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Survival Food

How To Can Meat (Beef, Chicken, and Fish)

March 8, 2024 by Seasoned Citizen Prepper

Just when you thought it was safe to put those canners away…no, indeed! Canning is not a “season”. Look for sales on your favorite meats, and don’t worry about freezer space or power out situations.

Let’s get canning!

Remember: ANY FOOD THAT CONTAINS ANY AMOUNT OF MEAT MUST BE PROCESSED AS MEAT, REGARDLESS HOW MUCH OF ANYTHING ELSE IT CONTAINS.

It is possible, of course, to cold pack meats, but I do not recommend it and do not practice such. It is important, IMHO, that meat be at least partially cooked because you don’t want some of that “gunk” that will cook out of meat in your canned food products; you want them ready to eat. This “gunk” also frequently gets under the cap while processing and prevents a seal. It’s also safer practice to hot pack meat than it is to raw pack meat, so, let’s practice “safe canning”!

I use a dial gauge pressure canner. The other type is a weighted gauge. All canning instructions are given using metal caps and rings, not Tattlers.

Even pre-cooked meat will expand while processing. Keep that in mind when packing jars.

When using commercial products, watch for MSG (Monosodium Glutamate) in these mixes  and broths folks – they’ve love to put ‘em there! I use only brands that do not add MSG. You do not want neurotoxic food, not now and certainly not post-IHTF!

How about some ready to eat chicken or chicken soup? My idea of fast food!

There are two or three ways I like to can chicken. You will do it your way, as you should, based on what you like, but here’s how I do it.

Chicken Soup

For soup, allow one large or two small chicken breasts (about one pound meat) per quart, half of that per pint.

You can never have too much home-made chicken soup on hand. Sometimes, it just tastes good; but when you or someone you love is sick, this is just what you need to give the healing process a helping hand.

We like mostly just white meat, so I usually buy breasts on sale and remove the skins and excess fat.

Here’s how I can it:

  1. While you’re prepping meat, CHECK YOUR JARS – run a finger lightly around the lip, making sure there are no “fleabites” or damage.
  2. Then, put jars in dishwasher (if you have one) and wash; keep in dishwasher to keep hot. Or, wash by hand in hot, soapy water, rinse in hot water, and keep on cookie trays in 250 deg. F (121 deg. C) oven to keep jars hot and clean until ready to pack. Always prepare at least two extra jars – “stuff happens”!
  3. OK, so, I’ve removed all the skin from my chicken, trimmed any excess fat, and placed it all in a big, deep pot.
  4. Now I add my “Cajun Trinity” – chopped celery, onion, and garlic galore! Never too much garlic! It’s very healing – a super food, “anti-inflammatory”. Also chopped carrots (2 large will do – or several small ones) and 3 large bay leaves.  Iodized sea salt (iodine is an important nutrient to the human body, and we are losing it) and cracked pepper to taste. Cover with good clean, water, and bring to a boil.
  5. When chicken starts boiling, turn heat down to medium and cook, covered, until chicken is tender – at least an hour for a pot this large.
  6. Remove lid; allow chicken to cool a bit. Remove bay leaves before packing jars.
  7. Remove meat from broth; allow meat to cool and hand-pick bones.
  8. If you have pets, cook (you can pressure cook them) those picked out chicken bones until they are super soft; allow to cool; grind up or mash (they’ve very soft by now) and feed to pets. It is an excellent source of calcium to strengthen their bones, but, never, ever give just the chicken bones to a pet – they will splinter in their intestines and cause serious health problems, leading to surgery or death. People can eat this, too, BTW, as a ground form, only (for the same reasons).
  9. Strain liquid to remove “gunky stuff”. Use this liquid for hot packing after filling jars with meat but always have extra broth standing by, just in case.
  10. Break, tear or cut meat into bite-size pieces and drop back in hot liquid.
  11. Have a medium pot of water boiling at this point for caps and rings.
  12. Start heating water in pressure canner, but keep heat on low for now.
  13. Hot pack in pint or quart jars. Wipe lids twice: the first time with a piece of fresh, clean paper towel dipped in hot water (kitchen gloves recommended!); the second time with clean paper towel and white vinegar (to remove any lurking fat residue).
  14. Boil caps 30 seconds and place; boil rings 30 seconds and place. Boiling much longer may result in loosening or boiling off of rubber liner to caps, no matter what you see on blog sites, and now they will not seal.
  15. Tighten lids, then check to make sure they aren’t too tight (a common cause of losing liquid in processing jars).
  16. Place hot jars down inside hot water of pressure canner, but remember, temps can’t vary too much (temp of jars and water in canner), else you’ll get thermal shock breakage.
  17. Put lid on canner; on medium heat, cook until the steam spews out of vent pipe; as soon as it starts to spew out at a noticeable rate, time for ten (10) minutes; this is the important  “10 minute tornado”. This will remove excess air from pressure canner, allowing it to reach and maintain proper internal temp for safe food canning. If you are using a weighted gauge (such as a Mirro with only 5/10/15 lb. increments), this is not necessary, as it will vent out while cooking. It is ALWAYS necessary with a dial gauge.
  18. After 10 minutes, place your weight on vent pipe. Bring to temp over medium to medium-high heat (I don’t know your stove or how hot it cooks) and hold it there; start timing as soon as it reaches proper pressure. If at any time it drops below the required pressure, bring it back by turning up heat just slightly, and start timing again. Just watch it so it doesn’t have opportunity to drop below temp for very long. You don’t want food cooked to mush. If you get too much pressure, GENTLY release a little using the weight (move it slightly to release pressure) until it reads correctly. Do not get in a hurry in releasing pressure – this can result in extreme temp fluctuations, which forces liquids out of jars.
  19. Process jars 10 lbs. pressure 75 minutes for pints, 90 minutes for quarts, if under 1000 ft. altitude; over, add 2 lbs. pressure to 2000 ft; over that, add 2 more lbs. pressure (14 lbs.) and use same processing times for pints/quarts.
  20. Allow canner to cool on its own (pressure drops to zero on gauge). Remove lid. Wait 5 minutes. Using jar lift tool, remove jars and place on baking racks with towels underneath to cool. When completely cooled (at least 2 hours) test lids for seal (tap outer edges of metal for sound). If any do not seal, refrigerate and use within 7-10 days, or reprocess, cleaning mouth of jar thoroughly and using a NEW boiled metal cap.
  21. When jars are cooled, remove rings, wash in hot, soapy water and rinse in hot water. Return to racks to air dry, but I like to dry top of caps off with paper toweling to prevent water rings on cap. When dry, mark contents and date, replace rings (optional, but I do it) and store away.

Give yourself a “Well done!”

DO NOT add any kind of starch (noodles, rice, etc.) until you are ready to serve. Cook starches –  noodles, rice etc. separately, while you are heating up soup; add pre-cooked starch food (while still hot) to heated soup and simmer together on low heat 10 minutes; then serve. Starch (noodles, rice, etc.) will turn to paste in processing!

Roasted Chicken

Canned, roasted chicken has a better flavor than merely “boiled” and is more versatile or recipes.

Allow about three (3) large chicken breasts per quart jar; half of that for pints.

I have an 18 quart Nesco Roaster/Oven. I like to use it because you can cook a large amount of food in it at one time and it does not use as much “fossil fuel” as some other methods of cooking.

