemicals will infiltrate your water supply. With this protection, you don’t need to worry about keeping your water safe, it will be ready for when you need it.

Getting one of these is non-negotiable. Having a rain collection system without a proper barrel is pointless. Take a look at our top choices for rain barrels below.

Best Gutter Downspout Guards

If your roof sits below large trees, or is otherwise exposed to a lot of debris, you’re going to need a little more protection. That’s where gutter downspout guards come in.

Rather than cover only where your downspout and gutter connect, Gutter guards span the length of your roof. Whether you have 22 feet or 5100 feet of gutter to cover, companies like Flexxpoint have you covered.

At minimum, gutter downspout guards will prevent excess leaves and debris from clogging your gutters. At peak efficiency, these additional fixtures will help you dramatically cut down on the number of times you need to get up on the roof and clean out your gutters (or hire someone to do the same thing).

DIY—Want to create your own? 

Sometimes buying a standard product doesn’t help fill all of our needs. Sometimes we need to take things into our own hands if we want them done right. Collecting rainwater is not exempt from this.

Well, if you’re more of a DIY-type person, you’re in luck. You can get a kit that requires a little more assembly, like those offered by EarthMinded. With their rainwater collection kit, you will have no problem transforming your downspout and other household items into a sturdy system for conserving water.

If you want to go even more “bare bones”, there’s another option you can put together on the cheap.

For less than $7 you can create a DIY downspout diverter for your rain barrel that looks good and will remove in the winter in less than 30 seconds and the unit will self-store!

My Experience Creating a Rain Barrel Diverter

I’ve had my rain barrels for two years now trying to figure out a way that I can divert the rainwater from the gutters into the barrels without breaking the bank. Plus, I didn’t want to take apart the gutters to add the diverters. I have four rain barrels so this was sounding like a lot of work.

After two years of contemplating the problem, I came up with this solution and LOVE IT!

The first one I put in was horizontal. I tested it by throwing a hose on the roof, running water into the gutter and out the water came! That is when I noticed that I needed caulk.

These are created from the “Ground Spout” which I purchased at Menards for something like $5 or $6 apiece (if you don’t have a Menards near you, any other hardware store should have them or Amazon does).

They will mount either vertically or horizontally on a standard 4″ down spout. Because not all of my pictures turned out for the first horizontal installation, so I am showing you the vertical installation with a few of the horizontal pics that turned out.

How To Make a DIY Rain Barrel Diverter

5 gallon bucket with rain barrel

First, you need to install and level your rain barrel. I used four cement blocks stacked because it would get the spout high enough to put a five gallon pail under it.

I also created treated plywood bases for my barrels. It was easy to level (actually I tipped them slightly forward) because under the board I put a slip of wood where I needed it.

If you have a lot of wind where you are your empty barrels may want to tip over. If needed – placing a cement block on top will hold it in place.  Be sure to note where your overflow valve is pointing.

Then you need to find a leftover piece of vinyl flooring and cut it. You should be able to tape the photos to make them larger if needed.

Now figure out where and how you want your diverter placed on the down spout. Pre-drill the rectangular piece of plastic in the corners for your screws.

Take the rectangular piece and trace around the inside with a Sharpie marker and mark your screw holes so that you can pre-drill for the holes (this took a smaller marker for me).

Now drill some fairly large holes INSIDE the marked out hole so that you can insert tin snips (that is what I had on hand, but it would work easier with a jigsaw and metal black).

Once you have cut out the hole (Don’t sweat this as it won’t show or very little of it will only during the winter. Just mash the edges down with a pliers if you are concerned about the sharpness).

Pre-drill the screw holes with the appropriate bit. I am using small diameter self-tapping metal screws. Perhaps a man could get them to self-tap, but I couldn’t. Now put caulk all around the hole. I used clear silicone caulk.

Set your screws into the plastic first – Trust me, it is easier having dropped a half dozen screws trying to put them in without starting them first. Now screw it into the downspout.

Next, fold the long side of the vinyl flooring for insertion. Then, insert the vinyl into the hole and push to flatten again the sides.

Make any adjustments you need with a scissors to the vinyl.  Now put the ground spout hose on and clip it in. If you have any bend at all it won’t stay put.

Pre-drill a hole through the top of the rectangular piece for the cotter pin and pre-drill a hole in the bottom round into the round for another cotter pin. Take it down and drill a couple of holes where you need to for some fishing line.

Note: You could just use a nail or a screw but I wanted something very easy to detach some winter and I wanted it to self-store. Fishing line is pretty much invisible and extremely weather resistant. I can pull the pins, not lose them for next year, pull the vinyl and shove it into the spout and lay it to the side until spring.

Now put the spout back in place and insert the pins. If you have a wicked turn, you may need a screw. Try to put it where you can reach it without going on a ladder come winter. More useful information about rain barrel/tanks installation and accessories can be read here.

Done for the year!

Ready to Give it a Shot?

Once your rainwater collection system is in place, you’re ready to begin conserving water.

You can go to a hundred houses and see a hundred different rainwater collection setups. And here’s the thing–none of them are wrong. As long as they accomplish the goal of safely collecting and storing rainwater, they check all the boxes they need to.

Your system can be as simple or as complex as you’d like. At the end of the day, the only thing that matters is that you are storing water.

