• Skip to primary navigation
  • Skip to main content

SCP Survival

Best Survival Gear and Supplies

  • Survival PDFs
  • Survival Food List
  • Download 906 Survival Guides to Your Device

2 Considerations for Tornado Preparedness

March 8, 2024 by Seasoned Citizen Prepper

Given the horrific tornadoes that devastated Washington, IL and killed 8 people, I thought a post on tornado preparedness would be appropriate.

I’m thinking that we all know where the safest place is in our homes to go in case of a tornado – basement, under the stairs, in the center of the home in a small room like the bathroom, etc.

But here are two things that most people do not consider:

1. You are trapped in your tornado shelter by debris for 3 days – this actually happened to a lady last year.

  • Do you have water in your tornado shelter area?
  • Do you have food in your tornado shelter area?
  • Do you have an emergency whistle – 3 short blasts is SOS and can be heard for up to a mile – in your tornado shelter area?
  • An emergency radio in your tornado shelter area to know when the danger has passed?
  • Do you have at least one garbage bag for waste in your tornado shelter area?
  • Blankets for warmth in cold weather?
  • A first aid kit and 3 days of any absolutely necessary medications?

2. You’re on the road in your vehicle when you encounter a tornado, what do you do (assume that you can’t out run it and there is no nearby home where you can take shelter)?

  • Do you drive into a grove of trees for shelter?
  • Stop, check your seat belt and just hang onto the steering wheel?
  • Exit your vehicle and lie down in the lowest ditch you can reach?
  • Try to find an overpass, exit your vehicle and crawl up under it?
  • Say a prayer, step on the gas and try to get through it?

Filed Under: Disasters

7 Wilderness Survival Tools To Keep You Alive

March 8, 2024 by Seasoned Citizen Prepper

Out in the wilderness, your wits aren’t enough to keep you alive. Nature can be harsh and unforgiving- that’s why you need everything from rope to solar fire starter survival tools if you’re going to make it back in one piece.  Here’s a few other tools that will help you along the way. Duct Tape - Survival Tools

1. The Infamous Duct Tape

Duct tape has a million practical uses–several of them involving outdoor survival. Just as an example, you can fix a tear in your tent, fix your sleeping bag, a busted water bottle, tears in your clothing, and even repair a broken fishing pole. You can even use it as a band aid for cuts, in a medical emergency. Rope - Survival Tools

2. Rope

Similar to duct tape, rope is a tool that has several different uses, most of which apply to wilderness survival. With a rope, you can tie down a tent, tie down objects, use it to pull heavy objects, get up and down the side of a cliff, or even make a ladder. Duct Tape - Survival Tools

3. Knife

A knife is perhaps one of the most important and vital tools you can have at your disposal, if you find yourself stuck in the wilderness. A knife can be used as a digging tool, a weapon, in hunting, a hammer, a stake, and it can also be used to help construct shelter on the fly. Map and Compass - Survival Tools

4. Compass and Map

When you’re dealing with outdoor environments that can be unfamiliar, you’re going to need a reliable compass and map (along with the knowledge of how to use them) if you plan on surviving. Using a map and compass is an essential skill if you have a pre-designed course, that you want to take in the wilderness. Lost proofing is more about awareness of your surroundings, but when you have certain places you want to go and things you want to see, then knowing how to use a map can be really important. Solar Fire Starter - Survival Tools

5. Solar Fire Starter

If you’re going to be outside for longer than a single night, you’re going to need a proper tool that will allow you to quickly and easily get a fire started. Solar fire starter survival tools are extremely helpful for when you’re either in an area where kindling isn’t readily available, or if you find yourself in a damp area where branches and other sources of wood can’t easily catch fire through friction. Head Lamp - Survival Tools

6. Head Lamp

Has navigating at night ever been a hassle? What about reading a map in the dark? You’ve got your flashlight in one hand and you’re trying to do everything else with the other hand. Or you’ve had to enlist a friend to hold your light, while you do the work and that light is never quite pointed where you want it. Well, there’s a solution for that problem. It’s a headlamp. Don’t go out in the wilderness without one! Water Filter - Survival Tools

7. Portable Water Filter

The portable survival water purifier helps campers or backpackers use whatever water source they can find and turn it into drinkable water. To have a trusted water source, you must carry the water with you or have a portable water purifier, which cleans any water, include sea and stagnant water, in just a few minutes. This way a person does not need to carry heavy water bottles, especially when they are in the wilderness for several days.

