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What Is the Best Long Term Food Storage?

May 23, 2026 by

If you have ever stared at a warehouse-sized bucket of emergency food and wondered whether that is really the answer, you are asking the right question. What is the best long term food storage for most families is not one magic product. It is a practical mix of cheap staple foods, the right packaging, and a storage plan you will actually maintain.

That matters because food storage fails in ordinary ways, not dramatic ones. People buy foods their family will not eat, store them in hot garages, forget to label buckets, or spend too much on freeze-dried meals before they have built a working pantry. The best system is the one that covers calories, nutrition, and shelf life without wrecking your budget.

What is the best long term food storage for a family?

For most middle-income households, the best long term food storage is a layered pantry built around dry staples, canned foods, and a smaller reserve of specialty items. The dry staples carry the calories. The canned foods add convenience, protein, fats, and familiarity. Specialty items such as freeze-dried produce or backup entrees fill gaps, but they should not be the foundation unless money is no object.

If you want a plain answer, start with white rice, dry beans, rolled oats, pasta, sugar, salt, canned meats, canned vegetables, canned fruit, peanut butter, powdered milk, and cooking oil. That combination is not glamorous, but it is affordable, widely available, and realistic for apartments and suburban homes.

There is a trade-off here. The foods that store the longest are often the foods that take more water, fuel, or time to prepare. Dry beans can last a long time if packaged well, but they still need soaking and cooking. Canned beans cost more per serving and take more space, but they are ready to eat. A smart family pantry usually keeps both.

The foods that actually make sense to store

White rice is one of the best long-term staples because it is cheap, calorie-dense, and stores well when protected from oxygen, moisture, light, and pests. Properly packed in mylar bags with oxygen absorbers and placed in buckets, white rice can remain usable for decades. Brown rice is different. Its natural oils shorten shelf life, so it belongs in your working pantry, not your deep storage.

Dry beans are another strong choice, especially pinto, black, and navy beans. They provide protein, fiber, and good value. The catch is age hardening. Very old beans may take much longer to cook and can become frustrating in a power outage if fuel is limited. That is why rice and beans are a good base, but not the whole plan.

Rolled oats, pasta, and flour each have a place, though they are not equal. Oats are versatile and relatively easy to prepare. Pasta stores well and is family-friendly. White flour has a shorter shelf life than whole wheat because freshness and baking performance matter, but it can still be useful in rotation. Whole wheat flour is more fragile because of its oil content.

Sugar and salt are worth storing even though they do not sound like emergency foods. Sugar is easy calories, useful in baking and food preservation, and stores indefinitely if kept dry. Salt is essential for cooking, morale, and preserving food. Neither should be packed with oxygen absorbers in the same way as dry staples. Salt especially can turn into a brick if handled incorrectly.

Canned meats matter more than many beginners expect. Tuna, chicken, salmon, Spam, roast beef, and canned chili provide ready-to-eat protein with minimal preparation. For realistic emergencies, that convenience matters. If your water is limited or your stove is down, canned food bridges the gap better than buckets of dry grains.

Canned vegetables and fruit help prevent the all-carbs pantry problem. They add vitamins, variety, and normalcy, especially for families with kids or older adults. They are heavier than dry goods and usually have a shorter shelf life, often two to five years for best quality, but they are easy to rotate through regular meals.

Then there are fats. This is where many food storage plans fall apart. You can survive on grains and beans for a while, but without stored fats your menu gets thin fast. Oil, shortening, peanut butter, and ghee can help, though shelf life varies widely. Oils are useful but vulnerable to heat and rancidity, so buy manageable sizes and rotate them consistently.

Packaging matters almost as much as the food

A good food choice can still fail in bad packaging. The biggest enemies are oxygen, moisture, heat, light, and pests. If you are storing food for more than a year or two, packaging is not optional.

For dry staples, the most practical setup is mylar bags, oxygen absorbers, and food-grade buckets with tight lids. A 5-gallon bucket typically holds around 33 pounds of rice, 25 to 35 pounds of beans depending on type, or about 20 pounds of oats. Mylar blocks light and helps protect against oxygen transfer. The bucket adds crush resistance and rodent protection.

Do not store dry staples loose in original paper or thin plastic bags and assume they are set for the long haul. Store packaging is meant for retail shelves, not decade-long storage. If you are building real reserve food, repackage it.

Canned foods are simpler. Keep them in a cool, dry place, off concrete if possible, and inspect them periodically for rust, swelling, leakage, or severe dents. Rotate by using the oldest first. That sounds basic because it is basic. Basic systems work.

Temperature is the hidden factor most people underestimate

Heat shortens shelf life fast. A cool interior closet is better than a garage. A basement is often better than an attic. Even the best-packed food will age poorly in a hot shed that swings from 40 to 100 degrees through the year.

As a rule, stable indoor temperatures beat convenience. If you have limited space, under-bed bins, closet shelves, and a spare room beat the garage every time. For urban and suburban families, the best long term food storage setup is often a distributed one: some in kitchen rotation, some in closet deep storage, and some in compact stackable bins.

Cost: a sensible pantry beats an expensive fantasy

You do not need a four-figure shopping spree to build useful food reserves. A basic one-month reserve for one adult can often be started for roughly $150 to $300 if you focus on staple calories and buy store brands. Add more convenience foods, canned proteins, and specialty items, and the price climbs.

For example, 25 pounds of rice may cost $15 to $25, 20 pounds of beans around $15 to $30, 10 pounds of oats around $10 to $20, canned vegetables and fruit roughly $1 to $3 per can, and canned meats $2 to $5 per can depending on type and brand. Buckets, mylar bags, and oxygen absorbers add upfront cost, but they protect the larger investment.

Freeze-dried meals and #10 cans have a place, especially for long shelf life and low storage weight. But they are expensive calories. They make more sense as a supplement than as the backbone of a budget family plan.

