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7 Best Off Grid Washing Machines

March 8, 2024 by Seasoned Citizen Prepper

Best Off Grid Washing Machines

Off grid laundry has come up a number of times as a self-sufficiency topic for 2 reasons:

  1. Because many people in our crowd are wanting to be free from the electrical and water grids, and need find another way of washing clothes.
  2. Because we are also usually looking for ways to save money.

The reality is this though: an off grid washing machine is a necessity for anyone looking to spend a significant amount of time away from cities and towns, living off grid, or simply living a minimalist lifestyle. These machines range from small capacity, manually operated units to larger electric units with washing programs and spin dry capabilities.

The Short Answer

1. Giantex Full-Automatic Washing Machine

  • 10 programs and 8 water levels
  • 9.9-pound capacity
  • Child lock function
  • Automatic load balancer
Check Latest Price

The Giantex Full-Automatic Washing Machine is a great option for making a dent in that laundry pile. It offers full control over washing functions, water levels, and delays via the LCD display. The child lock offers a handy way to lock all buttons and functions and sounds an alarm if the lid is opened, a great feature for homes with curious little ones. The clear lid allows users to monitor the washing progress and water condition.

The modestly sized cabinet is only 33.6” x 19.8” x 19.7”, and fits in nearly any nook of your cabin, boat, or camper. Once you have loaded the 9.9-pound capacity stainless steel honeycomb basket, simply hook up the water inlet to your faucet, position the drain hose, and set your wash program. This unit will auto-regulate water intake, and if the load becomes unbalanced, the auto-balance feature will pause the wash cycle and work to redistribute the load more evenly.

Other Great Off-Grid Washing Machines

2. Panda PAN6320W

  • Electronic control over 10 programs and 5 water levels
  • Water pump for quick discharge
  • Includes quick-connect adapters for standard faucets
  • 10-pound capacity
Check Latest Price

Not only does the Panda PAN6320W have a full array of programs for load types, water levels, and wash durations, but it features a water pump to quickly empty the unit. This water can be discharged via the 55-inch long drain hose to any gray water holding tank or disposal area. It has an included water supply line with adapters ready for any standard US faucet type.

All this comes in a unit that is only 34” x 20” x 19”, and even includes casters for simple maneuvering in your RV, camper, or cabin. The stainless steel basket will not rust or corrode and can handle up to 10 pounds of clothes at a time. You will not have to worry about draining your solar battery array or having to stress your generator because this washer only requires 310W to run on a standard 110V grounded outlet.

3. Giantex Portable Mini Compact Twin Tub Washing Machine

  • 11-pound wash capacity, 6.6-pound spin-dry capacity
  • Dual water inlets
  • Separate wash and spin timers
  • Gravity drain
Check Latest Price

The Giantex Mini Twin Tub model cuts out some of the bells and whistles, while still remaining a solid functioning washer, for a lower price point. The washer portion of the unit uses 260W, and the spin dryer uses just 140W, of standard 120V/60Hz power. The dual water intake allows you to fill the washer side manually but also allows some water to be added to the spin side, to better rinse the clothes of any remaining soap, while drying them.

One of the great things about this unit is it is significantly shorter than several others at just under 30 inches. This can be nice if you plan on storing it under a counter, table, or tucked away elsewhere. It measures 28.5” x 24.8” x 15”. The small size and lightweight come in handy when it needs to drain, it comes with a 20” hose to facilitate easily gravity draining the washtub.

4. KUPPET Compact Twin Tub Portable Mini Washing Machine

  • 18-pound wash capacity
  • Pump drain
  • 1300RPM spin dry
  • 280W wash & 140W dry
Check Latest Price

The KUPPET Compact Twin Tub Portable Mini Washing Machine packs a whopping 18-pound wash capacity in a sleek and modern design. The controls are a clean and uncomplicated set of three dials, for the wash timer, wash selector, and spin timer. The stainless steel snap ring keeps the water supply line securely attached to nearly any faucet size or type.

This high efficiency portable washer can be stored easily as it measures only 33.4” x 27.9” x 17.3”, and comes with a 56” drain hose, so when the drain pump empties the tub, you can make sure the water goes where you want it without having to move the unit to drain.

The unit has a 15-minute wash timer and 5-minute dry timer, so you can be sure that you always have full control over your wash cycles, without having to babysit the unit.

5. SUPER DEAL Portable Compact Mini Twin Tub Washing Machine

  • 8-pound wash capacity, 5-pound dry capacity
  • Dual water inlet
  • Gravity drain
  • Cover plate for spin-dry tub
Check Latest Price

The SUPER DEAL Portable Compact Mini Twin Tub Washing Machine packs a lot of power into a small cabinet. The unique pulsator agitates the clothes without damaging them or bunching up and throwing the washtub off balance.

Each tub has its own water inlet for easy filling and rinsing. Fill the washer side before starting the 15-minute wash timer, switch tubs and add a small amount of water while spinning in order to help rinse out any remaining soap, and ensure a clean and complete spin out.

The 26” x 13” x 12” cabinet is small enough, and at just over 26 pounds it is light enough, to be stored or moved just about anywhere. It comes with a handy cover plate for the spin tub, that minimizes splashing and keeps the nearly dry clothes from coming out during the spin cycle. Even when both tubs are working, this unit is extra quiet, as long as the loads are balanced.  

6. Wonder Wash Compact Washing Machine

  • 5-pound capacity
  • Fully non-electric
  • Gravity drain
  • Lever latch lid
Check Latest Price

The Wonder Wash Compact Washing Machine is one of the most well-known and well-loved off grid washing machines. It is a fully non-electric hand washer for clothes, and requires only a slow crank to tumble the drum and agitate your clothes.

While the small 5-pound capacity seems small, the average two to five minute wash time and minimal water usage make it possible to do several loads of laundry per hour.

One of the great things about this fully manual unit is the ease of operation, right down to the lid. Instead of having to screw and unscrew the lid each time, there is a unique lever lock.

Simply lift the lever, swap the load, replace the lid and push the lever down and it’s ready for another tumble. This unit is one of the greenest options you can get, using zero electricity, and nearly 90% less water than standard washers.

7. Lavario Portable Clothes Washer

  • Fully non-electric
  • Powerflow technology
  • Uses 5 gallons per fill
  • Gravity drain
Check Latest Price

The Lavario Portable Clothes Washer is another fantastic non-electric washer. Rather than a tumbler method, this washer uses a clothes basket nestled tightly in the water bucket.