Filed Under: Survival Gear

Why You Should Love The Humble P-38 Can Opener

March 8, 2024 by Seasoned Citizen Prepper

I have had a very frustrating last couple of weeks with can openers. My “good” $10 hand held, comfortable to operate, can opener from Wally World lasted less than 2 years – whatever happened to quality?

Right in the middle of opening a can the gears stripped. Fine, I’m a prepper, I have another little metal hand held can opener.

p38 can opener for preppers and survivalWell, that lasted about 3 days and the gears stripped on that. So I went down to the pantry and brought up my third backup metal can opener from the dollar store and that didn’t even get through one can!

I had bought my husband a P-38 for his key chain a while back and ended up using that to open the can. The next day I went to the grocery store and bought a “better” can opener for $4, which lasted a week before the gears stripped on that one!

Now imagine being in a crisis situation where those cans of food are absolutely critical and you don’t have the option of just going out and buying another can opener – not good.

So, this last week I bought 10 P-38s at our local Army Surplus/prepper store – Minnesota Joes. Less than 60 cents apiece, these are standard GI issue.

The ex-military guy at the store explained that the name came from the number of turns it took to open a standard C-ration (or was it K?). Anyway, it comes with a handy little hole on the edge to put on a keychain and folds flat. Stick it on the can as shown above, catching the lip of the can in the cut out, and rock it back and forth and the can will open.

The blade can be re-sharpened and is handy in the kitchen to cut bags open with. My only complaint is the size, with my old arthritic hands. BUT it opens the cans with no gears stripping!

Now, if your preps include manual can openers (especially from the dollar store), and you are using an electric can opener because it is easier on the hands, I suggest you actually use your manual can openers and see how they hold up for you. If you become frustrated like I did, the humble P-38 may be an option for you as well.

There is very little worse than having a whole pantry of canned goods and not being able to open any of it except with a metal chisel, hammer and a strong likelihood of injuring yourself.

Filed Under: Survival Gear

What If There’s a Natural Gas Leak in Your Neighborhood?

March 8, 2024 by Seasoned Citizen Prepper

Here is a real life challenge that I personally experienced and what started me prepping:

There is construction going on in your neighborhood. You are woken up in the middle of the night by a loud bang and the house shakes. Within a few minutes you hear sirens approaching.

Then a loud banging on your door and you are told to evacuate NOW. And asked where the natural gas shut off to your house is.

What do you do?

When this happened, my husband was out of town with our one credit card. I had the grand kids overnight and was going to take them to school in the morning.

I didn’t know where the gas shut off was on the house.

It was so rushed that all I had on was my cotton nightgown, robe and slippers and the kids only had their PJ’s with no footwear. I couldn’t find the cat and the dog just jumped into the car.

I had my purse and a couple of dollars. The checkbook we keep in the office drawer. And only a quarter tank of gas, not enough to get me 120 miles to my sister’s place. I don’t have the keys to my son’s house and they were out of town. And no cell phone as we share one and my husband had it.

I remembered the policeman saying that the community center would probably be opened for evacuees.

I can’t tell you how scared and confused I was, it was like a nightmare. I drove to the community center and waited until the Red Cross came and opened it all the while trying to calm the grand kids.

There was confusion at the community center as they had to turn the heat up to warm it. We sat huddled on chairs with blankets around us when they finally brought them. The whole neighborhood had been evacuated, but only some neighbors were at the center.

Mid-afternoon, still in our night clothes we were allowed to go back home. The grand kids missed school. I had no leash in the car and the dog couldn’t hold it that long, so it was a smelly ride back home and a lot of scrubbing to clean up the car.

