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What Preppers Need to Know About Small Game Hunting

March 4, 2024 by Seasoned Citizen Prepper

To survive in the wild when SHTF, you have to learn to hunt the most abundant forms of game. This includes rabbits, squirrels, quail, turtle and even the occasional chipmunk, if pickings are slim. One thing is certain: When things start to get ugly, you will need to be able to take whatever game you can, if you expect to be well-fed.

To maximize the benefits of the hunt, here are few things to keep in mind.

Small Game vs. Large Game

Stalking is one of the most effective ways to get squirrel and other small game. Normally, the best time to hunt both is in the early morning, although late evening is good too. Unlike big deer, who will bolt at the slightest noise, small game will hang around a second or two longer. Be ready, though, because they are much faster at the getaway once they decide to take off.

The Best Kill Shot

Unless you want to use the brains for food, the best kill shot for a small animal is a headshot. There are a few good reasons for this.

First, a head shot is a direct kill and won’t damage the hide. Squirrel and rabbit hides can be tanned extremely soft, and they are excellent for boot liners and children’s clothing.

The second reason: It maximizes the amount of usable meat you can harvest from the animal. This also keeps a majority of the long bones in tact. If preserved correctly, the long bones can be used for sewing needles and awls, fish hooks and a variety of other tools preppers need living in the wilderness.

Know What to Keep and What to Discard

Small animals are more susceptible to rabies and other forms of parasites. When you gut the animal, be on the lookout for any indication of illness or disease. If you see anything that looks suspicious, don’t keep the meat. Bury it with the rest of the entrails and make sure it won’t be able to be dug up by another animal looking for food.

If the hide and bones are in good shape, clean them exceptionally well before using them or preserving them.

Do Not Over Harvest

Limit the number of animals you take from one area. One of the best ways to do that is by trapping. Not only does trapping allow you to conserve your ammunition, it also makes sure you take animals from different areas at different times. Set your traps and go about your business.

After a few hours, make your rounds and harvest your rewards. A properly set and bated trap will net animals on a regular basis, if you continue to move and cover them frequently.

Common Sense Rules

No matter where you are or where you hunt, always be aware of your surroundings. Now is the time to take a hunters safety course online so you have a good, working understanding of what is expected of you while you are out in the woods.

A smart hunter knows where to find his prey, but he also knows where his competition is. Make sure you have the advantage by keeping your weapons and traps at the ready.

Filed Under: Survival Food

How To Make Yogurt in a Thermos [Recipe]

March 4, 2024 by Seasoned Citizen Prepper

There are many ways to “make” yogurt. We will focus on one: thermos yogurt, as it is easy and cost-effective. If you don’t already own a thermos or two, they are usually not hard to find in second hand shops, but you will need a WIDE-MOUTH thermos for this project. You could probably use regular one, but, it will be harder to get the yogurt out.

A thermos is an excellent heat retainer; this will provide the even, slow heat needed to ferment your yogurt.

Yogurt is nothing more than milk that has been fermented by special strains of beneficial bacteria. It is a FERMENTED food, which IS, in and of itself, “probiotic”; it is not necessary to buy a “brand” to get a probiotic; all yogurt (as is true of all fermented foods) are “probiotic”.

Yogurt can be made from any kind of milk, whether raw or pasteurized (let’s not even get into that argument right now!); it can be cow’s milk, goat’s milk, yak milk, whatever you have. I have not tried yak milk, but the point is, you should be able to make yogurt from any kind of milk. You can make yogurt from skim, whole, or any fat content milk.

You will need a “starter” for your yogurt. The simplest thing to do, as long as it is available, is to buy a ready-made yogurt at the grocery. Don’t skimp on quality here; there are many makers of yogurt and, without question, some are healthier than others; read the labels; know what you’re buying before you buy it. For starter, buy only plain yogurt. You can add your fruits, etc., later.

As a rule: use one-half cup (1/2 cup) yogurt to each quart of milk; stir well, to make sure there are no lumps.

Try to use only glass bowls, glass or stainless steel pots, and stainless steel tools for preparing your yogurt. Avoid plastic, wood, and other materials that might “taint” your finished product.