Lifting and plunging the clothes basket activates the Powerflow Technology, where the push and pull strokes force water through the fabric to get your clothes clean quickly and completely. It uses minimal arm strength for maximum results. Gravity and buoyancy do most of the work.

Perfect for RVs, cabins, boats, or even apartments and dorm rooms. A typical load of laundry in the Lavario takes less than 20 minutes from first fill to last rinse and empty. Super lightweight and portable, this washer can go pretty much anywhere and doesn’t use any electricity.

Ready To Try Your Hand At Some Off Grid Laundry? Keep These Things in Mind:

  1. First of all, remember that if you live in a true “4 seasons” climate, winter is a nasty time to to air dry your clothes. With freezing temps and very little sun, it’s easy for clothes to turn to ice on the line.
  2. If you choose to get a wringer, remember that buttons and zippers will have a hard time passing through a wringer, and can actually be broken by it. In order to avoid this, just zip tie a thin sponge around either end – enough give to not break anything, but still get the water out. A manual clothes wringer and a few other types of off grid washing machines allow you to control how fast the clothes go through, so you can keep a closer eye and more careful touch on “problem clothing.”
  3. Watch fingers, hair, clothing… and…. other body parts near the wringer!

What To Look For In Your Off-Grid Washing Machine

Size

This is a consideration that many of us face when buying a new appliance for off-grid use. Not only is storage space at a premium, but when it is being used, it has to be worth the space it takes up.

For the electric units, you will need a nook, or closet, under-counter, or under-table space for it to live. 

For a smaller non-electric washer or manual washer machine, you can probably store them lots of places, even in the smallest broom closet. 

This size vs. function trade-off can be negotiated if you have large amounts of laundry. For example, if you have a spouse and multiple children, that laundry can pile up, and being able to wash 8-10 pounds at a time can make that extra size worth it.

Power

Depending on the type of off-grid environment you plan to use it in, this can be the deciding factor.

For use in situations where you have power, like cabins and RVs, you will want to be as economical as possible with your electricity. To this end, we have made efforts to lists the power consumption where possible, so that you can determine which ones will fit your needs. If you have the power to spare, an electric model might be right for you. They are a great combination of economy, portability, and convenience.

For scenarios where you are unable to spare the electricity, such as just getting started with solar, where you may not have a large battery bank yet, or even extended camping situations where you will not have power at all, then the fully manual models will be the best. You will still be able to do small loads quickly and efficiently. 

Capacity

When looking at the capacity, most models are measured in pounds of dry laundry that can fit in the basket. This is another point where you have to evaluate your specific needs. For a single person or a couple, you probably will not need more than a few pounds of laundry at a time, unless you space out your washings. If you wash for more than one or two people, it will probably be more economical for you to get a little larger unit, so that you will not have to do dozens of loads before you finish. 

Drying Ability

Drying is nearly a fully luxury option. Even the models that have a spin-dry tub, it will not get your clothes fully dry as a residential unit will. But there will be a convenience and time compromise between 

Gravity Or Pump Drain

This is another option that may be a luxury to some and a necessity for others. When you consider where you may be storing and using your washer, you may need the water pump for easy draining, or you might be able to just run the drain hose and let gravity do the work. Obviously the models with a drain pump will need electricity, so keep that in mind when evaluating your possible choices.

What About DIY Washing Setups?

The Windmill

I live on the edge of the prairie and we have several great wind farms within 10 miles of here. I’ve had a hankering to try building this wind driven washing machine for a while just as an experiment to see if I have enough wind to make this work as this property is nestled in a valley with an old RR truss blocking the west wind and that is what got me back on the subject of laundry.

wind washing machine

3-Bucket Setup for Rinsing and Wringing

I stumbled across a couple of posts on off grid laundry that have some unique ideas that I thought you may find valuable.

laundry 5 gallon bucket holey

The poster is working with a standard plunger type manual washer in a bucket, but her rinse setup is what impressed me! Three 5 or 6 gallon buckets, bottom one holds the grey water for reuse, middle one is full of holes to press the water out of the clothes, top one has a lid and you just sit on it to rinse the water out of the clothes. Very simple, low cost, and ingenious!

charming spinner

And what about getting the clothes even drier? The Charming Spinner! Amish built, or at least sold, works with an off-grid battery type setup and regular electric, and Lordy, I want one!

There is no such thing as an energy efficient dryer. Although the ones that have a solid top with the lint removal in front toward the bottom are about 20% more efficient. The thing is that the clothes come out of the washing machine wet, even if you spin them twice. She swears that this little spinner can save 1/2 the time in drying clothes – and yes, you have the grey water to reuse.

I save an easy $75 a year hanging my clothes out during the summer. However, the winter is dryer time. I’m thinking the Charming Spinner would pay for itself in about 2 years and be there in a preparedness situation. Please let me know if you have any experience with this little machine as I had not heard of it before.

The Industrial Mop Bucket

janitors bucket

How about the idea of using a simple janitor’s mop buck and the wringer as a clothes wringer?

I ran across this really neat manual washing machine with an agitating basket. And then I ran across an article by a gal who is using a simple janitor’s bucket to rinse and wring out her clothes – accessible, simple and effective.

FAQs

How do I do laundry off-grid?

Doing laundry off-grid is surprisingly similar to doing laundry using conventional residential washers and dryers, or commercial washers and dryers at a laundromat. For starters, regardless of whether you have an electric or non-electric unit, you will need a water supply.

Most of the electric units will have a water inlet similar to your conventional machines, where if you have a faucet or other source of pressurized water, the inlet hose attaches to that and you fill the machine after loading your clothes and adding your detergent.

You can also fill via the lid, by pouring your water in. This is handy if you use a rainwater catchment that is not pressurized. With a non-electric unit, you simply add the water manually.

Once the unit has your clothes, detergent, and water, it is time to wash. For the electric models, select your wash options and duration, and let it run. For the manual washers, you need to agitate them yourself, then drain and refill for the rinse. Electric units will drain automatically, whether it is via a drain pump or gravity drain. Some electric models will handle the water inlet and monitor the level, so they can wash, drain, and rinse all by themselves.

You want to make sure that you are discharging your dirty water to a greywater collection if you are trying to conserve water because unlike black water, greywater can be added to the garden beds or used for other utilitarian purposes. 