Everything turned out fine and they contained the natural gas leak and no one was hurt. But I vowed never to be that unprepared again, so that is why I’m now a prepper.

Okay folks! How would you have fared if that had happened to you last night?

  • Do you know where your natural gas shutoff is on the outside of your home?
  • Do you have adequate gas in your car to reach a safe location?
  • Do you have a bug out bag with extra clothes, cash, and medications (don’t forget about alternative medications like Fish Mox that you can stockpile without a prescription)?
  • What about the grand kids, do you have extras for them if you ever babysit?
  • Do you have pets with provisions for them?

Filed Under: Real Stories

How To Can Meat (Beef, Chicken, and Fish)

March 8, 2024 by Seasoned Citizen Prepper

Just when you thought it was safe to put those canners away…no, indeed! Canning is not a “season”. Look for sales on your favorite meats, and don’t worry about freezer space or power out situations.

Let’s get canning!

Remember: ANY FOOD THAT CONTAINS ANY AMOUNT OF MEAT MUST BE PROCESSED AS MEAT, REGARDLESS HOW MUCH OF ANYTHING ELSE IT CONTAINS.

It is possible, of course, to cold pack meats, but I do not recommend it and do not practice such. It is important, IMHO, that meat be at least partially cooked because you don’t want some of that “gunk” that will cook out of meat in your canned food products; you want them ready to eat. This “gunk” also frequently gets under the cap while processing and prevents a seal. It’s also safer practice to hot pack meat than it is to raw pack meat, so, let’s practice “safe canning”!

I use a dial gauge pressure canner. The other type is a weighted gauge. All canning instructions are given using metal caps and rings, not Tattlers.

Even pre-cooked meat will expand while processing. Keep that in mind when packing jars.

When using commercial products, watch for MSG (Monosodium Glutamate) in these mixes  and broths folks – they’ve love to put ‘em there! I use only brands that do not add MSG. You do not want neurotoxic food, not now and certainly not post-IHTF!

How about some ready to eat chicken or chicken soup? My idea of fast food!

There are two or three ways I like to can chicken. You will do it your way, as you should, based on what you like, but here’s how I do it.

Chicken Soup

For soup, allow one large or two small chicken breasts (about one pound meat) per quart, half of that per pint.

You can never have too much home-made chicken soup on hand. Sometimes, it just tastes good; but when you or someone you love is sick, this is just what you need to give the healing process a helping hand.

We like mostly just white meat, so I usually buy breasts on sale and remove the skins and excess fat.

Here’s how I can it:

