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Best Survival Gear and Supplies

DIY Masonry Heaters [pictures and diagrams]

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The heart of a homestead is the hearth. And when our off grid family was making building decisions, the choice to have a masonry heater was the first one they made.

Their masonry wood heater was a DIY project built from native limestone and includes a baking oven. It was built in the center of the home so that its warmth could radiate outward and upward to keep the whole home cozy and warm in the northern winters.

Only the doors, firebrick, piping and mortar were purchased to create this mammoth heater. The cast iron doors were purchased from a masonry stove dealer in Vermont, and the rest locally.

So just how efficient is it? 

Well, the owners of this masonry stove said they only need to burn a fire once a day to keep the whole house warm unless it is below zero, then two fires a day suffice. And they only used three cords of wood between the masonry heater AND the wood cook stove last year!

I was very impressed with that, given that I used an average of seven cords of wood every winter for my very efficient wood stoves.

The upper stove is a baking oven. The owners often bake bread and pizzas in the oven, just after the fire has died down, or use it was a “warming drawer”.

In the basement, directly below the masonry stove is this ash can—a large galvanized trash can. Note the strength of the cement block wall to hold the weight of the stone above it. If you have ever dealt with wood stoves you realize immediately how convenient this is to clean out the ashes! Plus the wood ash is excellent for making lye and enriching the garden (do not use wood ash where you plant potatoes as they will scab).

With the masonry heater being the first decision that was made in building this homestead, the rest of the home was designed around the concept. Heat rises and fills the upstairs sleeping areas with warmth. A round antique heat vent in the upstairs of the home allows the radiant heat to rise more efficiently than just through the stairwell.

A Brief History of Masonry Heaters

The earliest known use of masonry heating technology dates back all the way to the Neoglacial and Neolithic periods of human history. These ancient civilizations are said to have used the smoke of fires to provide radiant heat for their underground homes. 

In all of human history, the Kang bed-stove is one of the earliest known instances of modern masonry heater technology. From as early as 5000 B.C., these Chinese “bed-stoves” were multi-person dwelling units primarily made of huge blocks of masonry to retain heat in colder climates. Around the world, forms of masonry heat grew organically in low temperature areas like Eastern Europe and Northern Asia, adopting various forms and names in countries like Russia and Sweden.

Eventually, masonry heaters lost popularity to forms of electric and gas heat found in most homes today. With that said, masonry heaters have seen a renewed popularity in recent years for its ability to provide a sustained off-grid source of heat. 

Other Names for Masonry Heaters

Masonry heaters have been used in many different cultures and have therefore been called several different names. Here are some of the most common alternative names for masonry heaters:

  • Masonry Fireplace
  • Masonry Oven
  • Masonry Furnace
  • Masonry Stove
  • Russian Stove

Additionally, some masonry fireplaces are covered in tile. In these cases, a masonry oven can be referred to as a: 

  • Cocklestove
  • Kachelofen
  • Tilestove
  • Or Ceramic Stove

Why do People Like Masonry Heaters? 

People have been using masonry heaters, or early forms of the device, for thousands of years. This is because they are one of the best ways to heat a home for long periods of time, without being overly expensive to run. 

Masonry fireplaces can easily warm a dwelling for an entire day, with very little upkeep required. Primarily, masonry furnaces are fueled with firewood. In the right areas with a lot of tree coverage, this makes the system very sustainable and inexpensive for ongoing use. 

How do Masonry Heaters work?

Masonry heaters are devices that can be used to warm an interior space with radiant heating (similar to baseboard heaters, or hydronic heating in a floor). As they are named for the material, masonry heaters are made up of masonry, which is typically brick, soapstone, stone, tile, stucco, or a combination of several materials. 

To put it simply, masonry heaters work like a sponge. A wood fire is burned rapidly, usually one to two hours. Heat from the fire is captured within bricks, stone, or tile and “soaked in.” Once these materials have been warmed, they will continue to radiate heat for many hours. In an enclosed space like a living room, the radiant heat from a masonry furnace can be used to keep interior temperatures high, even in the dead of winter.

Masonry heaters are designed to be easy to both use and clean. Typically, a masonry furnace can be loaded with firewood and burned safely with the smoke escaping through a chimney. When in use, there are a few basic mechanical features that allow for people to safely operate the system, maximizing the amount of heat without comprising safety.

Upkeep is extremely important when considering the lifetime of a masonry heater. In addition to continuously unloading of the burnt ashes, the interior of a chimney should be accessible so that it can be properly cleaned regularly.

Best Downspout Diverter for Rain Barrels (plus a $7 DIY option!)

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Best downspout diverters for harvesting rainwater into rain barrels

Rainwater harvesting is one of the most practical water independence moves a homesteader or prepper can make — and the downspout diverter is the one piece that makes or breaks the whole system. Get it right and water flows straight from your roof into your barrels. Get it wrong and you’re mopping up overflow, or worse, directing water toward your foundation.

We’ve run rain barrels for years. The $7 DIY diverter below came out of two years of trying to solve this without cutting apart the gutters — it works on four barrels simultaneously. But we’ll walk through the three best off-the-shelf options first for anyone who’d rather buy than build, then get into the full DIY method step by step.

The 3 Best Downspout Diverters

The diverter redirects water from running out the bottom of your downspout into your barrel instead. When the barrel fills, a good diverter automatically routes overflow back down the spout. A bad one lets overflow go wherever it wants. Make sure to get one that’s easy to install and reliable — you don’t want it failing in the middle of a rainstorm.

If you don’t already have one, these are the 3 best to check out:

1. Gutterworks Inline Downspout Diverter

Gutterworks inline downspout diverter for rain barrels

The most versatile of the three. It connects directly to your existing downspout with no major modifications, and works whether your barrel sits directly below or offset to the side via a hose run. A simple lever flip switches it back to standard drainage when the barrel is full — no overflow, no mess. Available in 2×3 and 3×4 sizes and multiple colors to match your gutters. The unit is on the larger side, so measure your installation clearance before ordering.

Pros:

  • Comes in two sizes (2×3 & 3×4)
  • Multiple color options
  • Works with barrel directly below or offset via hose

Cons:

  • Larger unit — needs clearance room for installation

Best for: most homeowners with one or two barrels and a standard downspout setup.