How do I use an off grid washing machine?

Using manual washing machines is extremely simple. Just fill them up and add water. Depending on the model, to agitate you will need to manually crank the handle to tumble the load like with the Wonder Wash or pull and push the basket up and down as with the Lavario. Once you have agitated the load for 2-5 minutes, the soiling should be sufficiently mitigated. After the first wash cycle, particularly with manual machines, you may need a second cycle if the clothes were heavily soiled or stained. So just add more water, a little more detergent, and repeat.

To rinse, simply fill with water without detergent, and agitate well for a few more minutes, then drain and either wring out your clothes or take them straight to the line for drying. Particularly with manual washers, wringing will speed up the dry time immensely, because there is no spin cycle to help remove the extra water before hanging up to dry.

Where do I buy an off-grid washing machine?

Like most things these days, you can obtain very economical and well-performing options from online marketplaces like Amazon. They will have enormous amounts of options and variants you can choose from. You will be able to find something that will fit your needs, without devastating your budget.

Of course, there are other options from other sources. There are off-grid suppliers, and shops that sell Amish-built goods, but generally speaking those options are incredibly expensive. There are all-metal manual washers that are nearly a thousand dollars, and for those of us living an off-grid lifestyle, that sort of expense for a laundry item is very nearly out of the question. You can spend about a fifth of that on a very useful electric or non-electric model, and with a few extra dollars at an antique store or yard sale pick up a roller wringer, and you have a laundry set up that will be of service for years to come.

How do I power my off grid washing machine?

There are two options, electricity, or elbow grease. Several of the units we have highlighted make use of conventional 120V power, and a few are fully manual. 

Electric units can be powered via a generator, or they can run from a solar or wind-powered washing setup with a battery bank and a modestly priced inverter. With the price of solar systems and lithium batteries becoming much more affordable than even 5 years ago, it is easier than ever before to have steady and reliable power for conveniences like small washers.

The manual washers operate without electricity, and instead use good old fashioned elbow grease. Nearly all types of manual washers require a crank to tumble the clothes, or a plunging motion to forces the water through the clothes and to agitate them. Either way, they tend to move the clothes around more, so your wash cycles with manual units tend to be shorter but more effective.

What kind of soap or laundry detergent will I need for my off grid washing machine?

The great part about all of these units we have showcased, is that they can use anything from standard high efficiency detergent, to homemade dry detergent mixes, to old fashioned bar soap shavings.

One of the bonuses to simplifying your life and going off-grid is that things you use end up being simpler to use as well. These small off-grid washers are simple, yet effective enough, that they do not have the delicate electronics and sensors that can get gummed up by using the “wrong” laundry detergent.

These machines do not have a preference. They use simple motors and simple pumps, so no matter what kind of soap you feed them, they should still do an amazing job of cleaning your clothes without taking up an entire room or costing an arm and a leg.

What’s the difference between washers, wringers, and spinners?

Wringing and spinning are both ways to get the water out of your clothes when you are done washing them. You can find wringers and spinners that are electrically powered or manual, although if you’re reading this post, I assume you’re probably thinking about going off grid (or at least “grid minimal“).

radical drying shirt

Wringing your clothes sends them through 2 rollers that tightly squeeze almost all the water out.

On the other hand, spinners use centrifugal force to pull water out of clothes as they are quickly spun around. Exact same concept as a washing machine that spins around at the end of the cycle.

Depending on how elaborate of an off grid laundry system you have, a wringer or spinner might be attached somehow or part of your washing machine, or if you’re washing your clothes in a bucket, it might be the only contraption you actually have.

On the whole, spinners are usually a better option. They are faster and less effort, and they tend to squeeze more water out of your clothes. Instead of having to crank your clothes through, 1 by 1, you can do a bunch at one time, and then hang them up to dry.

The Bottom Line

When it comes down to it, there is no one right answer for any one particular scenario. If you have power and a little bit of extra space, the Panda PAN6320W is the biggest bang for your buck. You get the convenience of a powerful washer, in a small space, with enough bells and whistles to make the expense worth it.

On the other hand, if power or space is a rare commodity, or you just plan on living without much of either, like extended camping periods, or use on a boat deck, then the Wonder Wash or the Lavario are great options, with the Wonder Wash being easier to use and smaller, with the Lavario able to handle slightly bigger loads and wash a bit more effectively per load.

Filed Under: Off Grid

12 Lies That Preppers Tell About Bug Out Bags

March 6, 2024 by danecarp

REAL Bug Out Bags

By this time everybody has heard the term “bug out bag.” You know, the bag that holds all your supplies and gear for when the shit hits the fan (SHTF)?

You’ve probably also heard bug out bags called by any of their many synonyms too:

  • Bail out bag
  • Survival kit
  • 72-hour kit
  • Go bag
  • Go kit
  • GOOD bag (Get Out of Dodge)

But no matter what you call it, bug out bags have been the subject of a lot of talk in recent years. And unfortunately, due to the increasing number of marketers and manufacturers entering the space, there’s a cesspool of bad information too (that’s right, I said “cesspool”).

If you go to Google, a search for “bug out bag” or “survival kit” will usually yield you results that fall into 2 categories:

  1. Ecommerce stores selling prepackaged $100 kits (these always have photo studio images and lots of plastic
  2. Bloggers pimping high priced bug out backpacks (but not really talking much about what should go in them)

In each flavor, you’ll find the exact kind of bad information and “fakeness” that I’m talking about. Exorbitant prices, shock and fear tactics, generic stock images of products that might not exist, or from people that have never actually held them in their hands. In some cases, the fakeness is minor, but in others, we’re talking downright, wild-ass fiction.

So, in an effort to set the record straight, here are the most common, most untrue lies that are being told to you about bug out bags:

Lie #1: Your Bug Out Bag Needs to Sustain You “Off The Grid.”

As cool and fun as it seems, you’re not going to run up into mountains with your rifle and live in a tent with your family because a wildfire is getting close. You’ll be heading to your aunt Teresa’s house to spend a couple nights until it passes. You’re going to be sitting in traffic on a freeway. You’ll be at a hotel an hour and a half away.

Accordingly, your bug out bag doesn’t need to have snares and giant fixed-blade survival knives. It needs charging devices and cash. It needs backup documents, and prescription medication. In the same way that you shouldn’t bug out if you can “bug in”, you’re not going to run into the woods if you there’s a town an hour away that’s safe. Leave the woods for Red Dawn.