  1. While you’re prepping meat, CHECK YOUR JARS – run a finger lightly around the lip, making sure there are no “fleabites” or damage.
  2. Then, put jars in dishwasher (if you have one) and wash; keep in dishwasher to keep hot. Or, wash by hand in hot, soapy water, rinse in hot water, and keep on cookie trays in 250 deg. F (121 deg. C) oven to keep jars hot and clean until ready to pack. Always prepare at least two extra jars – “stuff happens”!
  3. OK, so, I’ve removed all the skin from my chicken, trimmed any excess fat, and placed it all in a big, deep pot.
  4. Now I add my “Cajun Trinity” – chopped celery, onion, and garlic galore! Never too much garlic! It’s very healing – a super food, “anti-inflammatory”. Also chopped carrots (2 large will do – or several small ones) and 3 large bay leaves.  Iodized sea salt (iodine is an important nutrient to the human body, and we are losing it) and cracked pepper to taste. Cover with good clean, water, and bring to a boil.
  5. When chicken starts boiling, turn heat down to medium and cook, covered, until chicken is tender – at least an hour for a pot this large.
  6. Remove lid; allow chicken to cool a bit. Remove bay leaves before packing jars.
  7. Remove meat from broth; allow meat to cool and hand-pick bones.
  8. If you have pets, cook (you can pressure cook them) those picked out chicken bones until they are super soft; allow to cool; grind up or mash (they’ve very soft by now) and feed to pets. It is an excellent source of calcium to strengthen their bones, but, never, ever give just the chicken bones to a pet – they will splinter in their intestines and cause serious health problems, leading to surgery or death. People can eat this, too, BTW, as a ground form, only (for the same reasons).
  9. Strain liquid to remove “gunky stuff”. Use this liquid for hot packing after filling jars with meat but always have extra broth standing by, just in case.
  10. Break, tear or cut meat into bite-size pieces and drop back in hot liquid.
  11. Have a medium pot of water boiling at this point for caps and rings.
  12. Start heating water in pressure canner, but keep heat on low for now.
  13. Hot pack in pint or quart jars. Wipe lids twice: the first time with a piece of fresh, clean paper towel dipped in hot water (kitchen gloves recommended!); the second time with clean paper towel and white vinegar (to remove any lurking fat residue).
  14. Boil caps 30 seconds and place; boil rings 30 seconds and place. Boiling much longer may result in loosening or boiling off of rubber liner to caps, no matter what you see on blog sites, and now they will not seal.
  15. Tighten lids, then check to make sure they aren’t too tight (a common cause of losing liquid in processing jars).
  16. Place hot jars down inside hot water of pressure canner, but remember, temps can’t vary too much (temp of jars and water in canner), else you’ll get thermal shock breakage.
  17. Put lid on canner; on medium heat, cook until the steam spews out of vent pipe; as soon as it starts to spew out at a noticeable rate, time for ten (10) minutes; this is the important  “10 minute tornado”. This will remove excess air from pressure canner, allowing it to reach and maintain proper internal temp for safe food canning. If you are using a weighted gauge (such as a Mirro with only 5/10/15 lb. increments), this is not necessary, as it will vent out while cooking. It is ALWAYS necessary with a dial gauge.
  18. After 10 minutes, place your weight on vent pipe. Bring to temp over medium to medium-high heat (I don’t know your stove or how hot it cooks) and hold it there; start timing as soon as it reaches proper pressure. If at any time it drops below the required pressure, bring it back by turning up heat just slightly, and start timing again. Just watch it so it doesn’t have opportunity to drop below temp for very long. You don’t want food cooked to mush. If you get too much pressure, GENTLY release a little using the weight (move it slightly to release pressure) until it reads correctly. Do not get in a hurry in releasing pressure – this can result in extreme temp fluctuations, which forces liquids out of jars.
  19. Process jars 10 lbs. pressure 75 minutes for pints, 90 minutes for quarts, if under 1000 ft. altitude; over, add 2 lbs. pressure to 2000 ft; over that, add 2 more lbs. pressure (14 lbs.) and use same processing times for pints/quarts.
  20. Allow canner to cool on its own (pressure drops to zero on gauge). Remove lid. Wait 5 minutes. Using jar lift tool, remove jars and place on baking racks with towels underneath to cool. When completely cooled (at least 2 hours) test lids for seal (tap outer edges of metal for sound). If any do not seal, refrigerate and use within 7-10 days, or reprocess, cleaning mouth of jar thoroughly and using a NEW boiled metal cap.
  21. When jars are cooled, remove rings, wash in hot, soapy water and rinse in hot water. Return to racks to air dry, but I like to dry top of caps off with paper toweling to prevent water rings on cap. When dry, mark contents and date, replace rings (optional, but I do it) and store away.

Give yourself a “Well done!”

DO NOT add any kind of starch (noodles, rice, etc.) until you are ready to serve. Cook starches –  noodles, rice etc. separately, while you are heating up soup; add pre-cooked starch food (while still hot) to heated soup and simmer together on low heat 10 minutes; then serve. Starch (noodles, rice, etc.) will turn to paste in processing!

Roasted Chicken

Canned, roasted chicken has a better flavor than merely “boiled” and is more versatile or recipes.

Allow about three (3) large chicken breasts per quart jar; half of that for pints.

I have an 18 quart Nesco Roaster/Oven. I like to use it because you can cook a large amount of food in it at one time and it does not use as much “fossil fuel” as some other methods of cooking.