I have discovered that I can roast up to 40 lbs. of chicken breast at one time, stacked in two layers, in this roaster; I just have to remember to put a wire rack between the layers; the rack actually lays directly on the bottom layer, but it still does the job.

Set roaster to 350 deg. F (moderate temp). If I did the math correctly, that should equal 177 deg. Celsius (350 – 32 = 318 x 5 = 1590 divided by 9 = 176.66 (177) C – for our international readers.

If you don’t have one of these Nesco roasters, just use your oven.

  1. Put a small amount of water in bottom of roaster. Put bottom rack in place (must use the rack to prevent meat from cooking to bottom of roaster); remove all skins and place first layer of chicken.
  2. Season meat to taste. I like to combine granulated roasted garlic with iodized sea salt and a bit of fresh cracked peppercorn mélange (combined colors of peppercorns), and just a bit of paprika.
  3. Place middle rack on top of this layer of chicken, and place second layer of chicken breasts, skins removed, of course. Season this layer of meat, also.
  4. Place lid. If you have two holes on top (I do), I like to plug them. I use two aluminum baking potato stakes, one dropped into each; they don’t seal completely, but, close enough; I do not want liquids evaporating from cooker.
  5. I will cook these breasts until tender, about 2 hours, depending on size of chicken pieces, how packed the cooker is, etc.
  6. While you’re prepping meat, put jars in dishwasher (if you have one) and wash; keep in dishwasher to keep hot. Or, wash by hand in hot, soapy water, rinse in hot water, and keep on cookie trays in 250 deg. F (121 deg. C) oven to keep jars hot and clean until ready to pack.
  7. Allow meat to cool; strain liquid; add more water, as needed, and use this wonderful, seasoned broth to pack your chicken. Also have prepared chicken broth standing by, in case you don’t have enough from roaster.
  8. Heat water in medium saucepan for boiling caps and rings; start heat under pressure canner, but keep heat low for now.
  9. Pack meat into hot jars, leaving 1 plus 1/2 inch (1 1/2 inch)  MINIMUM head space. I know – most books and sites tell you one inch. Even pre-cooked meat will expand while processing. Trust me. Allow 1 plus 1/2 inch or better for ALL meats.
  10. Now add broth to just over top of meat (one-half inch). You should NOW have one inch headspace from the top of the broth to the top rim of the canning jar.
  11. Clean the rims of your jars twice: first with hot water, then with white vinegar and a piece of clean paper towel for each swipe – you do not want to transfer fat or meat bits, and, using the same towel for all jars could do this.
  12. Place your boiled caps (30 second boil). Place your boiled rings. Tighten rings and then loosen a bit, if too tight. Remember: lids screwed too tightly are a common cause of loss of liquid in canning. But you don’t want them too loose, either.
  13. Place hot jars in hot water, but watch that temps are not too far apart: thermal shock breakage issue.
  14. Put lid on canner; on medium heat, cook until the steam spews out of vent pipe; as soon as it starts to spew out at a noticeable rate, time for ten (10) minutes; this is the important  “10 minute tornado”. This will remove excess air from pressure canner, allowing it to reach and maintain proper internal temp for safe food canning. FAILURE TO TAKE THIS STEP CAN LEAD TO IMPROPERLY CANNED FOOD. If you are using a weighted gauge (such as a Mirro with 5/10/15 lb. increments), this is not necessary, as it will vent out while cooking. It is ALWAYS necessary with a dial gauge, no matter what you are canning.
  15. After 10 minutes, place your weight on vent pipe. Bring to temp over medium to medium-high heat (I don’t know your stove or how hot it cooks) and hold it there; start timing as soon as it reaches proper pressure. If at any time it drops below the required pressure, bring it back by turning up heat just slightly, and start timing again. Just watch it so it doesn’t have opportunity to drop below temp for very long. You don’t want food cooked to mush. If you get too much pressure, GENTLY release a little using the weight (move it slightly to release pressure) until it reads correctly. Do not get in a hurry in releasing pressure – this can result in extreme temp fluctuations, which forces liquids out of jars.
  16. If pints, process at 10 lbs. pressure 75 minutes if under 1000 ft. altitude.  If over 1000 ft. altitude, process @ 12 lbs. pressure for 75 minutes for PINTS. If QUARTS, process at 10 lbs. for 90 minutes below 1000 ft; 12 lbs. for 90 minutes above. Over 2000, add 2 more lbs. pressure, same timing.
  17. ALWAYS allow your pressure canner to drop back to “zero” on its own. Don’t try to force it. When completely cooled (gauge reads zero), open canner; wait 5 minutes before removing jars (that water is still very, very hot and you don’t want to disturb jars just yet).
  18. After 5 minutes, remove jars from canner, allow jars to cool thoroughly.
  19. Check for seal when cooled (at least 2 hours in most environments).
  20. Remove metal rings when cool; wash jars and rings in hot, soapy water and rinse thoroughly in hot water. Return to racks and let air dry completely – several hours or even overnight. Replace metal rings. I like to wipe lids dry with paper towel after washing, rinsing, and returning to cooling racks – this prevents water rings from forming on caps, which makes it harder to write on them.
  21. Write contents and date on top of metal lids. Pack and store. Give yourself a “Well done!”.

Roasted chicken is highly versatile and you can do many things with it! My boys love “Chicken Enchilada Casserole”, which I have posted under recipes, over at the Forum.

Beef

There’s just not much better than popping open a jar of sliced, seasoned sirloin tip and turning it into a quick Po’Boy, or Manhattan, or whatever you like…and chuck roast, ground beef,  or roast beef have so many uses, where to start?!

Do have extra beef broth standing by, in case you don’t make enough for all jars in the cooking process.

Sirloin Tip Roast

For sirloin tip roast, I simply roast it as always, so it is “ready to eat”. I prefer to slow roast, and very often use my big Nesco roaster, as it uses a lot less energy and doesn’t heat up the kitchen as much as my big oven.

Once it is roasted to suit me, I simply slice it, pack it to 1and 1/2 (1 1/2) inches headspace, add liquid/gravy to cover, leaving one inch headspace, clean jar lips thoroughly, cap and process.

I use the liquid created in cooking, which I filter, then add my favorite ready-to-use gravy mix and water. You don’t even need to cook the gravy mix addition – just add it to jars; it will cook and thicken during processing, after which it’s just “heat and eat”!!

I usually buy a 10-12 roast, serve a meal with it, and can the leftovers; I usually get about 5 quarts leftover.

Watch for MSG (Monosodium Glutamate) in these mixes and broths folks – they’ve love to put ‘em there! I use only brands that do not add MSG.

Ground Beef

  1. Allow about 2 pounds raw ground beef per quart; 1 pound per pint (m/l). I always pre-cook ground beef; if you tried to pack this raw and then process it, you would have one big clump and would have trouble getting it out of the jar, I do believe.
  2. Brown your ground chuck in a skillet and drain fat off.  Some people can ground beef with no liquid; I prefer to pack mine in beef broth; this broth can be used later as a gravy base or saved for another project, or just cooked down, as in taco meat. I personally do not like dry meat, so, I use the wet-pack method.
  3. Process like any other beef.