Lie #2: You Will Be Carrying Your Bug Out Bag On Foot

The truth is, if you’re in the United States, you will probably be bugging out in your car. How do I know? A little something called history.

Take a look at the majority of evacuations that have happened in the last few decades. Hurricanes Katrina and Sandy. The 2020 wildfires in the western states. Winter Nor’easters and Mt. St. Helens. The east coast power outage of 2003. And yes, even people fleeing riots and civil unrest. People aren’t running out their front door on foot. And neither will you. We’ll be in our cars, with our bug out bags sitting comfortably in the back.

Remember, cars can:

  • go further
  • shelter you from the elements
  • provide more comfort
  • double as accommodations for a few nights if needed

Lie #3: The Backpack is the Most Important Part of Your Bug Out Bag

What a load of marketing crap! There’s WAY too much attention and money going towards the backpack portion of your bug out bag.

Here is the honest truth–you should NOT have a nice, new, fancy backpack for your bug out bag. Why not? Because if you do, you’ll be tempted to use it for other stuff–hiking, camping, traveling, ski trips, and a hundred different things. And one of the most important tenets of a solid bug out bag is that it’s allowed to be left alone, and never “borrowed” from.

A bug out bag backpack doesn’t need to be uber-tactical, have lots of Molly webbing, D-rings, or dozens of fasteners. It doesn’t need to have a hydration bladder compartment, self healing YKK zippers, special back panels, tons of padding or suspension, or be made of some fancy ballistic nylon. It doesn’t need to be an assault pack, or something that sounds like it could beat you up. It honestly doesn’t even need to have the absolute perfect, down to the milimeter fit. 

The other reason it doesn’t need to be new and fancy is that a bug out bag is something that you will MAYBE use once every five to seven years for a few days–IF THAT.

It should be sturdy, and it should be comfortable enough to walk in, but likely not going to be hiking through the mountains for days on end. Also, you want to blend in and not call too much attention. Having a super tactical backpack that’s covered in camouflage or a lot of MOLLE webbing on the outside runs counter to that. 

Lie #4: Lots of Cheap Plastic Crap is Better Than a Few High Quality Items

If you’ve done a single search for “survival kit”, I guarantee you’ve seen ads for the the 192,000-piece bags full of Aqua Blox, tissues, an orange plastic container for matches with a “signal mirror” inside, a whistle on one end, and something that looks like a pencil lead, that’s supposed to be a fire starter.

These kits always make sure to have a nice ball of plastic rope and a tin foil sleeping bag for if it’s cold. You’ll get a few different sizes of cheap carabiners, a dynamo flashlight that gives 9 seconds of light for a minute and a half of cranking, a first aid kit with lots of latex gloves, a plastic rain poncho, a wad of plastic triage flags, and if you’re really lucky, you’ll get a 32-function Swiss Army knife knockoff.

Plastic, plastic, and more plastic. Cheap, cheap, and more cheap.

Yet people have bought these in droves for the last couple decades, because they offer the promise of being “prepared” (read: “done”) for $100 or less.

Far better to put together a kit with fewer, higher quality items that you actually know how to use.

Lie #5: Your Bug Out Bag Doesn’t Need to Have a Change of Clothes

Spoiler: it does.

Protection from the elements is critical, and your clothing is your first line of defense. Anybody that’s heard of the rule of 3’s, knows that exposure to the elements can kill you faster than dehydration or famine (3 hours, 3 days, and 3 weeks respectively). If your clothing gets wet or ripped, or if you need another layer to keep warm, it’s not something you should be without.

And perhaps even more important, you need to have a sturdy pair of shoes. If the moment comes to grab your bug out bag and go, and you happen to be wearing sandals or high heels, you could be in a world of hurt. Rather than being stuck with them for the next week, wouldn’t it be a life-saver if you had a comfortable pair in your pack?

Yet again and again, you see posts on the internet without a single word mentioned of extra clothing or shoes.

Lie #6: Hygiene and Sanitation are Second-Tier Considerations in Your Bug Out Bag

In most bug out bag chatter, there is very little (if any) mention of hygiene and sanitation.

But the truth is, soap, wipes, hand sanitizer, toothbrushes and fresh socks and undies can mean the difference between sick and healthy, and they make a GIANT difference in how you feel. Toilet paper, butt wipes, and a sanitary means of taking a dump and disposing of it, are likewise, HUGELY important (hint: plastic bags are a good place to start).

The COVID-19 pandemic has got people thinking (overreacting) a bit about sanitation, but it’s still a fairly pronounced blind spot in most bug out bags.

The straight truth is that human beings are animals covered in bacteria. Some of it doesn’t hurt anything, some of it smells like hell, and some of it can be downright dangerous. But managing sanitation is a big ingredient to staying alive. Over the history of the world, many more people have died from infection than wars or accidents (on that note, if you are looking for antibiotics you can stock up, fish antibiotics make a perfect substitute–no lie).

And can I just re-emphasize 1 more time… WIPES. Such a simple, and life changing thing. Rather than have to get to water or use some of the water you’re carrying, get clean with a wipe that you can use and get rid of.

Lie #7: A Tin Foil Emergency Blanket in Your Bug Out Bag is Good Enough

Without exception, every pre-packaged survival kit on the market will include some version of a reflective emergency blanket. You know, those single use things that crinkle like crazy when you unfold them?

These things are pure junk. I know because I’ve slept in them multiple times And if you have slept in one too, you’re nodding your head right now.

What’s not to like? Let me count the ways:

  • they’re not warm
  • they’re not comfortable
  • they don’t breathe (so you get a layer of condensation all over the inside)
  • they snag and rip easily

If you haven’t ever slept in one of these things, it can be really easy to pass over it with a broad brush stroke, and think that it “checks the box” for your emergency sleeping solution. But it doesn’t.

Manufacturers and others will agree that these aren’t perfect, but they’ll explain that for a stopgap, “just keep you alive” situation, it’s a good solution. For many things in your bug out kit, this is a true, valid way of thinking. But not for sleeping.

You need something real and substantial for sleeping–either a sleeping bag that you can dedicate to your BOB, or a couple of warm blankets. Yes, it will cost more. And yes, it will take up more space in your pack. But when you’re tired, freezing and shaky, it will give you a truly comfortable “safe place”, where you can shelter for the night and regroup. And a space blanket will not.

