SCP Survival – Best Survival Gear, Food Storage & Preparedness Guides

Garbage Soup – The King of All Survival Soups [Recipe]

March 11, 2024 by Seasoned Citizen Prepper

Soups have long been the mainstay of any cook who is trying to stretch the larder to feed more people, or the budget to save money.

Soup is the basic survival food. This is part of a series of Survival Soup recipes that you can make from commonly stored foods, your garden in season, foraging wild edibles, or what is seasonally plentiful on the homestead.

Do without further adieu, I give you Garbage Soup. Money-saving, ecologically-sound and delicious.

You Will Need:

Frozen (or fresh) veggie-scraps
Frozen meat (or dried, canned or fresh), skin and bone scraps

I will admit, NOT the most appetizing name, but it can save you a lot of cash over a year’s time. What do you do with the skins of the onions you use? The carrot and potato peels? Root ends of celery? Chicken bones and skins? Shrimp shells?

They go in the trash, or down the disposal, or (hurray!) in the compost pile, right? Try putting all of the veggie scraps into a big zip bag (yes, even the papery skins from the onions – great color). Put the meat scraps into another, squeeze air out of both and just stick them in your freezer.

Directions:

When the veggie bag is full, dump it into a stockpot, add garlic (I always add garlic) and some black peppercorns
Bring to a boil, reduce heat and simmer about an hour or so.
Strain and press any remaining liquid out of the veg.

You now have some very tasty, and FREE vegetable stock. The stuff in the strainer will break down in your compost pile MUCH faster.

If you want a chicken/meat/seafood stock, sear the bones/fat/skin etc in a skillet and simmer in the veggie stock another hour or so, Strain again and skim off excess fat. DO NOT compost the meat scraps, or you will get bad smells and rats.

You just cannot beat free food :)

Are You Prepared for Blizzards and Winter Storms?

March 11, 2024 by Seasoned Citizen Prepper

The weather is not always predictable, as we know. When temperatures hover around freezing, rain can turn to sleet and sleet to snow. One inch of rain equals approximately ten inches of snow.

In October of 2013, the Black Hills of South Dakota had a storm system come in that was just supposed to produce rain. Torrential rains turned to sleet and then to snow. The weight of the freezing rain and sleet snapped power lines.

Two days later with four feet of snow on the ground, and much of the area without power, the storm passed. Entire herds of cattle, horses and sheep on open range, soaked by rain, could not withstand the freezing temperatures and died. Many people were without power for a week.

The longest known power outage that I know of in North America, 3 weeks, due to sleet was in Canada about 25 years ago. It can happen.

Let’s pretend that a winter storm is predicted for your area, you have 3 hours notice. What will you do?

Are You Prepared?

The winter storm has knocked power out for 24 hours…
The winter storm has knocked power out for 3 days…
The winter storm has knocked power out for a week…
The winter storm has knocked power out for 2 weeks…
The winter storm has knocked power out for 3 weeks…

Everyone is in different situations, but you are at home without power in cold temperatures for your area. If you are reading this, you are into preparedness and should have no problem with 1 -3 days without power. But what about a week? Two weeks? Three weeks?

If you can only keep one room in your home warm, when do you decide to turn off the water and drain the pipes? Do you unplug your appliances or turn off the electrical panel switch to prevent power surges? What about 3 weeks with no bathroom facilities? Do you cooperate with your neighbors (And how for how long?) or hoard and go into self defense mode?

What If You’re Caught in a Blizzard or Snow Storm in Your Car?

Yes, this happened to me and it could have turned out badly…

I was coming home from a conference 200 miles from home in a winter storm that turned into a blizzard. As I was going down the interstate listening to the radio I could hear numerous road closings just behind me.

It was wicked going at about 30 mph, basically following tail lights of the vehicle ahead of me. It was white knuckle driving in near white out conditions with numerous cars and tractor trailers in the ditch.

I finally got off the interstate within 20 miles of home and was stunned to see no snow plows on the road. The radio was reporting that the snow plows had stopped because of hazardous conditions. Well, what about those of us stuck trying to get home!

I was within 7 miles of home in my little Escort wagon with about 6 inches of snow on the road and a hill, not a big one either, to climb. Half way up, pushing snow with my front end, I was stopped. I tried it a half dozen more times and was now stuck on the road in the middle of the lane.

That little car wasn’t going anywhere!