Chuck roast

  1. Allow about 2.5 pounds raw chuck per quart, about half that per pint. I like to cut it up into bite-size pieces, cover with water, bring to boil. Cook JUST until it is just browned throughout – no pink left in the meat. It will finish cooking during processing.
  2. While you’re prepping meat, put jars in dishwasher (if you have one) and wash; keep in dishwasher to keep hot. Or, wash by hand in hot, soapy water, rinse in hot water, and keep on cookie trays in 250 deg. F (121 deg. C) oven to keep jars hot and clean until ready to pack.
  3. Skim that gunky mess of the top – DO NOT can without removing this first. This stuff will get in between the rim and the cap and prevent seal on many of your jars – trust me when I tell you this. Strain broth before packing. Besides, you’ll never win a blue ribbon at the fair with that mess in your jars! ; )
  4. After straining the liquid – assuming you have not yet seasoned it (which you could, if you want), season to taste (or, add seasonings to jars, if you prefer) and pack your meats. Meat packs to within 1 and 1/2 (1 1/2) inches of jar top (headspace); now add your strained liquids that you made when boiling to cover meat by one-half (1/2) inch, which should give you the prerequisite one inch (1 inch) headspace.
  5. Clean your jars twice: once with a piece of clean paper towel dipped in hot water; and the second time with a piece of clean paper towel with white vinegar. If there is any fat residue on the lid, the white vinegar will get it.
  6. Place your boiled caps and boiled rings (30 second boil is sufficient) on jars – remember: this boil is not to sterilize – that will happen in the pressure canner – this boil is to make sure your caps and rings are clean and have no residue that might prevent a seal; place your jars (which are hot) down in water of pressure canner that should also be about the same temperature hot (remember what I taught you about thermal shock breakage? There cannot be a great difference between temp of jars and temp of water you set them down in).
  7. Put lid on canner; on medium heat, cook until the steam spews out of vent pipe; as soon as it starts to spew out at a noticeable rate, time for ten (10) minutes; this is the important  “10 minute tornado”. This will remove excess air from pressure canner, allowing it to reach and maintain proper internal temp for safe food canning. FAILURE TO TAKE THIS STEP CAN LEAD TO IMPROPERLY CANNED FOOD. If you are using a weighted gauge (such as a Mirro with only 5/10/15 lb. increments), this is not necessary, as it will vent out while cooking. It is ALWAYS necessary with a dial gauge, no matter what you are canning.
  8. After 10 minutes, place your weight on vent pipe. Bring to temp over medium to medium-high heat (I don’t know your stove or how hot it cooks) and hold it there; start timing as soon as it reaches proper pressure. If at any time it drops below the required pressure, bring it back by turning up heat just slightly, and start timing again. Just watch it so it doesn’t have opportunity to drop below temp for very long. You don’t want food cooked to mush. If you get too much pressure, GENTLY release a little using the weight (move it slightly to release pressure) until it reads correctly. Do not get in a hurry in releasing pressure – this can result in extreme temp fluctuations, which forces liquids out of jars.
  9. Process like any other meat: pints 75 minutes if 1000 ft. altitude or below @ 10 lbs. pressure; 12 lbs. if over 1000 and less than 2000; over 2000, 14 lbs. pressure for 75 minutes. Quarts: 90 minutes using same pressure guidelines.
  10. Allow canner to cool on its own. Remove lid. Wait 5 minutes. Transfer jars to cooling racks on towels (to catch mess). When completely cool (at least 2 hours) test lids: remember – tap metal lids around outside edges – NOT in centers as many web sites tell you. Remember why? I mentioned that in earlier teachings.
  11. If some did not seal, refrigerate and use within a few days (7-10). Or, reprocess them, cleaning jar lids thoroughly and a NEW metal cap. Never reuse a metal cap, other than for storing dry goods.
  12. Wash your jars; allow to dry. Mark lids with contents and date and store away!

Give yourself another  “Well done!”. You’ve earned it!

Fish

It is possible to can just about any meat. Some will, however, give better results than others.

For our fishermen and fisherwomen, here are instructions for canning fish:

Canning Fish (Unsmoked):

  1. Cut fish into jar length pieces, LEAVING SKINS ON.
  2. Soak your fish in a salty brine for 1 hour. 1 cup of salt to 1 gallon of water.
  3. While fish is soaking gather all materials needed. Start your water heating in your canner.
  4. Drain fish for 10 minutes. You want to be sure it is well drained.
  5. Pack fish into hot jars,(pints or half pints) skin sides out next to the glass.
  6. Leave a 1 inch head space. Do not add liquid.
  7. Process using same directions as any other meat, for the altitude where you are canning. Not less than 10 lbs. pressures for 90 minutes quarts, 75 minutes pints. Adjust for higher altitudes.

Canning Smoked Fish

The only difference between canning regular fish and smoked fish is that you will need to add more water to your canner – make sure it has at least four (4) quarts water before beginning the canning process (in other words, smoked fish needs to be nearly submerged for canning). I suppose this is because it is smoked, and, therefore, already a bit dried out.

A FINAL NOTE:  Even if you are not going to do a lot of canning NOW, get everything you need: knowledge (“how to”), at least one good book (Ball Blue Book of Canning); pressure canner; water bath canner; jar lifter (more than one!); jars, caps, rings, etc. Be ready for the day when you MUST preserve your own food without electricity.

Filed Under: Food Preservation

Best Survival Food Companies

March 5, 2024 by danecarp

Best Survival Food Companies

*Short Story: If you just want to buy the absolute best value and quality food storage for your family of 4 people and be done with it, get the Auguson Farms 1 Year of Food Storage for 4 People.

For folks that are in a position to buy commercially manufactured survival food, there are a handful of solid options available. However, commercial, pre-packaged food is more expensive. These products are made to be shelf-stable for several years, and even decades in some cases. 

Plus, let’s be honest, there are a lot of marketing dollars that pump the prices.

First, figure out how much food you’re getting for your money

One of the most confusing aspects of buying long term food from a manufacturer is trying to figure out how much you’re actually going to to get. Why? Because companies all use different measurements in their marketing and product descriptions, like “meals”, “servings”, “entrees”, and “pouches.”  These can be subjective and hard to gauge. 

To cut through some of the fog, we recommend people take a look at the actual calories they’re buying. This is an objective benchmark, that isn’t really up for debate or interpretation. We also like to take a look at the “cost per 2,000 calories.” This is simply because some packages are bigger than others. It might actually end up being a better deal to buy 2 or 3 of a smaller package, rather than 1 bigger package.

To help you take a quick glance at some of the more popular 1-year supply of food, we put together this handy chart:

CompanyPriceTotal CaloriesCost Per 2,000
Calories
 
Augason Farms$3,499.991,932,950$3.62See Complete Details
E Foods Direct$2,887.00720,480$8.01See Complete Details
Saratoga Farms$2,713.05735,243$7.38See Complete Details
Survival Cave Food$6,818.001,387,920$9.82See Complete Details
Wise$4,405.781,059,840$8.31See Complete Details
Legacy$8,790.001,698,720$10.35See Complete Details
Lindon Farms$3,899.00730,000$10.68See Complete Details
My Food Storage$8,163.991,590,620$10.27See Complete Details
Emergency Essentials$5,999.95679,530$17.66See Complete Details
Valley Food Storage$2,209.00299,665$14.74See Complete Details
Daily Bread$6,103.20720,672$16.94See Complete Details
Backpacker’s Pantry$47,080.002,467,860$38.15See Complete Details
Mountain House$4,999.99724,890$13.80See Complete Details

*prices last checked in May 2019

Mountain House Freeze Dried Food

1. Mountain House

Mountain House is the grandpa of the bunch. Started in 1969, they have the distinction of being the pioneer in the freeze-dried food game. Their food pouches were originally created for outdoor enthusiasts, that needed easy and nutritious meals in the wild.