Note: I mentioned that I’ve spent multiple nights in these things, which is true. What I didn’t say however, was that 3 of the times I slept in these reflective emergency sleeping bags I was in San Diego. I was freezing, shivering, and barely slept. If you’re in Michigan in the winter you’re really screwed!

Lie #8: You’ll Be Bugging Out Because of a War or Societal Collapse

Sensationalists love to talk about the fighting, the riots, the “us against them” parts of survival, and bugging out is no exception. In these scenarios, it’s you and your bug out bag against the bad guys.

As you move swiftly through the city, you have to make sure that your “grey man” disguise goes undetected, or the bad guys will get you. You’ll have your primary firearm, your sidearm, and body armor, so that when it’s time to start face shooting each other, you’re not going down.

After the director yells “Cut!” however, here’s the reality: you’ll be bugging out because of a storm, fire, or flood. Look at history–these are the emergencies that people leave their homes for. And this is what your bug out bag should be packed for.

Lie #9: Important Documents Are Second-Tier Considerations in Your Bug Out Bag

If you are trying to prepare yourself for emergencies and live more self-sufficiently, you will likely have come across people talking about their “emergency binder.” The concept is simple: combine all the most important information in your life in one place. This includes phone numbers, medical information, insurance information, etc.

Some people choose to include copies of actual certificates, licenses, and titles as well. Think birth certificates, marriage certificates, passports, vehicle titles and more.

Having access to critical information ensures that if your life does get wildly disrupted in an emergency, you can more quickly and easily pick up the pieces afterwards.

  • Need to file an insurance claim after your house gets ruined by a flood or burns down in a fire? Your insurance information is right there.
  • Need to prove that everybody in your vehicle is your family? No problem–you have your birth certificates and IDs.
  • Need to get a prescription filled? You have it with you at all times.

There is a some dispute about exactly how much sensitive information to include in something like this, because it could potentially fall into the wrong hands.

I actually recommend that people store scanned images of this information on an encrypted USB drive on their keychain. If you really want to go above and beyond, you can opt to add a small external hard drive to your bug out bag, with both emergency info, survivalist handbooks, and photos you want to make sure not to lose. Although in an emergency where you don’t have access to a computer or electricity, USB drives and hard drives become unusable.

Regardless of how many documents you choose to include or in what form, make SURE to include emergency information as part of your bug out bag. This is something that almost nobody in the hardcore bug out bag is talking about, but critically important.

Lie #10: It Doesn’t Matter if Your Pack is Small

When you’re scanning the internet, frequently you’ll see smaller style backpacks being used as a bug out bag. If you want to do your bug out bag for real though, these are a bad choice.

With a quick reference to Lies #5 and #7 above, you’ll remember that your bug out bag needs to hold a change of clothing and a sleeping bag or blankets. On their own, these take up a fair amount of space. But then if you add in a first aid kit, water, any kind of tools, and everything else, you’re out of space in a hurry.

Remember that as you’re getting ready to leave your house, you’ll probably be grabbing your laptop, charging cables, a hard drive, perhaps some important mail or documents, your camera, stuff for the dog, and any other valuables or last minute odds and ends.

Like I mentioned earlier, you will almost certainly be bugging out in your car, so it is possible to throw boxes or loose stuff in the back, but if you have the space in your pack, you will definitely use it.

Ever see a homeless person with a tiny little purse? Granted, this is a different situation, but you get the point.

Lie #11: It’s OK To Use Your Bug Out Bag Gear for Camping

To be fair, I’m not sure if anybody is actually preaching this from the pulpit, but it’s something that happens all too frequently.

You’re headed out for a camping trip, but you need a flashlight, so you go get the one from your bug out bag. Or a sleeping bag. Or lighters, Or any of 100 different things that are earmarked as ‘survival gear‘ and put in your bug out bag.

Then, you forget to return it when you get back. Or it gets broken or lost. Or you put it on the ground right next to the bag, but you don’t actually put it in. Or you eat the Mountain House meals you had in your kit, and don’t replenish it with anything new.

There are lots of different scenarios where this kind of thing is happening, but the upshot is, it undermines your bug out bag.

Your bug out bag is sacrosanct. Let it live untouched except for emergencies. That’s why it’s a bad idea to get a bunch of new gear or a shiny new pack to use for it. You’ll be too tempted to use it in other situations.

The solution?

Get nicer, nicer camping gear, and buy older or less-expensive stuff for your survival kit. This is why I recommend getting used stuff so much. With a little diligence, you can find deals on Facebook Marketplace or Craigslist, for high-quality stuff that still has plenty of life in it.

Lie #12: You’ll Be Living Out of Your Bug Out Bag, Like It’s Your Suitcase

One of the common misbeliefs is that during a disaster, you’re going to be living out of your backpack like you would a suitcase.

In reality however, think about your survival kit more as a grab bag of things you may need to use once, rather than a suitcase you’ll be continuously living out of during some period known as “survival.” There’s not really a survival time period, with a start and finish. Things happen little by little (either fast or slow), but not all at once.

And in the same way that we’re not going to be running around in the woods shooting wild animals when there’s grocery stores the next town over, we’re not going to all of a sudden be relegated to only the supplies in our kits.

Like lots of other prepper fallacies, this is predicated on worst-case, ‘all or nothing’ scenario. But in reality, it’s not as much about the complete breakdown of society, as it is needing to retreat elsewhere for a few days.

Maybe you’re riding out a storm in a local shelter or church. You don’t really need to build a cookfire or use a flashlight because they already have food and electricity for you. But having your own sleeping bag or blankets is super handy. Boom–bug out bag.

Don’t get married to the idea that you’re going to use your pack like you do when you’re camping or backpacking. If you end up using 3 or 4 things out of your bug out bag, awesome.

FAQs

To go along with the words of wisdom above, here are a handful of related considerations and frequently asked questions that are important to keep in mind:

Is it better to create my own bug out bag, or buy a preassembled one?

Create your own. Less money, higher quality stuff, more personalized to your needs, more beneficial planning and thought process while you’re putting it together.

Where should I bug out to?

Great question. Lots of survivalists talk about having a “bug out location” (“BOL”), usually some off grid cabin in the middle of nowhere, that they plan to go to if things get bad. Most of us will never do that though.