WaterBob Review – Bathtub Emergency Water Storage Container

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Waterbob Bathtub Bag

The WaterBob bathtub bladder is an ideal water storage solution for emergency situations. Due to the food-grade plastic, WaterBob’s drinking water storage system keeps up to 100 gallons of water safe for 16 weeks.

People like this product because:

  • It’s inexpensive (price hovers right around $35)
  • It’s easier to store than other water storage strategies, such as large barrels.
  • You can deploy it easily, with just a few minutes (as long as it would take to fill up a bathtub)

Like what you hear? You can see the full specs and details on the official WaterBob bathtub bag on Amazon here.

Algae Bloom Threatens Water Security for Ohio Residents
Unseasonably warm temperatures in the summer of 2014 contributed to an algae bloom in Lake Erie, threatening the water supply for many Ohio residents (via EcoWatch).

Here’s the quick version:

There have always been threats to our supply of clean drinking water–tornados, hurricanes, earthquakes, and other natural disasters. I had family members near Toledo who had to use bottled water for nearly a month. Due to an unusually warm summer, toxic algae eventually contaminated the surrounding water supply.

One of the most critical things to remember is that if you are on municipal water, a power outage almost always means no water as well (pumps can’t run). 

Without a solid emergency water plan , you leave yourself vulnerable during survival situations. Once the grocery stores run out of clean water, you’ll find yourself at the mercy of strangers and organizations like FEMA and the Red Cross.

Waterbob Emergency Drinking Water Storage
The Waterbob uses the space of your bathtub to give you a relatively low-cost way to quickly store 100 gallons of water.

Real Stories of the WaterBob in the Wild

Since WaterBob began selling its bathtub water storage system, people from all over the world have attested to the product’s usefulness. With over 1,200 ratings on Amazon, this puppy has a 4.7/5 (at time of writing). 

In one 5-star review, a two-time hurricane survivor wrote:

Used the WaterBob During Hurricanes Matthew and Irma

A Florida resident faced the worst-case scenario: no power for an entire week:

Used WaterBob in Florida Hurricane

Finally, a Hurricane Matthew victim found the WaterBob Bathtub Water Storage useful once the storm hit:

Survived Hurricane Matthew with the WaterBob Bladder

WaterBob Pros

  • WaterBob’s product comes in a small compact container, which makes convenient storage.
  • Constructed of FDA-approved, food-grade plastic
  • It’s effortless to set up and holds about a hundred gallons of water for up to sixteen weeks.
  • The included pump system is convenient for filling

WaterBob Cons

  • The biggest con is that you need to actually have 15-30 minutes of notice, in order to actually fill it up. This makes it PERFECT for disasters like hurricanes, tornadoes, ice storms, rolling blackouts or fires, but probably not a lot of help in something immediate like an earthquake or sudden power outage.
  • You can only use the WaterBob storage system once. However, it’s only $35, so buying another won’t wreck your bank account.
  • Doesn’t hold as much water as storage barrels or water bricks

How To Use Your WaterBob

Using the WaterBob water storage container is intentionally straightforward. It’s easy to hook up to your bathtub faucet and takes less than half an hour to fill.

  1. Remove the bladder from the box, and unfold it.
  2. Then, you’ll find a valve at one end to hook up to your bath’s faucet. When you spread the container out in your tub, make sure the filling valve is closest to the drain.
  3. Connect the tube to the lid and tap, and start running the water.
  4. Your WaterBob will take about 15 to 30 minutes to fill, and then you’re good to go. 
  5. If you’re going to add water purification drops, it’s a good idea to add them shortly after filling, so you don’t forget, and the drops can begin treating the water.
  6. When you need to fill up a day’s worth of water in a jug, use the included pump to access the water for drinking, cleaning, cooking, and flushing.

Here’s a few more important details:

About WaterBob The Company

Tony Woodruff, the inventor of the WaterBob Bathtub Water Storage, created this product after watching countless people scramble for supplies amid natural disasters. Once officials declared an emergency, people were left to their resources to prepare. In a scramble for survival, the news showed people frantically stocking up on food and bottled water.

Over time, Tony Woodruff developed his water storage system so people would have access to drinking water until help arrived. During events like hurricanes, essential utilities can stay out for weeks at a time. But even if these basic needs remain running, flooding can contaminate essential running water.

WaterBob constructs their water containers using the highest quality, BPA free materials. Various prepper books like Lights Out have mentioned this product, and it’s appeared on channels such as CNN and National Geographic. With over a thousand positive reviews, it seems Tony Woodruff succeeded in his goal of creating a secure water storage system.

Flint Michigan Water Crisis - Water Preparedness
A Michigan resident shows a container of highly lead-contaminated water from the Flint water supply, next to another bottle from Detroit.

The WaterBob Bathtub Water Storage is Great For Everyone

WaterBob’s product is a godsend for those left vulnerable to powerful natural disasters like hurricanes, tornadoes, and more. Having this sixteen-week buffer of drinking water will help to make sure you give help enough time to arrive.

This product is especially suited for people who live in city apartments or who just don’t have room for a couple of water barrels. While larger products store more water, many people either can’t afford them or don’t have the necessary storage space.

Urban preppers especially love this product because the plastic containment system is easy to store. The only thing to keep in mind is storing an unused WaterBob system in a dry place.