Over time, Mountain House has added a variety of different prepper and emergency foods, conveniently offered in different sized packages. They have 2-day food supplies, all the way up to 14-day food supplies. They also sell emergency food storage kits, which have the advantage of being slightly more portable.

One of the greatest things about Mountain House is the taste. People always comment how surprised they are that the food just tastes exactly like anything else you would buy at the store (or better!). Overall, Mountain House is one of the most-respected, well-liked food storage companies, and an excellent choice for your food supply.

Check The Lowest Price on Mountain House Here


Auguson Farms Foods

2. Augason Farms

Augason Farms is best known for its #10 cans of individual food storage items (such as apples, bananas, or scrambled eggs). In addition to these however, they also offer complete entree meals, and month long buckets as well.

The Augason Farms packaging is usually in larger serving sizes (i.e. a 7-serving bag of macaroni), instead of a more individually-sized pouch. Because of this, it’s better suited to preparation at home in a kitchen, than in the wilderness.

While people aren’t necessarily over the moon about Augason, they generally have positive things to say about the taste and value. Whereas other companies may use “servings”, or number of days as a measurement, Augason’s “total calories included” is a very transparent and much-appreciated way to quantify exactly how much food you are getting.

Check the Lowest Price on Augason Farms Here


Wise Food Storage

3. Wise Food Storage

Though not quite as old school and original as Mountain House, Wise Food Storage broke onto the scene fairly early as well. In contrast to Mountain House however, Wise was created from the beginning with the prepper in mind.

They developed their food to be shelf stable for an incredibly long time (we’re talking 25-year emergency food supply). They also have a handful of entrees that are 100% vegetarian, so it’s great for those that might have specific diet requirements (always check ingredients list to be sure).

One thing to keep in mind with Wise Foods is that the actual pouches contain 4 servings. This is great if you will be sharing each meal with other people, but if you are alone, and want to really make your food last, it will mean that you need to store and re-(h)eat later. If you are at home, no big deal, but if you happen to be on the go, this could be a little tougher. This can also be a little misleading to some people when they are trying to figure out exactly what they are getting. What is advertised as “60 Servings”, actually shows up in 15 pouches.

We also don’t seem to hear quite as many glowing reviews about the taste of Wise Food Storage. Some people complain about it, and others say it’s just “ok.”

Even in light of these considerations, Wise is still a reputable company with great selection, and they offer lots of different configurations of food types in the buckets your buy.

Check the Lowest Price on Wise Food Storage Here


Valley Food Storage

4. Valley Food Storage

More than perhaps any other food storage company on the market today, Valley Food Storage bills themselves as the “healthy” food storage option. They make a really concerted effort to not use any “unhealthy preservatives”, MSG, and a bunch of other cheap filler industrio-food.

Some people may not actually care about whether or not their survival food had MSG in it or not, but for those that do, this effort is applaudable.

Like most of the other companies, they offer several different sized bundles and configurations (1, 3, 6, and 12 month options for long term food storage), and a handful of shorter time-period options as well.

Satisfaction guarantee, customer service, and an overall good track record.

Check the Lowest Price on Valley Food Storage Here


Thrive Life Foods

5. Thrive

Thrive Life is another brand that you’ve likely heard of, if you’ve spent any time researching prepper food. Thrive is known for its #10 cans of freeze-dried ingredients–fruits, vegetables, grains, meats, sauces, and more. You name it, and they have it.

Many people don’t realize about Thrive is that their company actually used to be called Shelf Reliance, and their flagship product was industrial strength rotating food storage shelves. They got into the food storage game shortly thereafter, and their food has been a huge success.

One thing that’s a little bit unique to Thrive is that they actually have a bit of a “network marketing” (or MLM) model for selling their food. Yes, you can buy it on Amazon or elsewhere, but you can also sign up to be a distributor and sell it yourself if you’d like to. Most folks are ok just eating the food, but hey, if it’s your gig–knock yourself out.

Check the Lowest Price on Thrive Life Food


Legacy Foods

6. Legacy Emergency Food

A relative newcomer to the survival food scene, Legacy totes themselves as the “lowest cost per pound” food storage provider. They figure this by calculating the total cost (including shipping), then divide by the total pounds. Per their graphics, they also claim to be the lowest per calorie.

Legacy Long Term Freeze Dried Emergency Food
Although we have them stored on top of cupboards in our laundry room, Legacy buckets feature molded plastic grooves along the bottom, so you can easily store them stacked if you would like.

Much like the other companies, in Legacy’s food buckets, they offer several different entrees, breakfast meals, snacks, drinks, and more. Compared to many food storage companies our there, people love the larger portion sizes. Legacy maintains a consistently high rating on Amazon (4.4/5 at the time of writing).

As a great tasting, modestly priced food storage, Legacy offers some tremendous value.

Check the Lowest Price on Legacy Emergency Food


 

You Want Some Free Emergency Food Samples?

If you’re on the fence about which survival food you should purchase, several companies will send you out a free sample of their freeze dried food (although you usually have to cover shipping). This is a cool option, because obviously, it can be expensive to buy weeks or months of your food supply, only to learn later that you hate it.

Date before you marry right?

Your best bet for scoring a free emergency food sample is to hit up the actual company (not Amazon or a retailer), although when it comes time to purchase your survival food, usually Amazon has the best price. Simply go to their website, look for the contact page, and ask them if they can send you a sample. More often than not, if they offer free samples, you will see it advertised plainly on their home page or in the website menu.

Here’s a quick list of some of the food storage companies that offer free samples, and the pages where you can request a sample:

  • Augason free sample
  • Wise Food free sample
  • Valley Food Storage free sample
  • Daily Bread free sample
  • My Food Storage free sample
  • Survival Cave Food free sample
  • Harvest Right free sample

Survival Food Storage FAQ

How Much is A Year’s Worth of Food?

One of the best “calorie for the dollar” food storage companies is Auguson Farms. For a family of 4 people, a year’s worth of emergency food would cost $5,250 (at 2,000 calories per person, per day). This amount is obviously very general, and the calorie amount of food needed for your family would be different if you had small children vs. 4 adults. 

How much rice do I need for a year supply?

Rice is one of the better foods to store because of its low cost and long shelf life. Families should store at least 300 pounds of grains per person, of which 25-60 pounds should be rice. This provides a solid staple food store that can be built around.

How much does freeze dried food cost?

Because of the intense processing it undergoes, freeze dried food is sold at a premium price, with prices ranging from $3-17 per 2,000 calories (one food storage company actually sells their food at a price of $38 per 2,000 calories!).

How do you store food for a disaster?

Emergency food storage should be “shelf stable” for the long term (many manufacturers will claim to be a 25-year emergency food supply). It is best stored in air-tight, water-tight containers in cool, dark places. Some of the most effective and convenient ways to store bulk staples (such as rice, pasta, and other grains) are in sealed #10 cans, or plastic 5-gallon buckets. The amount of light and heat in the storage area has a direct relationship to the time it takes for food stores to break down and/or spoil.

