SCP Survival

I’ve been spending a lot of time at my BOL  thinking about a one-gun solution for defending the family in time of SHTF. After much discussion with my survival family and colleagues, we collectively concluded that there is no such thing as a one-gun solution to address the plethora of variations of circumstances involved in a SHTF scenario.

Because times are tough and getting tougher, I decided that I would attempt to create a simple, cheap, and versatile weapon system, consisting of just one gun. The accompanying photos should give you an idea of what I have put together in hopes that many will see the attributes and limitations to this problem.

Let’s be clear. I don’t have all the answers. But I do have a background that that should legitimize my conclusions. So, just consider these words from a guy that wants to share an idea, based on a lifetime of firearms use, study and instructing.

You’ll immediately see that I have chosen a shotgun for my “one-gun option” or (OGO). The gun is a 12 gauge Mossberg/Maverick HS-12 , over/under, 18.5 inch improved cylinder barrel chokes(size of opening at end of barrel or “muzzle”). The gun is equipped with two picatinny rails, one fixed under the bottom barrel and the other on the top rear of the receiver. This is a clever rail on the receiver. The rail is cut thru with a “V”, allowing a sighted picture thru the rail to the front sight, which is  fiber optic, thereby creating a very bright, clear, accurate sight picture!

My general premise here is that a shotgun is the most versatile type of firearm produced. Let me tell you why:

• a wide range and type of ammo available to shotguns make it capable of taking game from birds/rabbits/squirrels(with birdshot), to coyotes/2-4 legged(buckshot), to larger mammals as elk/ moose/bear (slugs, either solid or hollow point). (author’s note- I once killed a Corvette with a shotgun using a slug. What a surprise to the driver dirtbag and unfortunate for the owner).
• ease of use- simple design, break open action, slide safety, manually activated triggers
• shotguns can be used as less than lethal devices (bean bag or rubber rounds)
• less expensive than assault rifles and many handguns.
• reliability+
• ammo available in every store and every farmhouse
• accuracy is very good to excellent with sabot slugs
• extreme foot pounds of energy at close distance and with slugs at distance
• most terminal firearm made- some restrictions (I know, how terminal does a firearm need to be)
• can launch line, signal device, fire starter, club, water portage!

Now for building this gun, I enhanced it considering my thoughts for its use as a SHTF weapon:

I immediately test fired the gun for reliability, accuracy (where it printed with shot and slugs). Then, I applied camo colors using wide shoelaces to break up the paint and outline. A 200 lumen tac light was attached to the forward rail. I felt this gun should remain simple and effective.

The light gives the operator surprise to the target and a very quick sight picture for same. A side saddle type of ammo carrier was affixed the the stock (L or R side) for backup reloading and as important, the ammo is a mix of #4 buck, 00 buck and slugs. The gun is rugged and reliable.

A sling could be attached easily but is not necessary on this 6.5 pound weapon. The butt stock is hollow reducing weight and allowing for emergency storage.

You could even put a bayonet on the muzzle using the fixed bottom rail! You might note from the photo that I keep two rounds secured by rubber band at the muzzle end of the barrels. Those two rounds are bird shot that I keep for quail egg eating crows in the area.

All in all–the gun is fast to action, easy to lash down, safe, simple and powerful.

I personally like to see my guns. On my old homestead I had a custom gun storage cabinet with glass doors built right into the living room wall — backed with a tanned, hair-on deer hide, with the rifles, shotguns, and pistols stacked against it in a proper display. Below it, behind knotty pine doors, I kept extra ammo, my best gun belt, and the cleaning kit. It kept the dust off and looked exactly like I wanted.

Then my home burned. So.

This home is small and doesn’t lend itself to Lodge-style decorating. The only space available was a closet tucked under the stairs — originally the master closet. I needed something short enough to fit under a closet rod, light enough to move myself, and lock-equipped to keep the grandkids out. I don’t have an arsenal. I own guns for hunting and homestead use: a couple of shotguns, a .22, and a couple of handguns. That’s it.

After some looking, I settled on the Sentinel gun cabinet. Here’s what I’ve learned from actually living with it.

The Sentinel Gun Cabinet: What You Get for ~$70

The Sentinel cabinet stands 52 inches tall and holds 10 to 12 long guns. It’s steel, it locks, and it was lightweight enough for me to haul into the house and set up alone. Assembly was minimal — the interior shelf and the sticky barrel rests. It has predrilled holes for anchoring to floors and walls, which the manual recommends hitting studs. My closet turned up no studs and practically no floor depth, so my anchoring situation is what it is. The fault is the house, not the cabinet.

Securely anchored to real studs it would keep 300-pound Bubba at bay for 5 to 10 minutes. The door fits tightly enough to make prying difficult, and the lock is surprisingly sturdy for the price point. For under $70 on sale, I’m genuinely impressed. It looks nice too — always matters.

Opened up: foam barrel rests keep the long guns upright and off each other, foam lines the bottom, and the top shelf holds handguns and ammo cans with room to spare. Above the cabinet I hang safety glasses and ear protection; pistol cases sit on top. Everything for a grab-and-go is in one place, in our main-level safe room off the master bath.