I have discovered that I can roast up to 40 lbs. of chicken breast at one time, stacked in two layers, in this roaster; I just have to remember to put a wire rack between the layers; the rack actually lays directly on the bottom layer, but it still does the job.

Set roaster to 350 deg. F (moderate temp). If I did the math correctly, that should equal 177 deg. Celsius (350 – 32 = 318 x 5 = 1590 divided by 9 = 176.66 (177) C – for our international readers.

If you don’t have one of these Nesco roasters, just use your oven.

  1. Put a small amount of water in bottom of roaster. Put bottom rack in place (must use the rack to prevent meat from cooking to bottom of roaster); remove all skins and place first layer of chicken.
  2. Season meat to taste. I like to combine granulated roasted garlic with iodized sea salt and a bit of fresh cracked peppercorn mélange (combined colors of peppercorns), and just a bit of paprika.
  3. Place middle rack on top of this layer of chicken, and place second layer of chicken breasts, skins removed, of course. Season this layer of meat, also.
  4. Place lid. If you have two holes on top (I do), I like to plug them. I use two aluminum baking potato stakes, one dropped into each; they don’t seal completely, but, close enough; I do not want liquids evaporating from cooker.
  5. I will cook these breasts until tender, about 2 hours, depending on size of chicken pieces, how packed the cooker is, etc.
  6. While you’re prepping meat, put jars in dishwasher (if you have one) and wash; keep in dishwasher to keep hot. Or, wash by hand in hot, soapy water, rinse in hot water, and keep on cookie trays in 250 deg. F (121 deg. C) oven to keep jars hot and clean until ready to pack.
  7. Allow meat to cool; strain liquid; add more water, as needed, and use this wonderful, seasoned broth to pack your chicken. Also have prepared chicken broth standing by, in case you don’t have enough from roaster.
  8. Heat water in medium saucepan for boiling caps and rings; start heat under pressure canner, but keep heat low for now.
  9. Pack meat into hot jars, leaving 1 plus 1/2 inch (1 1/2 inch)  MINIMUM head space. I know – most books and sites tell you one inch. Even pre-cooked meat will expand while processing. Trust me. Allow 1 plus 1/2 inch or better for ALL meats.
  10. Now add broth to just over top of meat (one-half inch). You should NOW have one inch headspace from the top of the broth to the top rim of the canning jar.
  11. Clean the rims of your jars twice: first with hot water, then with white vinegar and a piece of clean paper towel for each swipe – you do not want to transfer fat or meat bits, and, using the same towel for all jars could do this.
  12. Place your boiled caps (30 second boil). Place your boiled rings. Tighten rings and then loosen a bit, if too tight. Remember: lids screwed too tightly are a common cause of loss of liquid in canning. But you don’t want them too loose, either.
  13. Place hot jars in hot water, but watch that temps are not too far apart: thermal shock breakage issue.
  14. Put lid on canner; on medium heat, cook until the steam spews out of vent pipe; as soon as it starts to spew out at a noticeable rate, time for ten (10) minutes; this is the important  “10 minute tornado”. This will remove excess air from pressure canner, allowing it to reach and maintain proper internal temp for safe food canning. FAILURE TO TAKE THIS STEP CAN LEAD TO IMPROPERLY CANNED FOOD. If you are using a weighted gauge (such as a Mirro with 5/10/15 lb. increments), this is not necessary, as it will vent out while cooking. It is ALWAYS necessary with a dial gauge, no matter what you are canning.
  15. After 10 minutes, place your weight on vent pipe. Bring to temp over medium to medium-high heat (I don’t know your stove or how hot it cooks) and hold it there; start timing as soon as it reaches proper pressure. If at any time it drops below the required pressure, bring it back by turning up heat just slightly, and start timing again. Just watch it so it doesn’t have opportunity to drop below temp for very long. You don’t want food cooked to mush. If you get too much pressure, GENTLY release a little using the weight (move it slightly to release pressure) until it reads correctly. Do not get in a hurry in releasing pressure – this can result in extreme temp fluctuations, which forces liquids out of jars.
  16. If pints, process at 10 lbs. pressure 75 minutes if under 1000 ft. altitude.  If over 1000 ft. altitude, process @ 12 lbs. pressure for 75 minutes for PINTS. If QUARTS, process at 10 lbs. for 90 minutes below 1000 ft; 12 lbs. for 90 minutes above. Over 2000, add 2 more lbs. pressure, same timing.
  17. ALWAYS allow your pressure canner to drop back to “zero” on its own. Don’t try to force it. When completely cooled (gauge reads zero), open canner; wait 5 minutes before removing jars (that water is still very, very hot and you don’t want to disturb jars just yet).
  18. After 5 minutes, remove jars from canner, allow jars to cool thoroughly.
  19. Check for seal when cooled (at least 2 hours in most environments).
  20. Remove metal rings when cool; wash jars and rings in hot, soapy water and rinse thoroughly in hot water. Return to racks and let air dry completely – several hours or even overnight. Replace metal rings. I like to wipe lids dry with paper towel after washing, rinsing, and returning to cooling racks – this prevents water rings from forming on caps, which makes it harder to write on them.
  21. Write contents and date on top of metal lids. Pack and store. Give yourself a “Well done!”.