Filed Under: Food Storage

How To Make Yogurt in a Thermos [Recipe]

March 4, 2024 by Seasoned Citizen Prepper

There are many ways to “make” yogurt. We will focus on one: thermos yogurt, as it is easy and cost-effective. If you don’t already own a thermos or two, they are usually not hard to find in second hand shops, but you will need a WIDE-MOUTH thermos for this project. You could probably use regular one, but, it will be harder to get the yogurt out.

A thermos is an excellent heat retainer; this will provide the even, slow heat needed to ferment your yogurt.

Yogurt is nothing more than milk that has been fermented by special strains of beneficial bacteria. It is a FERMENTED food, which IS, in and of itself, “probiotic”; it is not necessary to buy a “brand” to get a probiotic; all yogurt (as is true of all fermented foods) are “probiotic”.

Yogurt can be made from any kind of milk, whether raw or pasteurized (let’s not even get into that argument right now!); it can be cow’s milk, goat’s milk, yak milk, whatever you have. I have not tried yak milk, but the point is, you should be able to make yogurt from any kind of milk. You can make yogurt from skim, whole, or any fat content milk.

You will need a “starter” for your yogurt. The simplest thing to do, as long as it is available, is to buy a ready-made yogurt at the grocery. Don’t skimp on quality here; there are many makers of yogurt and, without question, some are healthier than others; read the labels; know what you’re buying before you buy it. For starter, buy only plain yogurt. You can add your fruits, etc., later.

As a rule: use one-half cup (1/2 cup) yogurt to each quart of milk; stir well, to make sure there are no lumps.

Try to use only glass bowls, glass or stainless steel pots, and stainless steel tools for preparing your yogurt. Avoid plastic, wood, and other materials that might “taint” your finished product.

First, heat milk to “almost boiling” (but do not actually boil it – just look for bubbles around the outside edges of your pan, then, let it cool. How much milk? First, determine how much your thermos will hold; then, use the formula given above, adjusting as needed.

Rinse your thermos out with very warm (not hot) water just before the next step.

When the milk has cooled to “luke warm”, add yogurt to milk. Now pour this mixture into your pre-heated wide-mouth thermos, and place the lid. Allow to set 4-6 hours before refrigerating. Leave it alone during this time.

Properly made yogurt is rich and custard-like, with a creamy, slightly tart taste. Homemade yogurt tends to be sweeter than store bought.

If, after refrigerating, you see “waterish” stuff on top, this is whey. You find this in store-bought yogurt, too. Don’t discard it! Stir it back in or drink it – it is rich in vitamin B12 and minerals!

Tips and Tricks for Yogurt Success:

  1. Do not disturb the milk while “brewing”; even small movements can cause whey separation, which will change your results;
  2. Don’t overheat the milk (don’t boil it); don’t allow it to cool completely, either; either will cause the retardation of the bacteria, and the yogurt will not ferment properly;
  3. Do not use old starter; it may not do its job well; On the other hand, a culture that is too “new” (fresh) will not do its job well, either – so if you make your own starters, allow it to age a bit before using (at least 24 hours).
  4. When you make a fresh batch, save some for your next starter; starter should be used within five (5) days.

Yogurt will keep well for about 8 days under refrigeration and properly packed in an air-tight container. It can also be frozen for several months (who doesn’t love frozen yogurt?)!!

Filed Under: Recipes

What Preppers Need to Know About Small Game Hunting

March 4, 2024 by Seasoned Citizen Prepper

To survive in the wild when SHTF, you have to learn to hunt the most abundant forms of game. This includes rabbits, squirrels, quail, turtle and even the occasional chipmunk, if pickings are slim. One thing is certain: When things start to get ugly, you will need to be able to take whatever game you can, if you expect to be well-fed.

To maximize the benefits of the hunt, here are few things to keep in mind.

Small Game vs. Large Game

Stalking is one of the most effective ways to get squirrel and other small game. Normally, the best time to hunt both is in the early morning, although late evening is good too. Unlike big deer, who will bolt at the slightest noise, small game will hang around a second or two longer. Be ready, though, because they are much faster at the getaway once they decide to take off.

The Best Kill Shot

Unless you want to use the brains for food, the best kill shot for a small animal is a headshot. There are a few good reasons for this.

First, a head shot is a direct kill and won’t damage the hide. Squirrel and rabbit hides can be tanned extremely soft, and they are excellent for boot liners and children’s clothing.

The second reason: It maximizes the amount of usable meat you can harvest from the animal. This also keeps a majority of the long bones in tact. If preserved correctly, the long bones can be used for sewing needles and awls, fish hooks and a variety of other tools preppers need living in the wilderness.

Know What to Keep and What to Discard

Small animals are more susceptible to rabies and other forms of parasites. When you gut the animal, be on the lookout for any indication of illness or disease. If you see anything that looks suspicious, don’t keep the meat. Bury it with the rest of the entrails and make sure it won’t be able to be dug up by another animal looking for food.

If the hide and bones are in good shape, clean them exceptionally well before using them or preserving them.

Do Not Over Harvest

Limit the number of animals you take from one area. One of the best ways to do that is by trapping. Not only does trapping allow you to conserve your ammunition, it also makes sure you take animals from different areas at different times. Set your traps and go about your business.

After a few hours, make your rounds and harvest your rewards. A properly set and bated trap will net animals on a regular basis, if you continue to move and cover them frequently.

Common Sense Rules

No matter where you are or where you hunt, always be aware of your surroundings. Now is the time to take a hunters safety course online so you have a good, working understanding of what is expected of you while you are out in the woods.

A smart hunter knows where to find his prey, but he also knows where his competition is. Make sure you have the advantage by keeping your weapons and traps at the ready.

Filed Under: Survival Food

6 Best Survival Garden Layouts [With Crop Lists & Square Footage]

March 3, 2024 by Seasoned Citizen Prepper

Anyone interested increasing their self reliance, going off-grid, or simply providing for their family when times get tough should be heavily focused on creating a productive and sustainable food source. The foundational building block for this is a survival garden.

Providing enough food to sustain your family can seem like a daunting proposition that would require several acres of land. But with a little planning and consideration, you can create a productive garden that will serve you and your family well all year long. 

A survival garden provides the nutrients and calories you need to survive.

What is a Survival Garden?

The simplest explanation would be that it is a garden capable of growing the food you and your family need to survive (or at least a large portion of it) until the next growing season.

This may seem straightforward, but when you break it down and see how many calories, vitamins, and minerals you need to replace daily to stay healthy, you realize there has to be some serious planning and consideration put into it.

Survival gardening has a critical urgency about it, and doesn’t have to be pretty.

The Martian Survival Gardening
Mark Watney, farming potatoes inside a plastic dome in the movie “The Martian.”

If you’ve seen the movie “The Martian”, you can use the example of Mark Watney, who formulates a plan to survive the harsh climate of Mars by potato farming in his own feces. Is it going to make the cover of Better Homes and Gardens? No. Did it keep him alive? Yes.

When you consider how important food security is to your family, there is no reason not to do everything in your power to make the most effective survival garden possible.