Also, when you do fill it with water, try to keep the inflated system away from direct sunlight. Too much exposure can lead to algae growth. WaterBob recommends only using this system once since you might not completely drain it afterward. The excess water can then lead to future contamination after exposure to the outside air.

Why Storing Safe Water is Important

It’s never safe to assume your community is immune to water and food shortages, but the events in Flint, Michigan, shattered any lingering misconceptions.

According to the CDC, in 2017, nearly 7,000 Americans died from illnesses contracted via contaminated water. These diseases include dysentery, typhoid, and hepatitis.

According to WaterBob, most people use over 150 gallons of water a day. However, what’s frightening is that a person can survive only a couple of days without water. So when you’re preparing for an emergency, you should have at least a three-day supply. A general rule for this is one gallon allotted to every person per day.

But you also need to keep in mind that water needs vary from person to person, and preparation requires personally customized plans.

Emergencies strike without warning, often leaving you little to no time for preparation. For example, water scarce areas in the West have already tasted the danger of a water-shortage. This effect will amplify, especially as more water reservoirs dry up from farming and other purposed.

Natural disasters are another big risk, since hurricanes and pandemics can leave people and necessities separated for a long time. WaterBob’s storage system costs only $35, meaning you’re not sacrificing much for this long-term investment.

Water Bricks for Water Storage
The “Water Bricks” pictured here are an extremely sturdy, modular way to build water storage little by little, but present a logistical nightmare when you think about rotating the water inside (via YouTuber “7 Trumpets Prepper”).

Other Water Storage Solutions

Aquapod Bathtub Bladder

WaterBob isn’t the only bathtub bladder company out there; it’s just the best. Other companies, such as AquaPod, offer similar products that only hold about 70 gallons. AquaPod’s water storage system will keep your water clean, but only for about eight weeks. In comparison, WaterBob’s product keeps your water supply clean for up to sixteen weeks.

55 Gallon Water Storage Barrel

Water storage barrels are a great option if you have the real estate and the cash on hand. Each barrel costs somewhere a hundred and two hundred dollars, and take up a considerable amount of space. However, two of these barrels can keep a family of four hydrated for about a month.

Auguson Farms has a great option that includes filtration bottles. When you treat the water, it has a four-year shelf life so long as you store it in a cool area.

Water Bricks

Water bricks are similar to storage barrels. However, water bricks are smaller and storage-friendly to stack. The benefit to products like Reliance’s “Aqua-tainer” is that it holds seven gallons and only costs around $15 on Amazon. 

While water bricks are more accessible to store than barrels, they don’t hold nearly the same amount of water as products like WaterBob’s bathtub bladder. They also pose a logistical nightmare when you think about rotating out the water in them on a yearly basis. 

FAQs About The WaterBob and Water Storage

Can my bathtub actually support the weight of a full WaterBob? 

A WaterBob will hold 100 gallons of water. At 8.3 lbs. per gallon, that is about 830 pounds of weight in your bathtub. This seems like a lot of weight, but remember, it’s the same amount of weight that a bathtub always holds when it’s full of water…. only this time, it’s in a plastic bag. 

How does the Water Bob hand pump work?

You get the water out via a hand-pump device, a “siphon pump”; you unscrew a cap and place the pump when you want to take water out, and replace the cap when you are finished removing water, until the next time.

The hand pump is a simple device. It has an opaque plastic hose attached. You are supposed to place a water containment unit (pitcher, whatever you want to put the water in) BELOW the level of the hand pump. That could get tough as the water reduces in the tub, just being honest about it.

Can I really only use the Water Bob once?

Per the instructions that come with WaterBob, you should scrap it after 1 use. To quote the instructions:

“When fresh water is no longer needed, slit the side of the liner and drain the remaining water. The bladder should be disposed of and recycled.”

I called the company and inquired as to “why”. The answer was about what I expected: “because it’s impossible to get all the water out and it can be contaminated.” Translation? Covering our butts so when someone claims they got sick from repeated use, we can say, “we told you to use it once.” Because a Waterbob is difficult to fully dry, contamination from mold and mildew are a potential threat forever afterwards.

However, some preppers that live in hurricane prone areas have reported using them more than once, exclusively for showering and flushing toilets. 

How often do I need to rotate my water supply? 

About every year, you should switch out the water in your containers. While proper storage allows you to store water indefinitely, it’s always safe to change out the supply. This process is necessary because different bacteria can form over time. Also, the longer you store water, the worst it will taste over time. Combat this by swishing around the contents to mix it with more oxygen.

Conclusion

The WaterBob water storage system is one of the best short-term solutions. Developed to help people stranded by hurricanes and other natural disasters, it uses the space of your bathtub to give you a relatively low-cost way to quickly store 100 gallons of water, and is a superior alternative to fighting through the crowds for a week’s worth of water bottles.

Are Motorcycles Good Bug Out Vehicles?

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Motorcycle Bug Out Vehicles

Whether your preferred acronym is TEOTWAWKI (The End Of World As We Know It), SHTF (Shit Hits The Fan) or GOOD (Get Out Of Dodge), a common argument among survivalists revolves around the preferred mode of transportation.

Among those choices, a motorcycle may not be best for your particular situation, especially if your family extends beyond two people. A motorcycle would also be a poor option for protection when plowing through god-knows-what in a post-apocalyptic world and cannot carry much supplies when the situation arises.