What I recommend is that you set up a reciprocal agreement with a couple friends and family members that will let you and your family come stay for a few days or weeks if needed. In turn, if they need to bug out of their home, they have permission to come crash at your place.

If you go this route, I recommend that you:

  • Choose somebody that is 2-5 hours away. This puts their location far enough away from you that you probably won’t be experiencing the same regional threats at the same time.
  • Actually call or email these people and make it official. There are a lot of offers thrown around in loose terms during the good times, but things can change quickly when an emergency hits. Even a well-meaning friend might turn you down if you wait to ask about coming to stay until something cataclysmic happens. It might be that he’s had 4 other similar phone calls from relatives or friends, and doesn’t have the space to put you up.

I still don’t think I know enough to get going–Where can I got to research this more?

If you think back over your life, there are people that you know that are “analyzers.” They read specs and how-to manuals, ask a lot of questions, compare, watch YouTube videos, and learn a lot, but do little.

On the other hand, you’ll find people that excel at their “thing” but are missing some of the terminology, or don’t know the full history. But while the analyzers are on the sidelines, they are taking action, having fun, and getting better much faster than the analyzers.

When it comes to your bug out kit–don’t be a perennial researcher. Manufacturers and affiliate marketers make money on specs, and product models, and comparing, so it’s in their interest to dive into the weeds and make a big deal out of things that don’t need to be.

Get started with what you know first, and keep sourcing ideas along the way.

Owning Does Not Equal Becoming

In truth, a lot of the most unrealistic things about bug out bags reflect similarly unrealistic ideas and attitudes about what survival situations will be like in general.

One of the most seductive and false beliefs that people latch onto in life is the idea that owning something equals becoming something.

But buying a gym membership does not make you fit. Buying a guitar does not make you a guitarist, and buying a bug out bag does not make you prepared for emergencies.

A solid bug out bag is about 65% thought and time, and probably only 35% gear and products. So if you really want to become prepared, you can’t shortcut it by swiping your credit card once and then getting on with life. Spend the time, think it through, and enjoy the feeling that comes from honestly accounting with yourself and knowing that you’ve done what you can.

Filed Under: Survival Kits

Best Survival Food Companies

March 5, 2024 by danecarp

Best Survival Food Companies

*Short Story: If you just want to buy the absolute best value and quality food storage for your family of 4 people and be done with it, get the Auguson Farms 1 Year of Food Storage for 4 People.

For folks that are in a position to buy commercially manufactured survival food, there are a handful of solid options available. However, commercial, pre-packaged food is more expensive. These products are made to be shelf-stable for several years, and even decades in some cases. 

Plus, let’s be honest, there are a lot of marketing dollars that pump the prices.

First, figure out how much food you’re getting for your money

One of the most confusing aspects of buying long term food from a manufacturer is trying to figure out how much you’re actually going to to get. Why? Because companies all use different measurements in their marketing and product descriptions, like “meals”, “servings”, “entrees”, and “pouches.”  These can be subjective and hard to gauge. 

To cut through some of the fog, we recommend people take a look at the actual calories they’re buying. This is an objective benchmark, that isn’t really up for debate or interpretation. We also like to take a look at the “cost per 2,000 calories.” This is simply because some packages are bigger than others. It might actually end up being a better deal to buy 2 or 3 of a smaller package, rather than 1 bigger package.

To help you take a quick glance at some of the more popular 1-year supply of food, we put together this handy chart:

CompanyPriceTotal CaloriesCost Per 2,000
Calories
 
Augason Farms$3,499.991,932,950$3.62See Complete Details
E Foods Direct$2,887.00720,480$8.01See Complete Details
Saratoga Farms$2,713.05735,243$7.38See Complete Details
Survival Cave Food$6,818.001,387,920$9.82See Complete Details
Wise$4,405.781,059,840$8.31See Complete Details
Legacy$8,790.001,698,720$10.35See Complete Details
Lindon Farms$3,899.00730,000$10.68See Complete Details
My Food Storage$8,163.991,590,620$10.27See Complete Details
Emergency Essentials$5,999.95679,530$17.66See Complete Details
Valley Food Storage$2,209.00299,665$14.74See Complete Details
Daily Bread$6,103.20720,672$16.94See Complete Details
Backpacker’s Pantry$47,080.002,467,860$38.15See Complete Details
Mountain House$4,999.99724,890$13.80See Complete Details

*prices last checked in May 2019

Mountain House Freeze Dried Food

1. Mountain House

Mountain House is the grandpa of the bunch. Started in 1969, they have the distinction of being the pioneer in the freeze-dried food game. Their food pouches were originally created for outdoor enthusiasts, that needed easy and nutritious meals in the wild.

Over time, Mountain House has added a variety of different prepper and emergency foods, conveniently offered in different sized packages. They have 2-day food supplies, all the way up to 14-day food supplies. They also sell emergency food storage kits, which have the advantage of being slightly more portable.

One of the greatest things about Mountain House is the taste. People always comment how surprised they are that the food just tastes exactly like anything else you would buy at the store (or better!). Overall, Mountain House is one of the most-respected, well-liked food storage companies, and an excellent choice for your food supply.

Check The Lowest Price on Mountain House Here


Auguson Farms Foods

2. Augason Farms

Augason Farms is best known for its #10 cans of individual food storage items (such as apples, bananas, or scrambled eggs). In addition to these however, they also offer complete entree meals, and month long buckets as well.

The Augason Farms packaging is usually in larger serving sizes (i.e. a 7-serving bag of macaroni), instead of a more individually-sized pouch. Because of this, it’s better suited to preparation at home in a kitchen, than in the wilderness.

While people aren’t necessarily over the moon about Augason, they generally have positive things to say about the taste and value. Whereas other companies may use “servings”, or number of days as a measurement, Augason’s “total calories included” is a very transparent and much-appreciated way to quantify exactly how much food you are getting.

Check the Lowest Price on Augason Farms Here


Wise Food Storage

3. Wise Food Storage

Though not quite as old school and original as Mountain House, Wise Food Storage broke onto the scene fairly early as well. In contrast to Mountain House however, Wise was created from the beginning with the prepper in mind.

They developed their food to be shelf stable for an incredibly long time (we’re talking 25-year emergency food supply). They also have a handful of entrees that are 100% vegetarian, so it’s great for those that might have specific diet requirements (always check ingredients list to be sure).