This is before I was into preparedness, but still had a winter bag in the car with extra snow boots and a parka. And I did have a cell phone at the time. I called Bob and told him where I was and that I was stuck. He informed me that our 4 wheel drive truck was in the pasture (where we had last hauled wood) and there was no way to come and get me.

The radio was announcing that there would be no emergency rescues that night. To just stay put in your car, if you were stuck, with the emergency lights on and call in your location to 911 for when the snowplows would start clearing the roads in the morning.

What would YOU do?

What if I had gone down in the ditch with the tailpipe covered in snow, but the engine was running for warmth?
What if the car would not run for warmth (out of gas or whatever), what then?
Other thoughts?

The rest of the story…

The little valley I was in blocked enough of the driving snow that I could see a farmhouse in the distance with a light on – it was nighttime. I pulled on my heavy boots and parka and made my way through deep snow and high winds to the farmhouse. They knew me; I knew them. Their son had a 4 wheel drive truck and took me home.

I left my keys in the car with the flashers on and they moved it in the morning when the snow plows started up again. Not fun, but it could have been far worse.

Something to think about…

We are coming up on the Christmas season and your sons, daughters, or grandkids may not have as much sense as you do about what could happen. Please talk to them about winter preparedness and if they don’t have a winter bag in their car, it may be a good gift.

You could save a life.

These questions and this scenario is not at all farfetched–think ahead!

Carne Seca Adovada Soup [Recipe]

March 11, 2024 by Seasoned Citizen Prepper

This was completely an experiment in using only storable items, I’m surprised that it worked out as well as it did.

This is DEFINITELY going to be a lot better if you use homemade, air-dried beef jerky vs. the commercially-made stuff. If you have to use ‘store’ jerky, I’d go for the ‘steak nugget’ style before the flat strips.

Dried Ancho and Pasilla chile peppers are available at every supermarket in areas that have any sort of Latin-American populations, or online. They are very flavorful, but not at all ‘hot’. (Chiles de Arbol can hurt you – not all dried peppers are mild)

They are also pretty cheap flavor-enhancers. If you prep them by breaking off the stem-ends, pouring out the seeds and vacuum-sealing, the 25th Century archeologists who discover your stash will probably say “MMMMM.. tasty…”

This is NOT a quick MRE-type meal. Just like our ancestors, if you’re going to use dried, preserved ingredients, it will take a while, and you may have to plan in advance.

Ingredients:

“big handful” (or 2) of homemade beef jerky (“Carne Seca” in Spanish – a popular Mexican ingredient)
“handful” of dried Ancho and/or Pasilla chiles
heaping tbsp. of dried Oregano leaves
about a tbsp. of ground cumin seed
1-2 tbsp. dehydrated onion flakes
1 tbsp. granulated garlic
water
chicken stock or bouillion (optional)
salt and pepper to taste.

Directions:

In one container, cover the jerky with boiling water, and let sit 3-4 hours to rehydrate.
In another container, add chiles, oregano, onion and garlic, cover with boiling water and let sit to rehydrate. Refrigerating #’s 1 and 2 overnight (covered) is not a bad idea, if possible.
Grind up the chile/herb/onion/garlic/water into a thick sauce. “Abuelita” (grandma) probably used a lava-rock mortar and pestle for this. A hand immersion blender, or a food processor or a blender will work faster under ideal circumstances.
Drain the meat (save liquid) and add rehydrated meat to the chile/herb sauce.
Add the meat-rehydrating liquid, if needed, until everything is submerged.
Let the meat marinate, refrigerated, as long as possible. 2 or 3 days is not a bad idea.
When ready, dump the whole batch into a pot, add water (or chicken stock) until everything is covered.
Bring to a boil, reduce to a simmer, simmer covered 2-3 hours, checking liquid level – add more if needed (especially if on an open fire)
Let it simmer, uncovered, another 10-15 minutes, to thicken sauce.

This was surprisingly good over rice and black beans with homemade corn tortillas. The meat isn’t ‘fall apart tender’ like a normal pork shoulder Carne Adovada, but much more than just “acceptable” or “MRE” quality.

Survival Cord and Rope Tricks

March 11, 2024 by Seasoned Citizen Prepper

I’m willing to bet that every single one of us has, at some point, dealt with a big ol’ hank of some kind of rope, or other cordage, that looks like this:

All neat and pretty and organized, UNTIL that fateful moment when you actually have to use it, and then, no matter how OCD you may be about unwinding it, it IS going to tangle, knot and kink, and you will waste time trying to get a useful piece of rope to use to fasten something.