A practical way to build your storage without getting overwhelmed

Start with two weeks of foods your household already eats. Then expand to one month. After that, build a three-month pantry before worrying about a one-year supply. This staged approach keeps your system useful at every step.

A simple framework works well. First build your working pantry with canned soups, pasta, rice, oats, peanut butter, canned proteins, and shelf-stable basics. Next add deep storage staples in mylar and buckets. Then fill critical gaps with water storage, backup cooking, and manual tools. Food without water or a way to cook it is an incomplete plan.

Think in meals, not just ingredients. Rice, beans, canned chicken, canned tomatoes, pasta, oats, and seasonings can turn into familiar breakfasts and dinners. That makes rotation easier and reduces the chance you end up with a pile of ingredients no one wants.

Common mistakes that waste money

The first mistake is chasing shelf-life numbers while ignoring usability. A 30-year product is not a bargain if your family hates it or cannot prepare it.

The second is storing too little variety. Fatigue is real. People eat less when every meal feels like a punishment, and that matters more in stressful times.

The third is forgetting water, fuel, and kitchen basics. Dry food needs water. Rice and beans need heat. Even canned food is easier to manage with a manual can opener, simple seasonings, and a way to warm meals safely.

The last mistake is treating food storage like a one-time purchase. Good storage is a household system. You buy, label, date, stack, rotate, and replace. That is not exciting, but it is dependable.

So what is the best long term food storage? For most families, it is not a single product, and it is not the most expensive option on the shelf. It is a cool, organized pantry built around affordable staples, practical canned foods, and packaging that protects what you bought. Start with food your family will eat next week, then build outward until your pantry can carry you through a bad month with a lot less stress.

Filed Under: Uncategorized

Budget Long-Term Food Storage Guide: $150 for a Year

May 19, 2026 by SCPadmin

Why Budget Long-Term Food Storage Matters

In any emergency scenario—whether it’s a natural disaster, economic disruption, or supply chain breakdown—having food stored at home is one of the most fundamental insurance policies you can maintain. Unlike freeze-dried meals that can cost hundreds of dollars and cater to taste preferences, survival food storage focuses on macronutrients and micronutrients. When hunger sets in, people don’t care about gourmet flavors. A simple bowl of rice with beans becomes a luxury.

This is not something we haven’t covered before, but this will be a quick jump-start for you to build upon.

The key is understanding that survival nutrition isn’t about comfort—it’s about sustenance. While supplementing your storage with premium freeze-dried options like Mountain House provides morale-boosting variety, the backbone of your long-term food security should be built on affordable staples.

Budget Long-Term Food Storage: Complete Supplies List

Before you start buying bulk food, gather these essential supplies:

Containers and Storage Materials:

  • Five 5-gallon food-grade buckets with lids: $15-25 (approximately $3-5 per bucket plus $1-2 per lid)
  • Five 5-gallon mylar bags: $8-15
  • Oxygen absorbers/desiccant packs compatible with 5-gallon containers: $5-10
  • Sealing tool (household iron, heat sealer, or mylar crimper): $0 (likely already owned)

Food Items:

  • 100 pounds of rice (two 50-pound sacks): $35-50
  • 100 pounds of beans (two 50-pound sacks): $30-45
  • Additional protein and variety items: $20-30

Total Investment: $110-165

The beauty of this approach is that most items are available at wholesale retailers like Costco or Sam’s Club, and prices fluctuate seasonally. Shopping during sales or buying in off-season can push your total closer to $100-120.

Selecting Your Foundation Foods

50-pound sacks of rice and dried beans for budget long-term food storage setup

Rice: The Caloric Backbone

Rice is the foundation of long-term food storage. It’s inexpensive, calorically dense, and has a proven shelf life exceeding 25 years when properly stored. A 50-pound sack of long-grain or basmati rice typically costs $15-25 at wholesale retailers. Rice provides essential carbohydrates and, when combined with legumes, forms a complete protein.

Purchase two 50-pound sacks to ensure adequate variety and redundancy in your storage.

Beans: The Protein Powerhouse

Dried beans—particularly pinto beans, kidney beans, and chickpeas—are nutritional powerhouses. A single 50-pound sack provides months of protein for a family. Here’s why beans deserve their central role in survival food storage:

  • Chickpeas: Deliver 25 grams of protein per 100-gram serving. A 5-kilogram bag (about 11 pounds) contains approximately 1,250 grams of protein—enough for one person for a month
  • Kidney beans: Nearly complete proteins when combined with rice
  • Pinto beans: Affordable, versatile, and nutrient-dense

Two 50-pound sacks of beans cost $30-45 total. When combined with rice, beans and grains create a complete amino acid profile—everything required for human survival.

Secondary Proteins and Flavor Enhancers

Honey, maple syrup, canned corned beef, and seasonings for supplementing budget long-term food storage

While rice and beans form your caloric foundation, supplementary items add crucial nutrients, minerals, and morale:

Canned proteins: Corned beef, tuna, and salmon provide fat-soluble vitamins and omega-3 fatty acids. Corned beef, in particular, has a 5-year shelf life and transforms basic rice dishes into satisfying meals when mixed with dried onions and soy sauce.

Broth and bouillon: Beef or chicken stock base ($20-30 for a large container) adds flavor and minerals to otherwise bland grain dishes. A little bouillon goes a long way in making survival rations more palatable.

Honey and maple syrup: Pure honey (100% with no additives) never spoils if kept in cool, dry conditions. A 3-kilogram container costs $30-40 but provides calories, can be used medicinally as an antiseptic, and serves as valuable barter material. Maple syrup offers similar benefits and lasts indefinitely in pure form.