2. Earthminded Flexfit Diverter

Earthminded Flexfit downspout diverter for rain barrels

If you’ve ever tapped a maple tree, the Flexfit install will feel familiar — a tap-in approach rather than a full splice. Built-in overflow protection and installs cleanly into new or existing downspouts. The catch: it only fits 3×4 rectangular downspouts, so check your size first. Best matched to smaller collection setups — a shed roof, a single barrel directly below the spout — where the smaller opening isn’t a limiting factor.

Pros:

  • Built-in overflow protection
  • Installs easily into new or existing downspouts

Cons:

  • Only fits 3×4 rectangular downspouts

Best for: smaller roofs, single-barrel setups, 3×4 downspouts.

3. Oatey Rainwater Diverter

Oatey rainwater downspout diverter kit

Takes a few more steps to install but leaves your existing downspout structure essentially unchanged. Four feet of hose is included, giving you flexibility in barrel placement. One honest downside: no automatic overflow protection, so you need to either monitor your barrel or make sure the barrel itself has an overflow outlet. For most people who are actively using their collected water, this isn’t a real-world problem. UV-resistant coating means you can paint it to match your trim without losing durability. Fits 2×3 rectangular downspouts only — know your size before ordering.

Pros:

  • UV coating survives painting — match it to your trim
  • Minimal changes to existing downspout

Cons:

  • No overflow protection — monitor your barrel or ensure it has its own overflow outlet
  • Only fits 2×3 rectangular downspouts

Best for: 2×3 downspouts, flexible barrel placement, painted-to-match installs.

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Downspout Extensions: Managing Overflow

Once your barrel fills, water has to go somewhere — and letting it pool at the foundation is not the answer. That’s how you get expensive structural damage over time. A downspout extension or splash block routes overflow away from the house toward a proper drainage area.

Extensions come above-ground and below-ground, permanent and roll-out, and virtually all of them are low-maintenance once installed. Some worth looking at: a flexible drain extension (can be directed around obstacles), rigid aluminum for a cleaner look, or a basic splash block as a no-fuss minimum. The right choice depends on how far from the foundation you need to move the water and how much you’re managing. Three good options to search for: Wholesale Plumbing Supply downspout extension, Flex Drain Downspout Extension, and the Lake Lite Splashblock.

Downspout Filters: Keep Debris Out

A downspout filter — also called a screen or strainer — sits where the gutter meets the downspout and keeps leaves, shingle grit, and debris out of your collection system. This matters for two reasons: clogged downspouts are a headache, and debris in your barrel degrades water quality over time.

The old knock on filters was that they didn’t work and were hard to maintain. That was largely true a decade ago. Current mesh designs do a real job and cut down dramatically on how often you need to clean gutters. If your roof sits under trees, a downspout filter is non-negotiable. If your roof is relatively clear, a basic mesh filter at the top of the downspout is sufficient insurance.

Choosing a Rain Barrel

The barrel is where the water actually lives. What you need: a spigot positioned high enough to get a watering can or bucket underneath (which is why elevating on cement blocks matters — see the DIY section below), a screened inlet to block mosquitoes and debris, UV-resistant material so the barrel doesn’t degrade in sunlight, and a built-in overflow outlet so excess water exits in a controlled direction.

The 55-gallon range is standard for most home setups — enough to make a real dent in outdoor watering, manageable enough to drain before winter. For water independence, linking multiple barrels in series is the upgrade: overflow from the first fills the second, and so on. Three worth looking at: the Upcycle 55-gallon, Mirainbarrel, and FCMP Outdoor barrel. For deeper water independence planning — storage, filtration, and what to do when the tap stops running — see our emergency water planning guides and the WaterBob review for indoor emergency storage.

Gutter Guards: Worth It If You Have Tree Cover

If large trees overhang your roof, a filter at the downspout alone won’t keep up — you need gutter guards spanning the full gutter run. Good guards mean less climbing, less cleaning, and cleaner collection water from the start. They’re an upfront investment that pays back in time and maintenance over years. If your roof is relatively clear, skip them. If you’re pulling handfuls of leaves out of gutters every fall, they’re worth the cost.

DIY: The $7 Removable Downspout Diverter

Sometimes buying a standard product doesn’t fill all the needs. This is one of those cases — none of the off-the-shelf diverters solved the problem of having four barrels, not wanting to cut apart four downspouts, and needing something that could be pulled off in 30 seconds before winter.

For less than $7 you can create a DIY downspout diverter for your rain barrel that looks good, removes in under 30 seconds in winter, and self-stores.

Ground spout components used to build a DIY downspout diverter for rain barrels

My Experience Creating a Rain Barrel Diverter

I’ve had my rain barrels for two years trying to figure out how to divert rainwater from the gutters into the barrels without breaking the bank. I didn’t want to take apart the gutters. I have four rain barrels, so that was sounding like a lot of work. After two years of thinking it through, I came up with this solution and love it.

The first one I put in was horizontal. I tested it by throwing a hose on the roof, running water into the gutter — and out the water came. That’s when I noticed I needed caulk.

These are built from the “Ground Spout,” which I bought at Menards for about $5 or $6 each. Any hardware store should carry them. They mount vertically or horizontally on a standard 4-inch downspout.

How To Make a DIY Rain Barrel Diverter

What you need: 1 Ground Spout (~$5–6), a scrap piece of vinyl flooring, clear silicone caulk, small self-tapping metal screws, cotter pins, fishing line, tin snips or a jigsaw with a metal blade, and a drill.

5 gallon bucket positioned under rain barrel spout

First, install and level your rain barrel. I used four stacked cement blocks to get the spout high enough to put a five-gallon pail underneath. I made treated plywood bases and tipped them slightly forward for drainage. If wind is an issue, put a cement block on top of the empty barrel to keep it from tipping. Note where your overflow valve is pointing before setting it permanently.

Then find a leftover piece of vinyl flooring and cut it to size. You should be able to enlarge the photos for reference if needed.