It is an even more annoying situation if the cordage is wet and/or your fingers are cold. The hank is also pretty big and bulky. 50 feet of 550 paracord is probably not a huge storage/carry issue. 200 feet of ½ inch rope, done this way, is almost as big as a sleeping bag in a stuff sack. My packs aren’t THAT big.

Old-time mariners apparently swore by flat coils on deck to store extra line for fast deployment. (I would assume they also swore AT them a lot – imagine the daily rum ration being passed out, and Jack Tar kicking the coil, and undoing a half hour’s work..) Since I don’t live on a 100-gun frigate-of-the-line with a full crew of scurvy-knave-pirates to assist me in becoming the Scourge of the Seven Seas, this bulky, non-portable cordage storage idea doesn’t work real well.

Carefully-wound hanging coils also work pretty well, only a bit more tangle-prone than flat coils, but once again, they take up a lot of space, and are not at all easy to store inside a pack or EDC bag.

Where nautical lore fails, mountaineering-practice doesn’t. I was taught this method by a climber-friend when I was in college, and so far, it has never failed me. The “knotting method” is called a “double chain sinnet”.

Spend 5 minutes looking at the photographs and practicing, and you will be able to do it with your eyes closed. It works with string, mason twine, bankline, paracord, clothesline, rope, whatever you have.

NOTE: If you knit or crochet, you can probably already do this better than I can. It’s basically a long line of crochet stitches. (note 2: if your cordage is already on a spool – leave it there as long as possible- spools are HANDY.).

Take the time to untangle, un-knot and un-kink your line (Spin the line between your fingers when it ‘wants to go in the wrong direction’). Put the 2 ends together, and lay it out as evenly and neatly as possible. You’re just making a loop half the length of your rope.
At the “loop” end, tie a simple slip-knot – just an overhand with a loop slipped inside – does not have to be too tight. Tight is not your friend. If the ends are not perfectly-aligned, big deal.. nobody is grading you :)
Take both running pieces (“bights”) of the line, and pass a loop through the loop of the slip-knot.
Tighten slightly, and pass another loop through the loop you just made.
Repeat until you are almost out of rope. Slip the 2 ends through the last loop, just to keep it from unravelling.

You will end up with a flat “strap” that can be used for tying down items to a pack or roof-rack, when needed. Climbers frequently carry their ropes, tied this way “Bandido Bandoleer” style, frequently with extra carabiners through the loose loops. The big advantage is that the rope will now be able to conform to the size and shape on whatever you carry it in/on. (For example purposes, approx. 7 feet of paracord is now about 7 inches long and 1 inch wide)

To deploy your rope, you only have 1 “knot” to undo, then just give it a yank (Pull both ends outward). Assuming you didn’t pull anything too tight, it all pulls free in 1 tangle-free length. Even if it doesn’t save your life on a mountain or at sea, it can keep you from using a lot of bad language when you need a piece of rope. :)

On another note, this method also works well for easily stowing heavy-duty electrical extension cords from becoming tangled nests of annoyance when you need them. (In this usage, it is called a “Contractor’s Wrap”).

Magnifying Glass – Still One The Simplest and Cheapest Survival Fire Starters

March 11, 2024 by Seasoned Citizen Prepper

Alright folks – how many of you remember burning leaves with a magnifying glass when you were kids?

I do. I thought it was the coolest thing to get just the right angle so that the suns light was concentrated onto a pinpoint spot. I would get a small pile of dry leaves, place that bright spot onto them and watch the smoke start to rise – then…..”Fire!!!”

Those were the good ole days.

Anyways – a magnifying glass can be extremely useful. Whether it is reading small print, removing a splinter, or starting a fire – a magnifying glass is an inexpensive item to have as part of a survival and preparedness system.

Sometimes cheap and simple works best.

6 Best Survival Radios

March 10, 2024 by SCPadmin

Best survival radios for emergencies lined up together

The best survival radios earn their spot in your gear whether you’re miles from civilization or just living a more minimalist, off-grid life. They keep you apprised of weather emergencies and atmospheric conditions. They also pack in flashlights, power banks, and SOS beacons most people forget to bring separately. These aren’t your dad’s dusty hand-crank radio.