Oats: Quick oats or large-flake oats ($5-8 per bag) paired with honey or maple syrup create satisfying breakfast options. This variety prevents “food fatigue” when eating the same meals repeatedly.

Salt and sugar: These two items were the most sought-after commodities in the pre-industrial world for good reason. They preserve food, add calories, and improve palatability. Stockpile liberally—they’re inexpensive now but essential always.

Seasonings: Garlic, pepper, dried onions, and soy sauce ($8-15 total) transform bland survival meals into something approaching palatability. Consider vacuum-sealing small quantities in 1-quart mylar bags for long-term storage.

The Storage Method: Mylar Bags and Buckets

Five gallon food-grade buckets with sealed mylar bags for budget long-term food storage

The standard approach used by preppers nationwide combines food-grade buckets with sealed mylar bags, creating a multi-layered defense against spoilage.

Why This Method Works

Mylar is a non-porous, metallized film that oxygen and moisture cannot penetrate. Unlike plastic buckets, which contain microscopic pores and degrade over time, mylar maintains structural integrity for decades. The combination of mylar bags inside buckets provides pest protection (bucket) and oxygen exclusion (mylar).

Oxygen absorbers (also called desiccant packs) chemically remove oxygen from sealed bags, inhibiting mold growth and extending shelf life to 25-30 years. Once sealed, your food exists in an oxygen-free environment—the ideal condition for long-term preservation.

Step-by-Step Packing Process

1. Prepare your workspace: Lay out five 5-gallon buckets and mylar bags. Have your oxygen absorbers, sealing tool (iron or heat sealer), and food items ready.

2. Fill the mylar bag: Carefully pour rice, beans, or other bulk foods into the mylar bag. Fill to approximately 2-3 inches from the top—you need space for the oxygen absorber and final sealing.

3. Partial seal: Using a household iron set to medium heat (or a mylar bag sealer), seal the bag approximately 80% of the way across, leaving one end open for the oxygen absorber.

4. Insert oxygen absorber: Place the desiccant pack inside the partially sealed bag. These packs will absorb oxygen over 24-48 hours, creating a vacuum seal.

5. Final seal: Complete the sealing process by running the iron across the remaining bag opening. The goal is a complete, airtight seal.

6. Label: Once cooled, write the contents and date on the bucket lid using permanent marker. Include a note about intended serving size (“2 people/year” or “4 people/6 months”).

Labeled five gallon buckets showing contents and date for organized budget long-term food storage

7. Store in bucket: Place the sealed mylar bag inside the food-grade bucket and secure the lid. This protects against rodents and physical damage.

Storage and Rotation

Store buckets in a cool, dry location away from direct sunlight. Basements, closets, and pantries are ideal. Temperature stability matters more than absolute cold—aim for storage between 50-70°F if possible, though properly sealed buckets tolerate moderate temperature fluctuations.

Properly sealed and stored, your food will remain edible for 25-30 years. However, practice rotation: use and replace older stock every 5-7 years to maintain freshness and gain experience preparing these foods before an actual emergency.

Supplementing Your Base Storage

This foundational storage should be supplemented with freeze-dried meals, multivitamins, and foraged foods when possible. A small addition of freeze-dried Mountain House or Backpackers Pantry meals ($3-5 per serving) adds variety and psychological comfort without significantly impacting your budget. These supplements are about morale and taste preference—luxuries, not necessities.

Similarly, consider storing:

  • Multivitamins: Essential for filling micronutrient gaps
  • Baking soda and vinegar: Preserve flavor and aid digestion
  • Cooking oil: Provides essential fats (store in cool conditions)
  • Dried fruits and vegetables: Add variety and nutrients

The Mathematics of Food Security

Let’s break down what $150 actually purchases:

  • 100 pounds of rice = approximately 13,000 calories
  • 100 pounds of beans = approximately 14,000 calories
  • Supplementary items = additional 3,000-5,000 calories
  • Total: Roughly 30,000-32,000 calories

For a 2,000-calorie daily diet, this represents approximately 15-16 days of food per person. Five buckets stores roughly 75-80 days for a two-person household, or sufficient foundation calories for one person’s primary nutrition for 2.5 months. When supplemented with home garden production, foraged foods, or hunting, this storage becomes a true safety net rather than a complete solution.

Cost-Saving Tips

1. Buy in bulk during off-season: Rice prices fluctuate. Winter often sees sales as retailers clear inventory before spring produce arrives.

2. Use warehouse membership retailers: Costco or Sam’s Club offer the best wholesale prices on bulk staples.

3. Buy generic: Store brands are often identical to name brands at a fraction of the cost.

4. Purchase oxygen absorbers in bulk: Buying a 100-pack is more economical than smaller quantities. I also just collect them whenever I acquire them in other packaging.

5. Shop sales for supplementary items: Canned proteins, maple syrup, and honey often go on sale around holidays.

6. Repurpose containers: Clean buckets from restaurants or bakeries often work as well as new food-grade buckets.

Building Confidence Through Practice

Don’t wait for an emergency to discover whether you actually enjoy eating rice and beans daily. Practice cooking these meals now. Experiment with different seasonings, canned proteins, and preparation methods. This accomplishes two things: it helps you refine your storage strategy based on actual preferences, and it builds confidence in your preparedness.

A month before an emergency is not the time to learn that you can’t stomach plain beans or that your family rebels against repetitive meals. Cook and adjust now.

Recommended Links & Resources

Where to Buy Budget Long-Term Food Storage Supplies:

  • Costco (buckets, rice, beans, honey)
  • Sam’s Club (bulk staples)

Related Articles to Link Internally: Consider linking to other Seasoned Citizen Prepper articles on:

  • Emergency water storage and purification
  • Garden food preservation techniques
  • Long-term protein storage options
  • Off-grid food production

Conclusion: Start Your Budget Long-Term Food Storage Today

For approximately $150, you can build a foundational food storage system capable of sustaining a family for months. Budget long-term food storage isn’t gourmet prepping—it’s practical, affordable, life-saving insurance. The beauty of the rice-and-beans approach is its proven track record: these foods have sustained human civilizations for millennia.