One thing to keep in mind with Wise Foods is that the actual pouches contain 4 servings. This is great if you will be sharing each meal with other people, but if you are alone, and want to really make your food last, it will mean that you need to store and re-(h)eat later. If you are at home, no big deal, but if you happen to be on the go, this could be a little tougher. This can also be a little misleading to some people when they are trying to figure out exactly what they are getting. What is advertised as “60 Servings”, actually shows up in 15 pouches.

We also don’t seem to hear quite as many glowing reviews about the taste of Wise Food Storage. Some people complain about it, and others say it’s just “ok.”

Even in light of these considerations, Wise is still a reputable company with great selection, and they offer lots of different configurations of food types in the buckets your buy.

Check the Lowest Price on Wise Food Storage Here


Valley Food Storage

4. Valley Food Storage

More than perhaps any other food storage company on the market today, Valley Food Storage bills themselves as the “healthy” food storage option. They make a really concerted effort to not use any “unhealthy preservatives”, MSG, and a bunch of other cheap filler industrio-food.

Some people may not actually care about whether or not their survival food had MSG in it or not, but for those that do, this effort is applaudable.

Like most of the other companies, they offer several different sized bundles and configurations (1, 3, 6, and 12 month options for long term food storage), and a handful of shorter time-period options as well.

Satisfaction guarantee, customer service, and an overall good track record.

Check the Lowest Price on Valley Food Storage Here


Thrive Life Foods

5. Thrive

Thrive Life is another brand that you’ve likely heard of, if you’ve spent any time researching prepper food. Thrive is known for its #10 cans of freeze-dried ingredients–fruits, vegetables, grains, meats, sauces, and more. You name it, and they have it.

Many people don’t realize about Thrive is that their company actually used to be called Shelf Reliance, and their flagship product was industrial strength rotating food storage shelves. They got into the food storage game shortly thereafter, and their food has been a huge success.

One thing that’s a little bit unique to Thrive is that they actually have a bit of a “network marketing” (or MLM) model for selling their food. Yes, you can buy it on Amazon or elsewhere, but you can also sign up to be a distributor and sell it yourself if you’d like to. Most folks are ok just eating the food, but hey, if it’s your gig–knock yourself out.

Check the Lowest Price on Thrive Life Food


Legacy Foods

6. Legacy Emergency Food

A relative newcomer to the survival food scene, Legacy totes themselves as the “lowest cost per pound” food storage provider. They figure this by calculating the total cost (including shipping), then divide by the total pounds. Per their graphics, they also claim to be the lowest per calorie.

Legacy Long Term Freeze Dried Emergency Food
Although we have them stored on top of cupboards in our laundry room, Legacy buckets feature molded plastic grooves along the bottom, so you can easily store them stacked if you would like.

Much like the other companies, in Legacy’s food buckets, they offer several different entrees, breakfast meals, snacks, drinks, and more. Compared to many food storage companies our there, people love the larger portion sizes. Legacy maintains a consistently high rating on Amazon (4.4/5 at the time of writing).

As a great tasting, modestly priced food storage, Legacy offers some tremendous value.

Check the Lowest Price on Legacy Emergency Food


 

You Want Some Free Emergency Food Samples?

If you’re on the fence about which survival food you should purchase, several companies will send you out a free sample of their freeze dried food (although you usually have to cover shipping). This is a cool option, because obviously, it can be expensive to buy weeks or months of your food supply, only to learn later that you hate it.

Date before you marry right?

Your best bet for scoring a free emergency food sample is to hit up the actual company (not Amazon or a retailer), although when it comes time to purchase your survival food, usually Amazon has the best price. Simply go to their website, look for the contact page, and ask them if they can send you a sample. More often than not, if they offer free samples, you will see it advertised plainly on their home page or in the website menu.

Here’s a quick list of some of the food storage companies that offer free samples, and the pages where you can request a sample:

  • Augason free sample
  • Wise Food free sample
  • Valley Food Storage free sample
  • Daily Bread free sample
  • My Food Storage free sample
  • Survival Cave Food free sample
  • Harvest Right free sample

Survival Food Storage FAQ

How Much is A Year’s Worth of Food?

One of the best “calorie for the dollar” food storage companies is Auguson Farms. For a family of 4 people, a year’s worth of emergency food would cost $5,250 (at 2,000 calories per person, per day). This amount is obviously very general, and the calorie amount of food needed for your family would be different if you had small children vs. 4 adults. 

How much rice do I need for a year supply?

Rice is one of the better foods to store because of its low cost and long shelf life. Families should store at least 300 pounds of grains per person, of which 25-60 pounds should be rice. This provides a solid staple food store that can be built around.

How much does freeze dried food cost?

Because of the intense processing it undergoes, freeze dried food is sold at a premium price, with prices ranging from $3-17 per 2,000 calories (one food storage company actually sells their food at a price of $38 per 2,000 calories!).

How do you store food for a disaster?

Emergency food storage should be “shelf stable” for the long term (many manufacturers will claim to be a 25-year emergency food supply). It is best stored in air-tight, water-tight containers in cool, dark places. Some of the most effective and convenient ways to store bulk staples (such as rice, pasta, and other grains) are in sealed #10 cans, or plastic 5-gallon buckets. The amount of light and heat in the storage area has a direct relationship to the time it takes for food stores to break down and/or spoil.

Filed Under: Food Storage

How I Got Gasoline After Hurricane Katrina [disclaimer: not 100% legal]

March 4, 2024 by Seasoned Citizen Prepper

I was advised by my boss to report to work on the Sunday before Hurricane Katrina hit New Orleans. I did not leave work until the Tuesday after Hurricane Katrina hit. However, I was then required to work 12 hour shifts daily for the next month.

I lived in the suburbs of New Orleans but worked in the central business district. I had to travel approximately 18 miles, one way to work, then 12 hours later, return home. There was NO electricity and everyone had evacuated. Since no gas stations were open, I was running very low on gas in my truck after only a few days with NO way of obtaining more gas by conventional means.

As I was leaving my residence one day, I noticed that most people in my neighborhood had taken only one of their vehicles when they evacuated and left another one or two vehicles in their driveway.

Since I knew most of the people that lived on my half of the block, I siphoned gas from my neighbor’s vehicles that had evacuated their residence.

I siphoned the gas into five (5) gallon gas cans. I wrote I.O.U.s, with the amount of gas I had siphoned from their vehicle along with my name, address and phone number. I placed the I.O.U. in a zip lock food storage bag and placed them under the windshield wiper of the vehicle I took the gas from. I then poured the gasoline from the five (5) gallon gas cans into my truck.