In addition to keeping you alive, there are a few other reasons why having your own garden is beneficial:

  • Health Benefits: Starting a garden for the resulting health benefits alone is worth it. Do you know what most people do when they have access to fresh, free produce? They eat tons more of it! Even if you are relatively careful with what you eat, increasing your produce consumption will always benefit you. 
  • The Money: Eating your own produce can save you some significant coin. And to top it off, you could also take it to the very same markets where you used to spend your money and make some money. You probably will not get rich, but you’ll certainly be able to offset some costs.
  • Help Feed People in Need: In times where you’re not depending on every calorie from your survival garden to feed your family, another option is to donate the surplus to a local food bank or family in need. The extra potatoes and carrots you are tired of seeing in the cellar could be the reason someone’s kid has a little more to eat.

Survival Garden Layout Examples

If you are trying to provide a chunk of your family’s calories from the homestead, then you need to be really smart about your survival garden layout.

So what do survival gardens look like? Well, that question has a lot of answers. There are many different types of gardens, each with their own corresponding perks and benefits.

It is perfectly acceptable to use a pre-established clearly defined archetype, or you could take your inspiration from several styles and create something unique to your situation and property. 

Here are some terrific and time-tested survival garden layouts to help get your wheels spinning:

Square Foot Gardening provides an efficient, space saving way to maximize yield for area.

1. Square Foot Gardening

Square foot gardening was originally devised as a way to teach growing capabilities and capacities to people in underserved areas. They can be made in nearly any size or configuration.

There are some solid reasons you might choose to follow a square foot gardening format. The planting guidelines prevent crowding while helping to maximize the space available and eliminate the wasted space of row planting. Similar plants are grown in non-linear configurations as they would in the wild so that they are not crowded out and can reach optimal size.

This same aim of efficient use of space also applies to how the garden is physically built. It is a raised bed that is visually divided by materials like wooden dowels, string, or twine tacked into a square-foot grid. This allows the cultivation of personal amounts of produce, in small areas, with little need to travel.

As they are raised beds, less bending is needed, so they are less work to maintain.

During WWII civilians were encouraged to grow ‘victory gardens’ to offset some of the need for staple foods required by troops overseas.

2. Victory Gardens

The victory garden is seeing a comeback in these uncertain and turbulent times. While it started as a way to reduce reliance on staples in order to free up rations during the second world war, it is once again enjoying a resurgence in popularity.

Victory gardens are designed to provide most of what a family of two to four people will need for much, if not all, of the year. With a high reliance on beans, drying and preservation will be crucial for maximizing the usefulness of the garden.

A keyhole garden gives the gardener the advantage of being able to stand in one place and tend the total surface area.

3. Keyhole Gardens

Keyhole gardens are perfect for hot and particularly dry climates. They consist of a wide round garden that is several feet deep and has a small radial arc of material removed.

With this material removed, the gardener can stand in the center of the garden, with the produce at approximately waist height. All areas of the garden can be reached easily by the gardener with very little strain on the back.

Since they are so deep, a key benefit of constructing keyhole gardens is their resistance to drought. Cardboard layered into the soil also helps to prevent water loss through evaporation. The center is preferred to be a compost bin with a base of rock at least the size of gravel, to facilitate drainage. As the material in the bin composts and is watered into the surrounding soil, it helps feed the crops in the garden. 

Keyhole gardens do not make especially efficient use of space, since they are often quite a bit deeper than simple raised beds, but they do offer an extremely rich substrate to grow in.

Since they are fed by the compost, as well as being primarily watered from there, keyhole gardens are perfect for root vegetables like carrots, radishes, and beets, and leafy vegetables like spinach, lettuce, chard, and herbs.

A ‘food forest’ emphasizes plant guilds and dispersed plantings to maximize production.

4. The Permaculture Food Forest

One of the hallmarks of a permaculture style “food forest” is that it’s typically not in 1 specific “garden.” Rather, the plants and trees making up a food forest are strategically scattered throughout an area, to take advantage of microclimates, optimal growing conditions, and companion plantings as much as possible. 

If you have a larger area and are looking to build an extremely diverse and naturally productive garden, creating a food forest modeled on permaculture principles might be the perfect option.

The benefits of permaculture systems are myriad. They not only focus on boosting biodiversity across the board, they also promote function stacking.

For example, a portion of the food forest may utilize clover as part of the ground cover. Clover could “stack functions” by not only preventing weeds, but also acting as a nitrogen-fixer, increasing the available nitrogen for neighboring plants. A 3rd function of a clover ground cover could be that it’s a source of pollen for important pollinators like bees and butterflies. This mentality will extend to many aspects of gardening and is the foundation for the entire permaculture model.

“The Backyard Homestead” book offers a variety of garden layouts for different sized areas, from 1/8 of an acre to 2+ acres.

5. The Backyard Homestead Layout

The concept of a “homestead” is one that feels bigger than just a vegetable garden. Instead, a homestead typically incorporates fruit trees, perennial plants like berries, animals like chickens and goats, honey bees, or any number of other things. Still, at its core, the goal of a homestead is in line with survival gardening–support and sustain the lives of the people living there. 

The Backyard Homestead Book is a popular and info-packed resource for planning maximum food production, even on postage-stamp-sized lots in the city and suburbs. It has a comprehensive walk-through of all the pertinent info you need to begin your journey towards self-sufficiency and self-reliance.

It covers the basics like garden design and crops to plant, but then it takes things a step further, by covering material on food preservation, highlighting methods like pickling, canning, even drying, and dehydration. This gem will help you through the entire food production process, from seed to snack.

In “The Self Sufficient Backyard”, Ron and Johanna Melchiore share the garden layout they have used at their off grid homesteads.

6. Self Sufficient Backyard Layout

This is one of those resources that you can keep on your bookshelf, and every time you read it you seem to find something new and useful in it.

It is written by a couple that would be considered modern-day pioneers, living a lifestyle that includes growing their own food all year, collecting water, producing natural remedies from foraged plants, and using renewable energy.

It is a great book for anyone looking to begin the transition to a more self-sufficient lifestyle, or anyone wanting to learn how to effectively use just a quarter acre to produce food and energy for their own family.

What should I grow in my survival garden?

That is a very open-ended question, but we can start to narrow it down by your growing zone and garden location. It is important to have a large variety of nutrient-dense vegetables, and ideally ones that can also be stored in some long term fashion, whether it is by canning, drying and dehydrating, pickling, or cellar storage.

Nut Trees for The Survival Garden
Nut trees supply valuable protein and calories for survival.

Proteins & Fats

You will need plenty of protein and fats in your diet. Protein is needed to build and maintain muscle mass and fats are needed as a source of energy. 

  • Nut trees: Hazelnuts, hickory nuts, walnuts, pecans, chestnuts, and so many others. The options for nut trees that will grow in the US is impressive. Nuts can provide a source for healthy unsaturated fats, as well as omega-3 and omega-6 fatty acids, and are full of vitamins and minerals.
  • Chickens: While not a vegetable, you certainly can raise chickens in your garden area. You will need to take some infrastructure precautions to ensure they do not eat your plants, but letting them free range in the area will keep your gardens largely bug free, and cut down or eliminate the need for separate feeding.
  • Beans: An important source of vegetarian protein, beans and other legumes also provide ample fiber and a robust dose of antioxidants. Even if you are growing chickens or other livestock for meat, beans will be a vital source of supplemental off-season protein.
Backyard Corn for the Survival Garden
Backyard corn is easy to grow, nutritious, tasty, and can be dried and stored.