Start today. Visit your local warehouse retailer, purchase buckets, mylar bags, and bulk staples, and begin implementing your budget long-term food storage plan. Your future self—and your family—will thank you. In survival scenarios, the only food that matters is the food you already have stored.

Filed Under: Uncategorized

DIY Faraday Cage EMP Protection: What Actually Works (And What Doesn’t)

May 8, 2026 by SCPadmin

If an EMP attack ever hits the United States, the electronics you stored in the wrong container will be just as dead as the ones you never protected at all.

That’s not fear-mongering. It’s physics. And once you understand a few basic principles, building real EMP protection for your critical electronics becomes a surprisingly affordable project — we’re talking $4 per container.

This guide covers the E1 pulse specifically — the most dangerous component of a nuclear EMP event, and the one that destroys electronics whether they’re plugged in or not.


What Is an EMP Attack — And Why Does E1 Matter Most?

A high-altitude nuclear detonation produces three distinct pulses: E1, E2, and E3.

E1 is the one that destroys electronics. It arrives first, induces up to 50,000 volts per meter on conductive material at ground level, and has a rise time so fast — around 5 nanoseconds — that no standard surge protector can respond. It kills microchips and semiconductors whether they’re plugged in or sitting in a drawer. A 4-inch cell phone sitting completely unplugged on a shelf could receive an induced pulse of over 5,000 volts from an unshielded E1 event.

E2 is similar to a nearby lightning strike. Any faraday cage that handles E1 handles E2 automatically.

E3 and solar CMEs are slow geomagnetic events that only threaten equipment physically connected to the power grid. Unplugged devices need no shielding from either.

Plan for E1 and everything else is covered.


The One Number Every Prepper Needs to Know: 80 dB

Shielding effectiveness is measured in decibels (dB). The U.S. military standard for protecting microchip electronics from an EMP attack is 80 dB minimum, per MIL-STD-188-125. At 80 dB, a 50,000 V/m E1 pulse is reduced to about 5 V/m inside the container — safe for microchips, which typically fail above 10 volts.

Everything in this guide is measured against that standard.


What Actually Creates EMP Shielding (Most Articles Get This Wrong)

The metal shell creates the shielding. Insulation does not.

At E1 frequencies, the steel wall of a standard paint can is already hundreds of times thicker than needed to absorb the incoming signal completely. What lets energy in is gaps — every hole, seam, rivet, and lid gap acts as a slot antenna admitting E1 energy. The lid seal is where almost every DIY faraday cage fails.

Insulation’s only job is to prevent arcing. During an E1 event, the container wall charges to up to 50,000 V/m. A 3,000-volt difference can arc across a 0.2-inch air gap and destroy whatever is inside. Cardboard — recommended by nearly every online article — is barely better than air at these voltages, and separate pieces leave exposed corners where arcing can occur.

The correct insulation is an antistatic HDPE liner bag rated at 10^11 ohms per square (MIL-B-81705-C), available for $2–14 from industrial suppliers like CDF Corp. A properly spec’d antistatic bag — think MIL-grade TeckProtect — can sit directly against the metal wall. The bag itself is the complete barrier.


DIY Faraday Cages That Meet the 80 dB Standard

These containers have been independently measured at or above the 80 dB military minimum at 1.92 GHz — the upper end of the E1 frequency range.

1-Gallon Metal Paint Can — 87 to 93 dB

This is the best DIY faraday cage for EMP protection you can buy off the shelf, and it earns that title for one reason: the friction lid. The rolled steel flange creates continuous metal-to-metal contact uniformly around the entire perimeter — no gaps, no hinges, no tape required. Opens with a screwdriver, closes with a rubber mallet.

Best for: cell phones, hard drives, ham radios, USB drives, battery chargers, small medical devices

Cost: $2–5 at any paint supply store + $2–3 for an antistatic liner bag

5-Gallon Steel Pail with Lever-Lock Ring — 80 to 86 dB

The lever-lock ring clamps the lid uniformly all the way around — the same principle as the paint can, scaled up. The rubber gasket must be removed, wrapped in aluminum foil tape to make it conductive, and reinstalled. Without that step, the rubber breaks the electromagnetic seal around the entire lid perimeter.

Best for: laptops, tablets, portable radios, battery packs, solar charge controllers

Cost: $5–8 for the pail, $3 for antistatic liner, ~$4 for disk cover and lever ring (Freund Container parts 4462 and 4446)

55-Gallon Steel Drum with Lever-Lock Lid — 76 to 81 dB

Barely meets the microchip standard at its high end, and more reliably suited to motor-driven equipment where 40–60 dB is sufficient. Same gasket treatment required as the pail. Two bungee cords over the lid help maintain compression.

Best for: power tools, portable generators, larger electronics, and as an outer shell for nesting paint cans

Cost: ~$20 for a clean used drum on Craigslist + $12–14 for liner


The Best EMP Protection Trick: Nesting Containers

Nesting multiplies protection — the dB values of each container add together.

  • A TeckProtect bag (44 dB) inside a paint can (87 dB) = 131 dB combined
  • A paint can inside a 55-gallon drum = 163 to 174 dB combined
  • Two TeckProtect bags nested together = ~80 to 84 dB — enough to meet the microchip standard with no metal container at all

For communications gear, medical electronics, and backup power controllers, always nest. The cost is a few dollars and five minutes.


EMP Faraday Cage Myths — Products That Won’t Save You

RFID phone pouches are designed to block credit card skimmers, not EMP. They offer 15–35 dB at low frequencies and essentially zero protection where E1 peaks. Your phone would still be destroyed.