First, heat milk to “almost boiling” (but do not actually boil it – just look for bubbles around the outside edges of your pan, then, let it cool. How much milk? First, determine how much your thermos will hold; then, use the formula given above, adjusting as needed.

Rinse your thermos out with very warm (not hot) water just before the next step.

When the milk has cooled to “luke warm”, add yogurt to milk. Now pour this mixture into your pre-heated wide-mouth thermos, and place the lid. Allow to set 4-6 hours before refrigerating. Leave it alone during this time.

Properly made yogurt is rich and custard-like, with a creamy, slightly tart taste. Homemade yogurt tends to be sweeter than store bought.

If, after refrigerating, you see “waterish” stuff on top, this is whey. You find this in store-bought yogurt, too. Don’t discard it! Stir it back in or drink it – it is rich in vitamin B12 and minerals!

Tips and Tricks for Yogurt Success:

  1. Do not disturb the milk while “brewing”; even small movements can cause whey separation, which will change your results;
  2. Don’t overheat the milk (don’t boil it); don’t allow it to cool completely, either; either will cause the retardation of the bacteria, and the yogurt will not ferment properly;
  3. Do not use old starter; it may not do its job well; On the other hand, a culture that is too “new” (fresh) will not do its job well, either – so if you make your own starters, allow it to age a bit before using (at least 24 hours).
  4. When you make a fresh batch, save some for your next starter; starter should be used within five (5) days.

Yogurt will keep well for about 8 days under refrigeration and properly packed in an air-tight container. It can also be frozen for several months (who doesn’t love frozen yogurt?)!!

Filed Under: Recipes

9 Ways That I Actually USE My Preparedness Supplies

March 4, 2024 by Seasoned Citizen Prepper

I don’t believe in hoarding, even though sometimes it seems rather cluttered around here – well, maybe I do hoard my scraps of plywood, but that behavior has saved me so much money over the years that I am not going to castigate myself for it (In fact, I built a nice 8′ x 30” x 30” high, extremely sturdy shop table, for the cost of a sheet of 3/4” plywood, because I had everything else in scraps).

Medical Supplies in Pencil Pouches
Pencil Pouch Medical Preparedness.

But I do use my preparedness supplies. Here are 9 ways that I’ve used them recently:

  1. Just this past week, I woke up with a pounding headache – very unusual for me. As the day wore on, I realized I had a sinus infection. I have my medical backpack with supplies and then Dollar Store pencil pouches categorized for Pain, Antibiotics, Wounds, Syringes and Needles, Eye & Sliver, and Animal Only. I hit the antibiotics that I have prepped and within hours I felt relief. No calling the doctor and making an appointment, suffering until you can see him/her, waiting in line at the pharmacy for the prescriptions. I had the solution in my preps.
  2. Then, right in the middle of making dinner, my manual can opener decided it was worn out. I went down to my preparedness supplies and got a second one. No frustration of running to the store and going down aisles and paying for a brand new one. Nope, I had the solution to the problem on hand and dinner was on time.
  3. And then we had company this last weekend and ran out of TP. I had put Bob in charge of the housecleaning as it was his company and I did the outside tidying as they came specifically to see my flower gardens. He forgot to check the TP. When a guest mentioned that they had run out of TP, I sent Bob downstairs to get a pack. Hmmmm, he came up with his arms full of double 12 roll packs, and there are more. Saved a trip to the convenience store.
  4. Then we had an unexpected storm and I turned my weather radio on. Another preparedness item I had purchased a while back.
  5. Then my camera decided not to work. Hmmmm, could be batteries. Yup, you guessed it, I have extra batteries on hand because I prepare.
  6. I broke my reading glasses this week. Yup, a couple of extra pair in my supplies.
  7. And when my truck needed to be fixed a couple of weeks ago, I dove into my bug out bag and there was the cash to pay the mechanic – now I have to figure out how put it back on a tight budget.
  8. And then there is the flashlight in my B.O.B. that I used this week, when I forgot to shut the door on the chicken cage while there was still light out.
  9. And the duck tape I had on hand when I needed to secure a board before screwing it into place.

And yes, I have long term food storage that I’ve thoughtfully assembled from a survival food list – I call this my “life assurance”. But I also have life insurance, car insurance, house insurance, and health insurance. Most of these I hope to never use. But they are there if I need them.