But a two-wheeler also has many benefits in survival situations. Here are just a few:

1. Motorcycles Have Incredible Fuel Economy

When Superstorm Sandy slammed into the New York-New Jersey area in October of 2012, residents had to travel upwards of 60 miles and wait for hours in line just to get a few gallons of gasoline for their cars and generators. It even created a black market with gas being sold for more than $20 per gallon. It’s situations like these that justify a motorcycle as the perfect survivalist conveyance.

The 2013 Honda NC700x will easily get you over 60 miles on one gallon of gas, while the Kawasaki Ninja 250R and Suzuki TU250X push the 80 mpg threshold. The key is to buy and store several gallons of gasoline before disaster strikes. The American Petroleum Institute recommends storage in a cool, dry place separate from your main dwelling, like in a garage or shed. You’ll need to add a stabilizing agent to keep the gas from breaking down into a useless liquid. Sta-Bil is one of the most popular fuel preservers, and will keep gas fresh for up to 12 months.

The best practice is to refresh the gas every six months or so while civilization is still intact.

2. Highly Maneuverable on Narrow Pathways

Anybody who has driven through Los Angeles during rush hour knows the frustration of spending upwards of 30 minutes to travel a mere five miles. Those same people are envious (or worried) about all the motorcycle riders weaving their way through traffic and getting to their destinations in minimal time.

A motorcycle is perfect not only for maneuvering through evacuation traffic, but also for getting around fallen trees, wreckage, and other debris that may be blocking your path. You can also use it as an exploration vehicle to scout potential camp sites and refuges in the mountains and woods.

A two-wheeler, however, does not provide heat and shelter from the elements. A motorcycle jacket with both waterproof lining and quilting for warmth is essential for anyone who wants to explore and travel in comfort in a post-apocalyptic world. Or you can use a pickup truck with a loading ramp attached to it to drive a truck with an option of a motorcycle. You should also attach a rear cargo trunk or saddlebags to your bike for storage, as opposed to a cargo trailer that takes away maneuverability.

3. Motorcycles Double As Generator

The longer you’re able to survive in a post-apocalyptic world, the more you’ll have to utilize things for purposes not originally intended. A motorcycle can provide you power for lights and other necessities in a pinch. Simply remove the wheels from your bike, put it on some type of stand, and mount a generator head to it. The tension pulley for the belt will then need to be replaced with a sprocket.

These are the two primary steps, but keep in mind this is a project best suited for someone with a background in electricity. But if you understand the basic concepts of alternating and direct current, along with having a little mechanical inclination, a motorcycle engine can serve as a fuel-efficient generator. Pick up a good automotive electronics book and read a few pages everyday until you have a basic understanding of electricity.

A motorcycle can prolong and even save your life in a survival situation. Just make certain to practice riding before everything goes to hell so you can reap all the benefits.

Note on Safety: Riding motorcycles involve certain risk aspects which regular vehicles do not. With that said it is always recommended to wear a helmet designed for motorcycle use. You just never know.

Tachypsychia and The “Fight or Flight” Response in Survival Situations

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Tachypsychia

Tachypsychia is a must talk about subject when one discusses survival events, or personal involvement in a survival/combative situation.

For someone affected by tachypsychia, time either seems to:

  • lengthen, making everything seem slow, or
  • contract, so things seem like they’re moving in a speeding blur.

People frequently associate tachypsychia with what is called the “fight or flight” response, and martial arts instructors often refer to it as the “tachy psyche” effect.

What is Tachypsychia?

Let’s start with the scientific definition: Tachypsychia is a neurological condition that alters the perception of time, usually introduced by physical exertion, prolonged stress, drug use, or a traumatic event.

Biologically, tachypsychia is triggered after you experience high levels of norepinephrine and dopamine, which are induced by stress. These chemicals affect the visual system, especially the processing speed of your visual uptake.

Because of this, during tachypsychia you are likely to have a feeling that time is either moving faster or slower. Epinephrine hormones cause this effect, due to increased brain activity. The condition might also have slowing brain activities, which are caused by Catecholamine washout.

Seeing Things in “Slow Motion”

The question many people ask is, do you see things flowing in slow motion? The aspect of seeing things moving in slow motion is quite unusual. Specifically, it is a phenomenon called “akinetopsia.”

While in this state, someone can see objects without perceiving the movement for a certain period. Because of this, seconds can feel like minutes, and minutes feel like hours.

Other Effects That Correlate With Tachypsychia Situations

The most common experience during tachypsychia is the feeling that time has either increased or slowed down, but during these situations, it’s common to experience other physical changes as well, ranging from:

  • Increased heart and blood pressure rates, which may cause fainting. This is not an advantageous condition to experience when trying to survive!
  • Dilation of bronchial passages and the pupils, which causes a higher absorption of oxygen into the blood stream (good) and allows more light into the pupils, leaving us with visual exclusion or tunnel vision (bad).
  • Auditory exclusion or sensitivity
  • An increase in pain tolerance
  • Loss of color vision
  • Short term memory loss
  • Decreased fine motor skills
  • Decreased communication skills
  • Decreased coordination
  • A release of glucose into our system generating extra energy

It is also common for individuals to have serious misrepresentations of their surroundings during the events, through a combination or their altered perception of time, as well as transient partial color blindness and tunnel vision.