Single Mylar faraday bags (including single TeckProtect bags) measure 30–44 dB — well short of the 80 dB minimum. You need two nested, or one inside a steel container.

Metal garbage cans are persistently recommended online and persistently wrong. An untaped garbage can measures less than 5 dB of shielding at 1 GHz. Even fully taped with aluminum foil tape and bungee cords, the best measured result was 72–78 dB — still below the microchip standard.

The popular internet “test” — put an AM radio in a garbage can, close the lid, radio goes silent — is not a valid EMP test. AM operates at 10 kHz. E1 peaks at 1 GHz. A metal roof with no walls can block AM radio. That test tells you nothing about EMP protection.

Microwave ovens measure about 40 dB — useful only as an outer nesting layer, not standalone EMP protection.


What to Store in Your EMP Faraday Cage

Not everything needs protection. Focus on items essential to survival that cannot be replaced post-event.

Protect these first (need 80+ dB):

  • Two-way and ham radios
  • Backup phones and tablets with offline maps and medical references
  • Portable solar charge controllers
  • External hard drives with critical data
  • Medical electronics: glucose meters, blood pressure monitors, hearing aids
  • Laptop computers

These need less protection (40–60 dB sufficient):

  • Older mechanical-type portable generators
  • Power tools with brushed motors

Skip these:

  • Anything grid-connected at the time of the event — likely lost regardless
  • Purely mechanical tools with no electronics

Long-Term EMP Storage: Rules That Matter

Don’t ground your faraday cage. Grounding can act as an antenna for E1 energy. Store cages on wood, carpet, or rubber wheels.

Wrap all cords tightly. A loose 7-foot cord inside a container acts as an antenna and multiplies induced voltage dramatically, even inside a shielded cage.

Inspect seals annually. Rust is an insulator — it breaks the metal-to-metal contact that creates shielding. Check lid grooves and flanges once a year, sand any rust, and apply petroleum jelly to sealing surfaces to prevent moisture and maintain conductivity.

Keep a master inventory. A simple list by container number and category — Communications, Medical, Power, Tools — saves critical time when it matters most.


Bottom Line: The Best Faraday Cage for EMP Is a $4 Paint Can

A 1-gallon paint can from the hardware store meets U.S. military specifications for protecting microchip electronics from a nuclear EMP attack. Add a $2 antistatic liner and you’re done. For larger gear, a steel pail with a lever-lock ring gets you to the same standard. Nest the two together and you’re at over 163 dB of combined protection — more than most commercially sold faraday bags on the market.

Real EMP protection doesn’t require expensive gear. It requires understanding what actually creates a shield — and avoiding the junk that doesn’t.


Sources: J.T. Smith, “Building EMP Faraday Cages That Work” (2014); CISA EMP Protection and Resilience Guidelines (2019); MIL-STD-188-125; IEC 61000-2-9.

Filed Under: Uncategorized

Gun Safety Guide That Every Prepper Should Know

April 3, 2024 by Seasoned Citizen Prepper

Following the firearms safety rules is a universal best practice for all gun owners. However, there are additional safety concerns for preppers. We’re planning on using guns in a very different environment that we use guns in right now.

One of the misconceptions about SHTF situations is that they’ll be similar to war. Surviving without infrastructure support, law enforcement, and other daily essentials is much different than wartime operations.

Preppers often crib their gun safety procedures and protocols from the military. But, in reality, not all the military safety standards work in a survival context.

So, gun safety for preppers is more of a holistic approach. Handling your weapon safely is important. But, being safe with your guns as a prepper requires more environmental consideration and planning.

We’re not going to cover the traditional safety rule stuff right now. Here’s what you should think about in regard to keeping yourself and your family safe with your guns in a survival situation.

Storage and Staging

In a survival situation, the environment where you store and stage your guns will be much less stable and controlled than it is now. You need to protect your guns to keep them serviceable for when you need them.

Some quick definitions before we move on:

  • When you put your guns away for use at some later time, without concern for quick access, that’s storage.
  • When you put your gun in a place where you can access it quickly, and you plan on retrieving that gun if you need to defend yourself, that’s staging.

Now, obviously, you want to protect your guns from unauthorized access. Keeping your guns away from children is a priority. But, you also want to take special precautions to protect your guns from burglars or raiders, and possibly even government intrusions.

However, you also want to protect your guns from the elements. If you’re in a survival situation, something really bad has probably happened. So, your storage location may need to keep your guns safe and functional until you can retrieve them.

That means your storage location needs to be pretty sturdy. It might need to withstand some pretty serious trauma.

Clearly, a solid gun safe is almost a slam dunk in this regard. However, it’s not the only option. If you’ve got the resources for an underground gun vault, awesome.

But, no matter how you store your guns, a big part of prepper gun safety is protecting your guns from whatever might happen.

In regards to staging: it’s best if you keep your weapon on you as much as possible, and we’ll talk about carriage in a moment. However, even if you have a gun or two that you keep on your body, staging some guns is still a good idea.

This gives your family options for getting a firearm if you’re not around. Or, you can use a staged gun if your carry weapon is unavailable for some reason.

Wherever your bug-in location is, your staged guns should be inaccessible to anyone who you don’t want to get them. If you might be stuck in a more populated area, it’s especially important to protect your staged guns from snoopers or looters.

There are quick access gun safes and options for securing staged guns. However, hiding the thing that secures your staged gun becomes much more important when you’re living in an unsecured environment. Building something like a tactical wall is also a good idea.

In short, the need for keeping your guns handy and the need for keeping them away from bad people goes way up in a survival scenario. So, you need to take this into account when selecting your storage and staging locations.

Carrying Firearms

As we mentioned earlier, carrying a gun is your best bet for ensuring that you’ve got one handy if you need it.