Vinyl flooring piece cut for DIY rain barrel diverter flap

Figure out where and how you want the diverter placed on the downspout — horizontal or vertical both work. Pre-drill the corners of the rectangular Ground Spout piece. Trace the inside of the rectangular piece on the downspout with a Sharpie and mark your screw holes. Drill starter holes inside the marked area, then use tin snips or a jigsaw with a metal blade to cut out the hole. Don’t stress about perfection — it won’t show much, and in winter it’s mostly covered. Mash any sharp edges down with pliers.

Tracing and drilling the downspout for the DIY diverter installation

Pre-drill your screw holes with the right bit. Run a bead of clear silicone caulk all the way around the hole. Start your screws into the plastic piece before putting it against the downspout — trust me on this one, I dropped half a dozen screws learning this the hard way. Screw the piece into the downspout.

Fold the long side of the vinyl for insertion through the hole, then push it flat against the inside of the downspout. Trim with scissors as needed. Attach the ground spout hose and clip it in — any bend and it won’t stay put.

Completed horizontal DIY downspout diverter with water flowing into rain barrel

Pre-drill a hole through the top of the rectangular piece for a cotter pin, and another through the bottom of the round spout for a second pin. Drill a couple of holes for the fishing line where needed.

Fishing line is nearly invisible, extremely weather resistant, and lets you pull the pins, stow them safely for next year, pull the vinyl out and slide it into the spout, and set it to the side until spring — all in under 30 seconds. You could use a nail or screw instead, but the fishing line is what makes this truly self-storing.

Put the spout back in place and insert the pins. If you have a sharp turn in your setup you may need one screw — try to place it somewhere reachable without a ladder for winterizing.

Done for the year!

Ready to Give it a Shot?

Go to a hundred houses with rain collection and you’ll find a hundred different setups — and most of them work fine. The fundamentals are what matter: divert the water cleanly, filter out debris, store in a UV-resistant barrel with an overflow outlet, and route that overflow away from your foundation. Everything else is details.

A single 55-gallon barrel off one downspout after a decent rain is a week of garden watering. Four barrels in series changes the math significantly — which is exactly what this system was built to handle. For the broader water independence picture, the emergency water guides cover storage, filtration, and contingency planning. The preparedness downloads page has printable water planning checklists as well.

WaterBob Review – Bathtub Emergency Water Storage Container

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WaterBob bathtub bladder for emergency water storage — 100 gallons, BPA-free

The WaterBob is a bathtub bladder that stores 100 gallons of drinking water for about $35. It deploys in 20 minutes, uses FDA-approved food-grade plastic, and keeps water safe for up to 16 weeks. If a hurricane, ice storm, or rolling blackout is coming and you have a bathtub, it’s one of the most practical emergency purchases you can make.

We’ve had one in the prep closet for years. Here’s the honest version — what it does well, the one real limitation, how it compares to the alternatives, and answers to the questions we actually called the company to ask.

  • ~$35 — cheaper than a case of bottled water per gallon
  • Stores flat — takes up almost no space until deployed
  • Deploys in 15–30 minutes — as fast as filling a bathtub
Algae bloom in Lake Erie 2014 threatened water supply for Ohio residents
Unseasonably warm temperatures in 2014 contributed to an algae bloom in Lake Erie, threatening the water supply for Ohio residents near Toledo (via EcoWatch).

There have always been threats to clean water — tornadoes, hurricanes, earthquakes, contamination events. I had family near Toledo who used bottled water for nearly a month after a toxic algae bloom contaminated the municipal supply one unusually warm summer. It came with almost no warning.

One of the most critical things to understand about municipal water: a power outage almost always means no water too. Pumps can’t run without electricity. If you’re on city water and the grid goes down, your taps stop. Without a solid emergency water plan, you’re immediately dependent on whatever’s left at the grocery store — which goes fast.

WaterBob emergency drinking water storage bladder deployed in a bathtub
The WaterBob uses the space of your bathtub to store 100 gallons of clean water quickly and cheaply.
Download 906 survival guides including water preparedness guides

WaterBob Pros

  • Compact storage — ships in a small box, stores flat in a closet or drawer until needed
  • FDA-approved, BPA-free food-grade plastic — not a concern if you’re storing drinking water
  • 100 gallons for 16 weeks — that’s a family of four at the Ready.gov one-gallon-per-person-per-day baseline for 25 days, or one person for three months
  • Included siphon pump — no need to tip or move the tub to access the water
  • ~$35 — inexpensive enough to keep a spare

WaterBob Cons

  • Requires 15–30 minutes of notice. This is the real limitation, and it’s worth being clear about. The WaterBob is perfect for predictable disasters — hurricanes, approaching ice storms, rolling blackout warnings, wildfire evacuations with lead time. It’s not useful for sudden events like earthquakes or unexpected power cuts. You need enough warning to fill a bathtub.
  • Single use per manufacturer’s instructions. More on this below — we called the company.
  • Holds less than storage barrels. Two 55-gallon barrels beat it on total volume, but they cost $100–200 each and require permanent storage space most apartment dwellers don’t have.

How To Use Your WaterBob

Intentionally simple. The whole setup takes less than half an hour.

  1. Remove the bladder from the box and unfold it in the tub.
  2. Position it with the filling valve closest to the faucet end — not the drain end.
  3. Connect the fill tube to the faucet and start running water.
  4. Fill time is 15–30 minutes. Don’t walk away entirely — check it partway through.
  5. Add water purification drops immediately after filling if you have them — do it while you remember, and they’ll start treating the water right away.
  6. Access water using the included siphon pump. Place your container below the pump level — this gets harder to manage as the water level drops, worth knowing up front.

Real Stories: WaterBob in Actual Hurricanes

With over 1,200 ratings and a 4.7/5 on Amazon, the WaterBob has an unusually strong real-world track record — not just prepper speculation, but people who actually deployed it during Hurricanes Matthew, Irma, and others. Three reviews worth reading:

A two-time hurricane survivor who used it during both Matthew and Irma:

Amazon review: WaterBob used during Hurricanes Matthew and Irma

A Florida resident who lost power for a full week:

Amazon review: WaterBob used during Florida hurricane with week-long power outage

A Hurricane Matthew survivor who deployed it once the storm hit:

Amazon review: WaterBob used to survive Hurricane Matthew

About WaterBob

Tony Woodruff invented the WaterBob after watching people scramble for bottled water before and after natural disasters. The pattern was always the same: officials declare an emergency, stores empty within hours, and people without a plan are left dependent on FEMA, the Red Cross, or whoever shows up. He wanted a solution that cost less than $40, stored flat, and could be deployed in the time it takes to fill a tub.