Roasted chicken is highly versatile and you can do many things with it! My boys love “Chicken Enchilada Casserole”, which I have posted under recipes, over at the Forum.

Beef

There’s just not much better than popping open a jar of sliced, seasoned sirloin tip and turning it into a quick Po’Boy, or Manhattan, or whatever you like…and chuck roast, ground beef,  or roast beef have so many uses, where to start?!

Do have extra beef broth standing by, in case you don’t make enough for all jars in the cooking process.

Sirloin Tip Roast

For sirloin tip roast, I simply roast it as always, so it is “ready to eat”. I prefer to slow roast, and very often use my big Nesco roaster, as it uses a lot less energy and doesn’t heat up the kitchen as much as my big oven.

Once it is roasted to suit me, I simply slice it, pack it to 1and 1/2 (1 1/2) inches headspace, add liquid/gravy to cover, leaving one inch headspace, clean jar lips thoroughly, cap and process.

I use the liquid created in cooking, which I filter, then add my favorite ready-to-use gravy mix and water. You don’t even need to cook the gravy mix addition – just add it to jars; it will cook and thicken during processing, after which it’s just “heat and eat”!!

I usually buy a 10-12 roast, serve a meal with it, and can the leftovers; I usually get about 5 quarts leftover.

Watch for MSG (Monosodium Glutamate) in these mixes and broths folks – they’ve love to put ‘em there! I use only brands that do not add MSG.

Ground Beef

  1. Allow about 2 pounds raw ground beef per quart; 1 pound per pint (m/l). I always pre-cook ground beef; if you tried to pack this raw and then process it, you would have one big clump and would have trouble getting it out of the jar, I do believe.
  2. Brown your ground chuck in a skillet and drain fat off.  Some people can ground beef with no liquid; I prefer to pack mine in beef broth; this broth can be used later as a gravy base or saved for another project, or just cooked down, as in taco meat. I personally do not like dry meat, so, I use the wet-pack method.
  3. Process like any other beef.