What I’m getting at, is the practicality of being prepared and organized! You have what you need on hand and can find it at a moments notice. And you can replace what you are using when it is on sale and convenient for YOU.

Filed Under: Survival Gear

How To Find and Purchase Things After a Major Disaster

March 4, 2024 by Seasoned Citizen Prepper

One of the VERY valuable lessons that I learned post Hurricane Katrina was that buying anything was a problem.

When Hurricane Katrina hit New Orleans, all of the electricity for the entire New Orleans metro area failed.

Then the levees broke and the flooding started. It did not flood where I worked in the central business district. Neither did my residence flood. Both were high and dry.

hurricane katrina

However, all of the main branches of ALL of the banks in New Orleans were flooded and without electricity. This had more of a far reaching effect than I had ever imagined.

Everyone that stayed in the New Orleans area, post Hurricane Katrina had the same problem. Because ALL of the branches of ALL of the banks in the New Orleans metro area did not have electricity and/or were flooded, this placed ALL of the banks computer systems underwater and/or without electricity to power their computers.

No merchant could confirm that you had any money on deposit with the bank that you used. This meant that NO business would take ANY credit card, ANY debit card or ANY check because there was no way to verify how much money you had on deposit with your bank.

The only thing that any merchant would take was CASH! If you did not have cash, you were not able to buy anything.

Another problem was that because payroll checks, Social Security and retirement checks, etc. was electronically deposited into our bank account, there was no way to confirm that any funds were on deposit in your bank account. So, NO auto bills were paid from our checking accounts, making all of those bills delinquent.

I found one gas station that had a generator powering one gas pump. I tried to use silver American Eagle coins to purchase gas. The manager told me he had no idea what the coin was worth.

The station manager then told me that it said “one dollar” on a one ounce silver U.S. coin and that is what it would buy, one dollars’ worth of gas. I had a 32 gallon gas tank. You can figure out how many one once, silver, American Eagles it would have taken to fill my gas tank? To the gas station manager, it was just a U. S. dollar coin (there were other ways to get gas).

DO NOT store only gold and silver coins for emergency purchasing purposes.

I HIGHLY recommend that along with your emergency supplies, you keep some cash money in varied denominations. If you decide to do this, store only one, five, ten and twenty dollar bills. That is the only thing that merchants would accept without any problem.

Bartering is another way to obtain items. However, that is the subject for another article.

Filed Under: Disasters

How To Make Invisible Ink – Low-Tech Survival Communications

March 4, 2024 by Seasoned Citizen Prepper

Have you ever stopped to ask yourself how you would communicate after a zombie apocalypse? I mean, it’s not like you will be using internet, or any electronics devices, in all likelihood. Even if you still have them at your disposal, you may not want to use them. Since every phone conversation and every email message, fb, pinterest, etc. are all being monitored in real time NOW, just imagine what it will be like then.

So, just how would you communicate in such a way as not to give away important information (OpSec)? I honestly do not know; I am hoping to ignite useful discussion on the subject here.

There is no doubt in my mind we may find ourselves “going back to the future”; returning to low-tech methods of getting many things done, including, perhaps, communications.

One of the thoughts  I had, of course, is carrier pigeons. An Uncle of mine once kept, bred, and trained pigeons. My Aunt hated them. They stank; they were noisy; they were very time-consuming. They need to eat and they need fresh water, every day. They need cages cleaned out regularly, even though the guano, or poop, or whatever you call it for pigeons, fell through the bottom of the mesh cages. Then you had the reproductive issues – managing your flock so you didn’t end up with more pigeons than you could handle.

On the other hand, I’m told pigeons are quite tasty, and were a common food source during WWII. So, one might argue that one could kill the proverbial two birds with one stone: food source and communications!

Naturally, one would need to learn how to train carriers to use them. I’m guessing that takes a lot of time and hard work. So, we may need less time critical methods.

And what if the messages were “captured”, as so often has happened in the past? So then my mind wandered to invisible inks, a.k.a., sympathetic inks. But, how do you make them? I found the answers in a book titled, “Modern Chemical Magic” by Lippy & Palder; these guys are magicians!