Carrying a rifle is a totally viable option in a survival scenario. It’s not like you’re going to alarm anybody at Starbucks. But, you don’t want to just carry your rifle around all willy nilly.

First, one of the things you should consider doing right now: pursuing some weapon retention training. One of the biggest concerns with carrying a weapon in the open is that people know you have it and can try to take it from you.

So, knowing how to retain a weapon in a hand-to-hand fight is some of the most valuable knowledge you can have.

Also, carry your rifle on a two-point sling. One-point and three-point slings are excellent for fast, tactical operations. But, a two-point sling is perfectly serviceable for shooting and running your gun. And, it provides a lot of utility for keeping your rifle on your body while you’re doing stuff.

With a two-point sling, you won’t need to unsling your rifle so often as you go about your daily tasks. That minimizes the opportunities for being caught without your rifle or being permanently separated from it.

Your rifle can be an insanely powerful defensive tool. But, carrying a sidearm is also a good idea. Even if you’re using a two point sling and keeping your rifle slung as much as possible, sometimes you just need to unsling your rifle.

Now, keeping your sidearm concealed is best, even in a survival scenario. A concealed gun provides a tactical advantage, because it gives you control over when you deploy that firearm. And, it keeps people from going after your gun right out of the gate.

Yes, concealing your firearm makes it more difficult to transition from your rifle to your pistol, if you need. But, you’re not going to be in a ton of tactical situations where switching weapons quickly is the priority.

Most of the time, you’re going to be gathering food, cleaning water, and doing daily survival things. An ambush or intruder scenario is much more likely than a pitched gunfight.

So, the most secure setup for weapons carriage is a slung rifle with a concealed sidearm. That way you have a primary defensive tool readily accessible, and you have an element of surprise for regaining control if you’re caught flat-footed.

Securing the Compound

Obviously, the fundamental rules of safe firearm handling apply to all firearms use.

But, prepper firearm security requires a bit more consideration. In a survival scenario, you’re most concerned with:

  1. Keeping your guns safe from whatever caused the SHTF situation.
  2. Keeping your firearms away from other people who may become more aggressive without ordinary societal restraints.
  3. Ensuring that you’re still able to protect yourself with your guns whenever the need arises.

So, check your storage locations and consider how you plan to carry your weapons in the event that you’re forced to strike out on your own. And, make sure that you’ll actually have your guns when the time comes.

Filed Under: Firearms

Like Hunt And Fish TV Shows? This Gig Might Be For You…

April 3, 2024 by Seasoned Citizen Prepper

,000 For Binge-Watching MeatEater

If you’ve ever wanted to be a “professional” TV watcher, your ship might’ve just come in.

Especially if you like hunting, fishing, and all things outdoors.

The outdoor website GearLobo.com recently shared that they are recruiting somebody to binge-watch all 8 seasons of the popular hunting show “MeatEater”, and post about it on social media.

The reward?

$1,000 in cash and a slew of other giveaways–a year’s subscription to MyOutdoorTV, shirts, knives, the MeatEater cookbook and more.

Plus…. you can add “professional TV watcher” to your resume! ;-)

Check out the full details here: https://gearlobo.com/hunting/shows/

Money or no money, if you haven’t seen MeatEater yet, you should definitely check it out. From a prepper point of view, MeatEater does a great job of showing the loop between hunting game, and then how to actually prepare, eat, and appreciate the food that comes from it.

Filed Under: Survival Food

Food Storage Shopping at Your Regular Grocery Store

March 30, 2024 by Seasoned Citizen Prepper

How To Do Food Storage Shopping At Your Regular Grocery Store

(Skip to the complete list below)

There are many common sense reasons to store extra food. Sudden unemployment can certainly throw a financial hardship onto any family. Other unplanned financial issues can come up, such as automobile repairs, medical bills, inflation, increasing fuel prices and home repair.

During a financial crisis, it would be extremely valuable if you could find a way to reduce the costs required to feed your family..

Getting started in food storage does not have to be an overwhelming task. By taking just a few simple steps you can increase your food stores dramatically as well as increase your level of preparedness.

Food Storage Philosophy

For those just beginning to look to have extra food on hand, consider the following saying “Store what you eat and eat what you store.” This basic philosophy involves putting back quantities of common foods that already sit in your pantry and are found at your local grocery store.

The idea is to stock up and keep on hand much greater quantities of many of the very same foods that you already consume on a daily and weekly basis. These foods within the new storage system are rotated on a first-in, first-out basis, to make sure that nothing goes to waste.

What Is The Shelf Life of Food Storage?

Foods have varying degrees of storability. Shelf life varies tremendously between different categories of food and sometimes even between brands. Throughout the following “virtual tour”, of a typical grocery store, shelf life ranges are provided.

Please keep in mind that the typical shelf life range, provided is based on observations seen on the packaging. The reality is that most products true expiration date is substantially greater than that which is found on the package.

Now For The Food Storage Grocery Store Tour

OK, we have entered the grocery store, grabbed our shopping cart along with a sale paper and headed to the right side of the store. We are here to supplement our regular grocery shopping with foods that will be good additions to a food storage program.

Let’s go aisle by aisle, and cover some of the most basic, “staple” food storage items that we find:

1. Soup & Stew

Overview: Turning down into aisle #1 brings us to shelves of soup and stews. Canned soup has been a common food found in most homes for decades. Flavorful and nutritious, canned soup is inexpensive and has an excellent shelf life.

There are over 100 varieties of soups to choose from in some grocery stores. Maintaining variety of diet in a survival situation will assist in boosting morale and maintaining mental awareness. Soups are an excellent addition that adds variety to a food storage system.

Many soups can be purchased for as low as .40 cents a can when on sale. Using coupons can also reduce prices.