Chuck roast

  1. Allow about 2.5 pounds raw chuck per quart, about half that per pint. I like to cut it up into bite-size pieces, cover with water, bring to boil. Cook JUST until it is just browned throughout – no pink left in the meat. It will finish cooking during processing.
  2. While you’re prepping meat, put jars in dishwasher (if you have one) and wash; keep in dishwasher to keep hot. Or, wash by hand in hot, soapy water, rinse in hot water, and keep on cookie trays in 250 deg. F (121 deg. C) oven to keep jars hot and clean until ready to pack.
  3. Skim that gunky mess of the top – DO NOT can without removing this first. This stuff will get in between the rim and the cap and prevent seal on many of your jars – trust me when I tell you this. Strain broth before packing. Besides, you’ll never win a blue ribbon at the fair with that mess in your jars! ; )
  4. After straining the liquid – assuming you have not yet seasoned it (which you could, if you want), season to taste (or, add seasonings to jars, if you prefer) and pack your meats. Meat packs to within 1 and 1/2 (1 1/2) inches of jar top (headspace); now add your strained liquids that you made when boiling to cover meat by one-half (1/2) inch, which should give you the prerequisite one inch (1 inch) headspace.
  5. Clean your jars twice: once with a piece of clean paper towel dipped in hot water; and the second time with a piece of clean paper towel with white vinegar. If there is any fat residue on the lid, the white vinegar will get it.
  6. Place your boiled caps and boiled rings (30 second boil is sufficient) on jars – remember: this boil is not to sterilize – that will happen in the pressure canner – this boil is to make sure your caps and rings are clean and have no residue that might prevent a seal; place your jars (which are hot) down in water of pressure canner that should also be about the same temperature hot (remember what I taught you about thermal shock breakage? There cannot be a great difference between temp of jars and temp of water you set them down in).
  7. Put lid on canner; on medium heat, cook until the steam spews out of vent pipe; as soon as it starts to spew out at a noticeable rate, time for ten (10) minutes; this is the important  “10 minute tornado”. This will remove excess air from pressure canner, allowing it to reach and maintain proper internal temp for safe food canning. FAILURE TO TAKE THIS STEP CAN LEAD TO IMPROPERLY CANNED FOOD. If you are using a weighted gauge (such as a Mirro with only 5/10/15 lb. increments), this is not necessary, as it will vent out while cooking. It is ALWAYS necessary with a dial gauge, no matter what you are canning.
  8. After 10 minutes, place your weight on vent pipe. Bring to temp over medium to medium-high heat (I don’t know your stove or how hot it cooks) and hold it there; start timing as soon as it reaches proper pressure. If at any time it drops below the required pressure, bring it back by turning up heat just slightly, and start timing again. Just watch it so it doesn’t have opportunity to drop below temp for very long. You don’t want food cooked to mush. If you get too much pressure, GENTLY release a little using the weight (move it slightly to release pressure) until it reads correctly. Do not get in a hurry in releasing pressure – this can result in extreme temp fluctuations, which forces liquids out of jars.
  9. Process like any other meat: pints 75 minutes if 1000 ft. altitude or below @ 10 lbs. pressure; 12 lbs. if over 1000 and less than 2000; over 2000, 14 lbs. pressure for 75 minutes. Quarts: 90 minutes using same pressure guidelines.
  10. Allow canner to cool on its own. Remove lid. Wait 5 minutes. Transfer jars to cooling racks on towels (to catch mess). When completely cool (at least 2 hours) test lids: remember – tap metal lids around outside edges – NOT in centers as many web sites tell you. Remember why? I mentioned that in earlier teachings.
  11. If some did not seal, refrigerate and use within a few days (7-10). Or, reprocess them, cleaning jar lids thoroughly and a NEW metal cap. Never reuse a metal cap, other than for storing dry goods.
  12. Wash your jars; allow to dry. Mark lids with contents and date and store away!

Give yourself another  “Well done!”. You’ve earned it!

Fish

It is possible to can just about any meat. Some will, however, give better results than others.

For our fishermen and fisherwomen, here are instructions for canning fish:

Canning Fish (Unsmoked):

  1. Cut fish into jar length pieces, LEAVING SKINS ON.
  2. Soak your fish in a salty brine for 1 hour. 1 cup of salt to 1 gallon of water.
  3. While fish is soaking gather all materials needed. Start your water heating in your canner.
  4. Drain fish for 10 minutes. You want to be sure it is well drained.
  5. Pack fish into hot jars,(pints or half pints) skin sides out next to the glass.
  6. Leave a 1 inch head space. Do not add liquid.
  7. Process using same directions as any other meat, for the altitude where you are canning. Not less than 10 lbs. pressures for 90 minutes quarts, 75 minutes pints. Adjust for higher altitudes.

Canning Smoked Fish

The only difference between canning regular fish and smoked fish is that you will need to add more water to your canner – make sure it has at least four (4) quarts water before beginning the canning process (in other words, smoked fish needs to be nearly submerged for canning). I suppose this is because it is smoked, and, therefore, already a bit dried out.

