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Shaping Up for Preparedness: Using 5K Races

March 8, 2024 by Seasoned Citizen Prepper

I’m fat, but I was fatter. Bug out? – yea right, I doubt I could have walked one mile with a bug out bag. Bug in? OK, but I’m not sure I could haul water from the basement to the living quarters.

I’m still not where I want to be with my weight, endurance and mental toughness, but I’m getting better each week.  Check this out:

March – purchased a garage-sale treadmill.  15 minutes at 2MPH was the best I could do on my first walk. Went shopping for new tennis shoes.  Shopping is fun!

April – I walked (scratch that, I strolled) my first public 5K walk/run race.  That’s a little over 3 miles.  My goal was to finish and I did but I came in last – and I do mean dead last.  They had already torn down the finish line by the time I got there. I soaked in the tub for an hour when I got home and went to bed two hours earlier than normal.

There was a sign at the half-way mark that I will never forget. It said:

Did-not-win is still better than did-not-finish. Did-not-finish is still better than did-not-show-up. You’re already a winner.

May – Put myself on a self-directed program of walking in preparation for the next 5K.  I got online and found all of the 5Ks in my area and scheduled myself for a race every-other month.  Found a walking partner to train/practice/play with.  She was a big help in getting my butt on the treadmill regularly. My motto became, “if I’m watching TV, I’m doing it from the treadmill.”

June 5K – My goal was only NOT to be in last place. I averaged 20-minute miles so the whole thing took about one hour.  New mothers pushing baby strollers whizzed past me early on the course but I finished 100 from last. I got to experience the finish line, the announcers over the P.A. and the loud music.  What a rush!  I had enough energy remaining, I went back to walk with the last-place girl. I could tell she was struggling and I wanted to support her. It made me feel strong.

August 5K – My goal was to carry a 20 lb backpack.  I filled it with small water bottles and shared water towards the end.  It’s hot in August in KY and it was more of an endurance test in discomfort than anything else. It was a large race with a mob of 5,000 participants. It was at night but it was still 98-degrees and 98 percent humidity. Night put a whole new perspective on things, I started to think about what it would really be like to bug out at night.  This freaked me out. It seemed so real being around so many strangers, at night, and carrying the backpack.  I really scared myself.  Must work on mental discipline.  Finished 400 from last but moms pushing strollers still past me. Dang it!

I couldn’t find a good race for October so my next is September 23.  Close enough. Most 5Ks have courses on level pavement.  This one is through the woods, in the mud, and with obstacles.  It’s shear physical punishment and mental toughness. As it turns out, this is very popular with the extreme sports people.   It’s not a Tough Mudder, (look for YouTube videos if you are not familiar) it’s more of a mini-muddy for fat, middle aged women but it will push me a little further outside of my comfort zone.  Ahhh, over the hills and thru the mud – I think my goal is back to “just finish.”  Wish me luck!

For me, the concept of using the 5K was motivation to train with a goal date attached.  In my area there is a 5K almost every weekend.   Committing to completing a set of 5Ks put me in a position of thinking, and strategizing how I want to change my training to improve for the next one – something that I hope will have lasting overall general health benefits.  I have a new set of “friends” now, the perennials near my walking speed, that I nod and smile to.  People with familiar faces that I can walk up to and say, “How did you do?”  or “Which race are you doing next?”  It’s nice to have peeps to inspire each other to keep going when the finish line feels too far away.

If getting into shape is part of your preparedness plan then lace up the Nike’s and get out there.  Most cost between $20 and $50 to enter.  Most are fund-raisers for good causes.  You usually get a T-Shirt.  You could get muddy. You will feel good about doing it. Yes, there are the hard-core racers, running for a trophy but never mind them.  Toward the rear of the crowd – where you’ll find me – you’ll find comfort in a large group of middle-aged, recovering couch-potatoes doing something fun and healthy.  Just show up and you’re a winner.

See ya at the finish line.

Filed Under: Health and Medical

What’s The Best SHTF Gun for Preppers?

March 8, 2024 by Seasoned Citizen Prepper

SHTF Gun

I’ve been spending a lot of time at my BOL  thinking about a one-gun solution for defending the family in time of SHTF. After much discussion with my survival family and colleagues, we collectively concluded that there is no such thing as a one-gun solution to address the plethora of variations of circumstances involved in a SHTF scenario.

Because times are tough and getting tougher, I decided that I would attempt to create a simple, cheap, and versatile weapon system, consisting of just one gun. The accompanying photos should give you an idea of what I have put together in hopes that many will see the attributes and limitations to this problem.