A sympathetic (invisible) ink is one that becomes visible when you apply another type of chemical, or handle it in a certain way. They can either be permanently visible, or only temporarily visible (they will vanish again).

Most such inks look like clear water, and, when dry, become invisible on most soft, white papers.

These guys segregate the secrets by color, so, I’ll just follow their lead.

Today, let’s talk about how to write invisibly with the color, Red. There are a number of ways to do this. Please note that I do not include any warnings or information on these chemicals. Do your homework before messing with any chemical, take prudent precautions, and know what you are doing before you do it (as with anything!).

Red Invisible Ink

(1) 15 grains potassium iodide dissolved in one ounce of distilled water. Sponge over with a solution of 20 grains mercury bichloride dissolved in one ounce water.

Potassium iodide is the potassium salt form of iodide, a naturally occurring substance. Potassium iodide can be used as an expectorant to thin mucus and loosen congestion in your chest and throat. Potassium iodide is used in people with chronic breathing problems that can be complicated by thick mucus in the respiratory tract, such as asthma, chronic bronchitis, or emphysema.  There are medical warnings that appear to be for too much of it. See:  http://www.drugs.com/mtm/potassium-iodide.html

(2) Weak solution of copper nitrate; when writing is exposed to mild heat, it becomes visible.

Copper(II) nitrate, Cu(NO3)2, is an inorganic compound that forms a blue crystalline solid. Anhydrous copper nitrate forms deep blue-green crystals and sublimes in a vacuum at 150-200 °C

From:  https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Copper%28II%29_nitrate

(3) Use a strong alcoholic solution of phenolphthalein, which becomes invisible when dry. To see it, expose to fumes of a strong solution of ammonia. As ammonia fumes evaporate, writing disappears again. If you want to make it “disappear” immediately, breathe on it.

Phenolphthalein is a mild acid that can be used for medical and scientific purposes. When used in medicine, this compound is most commonly recognized as an ingredient in over-the-counter laxatives. In laboratory settings, it is typically used to test the acidity of other substances.

Phenolphthalein is a crystal powder that is usually white but may sometimes have a yellow tinge. It does not typically have a smell or a taste. It may, however, cause coughing or sneezing if it is inhaled.

From:  http://www.wisegeek.com/what-is-phenolphthalein.htm

(4) A weak solution of silver nitrate, when exposed to heat (after drying) crates a rose-red color.

Silver nitrate is used as the starting point for the synthesis of many other silver compounds, as an antiseptic, and as a yellow stain for glass in stained glass. Most preppers are familiar with silver nitrate, as it is a water purifier. It’s not hard to find.

(5) Use 10% solution of potassium ferrocyanide (sounds serious, doesn’t it?!). Apply a 50% solution of iron tincture to produce a red color.

potassium ferrocyanide:  noun Chemistry .

a lemon-yellow, crystalline, water-soluble solid, K 4  Fe(CN) 6  ⋅3H 2  O, used chiefly in casehardening alloys having an iron base and in dyeing wool and silk.

Also called yellow prussiate of potash.

From:  http://dictionary.reference.com/browse/potassium_ferrocyanide

Sodium ferrocyanide is the main anti caking agent in salt. Further, it is used in the production of Citric acid and pigments, like Prussian Blue.

From:  http://www.gentrochema.nl/index.php/sodium-ferrocyanide/?gclid=CKPdkfPjgLkCFZSY4AodEVQAag

(6) Write with an aqueous solution of iron chloride and allow to dry. Then use a solution of sodium sulfocyanide, and the writing will appear, in red. Well, it was a lot more difficult to find a straight description of sodium sulfocyanide, although suppliers are plentiful, especially in bulk; you’ll have to look this one up for yourself.

Blue Invisible Ink

Here are chemicals that will produce a blue tone sympathetic (invisible or disappearing) “ink”:

Cobalt(II) chloride; the name alone suggests the color, doesn’t it?! Vanishes upon cooling; mild heat makes it visible again.
Cobalt chloride is an inorganic compound; it is made up of cobalt and chlorine, and has the chemical formula CoCl2. In chemistry, it is most often referred to as hexahydrate with the chemical structure CoCl2·6H2O. It is commonly used in labs. Hexahydrate has a deep purple color; the anhydrous form has a sky blue tone. Blending these two compounds produces a mauve tone. When ignited, cobalt chloride produces a blue-green flame.