WaterBob uses BPA-free, FDA-approved food-grade plastic throughout. The product has been mentioned in prepper books including Lights Out and covered by CNN and National Geographic. Over a thousand verified purchases later, the 4.7-star average holds — unusual for a product that gets used in actual emergencies where expectations are high.

Flint Michigan water crisis — contaminated water versus clean water bottles
A Michigan resident photographed lead-contaminated water from the Flint supply beside a clean Detroit bottle. Infrastructure failure can happen anywhere.

Who It’s Best For

The WaterBob is especially well-suited for apartment dwellers and urban preppers who don’t have space for barrels or the budget for a permanent water storage setup. A 55-gallon drum takes up real estate and costs $100–200. Two water bricks hold 7 gallons and require ongoing rotation. The WaterBob stores in a kitchen drawer, costs $35, and turns any standard bathtub into a 100-gallon emergency reservoir on demand.

One storage note: keep the unused bladder in a dry place. Once filled, keep it out of direct sunlight — prolonged UV exposure promotes algae growth inside the bladder. The CDC’s baseline recommendation is one gallon per person per day (Ready.gov, Water), which means 100 gallons covers a family of four for 25 days — well past the window for most disaster relief responses.

Why Water Storage Matters More Than Most Preppers Plan For

The Flint, Michigan water crisis is the most visible example, but infrastructure failures happen in every state. According to the CDC, contaminated water causes thousands of illnesses and deaths in the US annually from diseases including dysentery, typhoid, and hepatitis. Most people assume it won’t happen to them. Municipal systems are more vulnerable than the infrastructure looks — aging pipes, flood contamination, power-dependent pump stations.

The three-day minimum most emergency guides recommend is genuinely the minimum. A week is better. A month — which two 55-gallon barrels covers for a family of four — is real preparedness. The WaterBob is not a substitute for a permanent water plan, but it’s an excellent first layer and a reliable backup even if you have barrels, because barrels require lead time to position and fill. The WaterBob deploys in 20 minutes from a box on a closet shelf.

Water bricks stacked for modular water storage
Water bricks are a sturdy, modular storage option, but rotating out the water annually across many bricks becomes a real logistical chore (via “7 Trumpets Prepper”).

How WaterBob Compares to Other Water Storage Options

AquaPod Bathtub Bladder

AquaPod is WaterBob’s main direct competitor. It holds about 70 gallons (vs. 100) and keeps water safe for approximately 8 weeks (vs. 16). Both are bathtub bladders at similar price points. WaterBob wins on both capacity and shelf life — for $35 in either case, there’s no compelling reason to choose the smaller, shorter-lived option.

55-Gallon Water Storage Barrel

Barrels are the right answer if you have the space and the budget. At $100–200 per barrel, two of them keep a family of four hydrated for about a month — more total water, more permanent, more stable. The tradeoff is that they require a dedicated storage spot (a garage, a basement, a utility room) and are essentially impossible to move once filled. For anyone with that space, barrels should be part of the plan. For anyone without it, the WaterBob fills the gap that barrels can’t.

Water Bricks and Portable Containers

Water bricks — stackable containers holding 3.5 to 7 gallons each — are a modular approach that works well for building storage incrementally. A Reliance Aqua-tainer holds 7 gallons for around $15. The catch is rotation: water should be cycled annually, and doing that across 15 individual bricks is a genuine chore. They also don’t come close to 100 gallons in an affordable, deployable format. Good for supplementing a plan; not a substitute for either barrels or the WaterBob.

FAQs

Can my bathtub support the weight of a full WaterBob?

Yes. 100 gallons at 8.3 lbs per gallon is about 830 pounds — which sounds alarming until you remember that a bathtub full of water already weighs the same. Standard residential tubs are designed to hold that load. The WaterBob distributes the weight across the same surface area as a full tub of water. No structural concern for a standard bathtub.

How does the hand pump work?

The included siphon pump has an opaque plastic hose. Unscrew the access cap, insert the pump, and place your container below the pump level to draw water out. Replace the cap when done. One honest caveat: as the water level drops, your container needs to be lower than the pump — this gets progressively harder to manage in a standard tub. A low pitcher or a cut-down jug works better than a tall container for the later stages.

Can I really only use it once?

Per WaterBob’s instructions, yes: slit the bladder after use, drain, and dispose. We called the company to ask why. The answer was straightforward — because it’s nearly impossible to fully dry the inside after use, and residual moisture creates a mold and mildew risk if it’s stored for the next emergency. They recommend disposal to avoid liability when someone inevitably tries to reuse one and gets sick.

That said, some hurricane-prone preppers have reported reusing theirs — exclusively for non-potable purposes like flushing toilets and showering, not drinking. If you’re in that camp, that’s a reasonable call. Just don’t drink from a reused bladder you haven’t been able to fully dry and inspect.

How often should I rotate stored water?

Once a year is the standard recommendation. Properly stored water doesn’t technically “expire,” but bacterial growth and taste degradation happen over time. The WaterBob itself keeps water safe for 16 weeks — so if you fill it during an emergency and the emergency lasts longer than four months, you’re in different territory and should be treating the water before drinking. For regularly stored containers (barrels, bricks), annual rotation is good practice. Swirl the water before drinking older stored water to reintroduce oxygen, which improves taste.

Bottom Line

The WaterBob is one of the most sensible $35 preparedness purchases available. It turns an unused asset — your bathtub — into 100 gallons of emergency water storage that deploys in 20 minutes. For apartment dwellers and urban preppers without barrel storage space, it fills a gap that no other affordable option covers. For homesteaders and rural preppers with permanent water storage, it’s a fast-deploy backup that stores in almost no space.

The limitation is real and worth planning around: you need a warning window. Add the WaterBob to your preparedness kit now, so that when a hurricane watch comes or a boil-water advisory hits, you’re not scrambling to order it two days too late. Pair it with a broader water plan — stored water for medical use, a filtration method for resupply, and enough everyday storage to cover the gap between now and the next emergency.