Let’s be clear. I don’t have all the answers. But I do have a background that that should legitimize my conclusions. So, just consider these words from a guy that wants to share an idea, based on a lifetime of firearms use, study and instructing.

You’ll immediately see that I have chosen a shotgun for my “one-gun option” or (OGO). The gun is a 12 gauge Mossberg/Maverick HS-12 , over/under, 18.5 inch improved cylinder barrel chokes(size of opening at end of barrel or “muzzle”). The gun is equipped with two picatinny rails, one fixed under the bottom barrel and the other on the top rear of the receiver. This is a clever rail on the receiver. The rail is cut thru with a “V”, allowing a sighted picture thru the rail to the front sight, which is  fiber optic, thereby creating a very bright, clear, accurate sight picture!

My general premise here is that a shotgun is the most versatile type of firearm produced. Let me tell you why:

  • a wide range and type of ammo available to shotguns make it capable of taking game from birds/rabbits/squirrels(with birdshot), to coyotes/2-4 legged(buckshot), to larger mammals as elk/ moose/bear (slugs, either solid or hollow point). (author’s note- I once killed a Corvette with a shotgun using a slug. What a surprise to the driver dirtbag and unfortunate for the owner).
  • ease of use- simple design, break open action, slide safety, manually activated triggers
  • shotguns can be used as less than lethal devices (bean bag or rubber rounds)
  • less expensive than assault rifles and many handguns.
  • reliability+
  • ammo available in every store and every farmhouse
  • accuracy is very good to excellent with sabot slugs
  • extreme foot pounds of energy at close distance and with slugs at distance
  • most terminal firearm made- some restrictions (I know, how terminal does a firearm need to be)
  • can launch line, signal device, fire starter, club, water portage!

Now for building this gun, I enhanced it considering my thoughts for its use as a SHTF weapon:

I immediately test fired the gun for reliability, accuracy (where it printed with shot and slugs). Then, I applied camo colors using wide shoelaces to break up the paint and outline. A 200 lumen tac light was attached to the forward rail. I felt this gun should remain simple and effective.

The light gives the operator surprise to the target and a very quick sight picture for same. A side saddle type of ammo carrier was affixed the the stock (L or R side) for backup reloading and as important, the ammo is a mix of #4 buck, 00 buck and slugs. The gun is rugged and reliable.

A sling could be attached easily but is not necessary on this 6.5 pound weapon. The butt stock is hollow reducing weight and allowing for emergency storage.

You could even put a bayonet on the muzzle using the fixed bottom rail! You might note from the photo that I keep two rounds secured by rubber band at the muzzle end of the barrels. Those two rounds are bird shot that I keep for quail egg eating crows in the area.

All in all–the gun is fast to action, easy to lash down, safe, simple and powerful.

Filed Under: Firearms

Why I Like My Sentinel Gun Cabinet

March 8, 2024 by Seasoned Citizen Prepper

I personally like to see my guns. On my old homestead I had built a custom gun storage cabinet with glass doors into the wall of the living room. I backed it with a tanned, hair-on deer hide and stacked the rifles, shotguns, and pistols against the hide in a beautiful display. Below it, with knotty pine doors, was my storage of extra ammo, best gun belt, gun cleaning kit and supplies. It kept the dust off my guns and was a beautiful display.

But my home burned, so…

This home just doesn’t lend itself to my favorite Lodge decorating style. And there is just no room for anything, it is so small. In fact, where I have the gun cabinet in the closet tucked under the stairs was the master closet when I moved in!

Life is all about change, so I made the master bedroom (Which would only hold a full sized bed pushed up against one wall.) into a combination bathroom and closet. It wasn’t even big enough to do a separate bathroom and closet! And since I needed storage for my guns, I started looking for something that would work.

Sentinel Gun Cabinet in Closet

As you can see from the picture, I needed a gun cabinet that was short and small, that would fit under a closet rod. I don’t have an arsenal. I own guns for hunting and homestead use. All I needed was storage for a couple of shotguns, a .22, and a couple of handguns. I found this Sentinel gun cabinet for under $70 on sale that stands 52” tall and holds 10 or 12 guns. And it locks!

It was lightweight enough for me to haul into the house myself. The only assembly was the inside shelf and sticky thingy’s for gun rests. It has predrilled holes for attaching it with screws to the floor and walls, but it recommended drilling holes to hit studs. I was sorely disappointed with my walls and floor in that closet. NO studs found! And when I drilled into the floor which I assumed was ¾ inch flooring—practically nothing! But what is there keeps it from tipping over. The fault is the house, not the cabinet!