Other than the superhuman effects we can experience during tachypsychia, there may also be some unpleasant side effects. It’s possible to lose track of your urinary tract and bowels after adrenaline is triggered. After the stressful experience that triggered tachypsychia, the body might feel burnt out or mentally taxed.

The “Fight or Flight” Response

The flight or fight response is very closely related to tachypsychia, and an experience everyone has gone through either consciously or unconsciously when faced with acute stress.

Biologically, the fight or flight situation affects the primitive instincts of human survival. Hormones are released, including: epinephrine, neurotransmitters, and catecholamine. Cortisol, estrogen, and dopamine might also affect our reaction to stressful situations.

People have testified of abnormal things that others do in a life or death situation. A sudden release of adrenaline causes people to do supernatural things, like a woman lifting a car to save her baby from a crash. During these situations, the reasoning part of your brain is not a function. It stops, and the response action overrides (not unlike the effects of cocaine and methamphetamines).

We become very vigilant, and all senses are on high alert and much more robust. The muscle memory acts without getting direction from the brain. It’s associated with jumping, running, or fighting back, with the crucial objective being survival. Breathing increases to allow the muscles to have more oxygen, and helps to scream louder.

Another interesting phenomenon called cutis anserina can also occur. This is where there’s tension in your skin due to fear or excitement, causing your hairs to quite literally “stand on end.”

Tachypsychia Situations

In a fire emergency, a victim may complain that they have been waiting over 30 minutes since they called 9-1-1. After the emergency is studied, the situation reveals that less than 10 minutes had elapsed since the victim called out.

In this scenario, the victim is under a high level of stress as they are watching the emergency scene unfold before them. Their inability to stop the stressor will add even more stress. Time can become distorted and may seem like 30 minutes instead of 10.

Tachypsychia scenarios can also happen frequently with firefighters themselves, and emergency responder officers. When a commander gives their juniors tasks, for instance, stretching the hose line into the right position to fight the blazing house fire, it can seem like their team members are moving very slow, and things are not done quickly enough.

How To Manage and Combat Tachypsychia

Tachypsychia is a hormonal condition and is chemically induced. This means there is very little you can do to manage the condition. As you experience more stressful situations, you may gradually adjust to the hormone releases and accompanying sensory effects.

In the case of emergency responders, it is essential to keep the passage of time. The dispatcher might announce the passage of time over the radio, in intervals of at least ten or five minutes. They can call out 5 minutes, 10 minutes, and 15 minutes and so on.

When I introduce this subject in firearms classes, I always come back to training. And by that, I mean good, relational, appropriate, meaningful training. This is what I mean:

Basic Skills – shooting one round at a time, deliberately, slowly, accurately, sight picture, sight alignment, center mass, good solid skills.

Advanced Skills – improve on your basic skills! Become more accurate, faster, smoother, better.

Apart from that, these tips may help cope with the effects of tachypsychia:

1. Exercise and be in a better physical condition. An improved cardio or heart health is a crucial player in working on the adverse effects of stress.

2. Try to relax. Easier said than done, but essential in being able to understand and make decisions, while dealing with your body’s response to acute survival.

3. For emergency responders and those with licensed firearms, spend quality training with the equipment. Be confident even in times of crisis. Quality training is what comes through for you in bad times.

To Sum It Up

Tachypsychia can be controlled if you learn to avoid stress and control how you react to stress. But it’s important to keep in mind that our bodies are programmed to behave in certain ways to keep us alive. When you’re in a life or death situation, a fight or flight response can be the very thing that saves you.

Tachypsychia FAQ

What is Tachypsychia?

Also called the fight or flight response, Tachypsychia is a neurological condition that alters the perception of time, usually introduced by physical exertion, drug use, or a traumatic event. Tachypsychia is believed to accompany numerous physical changes. Upon being stimulated by fear or anger, the adrenal medulla may automatically produce the hormone epinephrine (aka adrenalin) directly into the blood stream.

What is it called when time seems to slow down?

The medical and scientific term for this is “tachypsychia.” People affected by tachypsychia experience the perception of lengthening of time, making actions appear to slow down. It can also cause time to seemingly contract, making objects appear to be moving in a speeding blur.

Why does adrenaline slow time?

Upon being stimulated by fear or anger, the adrenal medulla may automatically produce the hormone epinephrine (aka adrenalin) directly into the blood stream, increasing the brain activity, and causing the feeling that time has either increased or slowed down.

7 Best Off Grid Washing Machines

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Best Off Grid Washing Machines

Off grid laundry has come up a number of times as a self-sufficiency topic for 2 reasons:

  1. Because many people in our crowd are wanting to be free from the electrical and water grids, and need find another way of washing clothes.
  2. Because we are also usually looking for ways to save money.

The reality is this though: an off grid washing machine is a necessity for anyone looking to spend a significant amount of time away from cities and towns, living off grid, or simply living a minimalist lifestyle. These machines range from small capacity, manually operated units to larger electric units with washing programs and spin dry capabilities.

The Short Answer

1. Giantex Full-Automatic Washing Machine

  • 10 programs and 8 water levels
  • 9.9-pound capacity
  • Child lock function
  • Automatic load balancer
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The Giantex Full-Automatic Washing Machine is a great option for making a dent in that laundry pile. It offers full control over washing functions, water levels, and delays via the LCD display. The child lock offers a handy way to lock all buttons and functions and sounds an alarm if the lid is opened, a great feature for homes with curious little ones. The clear lid allows users to monitor the washing progress and water condition.