Carbs

Carbohydrates are forms of sugars that occur in starchy or fibrous foods. They are an energy source and are broken down and metabolized into either long-term or short-term energy.

  • Potatoes: Potatoes are a fantastic and long-storing carbohydrate. It is an easily grown root vegetable that stores well and can be used in countless ways. A smart planting of potato slips can contribute hundreds of pounds of potatoes for your stores.
  • Corn: A relatively fast-growing cereal grain, corn is very versatile and can be used and stored in many ways. With minimal processing, it can also be converted to feed, flour, alcohol and fuel.
  • Beans: You thought we ran through all the benefits of beans? Nope! Beans will also fill a slot for complex cards, giving you a source for the long term, all-day energy you are going to need to keep your homestead running.
  • Squash: A plant that is incredibly nutritious and versatile, squash is another vegetable that can store easily, in its native state, for long periods. The meat is generally eaten roasted or steamed.
  • Peas: Peas are a good source of starches, like potatoes, they are great thickeners. They are high in fiber, protein, and vitamins A, B6, C, and K.
Greens and Micronutrients for Survival
In addition to critical calories, a well-rounded survival garden needs to include vitamin-rich greens and vegetables.

Vitamins and Micronutrients

Vitamins, minerals, and other nutrients help your body to function by providing essential components to support bodily processes.

  • Chard: A leafy green that is great in salads, and adds a splash of color. A common ingredient in healthy diets, both the leaves and the stalks can be eaten.
  • Spinach: A super healthy leafy green. Loaded with antioxidants and nutrients, and a great source of iron.
  • Garlic: Closely related to onions, garlic is in the same family as leeks, shallots, and chives. Garlic is a long-standing favorite and is used to season cuisines the world over.
  • Broccoli: The tiny trees that are the bane of every child’s dinner plate. One of the most versatile plants, can be eaten raw or cooked, and the leaves, stalk, and flowering head can all be eaten. Growing broccoli provides a great return on investment.
  • Cauliflower: Another relative of the mustard plant, cauliflower often resembles cheese curd but has a texture that couldn’t be more different.
  • Kale: A close relative of cabbage, kale is packed with nutrients and vitamins. Care should be exercised not to eat kale to an excess, however, as it contains a compound that can interfere with thyroid hormone synthesis.
  • Cabbage: Is a leafy green that gives a tremendous amount of leaves on each densely packed head. They can grow very large and can be stored for long periods and used as needed, like potatoes and other staples. A great source of vitamins K and C, along with significant dietary fiber. 
Medicinal Herb Garden for Survival
Medicinals herbs, such as lavender, lemon balm, and calendula are a fantastic way to add value to a survival garden.

Medicinals

You may want to consider adding a section in your garden to contain your medicinal plants. These are plants that can be used to treat common ailments like headaches, inflammation, and pain. Often made into teas, salves, or pastes. Common medicinal plants you may want to consider include:

  • Calendula: known to be an antifungal, antiseptic, healer of wounds.
  • Cilantro: Helps digestion, possibly linked to heavy metal removal from the body.
  • Lemon Balm: Relaxing effects with possible antiviral properties.
  • Peppermint: Helps with digestion if brewed in tea, and soothes aches when applied topically.
  • Rosemary: Increases oxygen to the brain, a great alternative to caffeine.
  • Mullein: Can help heal respiratory infections.
‘Victory gardens’ were simple row gardens emphasizing beans and other staple vegetables widely adopted by civilians during WWII.

How much space do I need to grow it all in?

That is probably the best part about a survival garden–there is no one single way to do it that will be best. Do what is right for you and your circumstances. This means it is extremely easy to adapt this information to your needs. From tiny urban gardens to acres of country land, there is something for everyone.

Urban gardens are growing in popularity and are becoming more widely permitted. There is a push in many urban centers for green rooftops to reduce HVAC load and provide additional food for building residents.

Agriscaping is transforming common landscapes into productive agricultural spaces. This can look like neighborhood food forests or fruit and nut trees alongside the street in place of ornamentals. Many neighborhoods have begun creating spaces that function as both food forests and community gardening space. 

All that said however, one of the early contributors to SCP Survival shared the following recommendation from her grandma who was a serious gardener at the turn of the century:

Grandma Carrie’s Rule of Thumb (how big does my garden need to be?)

Grandma Carrie grew and preserved everything that her family ate in the late 1880’s and early 1900’s short of wheat, sugar, salt and spices.  Her garden was well over a quarter acre. And she had a rule of thumb – One quart per person, per day.

Since she was feeding ten people she would need to can 3,650 quarts of fruits and vegetables.  Add to that the crops that went into the root cellar, some crops were dried and stored in burlap bags, milk and eggs were gathered year ‘round, animals were butchered as needed and the meat was stored in crocks.

To supply each member of the family with their “quart a day” you should plan approximately 1,000 to 2,500 square feet of garden space for each person.  This amount depends on soil fertility, the crops you choose to grow, methods of cultivation, and the length of your growing season. Other food sources like fruit trees and livestock also play a huge part in the amount of vegetables you need.

A 2,000 square foot garden would be a 40 foot by 50 foot section of your property. This can be a pretty significant undertaking especially if you have no experience gardening. Crops such as squash and cucumbers require significantly more space than spinach, Swiss chard, carrots, onions and beets.  Peas, tomatoes and some beans do best with a fence, cage or pole to grow UP on which decreases the square feet necessary.

Here are some rough estimates on space to yield for feeding four people for one year:

CropGarden SpacePoundsCanned or Frozen
Beans (green)300 square feet17590 quarts
Beets100 square feet7524 quarts
Broccoli100 square feet7548 quarts
Cabbage100 square feet15040 quarts
Carrots100 square feet12030 quarts
Cauliflower120 square feet6020 quarts
Corn200 square feet15040 quarts
Cucumbers24 square feet (3 X 8)5535 quarts
Onions50 square feet1305 quarts dehydrated
Peas200 square11020 quarts
Peppers50 square feet7530 quarts
Potatoes300 square feet400 – 500Store in cool, dry place
Squash24 square feet (3 X8)10020 quarts
Swiss Chard or spinach200 square feet9035 quarts
Tomatoes150 square feet500200 quarts *

*Estimate based on ½ whole and ½ sauce

This chart would be 2,018 square feet of growing space without any paths in between them. I have given the yield in quarts but to have a better idea if this would suit your family, you will probably want to consider pints (or twice as many jars half the size). For example, one pint of beets would probably be adequate for a meal for four people, a 100 foot row will yield around 48 pints which would provide enough beets for one meal a week for a year.

This chart provides 657 quarts plus potatoes, about half of Grandma Carrie’s rule of thumb. 

‘Keyhole gardens’ circular configuration benefits from central watering and composting.

What is the best location for my survival garden?

You will want to make sure you evaluate all possibilities before deciding where to put your garden. Make sure you consider the exposure to the sun, water, soil, and how easy it will be for you to access it as often as you will need to.

Most people think about the first few, but not everyone considers access. The last thing you want to do is put a big garden plot in what you think is a perfect place, only to have to lug all your gardening equipment or any tools you need, to a garden that is now quite inconvenient to get to.