Securely attached, it would keep 300 lb. Bubba at bay for 5 to 10 minutes. The door is tight enough to make it difficult to get a pry bar into it and the lock is surprisingly sturdy! For $70, I’m impressed! And it looks nice, always important to a woman!

Open Sentinel Gun Cabinet in Closet

Here it is opened and loaded. Note the foam rests for the guns to keep them upright and the foam on the bottom. Very nice for the money. Then there is the top shelf where I will put the handguns. It is big enough where I can stack my ammo cans in it too!

There is enough room left on top where I can hang my safety glasses and ear protection for the gun range above it and store pistol cases and on it. This is all I need. It is someplace to store my guns, with a lock to keep the grandkids out, and adequate storage where I can keep everything together in one place for grab and go convenience. And it is in our main level “safe room” the master bath.

This is not a gun safe! It did not take two men to haul it into the house and set it up. It is not fireproof. And it didn’t cost an entire month’s social security check! But it is perfect for homestead storage of essential firearms.

Filed Under: Firearms

DIY Masonry Heaters [pictures and diagrams]

March 8, 2024 by Seasoned Citizen Prepper

The heart of a homestead is the hearth. And when our off grid family was making building decisions, the choice to have a masonry heater was the first one they made.

Their masonry wood heater was a DIY project built from native limestone and includes a baking oven. It was built in the center of the home so that its warmth could radiate outward and upward to keep the whole home cozy and warm in the northern winters.

Only the doors, firebrick, piping and mortar were purchased to create this mammoth heater. The cast iron doors were purchased from a masonry stove dealer in Vermont, and the rest locally.

So just how efficient is it? 

Well, the owners of this masonry stove said they only need to burn a fire once a day to keep the whole house warm unless it is below zero, then two fires a day suffice. And they only used three cords of wood between the masonry heater AND the wood cook stove last year!

I was very impressed with that, given that I used an average of seven cords of wood every winter for my very efficient wood stoves.

The upper stove is a baking oven. The owners often bake bread and pizzas in the oven, just after the fire has died down, or use it was a “warming drawer”.

In the basement, directly below the masonry stove is this ash can—a large galvanized trash can. Note the strength of the cement block wall to hold the weight of the stone above it. If you have ever dealt with wood stoves you realize immediately how convenient this is to clean out the ashes! Plus the wood ash is excellent for making lye and enriching the garden (do not use wood ash where you plant potatoes as they will scab).

With the masonry heater being the first decision that was made in building this homestead, the rest of the home was designed around the concept. Heat rises and fills the upstairs sleeping areas with warmth. A round antique heat vent in the upstairs of the home allows the radiant heat to rise more efficiently than just through the stairwell.

A Brief History of Masonry Heaters

The earliest known use of masonry heating technology dates back all the way to the Neoglacial and Neolithic periods of human history. These ancient civilizations are said to have used the smoke of fires to provide radiant heat for their underground homes. 

In all of human history, the Kang bed-stove is one of the earliest known instances of modern masonry heater technology. From as early as 5000 B.C., these Chinese “bed-stoves” were multi-person dwelling units primarily made of huge blocks of masonry to retain heat in colder climates. Around the world, forms of masonry heat grew organically in low temperature areas like Eastern Europe and Northern Asia, adopting various forms and names in countries like Russia and Sweden.

Eventually, masonry heaters lost popularity to forms of electric and gas heat found in most homes today. With that said, masonry heaters have seen a renewed popularity in recent years for its ability to provide a sustained off-grid source of heat. 

Other Names for Masonry Heaters

Masonry heaters have been used in many different cultures and have therefore been called several different names. Here are some of the most common alternative names for masonry heaters:

  • Masonry Fireplace
  • Masonry Oven
  • Masonry Furnace
  • Masonry Stove
  • Russian Stove

Additionally, some masonry fireplaces are covered in tile. In these cases, a masonry oven can be referred to as a: 

  • Cocklestove
  • Kachelofen
  • Tilestove
  • Or Ceramic Stove

Why do People Like Masonry Heaters? 

People have been using masonry heaters, or early forms of the device, for thousands of years. This is because they are one of the best ways to heat a home for long periods of time, without being overly expensive to run. 

Masonry fireplaces can easily warm a dwelling for an entire day, with very little upkeep required. Primarily, masonry furnaces are fueled with firewood. In the right areas with a lot of tree coverage, this makes the system very sustainable and inexpensive for ongoing use. 