A FINAL NOTE:  Even if you are not going to do a lot of canning NOW, get everything you need: knowledge (“how to”), at least one good book (Ball Blue Book of Canning); pressure canner; water bath canner; jar lifter (more than one!); jars, caps, rings, etc. Be ready for the day when you MUST preserve your own food without electricity.

Filed Under: Food Preservation

Economic Collapse Preparation 101 – 20 Questions To Get You Prepared

March 8, 2024 by Seasoned Citizen Prepper

As I look back over my own life and through the generations as far as our family is concerned, I think our biggest risk is not a collapse of the power grid, nor TEOTWAWKI, but financial hardship due to loss of employment, loss of a working partner, changing social circumstances or a slow, insidious reduction of buying power at a time when there is low income. So with this in mind here is a quiz:

  1. Do you have a full store cupboard to see you through a bad patch of three months? Twelve months? If you need some ideas or help getting going, check out this complete survival food list.
  2. Do you have a vegetable garden that produces enough fruit and vegetables to be useful?
  3. Can you survive using only one third of the power that others with the same size family do? Do you know how much power and water you use daily? Do you know how many units of power you use and how much it costs you to oven roast a meal, do a load of washing, use the slow cooker?
  4. Do you have solar panels or other ways of producing power for your use? Can you use your solar/other power if the grid goes down?
  5. Do you have access to alternative fuels to keep warm in winter if you cannot afford electricity, oil or gas? If you have to chop wood, are you fit enough/well enough to do it? If it is really hot where you live, do you know how to keep cool without an air conditioner?
  6. Do you have a form of cooking that is energy efficient depending on where you live? Eg: solar oven or the equivalent of a hay box for cooking in?
  7. Do you know how long your towels, sheets, tea towels and dish cloths last with normal use? Two years? Ten years? Do you have at least 20 years supply of linen for your current household?
  8. Do you know where you can buy second hand goods at cents in the dollar? Are you well known and well thought of there, so that if something comes in you are looking for they might put it aside for you?
  9. Can you make your own soap, washing powder, personal cleansers and moisturizers and do you have a 12 month supply of washing soda, borax, bicarb soda, lye, oil, and essential oils?
  10. Do you have a system to dry your clothes if you cannot afford to use your drier?
  11. Do you live within walking distance or cycling distance of the local shops, the library and medical facilities? Are you fit enough to do it?
  12. Do you grow your own herbs and know how to use them to meet your health needs?
  13. Have you weaned yourself off medically prescribed medications by improving your health? Or do you have 12 months supply of medications? Do you know how to improve your health after a medical diagnosis without using expensive medications? Do you know the risks of using medical and alternative approaches to managing your health?
  14. Have you paid off your mortgage or alternatively have 12 months of payments aside for the mortgage or rent?
  15. If you use a credit card do you pay it off completely each month?
  16. Do you have sufficient money put away to pay for the next 12 months of insurances, utilities and local government taxes/rates/levies?
  17. Do you have emergency money put aside for unexpected expenses such as a car crash, unexpected medical expenses or a suicidal child ringing up from the other side of the country or world and you need to get to them?
  18. Are your hobbies reasonably priced? That is, can you scale them back in times of acute financial shortage while still being able to enjoy them?
  19. Are you increasing your employment skill sets? If you are retired you still need to be increasing your skills or keeping them current, so that you are perceived as being useful in your community rather than a burden.
  20. Do you value your possessions and keep them in good order, so they will last longer before you have to replace them?

This is supposed only to be a start. What other questions can you be thinking about?

Filed Under: Finances

  • « Go to Previous Page
  • Page 1
  • Interim pages omitted …
  • Page 33
  • Page 34
  • Page 35
  • Page 36
  • Page 37
  • Interim pages omitted …
  • Page 44
  • Go to Next Page »

Copyright © 2025 · Genesis Sample on Genesis Framework · WordPress · Log in

  • Privacy Policy