The modestly sized cabinet is only 33.6” x 19.8” x 19.7”, and fits in nearly any nook of your cabin, boat, or camper. Once you have loaded the 9.9-pound capacity stainless steel honeycomb basket, simply hook up the water inlet to your faucet, position the drain hose, and set your wash program. This unit will auto-regulate water intake, and if the load becomes unbalanced, the auto-balance feature will pause the wash cycle and work to redistribute the load more evenly.

Other Great Off-Grid Washing Machines

2. Panda PAN6320W

  • Electronic control over 10 programs and 5 water levels
  • Water pump for quick discharge
  • Includes quick-connect adapters for standard faucets
  • 10-pound capacity
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Not only does the Panda PAN6320W have a full array of programs for load types, water levels, and wash durations, but it features a water pump to quickly empty the unit. This water can be discharged via the 55-inch long drain hose to any gray water holding tank or disposal area. It has an included water supply line with adapters ready for any standard US faucet type.

All this comes in a unit that is only 34” x 20” x 19”, and even includes casters for simple maneuvering in your RV, camper, or cabin. The stainless steel basket will not rust or corrode and can handle up to 10 pounds of clothes at a time. You will not have to worry about draining your solar battery array or having to stress your generator because this washer only requires 310W to run on a standard 110V grounded outlet.

3. Giantex Portable Mini Compact Twin Tub Washing Machine

  • 11-pound wash capacity, 6.6-pound spin-dry capacity
  • Dual water inlets
  • Separate wash and spin timers
  • Gravity drain
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The Giantex Mini Twin Tub model cuts out some of the bells and whistles, while still remaining a solid functioning washer, for a lower price point. The washer portion of the unit uses 260W, and the spin dryer uses just 140W, of standard 120V/60Hz power. The dual water intake allows you to fill the washer side manually but also allows some water to be added to the spin side, to better rinse the clothes of any remaining soap, while drying them.

One of the great things about this unit is it is significantly shorter than several others at just under 30 inches. This can be nice if you plan on storing it under a counter, table, or tucked away elsewhere. It measures 28.5” x 24.8” x 15”. The small size and lightweight come in handy when it needs to drain, it comes with a 20” hose to facilitate easily gravity draining the washtub.

4. KUPPET Compact Twin Tub Portable Mini Washing Machine

  • 18-pound wash capacity
  • Pump drain
  • 1300RPM spin dry
  • 280W wash & 140W dry
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The KUPPET Compact Twin Tub Portable Mini Washing Machine packs a whopping 18-pound wash capacity in a sleek and modern design. The controls are a clean and uncomplicated set of three dials, for the wash timer, wash selector, and spin timer. The stainless steel snap ring keeps the water supply line securely attached to nearly any faucet size or type.

This high efficiency portable washer can be stored easily as it measures only 33.4” x 27.9” x 17.3”, and comes with a 56” drain hose, so when the drain pump empties the tub, you can make sure the water goes where you want it without having to move the unit to drain.

The unit has a 15-minute wash timer and 5-minute dry timer, so you can be sure that you always have full control over your wash cycles, without having to babysit the unit.

5. SUPER DEAL Portable Compact Mini Twin Tub Washing Machine

  • 8-pound wash capacity, 5-pound dry capacity
  • Dual water inlet
  • Gravity drain
  • Cover plate for spin-dry tub
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The SUPER DEAL Portable Compact Mini Twin Tub Washing Machine packs a lot of power into a small cabinet. The unique pulsator agitates the clothes without damaging them or bunching up and throwing the washtub off balance.

Each tub has its own water inlet for easy filling and rinsing. Fill the washer side before starting the 15-minute wash timer, switch tubs and add a small amount of water while spinning in order to help rinse out any remaining soap, and ensure a clean and complete spin out.

The 26” x 13” x 12” cabinet is small enough, and at just over 26 pounds it is light enough, to be stored or moved just about anywhere. It comes with a handy cover plate for the spin tub, that minimizes splashing and keeps the nearly dry clothes from coming out during the spin cycle. Even when both tubs are working, this unit is extra quiet, as long as the loads are balanced.  

6. Wonder Wash Compact Washing Machine

  • 5-pound capacity
  • Fully non-electric
  • Gravity drain
  • Lever latch lid
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The Wonder Wash Compact Washing Machine is one of the most well-known and well-loved off grid washing machines. It is a fully non-electric hand washer for clothes, and requires only a slow crank to tumble the drum and agitate your clothes.

While the small 5-pound capacity seems small, the average two to five minute wash time and minimal water usage make it possible to do several loads of laundry per hour.

One of the great things about this fully manual unit is the ease of operation, right down to the lid. Instead of having to screw and unscrew the lid each time, there is a unique lever lock.

Simply lift the lever, swap the load, replace the lid and push the lever down and it’s ready for another tumble. This unit is one of the greenest options you can get, using zero electricity, and nearly 90% less water than standard washers.

7. Lavario Portable Clothes Washer

  • Fully non-electric
  • Powerflow technology
  • Uses 5 gallons per fill
  • Gravity drain
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The Lavario Portable Clothes Washer is another fantastic non-electric washer. Rather than a tumbler method, this washer uses a clothes basket nestled tightly in the water bucket.