How do Masonry Heaters work?

Masonry heaters are devices that can be used to warm an interior space with radiant heating (similar to baseboard heaters, or hydronic heating in a floor). As they are named for the material, masonry heaters are made up of masonry, which is typically brick, soapstone, stone, tile, stucco, or a combination of several materials. 

To put it simply, masonry heaters work like a sponge. A wood fire is burned rapidly, usually one to two hours. Heat from the fire is captured within bricks, stone, or tile and “soaked in.” Once these materials have been warmed, they will continue to radiate heat for many hours. In an enclosed space like a living room, the radiant heat from a masonry furnace can be used to keep interior temperatures high, even in the dead of winter.

Masonry heaters are designed to be easy to both use and clean. Typically, a masonry furnace can be loaded with firewood and burned safely with the smoke escaping through a chimney. When in use, there are a few basic mechanical features that allow for people to safely operate the system, maximizing the amount of heat without comprising safety.

Upkeep is extremely important when considering the lifetime of a masonry heater. In addition to continuously unloading of the burnt ashes, the interior of a chimney should be accessible so that it can be properly cleaned regularly.

Filed Under: Off Grid

Best Downspout Diverter for Rain Barrels (plus a $7 DIY option!)

March 8, 2024 by Seasoned Citizen Prepper

In the quest for water self-sufficiency, one of the easiest and most baseline sources of water for preppers to take advantage of is rainwater harvesting.

This is usually done by collecting the water coming through your rain gutters and down through your downspout.

It doesn’t need to be complicated, but to get a simple system setup, there are a few bits of groundwork and supplies.

The 3 Best Downspout Diverters

One of the most import components of the whole thing is your downspout diverter. The diverter is the part that redirects water from running straight down the downspout and out into the landscaping, into a water barrel (or series of barrels).

Make sure to get a downspout diverter that is easy to install and high quality, so it doesn’t fail you in the middle of a rainstorm.

If you don’t already have one, these are the 3 best to check out:

1. Gutterworks Inline Downspout Diverter 

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A simple piece that connects directly to your downspout, the Gutterworks Inline Downspout Diverter makes collecting rainwater a breeze.

Part of what makes this downspout diverter so special is its versatility. If you want to place your barrel right in front of it, water will pour directly in. Should you opt for a larger barrel, you can connect a more elaborate tube system for longer transport to bigger collection basins.

As a failsafe for when your barrel reaches capacity, a simple flip of a switch turns the diverter system back into a traditional gutter and downspout. Rather than allow your barrels to overflow, the switch makes it so that rain runs to, and out, the downspout.

Pros:

  • Comes in two different sizes (2×3 & 3×4)
  • Multiple color options

Cons:

  • Complete diverter is on the larger size, requires additional room for installation

2. Earthminded Flexfit Diverter 

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If you’ve had the pleasure of tapping a Maple tree, you’ll have no problem figuring out how the Earthminded Flexfit Diverter works and is installed (and if you live in an area where you can’t get syrup in your backyard, it’s not a difficult process to learn).

Due to the smaller opening, this diverter makes the most sense for people placing barrels directly under their downspouts. While rain frequency and roof size should not completely regulate your purchase, it must be considered. If you plan on collecting rainwater off of a smaller roof, or even a shed, there is not a better diverter out there.

Pros:

  • Built-in overflow protection
  • Easily installed into new or existing downspouts

Cons:

  • Only fits 3×4 rectangular downspouts 

3. Oatey Rainwater Diverter 

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It might take a few steps to install, but the Oatey Rainwater Diverter is about as effective of a system as any other. Thanks to a seamless design, the structure of your existing downspout is unchanged, but waterflow certainly is. With four feet of hosing included, you can easily build this system to fit your home.

One of only downsides is that there is no overflow protection. For most people this is not a big deal. On the other hand, for those who are saving their water for a “rainy” day, or who do not have overflow protection in their actual barrels, it could lead to flooding in the immediate area. Bottom line, use the water you collect and you have nothing to worry about.

Pros:

  • UV Coating is not weakened if you paint the diverter
  • Requires minimal changes to existing downspout

Cons:

  • Only fits 2×3 rectangular downspouts (Know your size!)

Best Downspout Extensions

If you have more rainwater than can fit in 1 barrel, the best thing to do is get more barrels, and connect them in sequence, so that you can continue to harvest water.

But whether you have 1 barrel or many, if you aren’t using your rainwater quick enough, eventually you will have too much to hold.

What do you do with the rainwater you cannot collect? Do you let it pool around the foundation of your house, which over time will cause considerable and costly structural damage? Absolutely not.