Let me be direct about what this is not: it’s not a gun safe. It didn’t take two people to move it. It’s not fireproof. It didn’t cost a month’s Social Security check. But for homestead storage of essential firearms — where the real goals are keeping grandkids out, keeping guns organized, and deterring casual theft — it’s exactly right.

Gun Cabinet vs. Gun Safe: Which One Do You Actually Need?

This is the question most people are really asking when they land on a page like this, so let’s settle it plainly. A gun cabinet and a gun safe are not the same thing, and choosing the wrong one for your situation is a real mistake in both directions — over-buying an expensive safe you don’t need, or under-buying a cabinet that can’t do the job you actually have.

	Gun Cabinet	Gun Safe
Primary job	Access control, organization, deterrence	Theft resistance, fire protection
Steel gauge	Lighter (18–20 gauge typically)	Heavier (10–14 gauge or more)
Weight	30–80 lbs — one person can manage	150–600+ lbs — needs help, often a dolly
Fireproof	No	Most are rated (check UL certification)
Cost	$60–$250	$300–$2,000+
Best for	Keeping kids out, basic organization, low-theft-risk homes	High-value collections, fire-prone areas, higher-risk situations

For most preppers and homesteaders with a working collection of hunting and home-defense firearms — not an investment collection, not irreplaceable heirlooms — a well-anchored gun cabinet does the job. The grandkids can’t get into it. Casual opportunists will move on to easier targets. Your long guns stay organized and grab-ready.

A gun safe makes sense when you have firearms worth thousands of dollars, live in a wildfire area, or have a genuine theft risk that warrants the weight and cost. If both those boxes aren’t checked, you may be spending several hundred dollars for peace of mind a $70 cabinet already gives you.

What to Look for in a Gun Storage Cabinet

If you’re shopping rather than inheriting, here’s what actually matters — not spec-sheet bragging points.

Height and Capacity

Measure your space first, not after. If it’s going in a closet under stairs like mine, a 52-inch cabinet is the right call. Standard long-gun cabinets run 52 to 60 inches; count your long guns and add two — you’ll acquire more. The stated capacity (10 guns, 12 guns) assumes slim long guns without scopes; if you run scoped rifles, assume two-thirds of the advertised number.

Anchoring Options

A cabinet that isn’t bolted down is a cabinet someone walks out with. Look for predrilled holes at floor and back-wall anchor points. Hit studs — use a stud finder before you drill, and pick your location with the studs, not around them. A properly anchored steel cabinet is not going anywhere in a hurry.

Lock Quality

Key locks are standard at the cabinet price point. They’re not pick-proof, but that’s not really the threat model — the threat model is a grandchild or a quick opportunist, and a key lock handles both. If you want a step up without going full safe, some cabinet models now offer a three-point locking bar or a secondary electronic keypad. Worth the extra $20 to $30 if you’re in a higher-risk situation.

Interior Fit and Finish

Foam barrel rests are the standard, and the Sentinel’s work fine. What you want to avoid is bare metal resting against your barrels. Look for foam or a soft liner on the bottom and sides. A top shelf for handguns and a small storage area for ammo, cleaning kit, and accessories makes the cabinet a one-stop grab-and-go rather than just a rack.

Safe Storage and Legal Considerations

Responsible gun ownership means knowing your state’s storage requirements before you buy anything. Several states now have laws specifying how firearms must be stored — particularly when children are in the home. A locked cabinet meets the legal standard in most jurisdictions, but check your own state’s statutes rather than assuming. The NRA-ILA state gun law database is a reliable reference. Whatever the law requires, the baseline is simple: if you’re not holding it, it should be locked up.

For more on the broader picture of firearms and home security, and building a system that covers guns, access, and home defense together, those resources are on the site. If you’re also thinking about what to store alongside your firearms — emergency guides, medical references, and preparedness documents — the preparedness downloads page has a full library.

Frequently Asked Questions

Is a gun cabinet good enough, or do I need a safe?

For most homeowners with a working firearm collection — not high-value or irreplaceable pieces — a well-anchored gun cabinet is good enough. It keeps children out, deters casual theft, and keeps your guns organized. A full gun safe makes sense when you have high-value firearms, live in a wildfire area, or face a genuine elevated theft risk.

How many guns does the Sentinel cabinet actually hold?

The 10-gun Sentinel holds 10 slim long guns as advertised. If your rifles have scopes, budget for about two-thirds of the stated capacity — scoped rifles need more lateral clearance between them. The top shelf handles handguns and leaves room for ammo storage.

Can someone break into a gun cabinet?

Yes, with time and the right tools. A gun cabinet is not a safe. A determined, prepared burglar can defeat one in minutes. What a properly anchored cabinet does is eliminate casual access (kids, opportunistic theft) and slow down everyone else — buying time for an alarm to trigger or a neighbor to notice. For higher-security needs, step up to a heavy-gauge gun safe.

Where is the best place to put a gun cabinet in the house?

The best location is accessible to you, anchored to real studs, out of plain sight from windows and entry points, and in a low-humidity area. Closets, dedicated storage rooms, and master bedrooms are common choices. Avoid garages and basements with moisture issues — humidity is hard on both firearms and the cabinet itself.