Are Motorcycles Good Bug Out Vehicles?

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Motorcycle Bug Out Vehicles

Whether your preferred acronym is TEOTWAWKI (The End Of World As We Know It), SHTF (Shit Hits The Fan) or GOOD (Get Out Of Dodge), a common argument among survivalists revolves around the preferred mode of transportation.

Among those choices, a motorcycle may not be best for your particular situation, especially if your family extends beyond two people. A motorcycle would also be a poor option for protection when plowing through god-knows-what in a post-apocalyptic world and cannot carry much supplies when the situation arises.

But a two-wheeler also has many benefits in survival situations. Here are just a few:

1. Motorcycles Have Incredible Fuel Economy

When Superstorm Sandy slammed into the New York-New Jersey area in October of 2012, residents had to travel upwards of 60 miles and wait for hours in line just to get a few gallons of gasoline for their cars and generators. It even created a black market with gas being sold for more than $20 per gallon. It’s situations like these that justify a motorcycle as the perfect survivalist conveyance.

The 2013 Honda NC700x will easily get you over 60 miles on one gallon of gas, while the Kawasaki Ninja 250R and Suzuki TU250X push the 80 mpg threshold. The key is to buy and store several gallons of gasoline before disaster strikes. The American Petroleum Institute recommends storage in a cool, dry place separate from your main dwelling, like in a garage or shed. You’ll need to add a stabilizing agent to keep the gas from breaking down into a useless liquid. Sta-Bil is one of the most popular fuel preservers, and will keep gas fresh for up to 12 months.

The best practice is to refresh the gas every six months or so while civilization is still intact.

2. Highly Maneuverable on Narrow Pathways

Anybody who has driven through Los Angeles during rush hour knows the frustration of spending upwards of 30 minutes to travel a mere five miles. Those same people are envious (or worried) about all the motorcycle riders weaving their way through traffic and getting to their destinations in minimal time.

A motorcycle is perfect not only for maneuvering through evacuation traffic, but also for getting around fallen trees, wreckage, and other debris that may be blocking your path. You can also use it as an exploration vehicle to scout potential camp sites and refuges in the mountains and woods.

A two-wheeler, however, does not provide heat and shelter from the elements. A motorcycle jacket with both waterproof lining and quilting for warmth is essential for anyone who wants to explore and travel in comfort in a post-apocalyptic world. Or you can use a pickup truck with a loading ramp attached to it to drive a truck with an option of a motorcycle. You should also attach a rear cargo trunk or saddlebags to your bike for storage, as opposed to a cargo trailer that takes away maneuverability.

3. Motorcycles Double As Generator

The longer you’re able to survive in a post-apocalyptic world, the more you’ll have to utilize things for purposes not originally intended. A motorcycle can provide you power for lights and other necessities in a pinch. Simply remove the wheels from your bike, put it on some type of stand, and mount a generator head to it. The tension pulley for the belt will then need to be replaced with a sprocket.

These are the two primary steps, but keep in mind this is a project best suited for someone with a background in electricity. But if you understand the basic concepts of alternating and direct current, along with having a little mechanical inclination, a motorcycle engine can serve as a fuel-efficient generator. Pick up a good automotive electronics book and read a few pages everyday until you have a basic understanding of electricity.

A motorcycle can prolong and even save your life in a survival situation. Just make certain to practice riding before everything goes to hell so you can reap all the benefits.

Note on Safety: Riding motorcycles involve certain risk aspects which regular vehicles do not. With that said it is always recommended to wear a helmet designed for motorcycle use. You just never know.

Tachypsychia and The “Fight or Flight” Response in Survival Situations

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Tachypsychia

Tachypsychia is a must talk about subject when one discusses survival events, or personal involvement in a survival/combative situation.

For someone affected by tachypsychia, time either seems to:

  • lengthen, making everything seem slow, or
  • contract, so things seem like they’re moving in a speeding blur.

People frequently associate tachypsychia with what is called the “fight or flight” response, and martial arts instructors often refer to it as the “tachy psyche” effect.

What is Tachypsychia?

Let’s start with the scientific definition: Tachypsychia is a neurological condition that alters the perception of time, usually introduced by physical exertion, prolonged stress, drug use, or a traumatic event.

Biologically, tachypsychia is triggered after you experience high levels of norepinephrine and dopamine, which are induced by stress. These chemicals affect the visual system, especially the processing speed of your visual uptake.

Because of this, during tachypsychia you are likely to have a feeling that time is either moving faster or slower. Epinephrine hormones cause this effect, due to increased brain activity. The condition might also have slowing brain activities, which are caused by Catecholamine washout.

Seeing Things in “Slow Motion”

The question many people ask is, do you see things flowing in slow motion? The aspect of seeing things moving in slow motion is quite unusual. Specifically, it is a phenomenon called “akinetopsia.”

While in this state, someone can see objects without perceiving the movement for a certain period. Because of this, seconds can feel like minutes, and minutes feel like hours.

Other Effects That Correlate With Tachypsychia Situations

The most common experience during tachypsychia is the feeling that time has either increased or slowed down, but during these situations, it’s common to experience other physical changes as well, ranging from:

  • Increased heart and blood pressure rates, which may cause fainting. This is not an advantageous condition to experience when trying to survive!
  • Dilation of bronchial passages and the pupils, which causes a higher absorption of oxygen into the blood stream (good) and allows more light into the pupils, leaving us with visual exclusion or tunnel vision (bad).
  • Auditory exclusion or sensitivity
  • An increase in pain tolerance
  • Loss of color vision
  • Short term memory loss
  • Decreased fine motor skills
  • Decreased communication skills
  • Decreased coordination
  • A release of glucose into our system generating extra energy

It is also common for individuals to have serious misrepresentations of their surroundings during the events, through a combination or their altered perception of time, as well as transient partial color blindness and tunnel vision.

Other than the superhuman effects we can experience during tachypsychia, there may also be some unpleasant side effects. It’s possible to lose track of your urinary tract and bowels after adrenaline is triggered. After the stressful experience that triggered tachypsychia, the body might feel burnt out or mentally taxed.