Every radio on this list handles the basics well. What separates a great pick from an average one comes down to power options, battery capacity, and how it holds up when the grid actually goes down.

The Short Answer: Our Pick for the Best Survival Radio

Short on time? Here’s our top pick for the best combination of features, durability, and value in 2026:

The FosPower Emergency Radio

Why It’s #1:

Can be powered 4 ways
Internal 2,000mAh power bank
SOS alarm
Lifetime warranty

Check Latest Price

Power flexibility topped our criteria this round. A dead battery in the backcountry turns an expensive radio into dead weight. The FosPower charges four ways: AAA batteries, its built-in solar panel, a hand-crank dynamo, or a Micro-USB source.

The FosPower packs a standard AM/FM receiver for entertainment during downtime, plus a powerful 1W LED flashlight and a separate reading light for more diffused light. Its respectable 2,000mAh power bank keeps a phone or GoPro charged and ready.

It also receives NOAA stations and emergency alerts, which matters most if you’re in storm-prone or earthquake-prone territory. A few minutes’ warning can make a real difference. If things go sideways, the built-in SOS alarm signals rescuers to your position.

At around $40, and still one of the best-reviewed compact options on the market in 2026, the FosPower Emergency Radio is our pick for the best survival radio overall.

Other Great Survival Radios

Kaito KA500

6 options for power
AM/FM/SW/NOAA radio
14.5” antenna and signal strength meter

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The Kaito KA500 packs in more features than most, but it also weighs nearly half a pound more and costs more too. Along with AM/FM and NOAA support, it adds a dual-range shortwave receiver, backed by a built-in signal strength meter and stronger reception circuitry. Once tuned in, a headphone jack lets you listen privately while saving battery.

Its internal NiMH battery charges from the solar panel, hand-crank dynamo, Mini-USB, or an AC/DC adapter, and it also runs on 3 AA batteries in a pinch. Once powered, you can tune in AM/FM/NOAA/SW broadcasts, use the flashlight or reading lamp, or charge a phone from the 5V USB output. A red LED SOS light rounds it out for signaling in an emergency.

Midland ER310PRO

10,000mAh battery — up to 200 hours of runtime
Bluetooth streaming
USB-C bidirectional charging

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Update: We swapped this pick from the original Midland ER310 to Midland’s late-2025 upgrade, the ER310PRO — the standard ER310 is still sold, but the Pro is now the stronger buy. Its 10,000mAh battery is nearly four times the size of the standard ER310’s 2,600mAh cell, and Midland rates it for over 200 hours of radio use on a full charge.

The ER310PRO adds Bluetooth streaming, a first for Midland’s emergency line, so you can pair a phone and listen to music or podcasts once regular broadcasts go quiet. It charges via USB-C, solar panel, or hand crank, and that same port pushes power back out to top off a phone or tablet.

It keeps the Cree LED flashlight, SOS strobe, and ultrasonic dog whistle that made the standard ER310 popular. The trade-off: the Pro drops the removable AA battery backup in favor of the larger internal cell, and at roughly $100, it costs about double the classic ER310. If budget matters more than runtime, the original ER310 remains a solid, cheaper alternative.

American Red Cross Emergency NOAA Weather Radio

Red LED beacon
AM/FM/7-channel NOAA receiver
2,600mAh battery

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The Red Cross-branded FRX3 keeps its distinctive shape, which shields the volume and tuning knobs from getting bumped or changed by accident. Its 2,600mAh lithium-ion battery charges quickly from the ergonomic hand crank, or tops off passively from the built-in solar panel. The included AC charger offers the fastest option when you’re near an outlet.

An easy-to-read LCD shows the active power source, the tuned station, and battery level. The pack reliably charges phones and other small devices, and the LED flashlight helps in low light. The beacon function uses a single red LED. Eton, which manufactures the radio for the Red Cross, now also sells an upgraded “FRX3+” version with the same core feature set, if you’d rather have the newer model.

RunningSnail Emergency NOAA Portable Radio

4,000mAh lithium-ion battery
AUX input
Large LCD readout

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The RunningSnail Emergency NOAA Portable Radio packs a lot into a modest package. It runs on 3 AAA disposable batteries, but you’ll rarely need them, thanks to the massive 4,000mAh internal power bank. Keep it topped off via hand crank, solar panel, or Micro-USB, and you get hours of radio time, SOS alarm, reading light, or flashlight use.