Shelf Life: Canned soups and stews generally have expiration dates that are two+ years from the date of purchase. In reality the true shelf life has been shown to be many years beyond that which is listed on the can. It is important that you do not dent the can as the protective liner inside can become damaged.

Shopping Cart Notes: This is a great place to start your food storage shopping. Select 3-4 varieties and buy 10 cans each. Beef stew is an excellent addition, mainly due to the higher protein content.

2. Canned Vegetables

Overview: Aisle #2 brings us to an important part of any food storage program – vegetables.

Vegetables provide valuable nutrients needed to maintain health and are an integral part of any diet.

Here we find a huge variety of vegetables to choose from. Although all these vegetables can be eaten by themselves, they can also be mixed and added to other foods to provide more variety to the diet.

Shelf Life: Canned vegetables generally have expiration dates that are 2+ years from date of purchase. In reality the true shelf life has been shown to be many years beyond that which is listed on the can. It is important that you do not dent the can as the protective liner inside can become damaged.

Shopping Cart Notes: Canned vegetables should be a major part of your food storage shopping. Select 2-3 varieties, and buy 10 cans each. Recommended examples are canned potatoes, corn, and green beans.

3. Pasta and Pasta Sauce

Overview: Some of the most inexpensive and easiest to prepare meals are made from the pasta found down on aisle #3.

Pasta can be used to make more than just spaghetti. Available in all different shapes and sizes, pasta can be combined with many other foods to create very flavorful and calorie dense meals. Pasta is high in carbohydrates which provide energy for the human body.

Pasta sauce comes in glass and plastic jars as well as cans.

Shelf Life: Dry pasta generally comes in boxes and has a listed expiration date of approximately 1 year from date of purchase. In reality the true shelf life has been shown to be many years beyond that which is listed on the can. It is important that you do not dent the can as the protective liner inside can become damaged. If the pasta is stored in a cool dry location away from insects, it can be stored for several years.

Pasta sauce in all containers often has expiration dates 2-3 years from date of purchase. Like all canned foods, true shelf life is longer.

Shopping Cart Notes: Pasta is very inexpensive and easy to prepare. Grab 10-20 boxes of what you like and half the quantity of sauce.

4. Canned Fruit

Overview: Aisle #4 brings another food storage basic component – fruit.

Canned fruit is nutritious and full of valuable vitamins. It is also very sweet. During a survival situation your diet will have a direct impact on your physical and mental wellbeing. Having some “sweetness” will be very welcome.

Shelf Life: Canned fruit generally has expiration dates that are 2+ years from date of purchase. High acid varieties tend to have a lower shelf life. In reality the true shelf life has been shown to be many years beyond that which is listed on the can. It is important that you do not dent the can as the protective liner inside can become damaged.

Shopping Cart Notes: Canned fruit tastes great and can be easily rotated using FIFO (first in, first out) as a part of your family’s regular diet. Look to purchase items on sale, select 2-3 varieties, and buy 10 cans each. Recommended examples are: canned peaches, pears and pineapple.

On The Grocery Store End Cap We Find…. boxes of saltine crackers on sale. These crackers go great with the soup found in Aisle #1. They are inexpensive and have a shelf life of at least 1 year. Grab three boxes. They are great with peanut butter, as well.

4. 1 Sugar

Overview: Sugar is a staple in any food storage program and widely used in many recipes.

Shelf Life: Sugar can be stored indefinitely if kept in a cool, dry, place away from insects and rodents. It is recommended that sugar be placed in a secondary airtight container for added protection.

Shopping Cart Notes: Sugar prices have increased over the past few years, so you should try to take advantage of sales when you see them. I recommend having at least six bags in your storage.

5. Baking Goods – Flour, Oils

Overview: Continuing down Aisle #5, you will find a variety of baking and cooking supplies, including a variety of flours and oils.

Flour is needed for making bread. Cooking oils are a common ingredient in recipes and also used for used for coating pans. You should review your typical recipes to determine which kind should be stored in extra supply.

Shelf Life: Flour comes in many different types. Consult the packaging for realistic expiration dates. Flour such as All Purpose and Bread varieties that are stored in air tight containers along with special oxygen absorbers can be stored for five years of more.

Shopping Cart Notes: Throw an extra 5 bags of All-Purpose and/or Bread Flour in the cart along with 3 bottles of vegetable or canola oil.

6. Powered Milk

Overview: Powdered milk can be found down aisle #6.

This is another excellent addition to any food storage program. It can be consumed itself after proper mixing and also can be used in the completion of many recipes. Due to its versatility powered milk can be looked at as a “boost” to any food storage program.

Shelf Life: Powered milk generally does not store well past one or two years. The packaging is often just a cardboard box with some type of liner. If repackaged into an airtight container, the shelf life can be lengthened.

Shopping Cart Notes: Throw a couple boxes in the shopping cart for now.

6.1 Pancake Mix & Syrup

Overview: Pancake mix is located a little further down Aisle #6. There are several varieties of pancake mix which require only water to make. This is super simple and easy.

Shelf Life: Similar to powered milk, the shelf life is one to two years. If repackaged into an airtight container, the shelf life can be lengthened.

Shopping Cart Notes: Throw several bags or boxes in the shopping cart. Practice FIFO.

Grab a couple bottles of pancake syrup while you’re at it.

7. Ramen Noodles

Overview: Aisle #7 brings a food item that many people who put themselves through college lived on – ramen noodles.

They are super inexpensive and store well. Easy to prepare, they require only water. They are also very high in sodium so they should be part of a food storage program, but not consumed too often.

Shelf Life: Stored in a cool, dry, location the shelf life can be in excess of two years.

Shopping Cart Notes: Throw a few cases of beef and chicken varieties in the cart.