The “Fight or Flight” Response

The flight or fight response is very closely related to tachypsychia, and an experience everyone has gone through either consciously or unconsciously when faced with acute stress.

Biologically, the fight or flight situation affects the primitive instincts of human survival. Hormones are released, including: epinephrine, neurotransmitters, and catecholamine. Cortisol, estrogen, and dopamine might also affect our reaction to stressful situations.

People have testified of abnormal things that others do in a life or death situation. A sudden release of adrenaline causes people to do supernatural things, like a woman lifting a car to save her baby from a crash. During these situations, the reasoning part of your brain is not a function. It stops, and the response action overrides (not unlike the effects of cocaine and methamphetamines).

We become very vigilant, and all senses are on high alert and much more robust. The muscle memory acts without getting direction from the brain. It’s associated with jumping, running, or fighting back, with the crucial objective being survival. Breathing increases to allow the muscles to have more oxygen, and helps to scream louder.

Another interesting phenomenon called cutis anserina can also occur. This is where there’s tension in your skin due to fear or excitement, causing your hairs to quite literally “stand on end.”

Tachypsychia Situations

In a fire emergency, a victim may complain that they have been waiting over 30 minutes since they called 9-1-1. After the emergency is studied, the situation reveals that less than 10 minutes had elapsed since the victim called out.

In this scenario, the victim is under a high level of stress as they are watching the emergency scene unfold before them. Their inability to stop the stressor will add even more stress. Time can become distorted and may seem like 30 minutes instead of 10.

Tachypsychia scenarios can also happen frequently with firefighters themselves, and emergency responder officers. When a commander gives their juniors tasks, for instance, stretching the hose line into the right position to fight the blazing house fire, it can seem like their team members are moving very slow, and things are not done quickly enough.

How To Manage and Combat Tachypsychia

Tachypsychia is a hormonal condition and is chemically induced. This means there is very little you can do to manage the condition. As you experience more stressful situations, you may gradually adjust to the hormone releases and accompanying sensory effects.

In the case of emergency responders, it is essential to keep the passage of time. The dispatcher might announce the passage of time over the radio, in intervals of at least ten or five minutes. They can call out 5 minutes, 10 minutes, and 15 minutes and so on.

When I introduce this subject in firearms classes, I always come back to training. And by that, I mean good, relational, appropriate, meaningful training. This is what I mean:

Basic Skills – shooting one round at a time, deliberately, slowly, accurately, sight picture, sight alignment, center mass, good solid skills.

Advanced Skills – improve on your basic skills! Become more accurate, faster, smoother, better.

Apart from that, these tips may help cope with the effects of tachypsychia:

1. Exercise and be in a better physical condition. An improved cardio or heart health is a crucial player in working on the adverse effects of stress.

2. Try to relax. Easier said than done, but essential in being able to understand and make decisions, while dealing with your body’s response to acute survival.

3. For emergency responders and those with licensed firearms, spend quality training with the equipment. Be confident even in times of crisis. Quality training is what comes through for you in bad times.

To Sum It Up

Tachypsychia can be controlled if you learn to avoid stress and control how you react to stress. But it’s important to keep in mind that our bodies are programmed to behave in certain ways to keep us alive. When you’re in a life or death situation, a fight or flight response can be the very thing that saves you.

Tachypsychia FAQ

What is Tachypsychia?

Also called the fight or flight response, Tachypsychia is a neurological condition that alters the perception of time, usually introduced by physical exertion, drug use, or a traumatic event. Tachypsychia is believed to accompany numerous physical changes. Upon being stimulated by fear or anger, the adrenal medulla may automatically produce the hormone epinephrine (aka adrenalin) directly into the blood stream.

What is it called when time seems to slow down?

The medical and scientific term for this is “tachypsychia.” People affected by tachypsychia experience the perception of lengthening of time, making actions appear to slow down. It can also cause time to seemingly contract, making objects appear to be moving in a speeding blur.

Why does adrenaline slow time?

Upon being stimulated by fear or anger, the adrenal medulla may automatically produce the hormone epinephrine (aka adrenalin) directly into the blood stream, increasing the brain activity, and causing the feeling that time has either increased or slowed down.

7 Best Off Grid Washing Machines

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Best off grid washing machines for cabins, RVs, homesteads and emergency preparedness

Off-grid laundry comes up for two reasons: people who want real independence from the electrical and water grids, and people who want to cut costs. Both are legitimate — and the options today are genuinely good, ranging from a $50 hand-crank you can use anywhere to compact electric units that run on 310 watts of solar power.

An off-grid washing machine is a necessity for anyone spending significant time away from conventional infrastructure, whether that’s a cabin, an RV, a homestead, or an emergency situation where the grid is down. Here are the seven worth your attention, followed by what to look for when choosing, a DIY section, and honest answers to the most common questions.

The Short Answer

1. Giantex Full-Automatic Washing Machine

  • 10 programs and 8 water levels
  • 9.9-pound capacity
  • Child lock function
  • Automatic load balancer
Giantex full automatic portable washing machine

The Giantex Full-Automatic is a solid first pick for cabin, camper, or RV use where you have power available. Full control over washing functions, water levels, and delays through an LCD display. The child lock is a genuine daily-use feature — it locks all buttons and alarms if the lid opens, useful with kids underfoot. The clear lid lets you watch the wash progress and catch an unbalanced load before it becomes a problem.

The cabinet is only 33.6″ x 19.8″ x 19.7″ and fits in nearly any nook of a cabin, boat, or camper. Hook the water inlet to a faucet, position the drain hose, and set your program. The auto-balance feature pauses the cycle and redistributes an unbalanced load rather than shaking itself to pieces.

Other Great Off-Grid Washing Machines

2. Panda PAN6320W

  • 10 programs and 5 water levels
  • Built-in drain pump for quick discharge
  • Quick-connect adapters for standard faucets
  • 10-pound capacity, 310W
Panda PAN6320W portable compact washing machine

The Panda PAN6320W is one of the more capable electric portables: a built-in drain pump (not just gravity drain) means you can position it at floor level and run the hose up to a sink rather than needing the drain outlet level with wherever the water goes. The 55-inch drain hose and included faucet adapters make it genuinely plug-and-run in most setups. Casters mean you can move it without lifting.