One day I observed a City Police Officer and advised him of what I had been doing to obtain gasoline for my truck. He advised me that he did not see a problem if I had left an IOU and intended to replace the gasoline.

As gas stations started to open in the area, I purchased gas and placed it in my five (5) gallon gas cans. I replaced all of the gas that I had borrowed before any of my neighbors’ returned home. As I replaced the gas, I recovered the IOUs that I had left on their windshields.

When my neighbors returned home, I told each one of them what I had done and why. I spoke to my neighbors because I did not want to take the chance that someone had witnessed me taking the gas and might tell my neighbors that I had stolen from them.

Everyone that I had spoken to told me that it was a smart thing to do. Also, they told me that they did not mind as long as I had replaced the gas in their cars.

Filed Under: Disasters

Technology and Home Defense

March 4, 2024 by Seasoned Citizen Prepper

Let’s go into defending your home turf, if everything goes bad. There’s no doubt that there will be those that will want to take what you have. How that will happen, will depend very much on the situation. You can bet that the first confrontation will be an attempt to see if you are easy pickings. After that, things will likely get tougher. What goes bump in the night could be deadly!

Home Security Transmitter Alarms for the Perimeter

Placing coils of barb wire around your perimeter is a very good low tech solution. On the high tech side, there are government surplus seismic sensors (TRC-3a) that can be placed up to a half mile away, and signal you of any ground vibrations such as people walking, or vehicles (On their highest settings they will pick up raindrops, thunder, small animals, and even breeze blowing in the trees! So there is a potential for false alarms if they are not set correctly).

Each set has four transmitters and a receiver. There are different set frequencies available as well. Each of the four transmitters emits a series of beeps dependent on which transmitter it is. Each transmitter has a probe that is placed in the ground to pick up vibrations, and has raised bumps like Braille that show how many beeps it transmits.

The antenna on the transmitters is made to look like a blade of grass, and they are waterproof too. From time to time you can find them for sale on Ebay, as a set, or sometimes individual units. For a receiver, an airplane frequency radio will work, or a programmable scanner.

The drawback is that these require 9 volt batteries, but they do last for a very long time in the units.

Night Vision for Home Security

Night Vision will also give you a definite edge. In today’s world it is becoming more commonplace, so one almost needs it to stay even with what your adversary might have! Lots of stuff came back from Iraq and Afghanistan with the returning troops.

The generation 1 stuff is lower priced, but not a good choice, as you only see part of what’s out there in the dark. If you’re thinking of buying night vision, save your money until you can afford generation 2 or 3 units. You’ll be glad you did!

The ultimate for detecting intruders, in my opinion, is a thermal viewer or scope. They are pricey, but worth the cost. It’s hard to hide from them, but it can be done. For example they can’t see through glass or walls. The government likely has ones that will, but what you can buy won’t. If there’s something around that’s live, it will glow like a ghost. Having one on a rifle stacks the deck big time in your favor!

All of the high tech stuff does require batteries, so a good supply of them would be a must. Rechargeable and a way to charge them (solar?) is also something to consider.

I know that these are pricey solutions, but each person must decide on what they can afford for assurance and well being. There are low tech solutions that will likely work to a degree, but I prefer to stack the deck in my favor, whenever I can!

Filed Under: Security

6 Steps to Stockpiling Medicine and Prescriptions

March 4, 2024 by Seasoned Citizen Prepper

So you are a “Prepper”. You have stockpiled water, food, firearms, ammunition, silver, gold, emergency medical supplies and whatever else that you want, for whatever time period you deemed necessary, 3 months, 6 months a year, more.

However, if you are like most “Preppers”, you never have enough of everything you think you will need. But have you forgotten something that will limit how long you will live in a teotwawki situation.

There is an saying amongst “Preppers”. You can live for 3 minutes without air, 3 days without water and three weeks without food. So what if more important than food and water? What about your daily prescription medicines?

After Hurricane Katrina, there were NO pharmacies open that I could find, in the New Orleans metro area for three (3) months. After any national disaster, how long would it take for the pharmaceutical companies to start to make the drugs that you take? Then they would have to be transported to the pharmacies so you could buy them. Could they even make all of the different medications that you take? Which medications would they make first? Would the government decide where and who gets those drugs first?

You can be the most prepared “Prepper” in the world but if you have a major medical condition such as Diabetes, a Heart Condition, Epilepsy, etc. and have not stockpiled your vital medicines that you need to take on a daily basis, you will only live as long as you have you medicines.

So, you spend a lot of money on other items so that you can survive whatever disaster you are planning for but you do not want to spend $300 or $400 for an extra bottle of medication that you need to keep you living. You had better rethink your strategy.

There is no reason to have a 6 months’ supply of water, food, weapons and ammo but only have a month or two of medication you need to take on a daily basis. Why? If you die or become none functional from not having all of the medications that you need to take on a daily basis, what is the use in having water, food, etc. for longer than the amount of medications you have.

In addition, you then become a liability on the persons in your family or group that now have to take care of you or no longer have you to help them.

First, make a list of all of the medicines that you take on a daily basis.

Second, go talk to the pharmacist that fills your prescriptions.  Determine how much each prescription will cost you if you buy them without using your medical insurance. If you cannot afford to purchase a full months’ worth of medication that you need, ask the pharmacist if you can fill a partial prescription? Can you buy a weeks’ worth of your medicine instead of a full months’ worth?

Third, if you do buy partial prescriptions, as you buy them, keep them in the bottles with the labels that they came with. Most pharmacies print the expiration date on the bottles label. This is important. I have been told that some prescriptions can be toxic after their expiration dates.

Fourth, make a large zip lock bag up and as you buy your medicines, place one (1) months’ supply of you medications in that zip lock bag. When you have a full months’ worth of medications that you take, label the bag with the month and year that you purchased them in. I use a Sharpe’. As you start to obtain multiple months of your medications, place the bags in a small box.

Fifth, keep you surplus medications in a dark and cool place. Heat decreases the amount of time your medicine is good.

Sixth, be sure that you rotate them and use those stored medications well before their expiration dates.

Finally, remember that in a pinch, you may be able to use alternatives like Fish Mox or other fish antibiotics in place of prescription antibiotics that you might normally need.

Filed Under: Health and Medical

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