Beyond the usual AM/FM/NOAA receiver, this unit adds an AUX input most models skip. Connect an AUX cord and you get your entire music library, not just live broadcasts — a genuine advantage if you’ll use this radio outside of emergencies too. The large LCD display shows battery level, active power source, and tuning details at a glance.

RunningSnail Emergency Self Powered Weather Radio

1,000mAh lithium-ion battery
IPX3 water resistance
3 options for charging the battery

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The RunningSnail Emergency Self Powered Weather Radio skips the extras and keeps the price under $20, making it an excellent budget pick. Its 1,000mAh power bank charges via hand crank, solar panel, or Micro-USB cable. Cranking at a brisk 2-3 revolutions per second fills it in about 4 hours; charging over USB beforehand is faster.

The analog tuner and volume dial reach AM, FM, or NOAA stations for continuous listening or alerts. A 1-watt LED flashlight lights your way, and the reading light kicks on automatically to keep a tent or campsite lit for evening tasks. In a pinch, the power bank can give a phone enough of a boost for one crucial call.

Midland ER310 survival radio with USB charging port — *Like many survival radios, Midland’s ER310 (and its upgraded ER310PRO sibling) features a USB port for recharging your phone on the go.*

What To Look For In A Survival Radio

The most important thing to keep in mind is battery capacity.

Battery capacity should match how you actually plan to use the radio. Casual weather checks or evening fireside listening only need a 1,000mAh bank.

Planning to run a reading light for hours, listen more often, or keep a phone, tablet, or camera charged? Look for at least a 2,000mAh power bank. (For more on keeping devices charged during an extended outage, see our guide to power outage preparedness.)

The second factor: how likely you are to need emergency features.

If you might need to receive emergency alerts or send an SOS signal, pick a unit built for both, with the largest battery you can get. An SOS function shouldn’t drain the battery before it has a chance to attract attention.

The third factor: your charging and power options.

Every radio here charges via built-in solar and hand crank, though some add extra options. Going from grid power to no power? Look for a model that fast-charges over USB or AC and takes disposable batteries as backup.

Generating your own power and using it sparingly? A slow trickle charge from the solar panel works fine and skips the extra hardware. Pair your radio with a broader bug-out bag checklist so charging isn’t the only power plan you have.

Kaito Voyager survival radio with AM, FM, and shortwave bands — *One of the great features of many emergency radios is band versatility. Pictured here, the Kaito Voyager has AM, FM, and 2 shortwave bands.*

FAQs

What’s the difference between lithium-ion and NiMH batteries?

Lithium-ion batteries are newer technology; NiMH batteries have been around much longer, and you’ve probably seen them in cordless home phones. Both use a series of small cells bound together, but lithium batteries outperform NiMH in most ways: they hold larger charges, last longer, and discharge to a lower level without damage.

Are any of these radios waterproof?

Yes. Every radio we’ve highlighted carries at least an IPX3 water-resistance rating, meaning it can handle running water of up to 10 liters per minute for 5 minutes. Don’t submerge them, but they’ll stand up to heavy rain or storms without issue.

How quickly can I charge these radios?

Hand-crank dynamos generally recharge around 250mAh per hour at 2-3 revolutions per second. Solar panels work best for maintenance charging and take at least 6-8 hours of direct sun to fill the battery. Units with USB or AC charging can reach a full charge in a couple of hours or less, depending on battery capacity.

Do the SOS functions send any kind of radio signal?

No. None of these radios broadcast like an EPIRB (emergency position-indicating radio beacon). Their SOS functions are limited to a flashing LED or an audible alarm loud enough to carry across a significant distance in the wilderness.

How much do these units weigh?

Weight varies by model. The lightest is the RunningSnail Emergency Self Powered Weather Radio at 7.8 ounces, and the heaviest is the Kaito KA500 at a still-manageable 1.4 pounds. None of these radios will add meaningful bulk to your pack.

What’s The Bottom Line?

Our favorite among the best survival radios remains the FosPower Emergency Radio — but it may not be exactly what you need. Weigh your own situation, and your own needs, before deciding.

Want maximum runtime and don’t mind the extra cost? The Midland ER310PRO is worth a look. Prefer digital tuning or a bigger battery bank? Reading through our breakdown of the leading models above will help you land on the right survival radio for your situation.