Available at Amazon and at www.grainger.com , among other places.

Write with cobalt nitrate solution, then wet with a weak solution of oxalic acid; a blue color will then appear.
Cobalt(III) nitrate is an inorganic compound – chemical formula Co(NO3)3. You can get this from grainger, also.

An aqueous solution of copper sulfate (cs mixed in water). An aquaeous solution uses water as a solvent. Make visible by sponging with a solution of iron chloride.
Dissolve 15 grains of copper sulfate in one ounce of water. Sponge with a solution of 15 grains of ammonium hydrate in one ounce of water.
A hydrate is a compound formed by the addition of water to another molecule, thus “aquaeous”; as used in chemistry. Hydrates are inorganic salts containing water molecules that form a crystal with the host compound.

If you just want a short cut to writing with ink that disappears until wet, use the chemical bismuth nitrate. Let dry. Upon wetting, the writing becomes visible. The instructions do not tell us whether this is a one time thing, or if it will disappear when dry again, then reappear when wet again.

Or, just use silver nitrate in a weak solution (water), and allow to dry. When exposed to light, the writing will become visible again. DO NOT expose the paper to light until you are ready to read it.

So, what is the “right” way to use sympathetic ink? Well….

Write a letter that won’t interest anyone; leave just the right amount of space between the lines. Now use your sympathetic ink to write between the lines and watch it disappear! Or, write the REAL message on the back of the decoy letter. This is how it was historically done.

I wonder how well it would work to use two different hidden messages, two different chemical inks? One could be the decoy (false) message, perhaps “between the lines” that perhaps becomes visible only when wet, and the other “real” message becomes visible only when subjected to light? Most people aren’t going to be looking for two different “hidden” messages, using very different processes.

How To Make Black Invisible Ink

Here are chemicals that will produce a black color for sympathetic (invisible or disappearing) “ink”:

Write with a solution of one part sulfuric acid mixed with 10 parts water. Writing disappears, but reappears when it is gently heated. Note: this is a dangerous substance. There probably are safer choices than sulfuric acid. Sulfuric acid (sometimes spelled “sulphuric acid”) is highly corrosive as a mineral acid. It has the molecular formula H2SO4. It does have a pungent odor (serves as a good “warning”, sort of like a poisonous plant); it is generally colorless but may have a slightly yellow look when dissolved in aqueous solutions. Some labs dye it dark brown to alert people to “hazard” for this chemical. The historical name of sulfuric acid is oil of vitriol.

Write with a 15% solution of ammonium hyperchlorate. Heat the paper carefully to develop the writing.  I am having trouble finding info on ammonium hyperchlorate, so, do your homework and proceed with caution.

Dissolve 20 grains of iron sulfate in one ounce of water. Develop the writing by  sponging with a solution of 5 grains of tannic acid dissolved in one ounce of water. Tannic acid should not be confused with tannin, found in both green and black teas. Tannic acid is a specific commercial form of tannin, a type of polyphenol; these two are NOT the same chemical compounds. Commercial tannic acid is generally extracted from certain plants, however, including tara pods, gallnuts, or Sicilian Sumac leaves.

Starch boiled in water will turn black when treated with tincture of iodine. These two are very common, inexpensive, and may be one of your best “hidden” choices – who would put these together as an “OpSec tool”, for example?

Writing with a strong solution of mercurous nitrate then exposing to ammonia fumes will cause black writing to appear. On the other hand, exposure to ammonia fumes might me turn black, as well!

Clearly, if you’re going to experiment with some of these chemicals, you might want to do it outdoors, for your own ease of breathing and ease of mind. And be very careful how you store this stuff!

So, what if you’re not exactly the chemistry/geek type, but you want to try some fun stuff like this? Well, look in your kitchen! Use the juices of some of these food items and apply mild heat to reactivate them, after drying:

Lemon juice/Leek juice/Milk/Buttermilk/onion juice/cabbage juice/artichoke juice/grapefruit juice

Salt Writing: dissolve common table salt (sodium chloride) in water (they do not give ratios). Write with this solution on white paper using a clean pen (I’m sure they were using “nibs” or metal point pens such as one would dip in ink – you can buy them in hobby stores, in the “Italic writing” sections). When the writing is dry, scratch over it with a soft pencil and the words you have written will show up plainly in dark lines.