One honest update since this article was first published: the Panda PAN6320W has shifted into the $235–$340 price range, a significant increase from where it launched. It remains a well-built machine, but at that price point you should comparison-shop the current Giantex lineup, which offers comparable performance at lower cost. The Panda’s 310W draw is gentle on a solar battery bank — that remains a genuine advantage for off-grid electric use.

3. Giantex Portable Mini Compact Twin Tub Washing Machine

  • 11-pound wash capacity, 6.6-pound spin-dry capacity
  • Dual water inlets
  • Separate wash and spin timers
  • 260W wash / 140W spin, gravity drain
Giantex portable mini compact twin tub washing machine

The twin-tub design does something the single-tub automatics don’t: you can wash in one tub and spin-dry in the other simultaneously, which speeds up your laundry workflow considerably. The dual water inlet lets you add a small rinse to the spin side to get residual soap out of clothes while they spin dry. At just under 30 inches tall it fits under most counters and tables — a real storage win in a small cabin or camper.

4. KUPPET Compact Twin Tub Portable Mini Washing Machine

  • 18-pound wash capacity — the largest in this list
  • Pump drain, 56″ drain hose
  • 1300 RPM spin dry
  • 280W wash / 140W dry
KUPPET compact twin tub portable mini washing machine

If you’re doing laundry for more than two people, the KUPPET’s 18-pound capacity is the practical answer. Most portables top out at 10–11 pounds — the KUPPET nearly doubles that without a dramatically larger footprint (33.4″ x 27.9″ x 17.3″). Three simple dials for wash timer, wash selector, and spin timer. The pump drain with a 56-inch hose means you set it up once and drain to wherever you want without repositioning the machine. For a family off-grid or in an extended emergency, this is the workhorse pick.

5. SUPER DEAL Portable Compact Mini Twin Tub Washing Machine

  • 8-pound wash / 5-pound dry capacity
  • Dual water inlets, gravity drain
  • Spin-tub cover plate
  • 26 lbs — lightest electric option here
SUPER DEAL portable compact mini twin tub washing machine

At 26 pounds and 26″ x 13″ x 12″, this is the most portable of the electric options — light enough to pick up and move, small enough to store just about anywhere. The pulsator agitates without bunching and throwing the tub off balance. Fill the washer side, run the 15-minute timer, transfer to the spin side with a small rinse water addition, spin dry. The cover plate on the spin tub is a small but practical touch — it keeps nearly-dry clothes inside during the spin and cuts down on splashing. Quiet when balanced.

6. Wonder Wash Compact Washing Machine

  • 5-pound capacity
  • Fully non-electric — hand crank only
  • Uses ~90% less water than a standard washer
  • Lever latch lid, gravity drain, ~$45–65
Wonder Wash compact non-electric hand crank washing machine

The Wonder Wash is the one fully non-electric option most people have heard of, and for good reason — it actually works. A slow hand-crank tumbles the drum and agitates the clothes. The 5-pound capacity is small, but a 2–5 minute wash cycle means you can do several loads in an hour without the fatigue of hand-wringing everything. No electricity, no hookup, no moving parts that require maintenance. The lever-lock lid replaced the old screw-on design and is genuinely faster to use.

At ~$45–65, this is the lowest-cost entry point on the list, and it’s the right answer for solo use, for situations with no power at all, or as a dedicated “delicates and small loads” companion to a larger setup. Uses zero electricity and nearly 90% less water than a standard washer.

7. Lavario Portable Clothes Washer

  • Fully non-electric
  • Push-pull Powerflow agitation
  • 5 gallons per fill, gravity drain
  • Made in the USA, ~$80–100
Lavario portable non-electric clothes washer made in USA

The Lavario is the manual alternative that handles heavier loads — it’s the only fully non-electric washer here that can genuinely clean jeans and sweatshirts, not just delicates. A clothes basket sits in a water bucket; lifting and plunging activates Powerflow Technology, forcing water through the fabric on both the push and pull strokes. Gravity and buoyancy do most of the work, so arm fatigue is lower than it sounds.

A typical load runs less than 20 minutes start to finish. Lightweight, portable, no electricity needed. Made in the USA. At around $80–100 it’s more expensive than the Wonder Wash, but it handles bigger and dirtier loads. For RVs, boats, cabins, or extended camping without power, this is the most capable manual option on the market.

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Before You Get Started: Practical Reminders

  1. If you live in a four-season climate, winter air-drying is brutal. Clothes turn to ice on the line in freezing temps with little sun. Plan for indoor drying, a spinner, or a heat source.
  2. If you use a wringer, buttons and zippers will struggle and can break. Zip-tie a thin sponge around either end of the rollers — enough give to protect hardware, still enough pressure to wring. Turn clothing inside-out for zippers.
  3. Watch fingers, hair, and clothing near the wringer. This sounds obvious until it isn’t.

What To Look For

Size

Storage space is at a premium off-grid. Electric units need a dedicated nook — under-counter, in a closet, under a table. Manual non-electric units store almost anywhere, including a broom closet. The size vs. capacity tradeoff matters most for families: a household with multiple people will want the 10–18 lb capacity range, which justifies a larger footprint. A single person or couple can manage fine with a 5–8 lb unit and multiple small loads per session.

Power

This is often the deciding factor. With power available (cabin, RV hookup, generator, established solar), the electric models are far more convenient. The Giantex and KUPPET both run on 120V standard outlets and are conservative enough on wattage (260–310W) that a mid-sized solar battery bank handles them without stress.

Without reliable power — early solar setup without a large battery bank, extended camping, boat use, or a grid-down emergency — the Wonder Wash or Lavario are the answer. They require zero electricity and deliver genuinely clean clothes. A backup generator can also bridge the gap for electric units in an extended outage.

Capacity

Capacity is listed in pounds of dry laundry. A useful rule of thumb: one person generates roughly 7–10 lbs of laundry per week. A couple, 12–16 lbs. A family of four, 20–30 lbs weekly. Match capacity to your situation — undersizing means doing many small loads; oversizing wastes space and money. The 10–11 lb units in the middle of this list hit the sweet spot for one to two people.