Lifting and plunging the clothes basket activates the Powerflow Technology, where the push and pull strokes force water through the fabric to get your clothes clean quickly and completely. It uses minimal arm strength for maximum results. Gravity and buoyancy do most of the work.

Perfect for RVs, cabins, boats, or even apartments and dorm rooms. A typical load of laundry in the Lavario takes less than 20 minutes from first fill to last rinse and empty. Super lightweight and portable, this washer can go pretty much anywhere and doesn’t use any electricity.

Ready To Try Your Hand At Some Off Grid Laundry? Keep These Things in Mind:

  1. First of all, remember that if you live in a true “4 seasons” climate, winter is a nasty time to to air dry your clothes. With freezing temps and very little sun, it’s easy for clothes to turn to ice on the line.
  2. If you choose to get a wringer, remember that buttons and zippers will have a hard time passing through a wringer, and can actually be broken by it. In order to avoid this, just zip tie a thin sponge around either end – enough give to not break anything, but still get the water out. A manual clothes wringer and a few other types of off grid washing machines allow you to control how fast the clothes go through, so you can keep a closer eye and more careful touch on “problem clothing.”
  3. Watch fingers, hair, clothing… and…. other body parts near the wringer!

What To Look For In Your Off-Grid Washing Machine

Size

This is a consideration that many of us face when buying a new appliance for off-grid use. Not only is storage space at a premium, but when it is being used, it has to be worth the space it takes up.

For the electric units, you will need a nook, or closet, under-counter, or under-table space for it to live. 

For a smaller non-electric washer or manual washer machine, you can probably store them lots of places, even in the smallest broom closet. 

This size vs. function trade-off can be negotiated if you have large amounts of laundry. For example, if you have a spouse and multiple children, that laundry can pile up, and being able to wash 8-10 pounds at a time can make that extra size worth it.

Power

Depending on the type of off-grid environment you plan to use it in, this can be the deciding factor.

For use in situations where you have power, like cabins and RVs, you will want to be as economical as possible with your electricity. To this end, we have made efforts to lists the power consumption where possible, so that you can determine which ones will fit your needs. If you have the power to spare, an electric model might be right for you. They are a great combination of economy, portability, and convenience.

For scenarios where you are unable to spare the electricity, such as just getting started with solar, where you may not have a large battery bank yet, or even extended camping situations where you will not have power at all, then the fully manual models will be the best. You will still be able to do small loads quickly and efficiently. 

Capacity

When looking at the capacity, most models are measured in pounds of dry laundry that can fit in the basket. This is another point where you have to evaluate your specific needs. For a single person or a couple, you probably will not need more than a few pounds of laundry at a time, unless you space out your washings. If you wash for more than one or two people, it will probably be more economical for you to get a little larger unit, so that you will not have to do dozens of loads before you finish. 

Drying Ability

Drying is nearly a fully luxury option. Even the models that have a spin-dry tub, it will not get your clothes fully dry as a residential unit will. But there will be a convenience and time compromise between 

Gravity Or Pump Drain

This is another option that may be a luxury to some and a necessity for others. When you consider where you may be storing and using your washer, you may need the water pump for easy draining, or you might be able to just run the drain hose and let gravity do the work. Obviously the models with a drain pump will need electricity, so keep that in mind when evaluating your possible choices.

What About DIY Washing Setups?

The Windmill

I live on the edge of the prairie and we have several great wind farms within 10 miles of here. I’ve had a hankering to try building this wind driven washing machine for a while just as an experiment to see if I have enough wind to make this work as this property is nestled in a valley with an old RR truss blocking the west wind and that is what got me back on the subject of laundry.

wind washing machine

3-Bucket Setup for Rinsing and Wringing

I stumbled across a couple of posts on off grid laundry that have some unique ideas that I thought you may find valuable.

laundry 5 gallon bucket holey

The poster is working with a standard plunger type manual washer in a bucket, but her rinse setup is what impressed me! Three 5 or 6 gallon buckets, bottom one holds the grey water for reuse, middle one is full of holes to press the water out of the clothes, top one has a lid and you just sit on it to rinse the water out of the clothes. Very simple, low cost, and ingenious!

charming spinner

And what about getting the clothes even drier? The Charming Spinner! Amish built, or at least sold, works with an off-grid battery type setup and regular electric, and Lordy, I want one!

There is no such thing as an energy efficient dryer. Although the ones that have a solid top with the lint removal in front toward the bottom are about 20% more efficient. The thing is that the clothes come out of the washing machine wet, even if you spin them twice. She swears that this little spinner can save 1/2 the time in drying clothes – and yes, you have the grey water to reuse.

I save an easy $75 a year hanging my clothes out during the summer. However, the winter is dryer time. I’m thinking the Charming Spinner would pay for itself in about 2 years and be there in a preparedness situation. Please let me know if you have any experience with this little machine as I had not heard of it before.

The Industrial Mop Bucket

janitors bucket

How about the idea of using a simple janitor’s mop buck and the wringer as a clothes wringer?

I ran across this really neat manual washing machine with an agitating basket. And then I ran across an article by a gal who is using a simple janitor’s bucket to rinse and wring out her clothes – accessible, simple and effective.

FAQs

How do I do laundry off-grid?