If you don’t want flooding, and you don’t want damage, you need to reroute the excess water. This is usually done with a downspout extension (also called a downspout extender) or splash block. Thanks to a variety of products, finding the perfect fit for your home is no problem.

While some are more complicated than others, all products of this nature have the same goal—get the water away from your home. As to how they accomplish this, that’s where things start to differ.

Downspout extenders and splash block’s come in all shapes and sizes. Additionally, they can be installed above or below the surface. They’re easy to see and serve a practical purpose. 

You won’t trip over them and they require little to no maintenance. As long as they’re installed properly, this is a water collection component that you can set and forget.

These are our 3 favorites, which you can see below. By giving you a little taste of the variety out there, we know that you’ll be able to find an extender that works for you. 

  • Wholesale Plumbing Supply
  • Flex Drain Downspout Extension
  • Lake Lite Splashblock

Best Downspout Filters

These components go by many names—filters, downspout screens or strainers. Regardless of what you call it, they serve the same purpose. These protect your downspout from clogging at the hands of leaves, debris and anything else floating around the air. 

Downspout screens make it so you do not need to regularly clean your gutters since they will not become clogged as easily. Additionally, they ensure rainwater is the only thing getting through your downspout. As long as you’re okay going all the way up to the top of your roof, installing a proper screen will pay off in dividends.

There are people out there who are stuck with the antiquated perception that filters, screens and strainers don’t work. This is because they haven’t had the pleasure of using the right one. Even ten years ago, these claims were valid—now, not so much.

In the past, these measures have been both ineffective and difficult to maintain. Thanks to recent advances and a considerable amount of resources allocated to perfecting their designs, there are now effective products available. Below, we’ve included the two we’ve found to work the best.

Check out filters like this one, or these.

Best Rain Barrels:

Where does the water you collect go? Even though you’ll be using it to water your lawn, plants and for a variety of other things, you can’t just fill a watering can. You need a large barrel with a system in place for you to use the water without moving the tank. That’s where rain barrels come in.

These aren’t your typical barrels. On the outside, they appear rather plain. Inside, they feature a variety of protections that ensure your water remains pure and unaffected by any external hazards. Between screens to keep bugs and debris out and strong seals keeping the structure intact, these are of vital importance. Not to mention, these won’t leak.

Since these barrels will sit outside, unprotected from the sun, they need UV protection. While water can never go “bad”, without additional protection, harmful chemicals will infiltrate your water supply. With this protection, you don’t need to worry about keeping your water safe, it will be ready for when you need it.

Getting one of these is non-negotiable. Having a rain collection system without a proper barrel is pointless. Take a look at our top choices for rain barrels below.

  • Upcycle 55 gallon
  • Mirainbarrel
  • FCMP Outdoor

Best Gutter Downspout Guards

If your roof sits below large trees, or is otherwise exposed to a lot of debris, you’re going to need a little more protection. That’s where gutter downspout guards come in.

Rather than cover only where your downspout and gutter connect, Gutter guards span the length of your roof. Whether you have 22 feet or 5100 feet of gutter to cover, companies like Flexxpoint have you covered.

At minimum, gutter downspout guards will prevent excess leaves and debris from clogging your gutters. At peak efficiency, these additional fixtures will help you dramatically cut down on the number of times you need to get up on the roof and clean out your gutters (or hire someone to do the same thing).

DIY—Want to create your own? 

Sometimes buying a standard product doesn’t help fill all of our needs. Sometimes we need to take things into our own hands if we want them done right. Collecting rainwater is not exempt from this.

Well, if you’re more of a DIY-type person, you’re in luck. You can get a kit that requires a little more assembly, like those offered by EarthMinded. With their rainwater collection kit, you will have no problem transforming your downspout and other household items into a sturdy system for conserving water.

If you want to go even more “bare bones”, there’s another option you can put together on the cheap.

For less than $7 you can create a DIY downspout diverter for your rain barrel that looks good and will remove in the winter in less than 30 seconds and the unit will self-store!

My Experience Creating a Rain Barrel Diverter

I’ve had my rain barrels for two years now trying to figure out a way that I can divert the rainwater from the gutters into the barrels without breaking the bank. Plus, I didn’t want to take apart the gutters to add the diverters. I have four rain barrels so this was sounding like a lot of work.

After two years of contemplating the problem, I came up with this solution and LOVE IT!

The first one I put in was horizontal. I tested it by throwing a hose on the roof, running water into the gutter and out the water came! That is when I noticed that I needed caulk.