Drying

Even the best spin-dry tubs won’t get clothes fully dry — they’ll be damp, not wet, which cuts line-drying time substantially. For anything beyond that, you’re hanging clothes or adding a standalone spin dryer. A dedicated spin dryer (separate from the washer) can cut drying time by half, which matters enormously in cold or humid conditions. The Charming Spinner (Amish-built, runs on battery or standard electric) gets high marks from homesteaders for exactly this reason — if you’ve had experience with one, let us know in the comments.

Gravity or Pump Drain

Gravity drain requires the drain port to be above your discharge point — meaning you usually need the machine elevated to drain into a bucket or low-clearance hose run. Pump drain lets the machine sit on the floor and push water upward to a sink or window. If you’re in a small or awkward space, a pump drain is worth paying for. Pump drain units require electricity, so manual-only setups are always gravity drain — plan your barrel or bucket placement accordingly.

DIY Washing Setups

The Windmill Washer

I live on the edge of the prairie, with several great wind farms within 10 miles. I’ve had a hankering to try building a wind-driven washing machine for a while — just as an experiment to see if I have enough consistent wind to make it work. My property sits in a valley with an old railroad truss blocking the west wind, which is what got me back thinking about laundry in the first place.

Windmill powered DIY off grid washing machine concept

The 3-Bucket Rinse and Wring Setup

One of the cleverest low-cost setups I’ve come across: three 5 or 6-gallon buckets stacked. The bottom bucket catches and holds grey water for garden reuse. The middle bucket has holes drilled throughout — you press clothes against it to squeeze water out. The top bucket has a lid, and you sit on it to apply pressure for rinsing. Simple, nearly free, and genuinely effective.

5 gallon bucket with holes for DIY laundry wringer setup

And on the drying side — the Charming Spinner. Amish-built (or at least Amish-sold), works on an off-grid battery setup or regular electric. No such thing as an energy-efficient dryer, but this spinner reportedly cuts drying time in half. Grey water is reusable. I save about $75 a year hanging clothes out in summer, but winter requires a dryer — I think the Charming Spinner would pay for itself in about two years. If you’ve used one, leave a comment — I’d love to know your experience.

Charming spinner off-grid clothes dryer

The Industrial Mop Bucket

Janitor mop bucket used as a DIY clothes wringer

A janitor’s mop bucket with a built-in wringer works as a clothes wringer in a pinch — accessible, cheap at any janitorial supply, and the wringer mechanism handles the squeeze work so you don’t have to. Pair it with a plunger-style agitator in a bucket for a complete no-electricity wash setup that costs under $30 total.

FAQs

How do I do laundry off-grid?

The process is more similar to conventional laundry than most people expect. You need a water source (pressurized faucet for the electric units, or manual fill for non-electric), detergent, and the washer. Electric models handle filling, washing, and draining with minimal intervention. Manual models require you to agitate — cranking the Wonder Wash, or pushing and pulling the Lavario basket — then drain and refill for a rinse cycle.

One important habit: discharge your wash water to a greywater collection if you’re conserving. Laundry greywater (with biodegradable soap) can go directly on garden beds or landscaping rather than down a drain. Over the course of a season, that adds up to meaningful water savings.

How do I use an off-grid washing machine?

For manual washers: fill, add detergent, agitate (2–5 minutes of cranking or plunging), drain, refill without detergent, agitate to rinse, drain. Heavily soiled clothes may need a second wash cycle. Wringing before hanging dramatically cuts line-dry time because manual washers have no spin cycle to remove excess water.

For electric models: load clothes, connect water inlet, position drain hose, select program and water level, start. Most will handle the wash-drain-rinse sequence automatically. Check mid-cycle on the first few loads to confirm the balance and water level are right for your setup.

How do I power my off-grid washing machine?

Electric units run on standard 120V — from a generator, a solar battery bank with inverter, or a wind setup. The 260–310W draw of the units on this list is manageable for a mid-sized solar array; a basic 400W panel and 100Ah lithium battery can handle a few loads per day. The price of solar and lithium has dropped significantly in the last few years, making this more accessible than it was. For full grid independence without power, the Wonder Wash and Lavario require nothing but effort.

What soap or detergent do I need?

All the units on this list accept standard HE detergent, homemade dry detergent mixes, or bar soap shavings. Unlike modern residential washers, none of these have delicate sensors that get gummed up by “wrong” detergents. Simple motors, simple pumps — they’re not picky. Use less than you think you need; smaller tubs mean less water and less detergent than your standard machine. A tablespoon of liquid HE detergent per load is usually sufficient.

What’s the difference between washers, wringers, and spinners?

Clothes hanging to dry after off grid washing

Wringers send clothes through two rollers that squeeze most of the water out mechanically. They’re slower (one garment at a time) and require care around buttons and zippers, but they work without electricity.

Spinners use centrifugal force — same principle as the spin cycle at the end of a conventional wash — to pull water out of a whole load simultaneously. Faster, less effort, and they tend to remove more water than a wringer. You can do a full load in one spin rather than feeding pieces through one at a time. On the whole, spinners are the better practical choice when you have the option.

Both are sold as standalone units separate from the washer, so you can combine any washer from this list with a dedicated spinner or wringer for a faster overall laundry workflow. For more on off-grid energy systems to power any of the electric options, see our dual-fuel generator guide and the broader off-grid living resources.

The Bottom Line

There’s no single right answer — it depends entirely on your power situation, your space, and how many people you’re washing for. Here’s the honest summary as of 2026:

  • Have power, want maximum convenience: Giantex Full-Automatic or the KUPPET Twin Tub for larger households. Both are well-priced relative to their capability.
  • Have power, need a large capacity: KUPPET at 18 lbs is the standout for families.
  • No power, solo or couple use: Wonder Wash. Cheap, simple, zero electricity, gets clothes genuinely clean in 2–5 minutes.
  • No power, heavier loads or bigger items: Lavario. The only non-electric washer that handles jeans and sweatshirts, not just delicates. US-made and worth the extra cost.
  • Budget is tight: Wonder Wash at ~$50 is the entry point. Pair it with a used wringer from an antique store or yard sale and you have a complete off-grid laundry setup for under $100.