DO keep in mind that this book was written at a time when paper was simply paper; today, most papers are “specialized” and many have any number of chemical treatments, including intentional chemical coatings. This probably will significantly impact your results. I’m guessing the cheaper paper has fewer chemical treatments – just a hint. Experiment, and have fun along the way!

Lippy and Palder’s book, “Modern Chemical Magic” will also teach you how to write invisibly (sympathetic inks) with the colors green, brown, violet, and yellow. It contains many “magic tricks” using these compounds, such as the trick known as “spirit writing”. The book is paperback, yet, it HAS NO COPYRIGHT – not that I can find, anyway. Can you believe that? It does come with a forward by the famous magician, Harry Blackstone. The authors’ complete names are John D. Lippy, Jr. and Edward L. Palder, though I’ll be surprised if you can the book.

And now that we’ve talked about ways to use “sympathetic” (invisible) inks, what ideas and/or suggestions have you come up with to maintain OpSec in low-tech communications post-IHTF?

Filed Under: Communications

Why Do I Prepare for Disasters?

March 4, 2024 by Seasoned Citizen Prepper

I walked into a used-a-bit store this last week looking for canning jars and came across this old picture.

preparedness antique pic

I believe the copyright was 1917, during the peak of WWI and just before the 1918 influenza pandemic struck and killed nearly 25% (And I have seen the figures as much as 40% of the human population at that time.) of all people worldwide, my own great-grandmother died of influenza in 1918. I was watching a documentary a year or so ago that traced the flu back to a camp in France where it mutated from swine.

Then there were the “Roaring Twenties” and then the Great Depression. Another world war, and the booming fifties, social unrest in the ’60s and early ’70s, another severe recession, the ’80s were bumpy but okay, the ’90s boomed, then several regional wars wearing down our economy and in 2007 what they are now calling the Great Recession. I’m getting old…

Why do I prepare? Because as sure as the sun will rise tomorrow, with or without me, there will be personal hard times and there will be hard times globally whether it be the economy or a pandemic or natural disaster, whatever. I prepare to survive hard times.

Preparedness is not something we do and then quit. It is a mindset, a way of life. Generations of people since pre-history have been setting aside food, using what they had, making do with what was at hand. And they survived because of that thoughtfulness, or necessity, to prepare.

What has me confused is – What happened that preparedness has become a movement that people (Our own Government) fear? That old picture of Uncle Sam with Cream of Wheat tells me that a hundred years ago our government was encouraging people to prepare.

That mindset went at least through the ’40s. And it is still here with financial planning, etc. I’m thinking it is the fear mongering and gun toting part of the preparedness movement that has almost made “preparedness” a dirty word.

I met a guy a couple of weeks ago online through my fossil hobby. We were chatting and I mentioned preparedness and he went ballistic! I was shocked, needless to say, and directed him to take a look at seasonedcitizenprepper.com. He read a bit and came back saying that it was a “Practical, common sense preparedness site; not like some of those…”

Has basic, common sense preparedness been hijacked by the fringe “Doomsday Preppers”? I’ve seen some of the videos by radical young men with their AR-15s and rants against the government. I personally just move on to more sane voices. But somehow, I get lumped in with them when I mention preparedness. I suppose it is kind of like being a working homesteader and getting lumped in with the pot smoking hippies and communes. Not at all what it is about, but what mainstream media paints the picture as being.

For me, homesteading is a lifestyle of self-reliance as much as possible, NOT self-sufficiency. I am part of a community. Preparedness is one aspect of that lifestyle. And I can’t say that after two strokes I am anywhere near as self-reliant as I was, but still trying. And preparedness, well that is just trying to be as self-reliant as possible – that’s it. Nothing more; nothing less. Not relying on the government to protect you all the time, hand you food, or keep your lights on. And for me, to hopefully be able to help others in need as well.

Filed Under: Getting Started

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