These are created from the “Ground Spout” which I purchased at Menards for something like $5 or $6 apiece (if you don’t have a Menards near you, any other hardware store should have them or Amazon does).

They will mount either vertically or horizontally on a standard 4″ down spout. Because not all of my pictures turned out for the first horizontal installation, so I am showing you the vertical installation with a few of the horizontal pics that turned out.

How To Make a DIY Rain Barrel Diverter

5 gallon bucket with rain barrel

First, you need to install and level your rain barrel. I used four cement blocks stacked because it would get the spout high enough to put a five gallon pail under it.

I also created treated plywood bases for my barrels. It was easy to level (actually I tipped them slightly forward) because under the board I put a slip of wood where I needed it.

If you have a lot of wind where you are your empty barrels may want to tip over. If needed – placing a cement block on top will hold it in place.  Be sure to note where your overflow valve is pointing.

Then you need to find a leftover piece of vinyl flooring and cut it. You should be able to tape the photos to make them larger if needed.

Now figure out where and how you want your diverter placed on the down spout. Pre-drill the rectangular piece of plastic in the corners for your screws.

Take the rectangular piece and trace around the inside with a Sharpie marker and mark your screw holes so that you can pre-drill for the holes (this took a smaller marker for me).

Now drill some fairly large holes INSIDE the marked out hole so that you can insert tin snips (that is what I had on hand, but it would work easier with a jigsaw and metal black).

Once you have cut out the hole (Don’t sweat this as it won’t show or very little of it will only during the winter. Just mash the edges down with a pliers if you are concerned about the sharpness).

Pre-drill the screw holes with the appropriate bit. I am using small diameter self-tapping metal screws. Perhaps a man could get them to self-tap, but I couldn’t. Now put caulk all around the hole. I used clear silicone caulk.

Set your screws into the plastic first – Trust me, it is easier having dropped a half dozen screws trying to put them in without starting them first. Now screw it into the downspout.

Next, fold the long side of the vinyl flooring for insertion. Then, insert the vinyl into the hole and push to flatten again the sides.

Make any adjustments you need with a scissors to the vinyl.  Now put the ground spout hose on and clip it in. If you have any bend at all it won’t stay put.

Pre-drill a hole through the top of the rectangular piece for the cotter pin and pre-drill a hole in the bottom round into the round for another cotter pin. Take it down and drill a couple of holes where you need to for some fishing line.

Note: You could just use a nail or a screw but I wanted something very easy to detach some winter and I wanted it to self-store. Fishing line is pretty much invisible and extremely weather resistant. I can pull the pins, not lose them for next year, pull the vinyl and shove it into the spout and lay it to the side until spring.

Now put the spout back in place and insert the pins. If you have a wicked turn, you may need a screw. Try to put it where you can reach it without going on a ladder come winter. More useful information about rain barrel/tanks installation and accessories can be read here.

Done for the year!

Ready to Give it a Shot?

Once your rainwater collection system is in place, you’re ready to begin conserving water.

You can go to a hundred houses and see a hundred different rainwater collection setups. And here’s the thing–none of them are wrong. As long as they accomplish the goal of safely collecting and storing rainwater, they check all the boxes they need to.

Your system can be as simple or as complex as you’d like. At the end of the day, the only thing that matters is that you are storing water.

Filed Under: Your Emergency Water Plan

WaterBob Review – Bathtub Emergency Water Storage Container

March 8, 2024 by Seasoned Citizen Prepper

Waterbob Bathtub Bag

The WaterBob bathtub bladder is an ideal water storage solution for emergency situations. Due to the food-grade plastic, WaterBob’s drinking water storage system keeps up to 100 gallons of water safe for 16 weeks.

People like this product because:

  • It’s inexpensive (price hovers right around $35)
  • It’s easier to store than other water storage strategies, such as large barrels.
  • You can deploy it easily, with just a few minutes (as long as it would take to fill up a bathtub)

Like what you hear? You can see the full specs and details on the official WaterBob bathtub bag on Amazon here.

Algae Bloom Threatens Water Security for Ohio Residents
Unseasonably warm temperatures in the summer of 2014 contributed to an algae bloom in Lake Erie, threatening the water supply for many Ohio residents (via EcoWatch).

Here’s the quick version:

There have always been threats to our supply of clean drinking water–tornados, hurricanes, earthquakes, and other natural disasters. I had family members near Toledo who had to use bottled water for nearly a month. Due to an unusually warm summer, toxic algae eventually contaminated the surrounding water supply.