Doing laundry off-grid is surprisingly similar to doing laundry using conventional residential washers and dryers, or commercial washers and dryers at a laundromat. For starters, regardless of whether you have an electric or non-electric unit, you will need a water supply.

Most of the electric units will have a water inlet similar to your conventional machines, where if you have a faucet or other source of pressurized water, the inlet hose attaches to that and you fill the machine after loading your clothes and adding your detergent.

You can also fill via the lid, by pouring your water in. This is handy if you use a rainwater catchment that is not pressurized. With a non-electric unit, you simply add the water manually.

Once the unit has your clothes, detergent, and water, it is time to wash. For the electric models, select your wash options and duration, and let it run. For the manual washers, you need to agitate them yourself, then drain and refill for the rinse. Electric units will drain automatically, whether it is via a drain pump or gravity drain. Some electric models will handle the water inlet and monitor the level, so they can wash, drain, and rinse all by themselves.

You want to make sure that you are discharging your dirty water to a greywater collection if you are trying to conserve water because unlike black water, greywater can be added to the garden beds or used for other utilitarian purposes. 

How do I use an off grid washing machine?

Using manual washing machines is extremely simple. Just fill them up and add water. Depending on the model, to agitate you will need to manually crank the handle to tumble the load like with the Wonder Wash or pull and push the basket up and down as with the Lavario. Once you have agitated the load for 2-5 minutes, the soiling should be sufficiently mitigated. After the first wash cycle, particularly with manual machines, you may need a second cycle if the clothes were heavily soiled or stained. So just add more water, a little more detergent, and repeat.

To rinse, simply fill with water without detergent, and agitate well for a few more minutes, then drain and either wring out your clothes or take them straight to the line for drying. Particularly with manual washers, wringing will speed up the dry time immensely, because there is no spin cycle to help remove the extra water before hanging up to dry.

Where do I buy an off-grid washing machine?

Like most things these days, you can obtain very economical and well-performing options from online marketplaces like Amazon. They will have enormous amounts of options and variants you can choose from. You will be able to find something that will fit your needs, without devastating your budget.

Of course, there are other options from other sources. There are off-grid suppliers, and shops that sell Amish-built goods, but generally speaking those options are incredibly expensive. There are all-metal manual washers that are nearly a thousand dollars, and for those of us living an off-grid lifestyle, that sort of expense for a laundry item is very nearly out of the question. You can spend about a fifth of that on a very useful electric or non-electric model, and with a few extra dollars at an antique store or yard sale pick up a roller wringer, and you have a laundry set up that will be of service for years to come.

How do I power my off grid washing machine?

There are two options, electricity, or elbow grease. Several of the units we have highlighted make use of conventional 120V power, and a few are fully manual. 

Electric units can be powered via a generator, or they can run from a solar or wind-powered washing setup with a battery bank and a modestly priced inverter. With the price of solar systems and lithium batteries becoming much more affordable than even 5 years ago, it is easier than ever before to have steady and reliable power for conveniences like small washers.

The manual washers operate without electricity, and instead use good old fashioned elbow grease. Nearly all types of manual washers require a crank to tumble the clothes, or a plunging motion to forces the water through the clothes and to agitate them. Either way, they tend to move the clothes around more, so your wash cycles with manual units tend to be shorter but more effective.

What kind of soap or laundry detergent will I need for my off grid washing machine?

The great part about all of these units we have showcased, is that they can use anything from standard high efficiency detergent, to homemade dry detergent mixes, to old fashioned bar soap shavings.

One of the bonuses to simplifying your life and going off-grid is that things you use end up being simpler to use as well. These small off-grid washers are simple, yet effective enough, that they do not have the delicate electronics and sensors that can get gummed up by using the “wrong” laundry detergent.

These machines do not have a preference. They use simple motors and simple pumps, so no matter what kind of soap you feed them, they should still do an amazing job of cleaning your clothes without taking up an entire room or costing an arm and a leg.

What’s the difference between washers, wringers, and spinners?

Wringing and spinning are both ways to get the water out of your clothes when you are done washing them. You can find wringers and spinners that are electrically powered or manual, although if you’re reading this post, I assume you’re probably thinking about going off grid (or at least “grid minimal“).

radical drying shirt

Wringing your clothes sends them through 2 rollers that tightly squeeze almost all the water out.

On the other hand, spinners use centrifugal force to pull water out of clothes as they are quickly spun around. Exact same concept as a washing machine that spins around at the end of the cycle.

Depending on how elaborate of an off grid laundry system you have, a wringer or spinner might be attached somehow or part of your washing machine, or if you’re washing your clothes in a bucket, it might be the only contraption you actually have.

On the whole, spinners are usually a better option. They are faster and less effort, and they tend to squeeze more water out of your clothes. Instead of having to crank your clothes through, 1 by 1, you can do a bunch at one time, and then hang them up to dry.

The Bottom Line

When it comes down to it, there is no one right answer for any one particular scenario. If you have power and a little bit of extra space, the Panda PAN6320W is the biggest bang for your buck. You get the convenience of a powerful washer, in a small space, with enough bells and whistles to make the expense worth it.

On the other hand, if power or space is a rare commodity, or you just plan on living without much of either, like extended camping periods, or use on a boat deck, then the Wonder Wash or the Lavario are great options, with the Wonder Wash being easier to use and smaller, with the Lavario able to handle slightly bigger loads and wash a bit more effectively per load.