8. Peanut Butter

Overview: Aisle #8 contains one of the best survival foods – peanut butter. Peanut butter is dense in calories and high in protein. It can be eaten straight out of the container, as well as spread on bread and crackers. Peanut butter can be easily included in a food storage program, as at it is often part of most people’s regular diets already.

Shelf Life: Expiration dates vary greatly from brand to brand so check around. Peanut butter generally carries a shelf life in excess of 2 years. Remember first in, first out.

Shopping Cart Notes: Find a variety with a longer shelf life that is on sale and add six jars to your cart.

9. Instant Potatoes

Overview: Aisle #9 has an invaluable food storage item – instant potatoes.  These are simple to prepare (you will need that powered milk from Aisle #6) .

Shelf Life: Expiration dates on packages generally run about a year from date of purchase. If stored in an airtight container, it is possible to keep them much, much longer.

Shopping Cart Notes: Grab a couple boxes for home and an extra six boxes to put back as part of your food stores. Use and replace as needed using FIFO.

9.1 Canned Ham, Chicken & Tuna

Overview: Aisle #9 offers canned ham, chicken, and tuna. Meat is one of the more difficult items to find in a storable form. Canned ham can be delicious, and is an excellent source of protein. Canned chicken is great to combine with other food items to make complete meals. Tuna is another source of protein. Also found in this aisle is SPAM. SPAM is considered a “meat”, and is high in protein as well as salt.

Shelf Life: Expiration dates on packages generally run two or more years from date of purchase. True shelf life is known to be much longer.

Shopping Cart Notes: Throw five to six canned hams in the cart along with the same of chicken ad tuna. Also, go ahead and pick up a few cans of SPAM. Use and replace as needed using FIFO.

10. Water

Overview: You cannot live for more than three days without water. Aisle 11 provides a basic solution to your water needs.

Shelf Life: Bottled water will last for years although the taste may change due to the plastic container. It is best to store it where light cannot reach, as ultraviolet light can break down the polymer container over time.

Shopping Cart Notes: Grab a second shopping cart and add 20 gallons of spring water  along with 6 cases of 24 bottles of purified drinking water. It’s a start and that shopping cart is heavy!

11. Canned Beans

Overview: Canned beans come in a variety of flavors and companies. Beans contain high level of nutrients, like fiber and protein. Dump some in a pot, heat and serve. Prices have risen over the past few years, however canned beans are still a good value.

Shelf Life: Expiration dates on packages generally run two or more years from date of purchase. As with other canned products, the true shelf life is much longer.

Shopping Cart Notes: Look for what is on sale and stock up now. Buy 10-20 cans depending on what you can afford.

12. Rice and Dry Beans

Overview: Rice and dry beans can be found down the last aisle. Typically found and purchased in bags, rice and beans are VERY inexpensive. When combined with each other and other food, it is very easy to put together nutritious and complete meals.

Shelf Life: If stored in a dry, cool place, the shelf life is just about forever. Many people will store large quantities of these components in special Mylar bags with oxygen absorbers.

Shopping Cart Notes: Throw 20 pounds of rice in the cart along, with 25 pounds of various beans. Read up on how to prepare.

That completes our tour.  

Summary Of The Best Food Storage Staples At A Grocery Store

The carts are checked out, order paid for, and the food transported home to be organized. What has been put together is a good beginning food storage program.

Let’s review what has been “put back” so far (some of this stuff is just as cheap, and way more convenient to grab on Amazon–links provided here):

  • canned soup and stew  (30-40 cans)
  • canned vegetables (20-30 cans)
  • pasta and sauce (10-20 boxes / 5-10 jars of sauce)
  • canned fruit (20-30 cans)
  • boxes of saltine crackers (3)
  • sugar (6 bags)
  • All-Purpose and/or Bread Flour (5)
  • Cooking oil (3)
  • powered milk (2 boxes)
  • pancake mix (3 bags/boxes)
  • Ramen noodles (6 cases)
  • peanut butter (6 jars)
  • instant potatoes (6 boxes)
  • canned ham (5-6 cans)
  • canned chicken (5-6 cans)
  • canned tuna (5-6 cans)
  • SPAM (3)
  • water, spring (20+ gallons)
  • water, cases of 24 bottles (6+)
  • canned beans (10-20)
  • bags of rice (20 pounds)
  • bags of beans (25 pounds)

This is a decent start, but a far cry from what is ideal. Again – the philosophy is to store what you eat and eat what you store. You should make lists for future shopping trips and purchase more items to add to your stores..

Here are examples of additional items to consider:

  • chili
  • oatmeal & grits
  • cocoa mix
  • peanuts
  • stuffing, boxes
  • coffee
  • tea and other flavored mixes or water
  • pasta, canned
  • pickles
  • scalloped potatoes
  • spices
  • candy and other treats for kids
  • pizza making kits
  • apple sauce
  • salt
  • macaroni and cheese
  • fruit juice
  • nutrition bars

Starting a food storage program is not a sign of being paranoid. It is just being a responsible person. Take care all and prepare now, while you still can. Here’s a few final thoughts to consider:

  • Develop a routine to make sure you are using a “first in, first out” usage system. This will reduce waste and costs involve in replacing expired food.
  • Keep in mind that whatever food is stored may have to be prepared without power. Do you have an alternate means of cooking (like this simple DIY solar oven) to last the duration of the situation?
  • “Comfort foods” will be great morale boosters, especially for kids should a survival situation occur. Having some candy, hot cocoa, or fruity drink on hand will help provide some sense of normalcy depending on what is going on.
  • A water purification system is an excellent addition to any food storage system, as stored water supplies will only last so long. The Berkey line of filtration systems carried by are excellent.
  • When shopping in grocery stores, pay attention to expiration dates. The closest expiration dated products are supposed to be at the front of the shelf. It is worth it to take a few moments and reach to the back and compare to the front to get the freshest product possible.

Filed Under: Food Storage

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