One of the most critical things to remember is that if you are on municipal water, a power outage almost always means no water as well (pumps can’t run). 

Without a solid emergency water plan , you leave yourself vulnerable during survival situations. Once the grocery stores run out of clean water, you’ll find yourself at the mercy of strangers and organizations like FEMA and the Red Cross.

Waterbob Emergency Drinking Water Storage
The Waterbob uses the space of your bathtub to give you a relatively low-cost way to quickly store 100 gallons of water.

Real Stories of the WaterBob in the Wild

Since WaterBob began selling its bathtub water storage system, people from all over the world have attested to the product’s usefulness. With over 1,200 ratings on Amazon, this puppy has a 4.7/5 (at time of writing). 

In one 5-star review, a two-time hurricane survivor wrote:

Used the WaterBob During Hurricanes Matthew and Irma

A Florida resident faced the worst-case scenario: no power for an entire week:

Used WaterBob in Florida Hurricane

Finally, a Hurricane Matthew victim found the WaterBob Bathtub Water Storage useful once the storm hit:

Survived Hurricane Matthew with the WaterBob Bladder

WaterBob Pros

  • WaterBob’s product comes in a small compact container, which makes convenient storage.
  • Constructed of FDA-approved, food-grade plastic
  • It’s effortless to set up and holds about a hundred gallons of water for up to sixteen weeks.
  • The included pump system is convenient for filling

WaterBob Cons

  • The biggest con is that you need to actually have 15-30 minutes of notice, in order to actually fill it up. This makes it PERFECT for disasters like hurricanes, tornadoes, ice storms, rolling blackouts or fires, but probably not a lot of help in something immediate like an earthquake or sudden power outage.
  • You can only use the WaterBob storage system once. However, it’s only $35, so buying another won’t wreck your bank account.
  • Doesn’t hold as much water as storage barrels or water bricks

How To Use Your WaterBob

Using the WaterBob water storage container is intentionally straightforward. It’s easy to hook up to your bathtub faucet and takes less than half an hour to fill.

  1. Remove the bladder from the box, and unfold it.
  2. Then, you’ll find a valve at one end to hook up to your bath’s faucet. When you spread the container out in your tub, make sure the filling valve is closest to the drain.
  3. Connect the tube to the lid and tap, and start running the water.
  4. Your WaterBob will take about 15 to 30 minutes to fill, and then you’re good to go. 
  5. If you’re going to add water purification drops, it’s a good idea to add them shortly after filling, so you don’t forget, and the drops can begin treating the water.
  6. When you need to fill up a day’s worth of water in a jug, use the included pump to access the water for drinking, cleaning, cooking, and flushing.

Here’s a few more important details:

About WaterBob The Company

Tony Woodruff, the inventor of the WaterBob Bathtub Water Storage, created this product after watching countless people scramble for supplies amid natural disasters. Once officials declared an emergency, people were left to their resources to prepare. In a scramble for survival, the news showed people frantically stocking up on food and bottled water.

Over time, Tony Woodruff developed his water storage system so people would have access to drinking water until help arrived. During events like hurricanes, essential utilities can stay out for weeks at a time. But even if these basic needs remain running, flooding can contaminate essential running water.

WaterBob constructs their water containers using the highest quality, BPA free materials. Various prepper books like Lights Out have mentioned this product, and it’s appeared on channels such as CNN and National Geographic. With over a thousand positive reviews, it seems Tony Woodruff succeeded in his goal of creating a secure water storage system.

Flint Michigan Water Crisis - Water Preparedness
A Michigan resident shows a container of highly lead-contaminated water from the Flint water supply, next to another bottle from Detroit.

The WaterBob Bathtub Water Storage is Great For Everyone

WaterBob’s product is a godsend for those left vulnerable to powerful natural disasters like hurricanes, tornadoes, and more. Having this sixteen-week buffer of drinking water will help to make sure you give help enough time to arrive.

This product is especially suited for people who live in city apartments or who just don’t have room for a couple of water barrels. While larger products store more water, many people either can’t afford them or don’t have the necessary storage space.

Urban preppers especially love this product because the plastic containment system is easy to store. The only thing to keep in mind is storing an unused WaterBob system in a dry place.

Also, when you do fill it with water, try to keep the inflated system away from direct sunlight. Too much exposure can lead to algae growth. WaterBob recommends only using this system once since you might not completely drain it afterward. The excess water can then lead to future contamination after exposure to the outside air.

Why Storing Safe Water is Important

It’s never safe to assume your community is immune to water and food shortages, but the events in Flint, Michigan, shattered any lingering misconceptions.

According to the CDC, in 2017, nearly 7,000 Americans died from illnesses contracted via contaminated water. These diseases include dysentery, typhoid, and hepatitis.

According to WaterBob, most people use over 150 gallons of water a day. However, what’s frightening is that a person can survive only a couple of days without water. So when you’re preparing for an emergency, you should have at least a three-day supply. A general rule for this is one gallon allotted to every person per day.

But you also need to keep in mind that water needs vary from person to person, and preparation requires personally customized plans.

Emergencies strike without warning, often leaving you little to no time for preparation. For example, water scarce areas in the West have already tasted the danger of a water-shortage. This effect will amplify, especially as more water reservoirs dry up from farming and other purposed.

Natural disasters are another big risk, since hurricanes and pandemics can leave people and necessities separated for a long time. WaterBob’s storage system costs only $35, meaning you’re not sacrificing much for this long-term investment.

Water Bricks for Water Storage
The “Water Bricks” pictured here are an extremely sturdy, modular way to build water storage little by little, but present a logistical nightmare when you think about rotating the water inside (via YouTuber “7 Trumpets Prepper”).

Other Water Storage Solutions

Aquapod Bathtub Bladder

WaterBob isn’t the only bathtub bladder company out there; it’s just the best. Other companies, such as AquaPod, offer similar products that only hold about 70 gallons. AquaPod’s water storage system will keep your water clean, but only for about eight weeks. In comparison, WaterBob’s product keeps your water supply clean for up to sixteen weeks.

55 Gallon Water Storage Barrel

Water storage barrels are a great option if you have the real estate and the cash on hand. Each barrel costs somewhere a hundred and two hundred dollars, and take up a considerable amount of space. However, two of these barrels can keep a family of four hydrated for about a month.

Auguson Farms has a great option that includes filtration bottles. When you treat the water, it has a four-year shelf life so long as you store it in a cool area.

Water Bricks

Water bricks are similar to storage barrels. However, water bricks are smaller and storage-friendly to stack. The benefit to products like Reliance’s “Aqua-tainer” is that it holds seven gallons and only costs around $15 on Amazon. 

While water bricks are more accessible to store than barrels, they don’t hold nearly the same amount of water as products like WaterBob’s bathtub bladder. They also pose a logistical nightmare when you think about rotating out the water in them on a yearly basis. 

FAQs About The WaterBob and Water Storage

Can my bathtub actually support the weight of a full WaterBob? 

A WaterBob will hold 100 gallons of water. At 8.3 lbs. per gallon, that is about 830 pounds of weight in your bathtub. This seems like a lot of weight, but remember, it’s the same amount of weight that a bathtub always holds when it’s full of water…. only this time, it’s in a plastic bag. 

How does the Water Bob hand pump work?

You get the water out via a hand-pump device, a “siphon pump”; you unscrew a cap and place the pump when you want to take water out, and replace the cap when you are finished removing water, until the next time.

The hand pump is a simple device. It has an opaque plastic hose attached. You are supposed to place a water containment unit (pitcher, whatever you want to put the water in) BELOW the level of the hand pump. That could get tough as the water reduces in the tub, just being honest about it.

Can I really only use the Water Bob once?

Per the instructions that come with WaterBob, you should scrap it after 1 use. To quote the instructions:

“When fresh water is no longer needed, slit the side of the liner and drain the remaining water. The bladder should be disposed of and recycled.”

I called the company and inquired as to “why”. The answer was about what I expected: “because it’s impossible to get all the water out and it can be contaminated.” Translation? Covering our butts so when someone claims they got sick from repeated use, we can say, “we told you to use it once.” Because a Waterbob is difficult to fully dry, contamination from mold and mildew are a potential threat forever afterwards.

However, some preppers that live in hurricane prone areas have reported using them more than once, exclusively for showering and flushing toilets. 

How often do I need to rotate my water supply? 

About every year, you should switch out the water in your containers. While proper storage allows you to store water indefinitely, it’s always safe to change out the supply. This process is necessary because different bacteria can form over time. Also, the longer you store water, the worst it will taste over time. Combat this by swishing around the contents to mix it with more oxygen.

Conclusion

The WaterBob water storage system is one of the best short-term solutions. Developed to help people stranded by hurricanes and other natural disasters, it uses the space of your bathtub to give you a relatively low-cost way to quickly store 100 gallons of water, and is a superior alternative to fighting through the crowds for a week’s worth of water bottles.

Filed Under: Your Emergency Water Plan

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