When considering your garden’s placement, you will naturally have to consider the sun and water placement. If you live in the northern hemisphere, you will want to make sure your garden is south of your house, or far enough north of your house that it will not lie in its shadow. Use this same logic when plating. When possible plant so that the taller crops, like corn, on the north end of the garden bed, so that they do not cast a shadow over the other plants.

One of the principles of permaculture is the zones of use. The mindset being that you do not want to expend excess energy to get to things you use all the time, and things that are largely self-managing should be the farthest away. It also simplifies care and harvesting. The zones of use are:

  1. Zone 1 is the most visited area or areas. This zone will have things that either need daily attention or that you use daily. Examples of things to grow in zone 1 are seedlings, salad components, cooking herbs, or anything that needs daily water, like a lemon tree. Believe it or not, animals are ideally sited in Zone 1.
  2. Zone 2 are things that still need attention, but not specifically daily. If your particular setup allows for it, zone 2 is irrigated. Zone 2 is also mulched. Examples of zone 2 plants would be smaller fruiting trees and trellised fruit vines, bramble berries like blackberries, raspberries, and blueberries. This is also the zone that contains windbreaks, ponds, and barrier hedges. Plants that are only harvested once or twice per season belong here like potatoes and corn.
  3. Zone 3 is semi-managed. An example of zone 3 plants would be large and mature fruit and nut trees. It is not mulched, nor visited on any regular basis.
  4. Zone 4 is a minimally managed area for foraging wild foods and growing timber.
  5. Zone 5 is completely and entirely unmanaged. All pure native plants and wildlife. 

Keep in mind what you will eventually be planting, and be sure to plant companions together when possible. The main idea of companion planting is that you plant different crops together, they help sustain each other and ensure you have a strong and fruitful harvest.

Companions can be used for pest deterrents, balancing out nutrients, and attracting pollinators. For instance:

  • Tomatoes work very well with beans, chives, and oregano, but not with corn, dill, and potatoes.
  • If you want a successful cucumber and squash harvest, plant corn, beans, or radishes with them.
  • If you have pine trees on your property, be careful not to place your garden where the shed needles fall, since they make the soil very acidic.

For more on companion planting, check out this comprehensive guide.

Soil For Gardening
Liberal composting and adding organic matter contributes to loose, loamy soil (the ideal structure for growing vegetables).

Knowing Your Soil is Crucial

The quality of your soil is the imperative. Much more needs to be done to prepare a garden space than simply digging up the lawn. “Friability”, or easy to crumble is normally the first obstacle to overcome. Grasses can grow in clay – or cracks in asphalt for that matter but vegetables need lose, crumbly, loamy soil. Amendments need to be made in the way of compost, perhaps sand and possibly nutrients to alter the pH level.

How do you intend to water your garden? Tomatoes for example, need to be soaked 6-8 inches deep every 5-10 days depending on the heat and amount of rain you have. If the grid is down, is your water down? If you are collecting water in a rain barrel, do you intend to drip irrigate or hand water? Is one barrel enough? Do you have all the materials on hand now?

Want Some Extra Credit? Here Are Some Gardening “Force Multipliers”

The following are tools or techniques used to be more effective at reaching your objective of producing enough food to survive. They help you get the most out of your garden by helping to create ideal conditions, one way or another, for your crops.

Greenhouse for Survival Garden
A greenhouse gives you an extension of the growing season at both ends, allowing you to start sooner, and grow later.

Greenhouse

A greenhouse is one of the common things that people think of when picturing a large garden set up. A greenhouse is a large open building that is largely transparent or translucent, allowing in sunlight, but also sealed against the outside elements.

Utilizing a large amount of solar gain, greenhouses are able to trap solar energy in the form of heat, and can often be used to extend the growing season.

Greenhouses can be used to grow later into the year, in order to gain an extra harvest or two, and also to begin earlier each year, by providing a warm place to germinate seeds and give plants a head start before transplanting to the soil once the threat of frost has passed.

Cold Frame Gardening
Operating on principles similar to a greenhouse, cold frames amplify the suns rays to maximize cold weather plant growth.

Cold Frames

Cold frames use the same principles of trapping solar energy as greenhouses but on a much smaller scale. Cold frames are made from a wooden box similar to a raised bed, frequently angled toward the south. They will usually have a windowed lid, often made from an upcycled home window that is attached to the top with a hinge so that it can tilt open for easy access to the contents.

Cold frames are frequently used in the same manner as full-size greenhouses, to either continue growing past the fall frost dates or to gain an early start by germinating seeds and plant starts before they would normally be able to be put in the ground.

Row Covers for Gardening
Row covers are another way to extend the growing season and protect plants from cold weather.

Row Covers

Row covers are also known as low tunnels. A crucial force multiplier for those who utilize planting rows for their crops, row covers can protect from freezing temperatures, wind, and pests.

They are essentially tiny hoop houses that run the length of the planting rows. They are very low to the ground and often only allow around 1-2 feet of clearance for the plants they cover, and as such are only suitable for very young plants or those that grow close to the ground like root vegetables and greens. They help keep the soil in the row warm for early season starts, and for late-season harvests.

Backyard Chickens for Survival
Backyard chickens offer eggs, meat, pest control, and fertilization.

Chickens or livestock

Introducing chickens or other small livestock to your survival garden can have several benefits. Not only will they create manure that will be essential to your composting and fertilizing capabilities, but they also can help reduce pests and insects.

People do not give chickens enough credit, they are amazing little omnivores. They eat just about any organic matter you allow them to, but they will also meet you halfway on the cleanup, tilling most of their waste directly into the soil. You do need to keep an eye on them, and make sure that they aren’t sick. If so, there are a handful of DIY chicken doctoring things you can do own your own.

Guinea fowl are another valuable addition, frequently eating so many nuisance insects like ticks, that they will not need any supplemental feeding. Using livestock in conjunction with a rotating pasture system will allow you to always have perfectly fertilized and productive soil ready for planting, while your livestock always has fresh ground to work.

Compost for Garden
Composting accelerates the breakdown of organic matter to fertilize and add vital nutrients to your garden.

Composting

Generating your own compost is an incredibly valuable process for anyone seeking to grow large amounts of high-quality produce.

Composting is the breaking down of common solid organic matter by aerobic bacteria. It is used to recycle organic material into nutrient-rich material called compost that is similar to humus. It is one of the best soil amendments and can be a valuable fertilizer for self-sustaining gardeners. 

Vermicomposting for Gardening
Vermicomposting is another means of accelerating nutrient breakdown, in order to create a nutrient-rich additive to add to the garden.

Vermicomposting

Similar to composting, the goal of vermicomposting is to create a nutrient dense growing medium from discarded organic materials. The basic process is the same, the organic matter that would normally be discarded is added to the compost pile, decomposed aerobically, and turned into a usable highly fertile soil material.

The difference is that in normal composting the main agent breaking down the matter is aerobic bacteria and other organisms, and with vermicomposting that process is accelerated through the use of earthworms to break down the material faster and more thoroughly than without. 

Rainwater Harvesting
Rainwater harvesting is a low cost way to contribute to the water that your garden needs.

Rainwater harvesting

One of the most valuable resources for gardeners, water, literally falls from the sky. With a little preparation and sweat equity, a rain catchment system can quickly and easily be implemented, allowing the storage of large quantities of water for later use.

Rainwater harvesting is often done with a minimum of special equipment, generally requiring little more than a roof, a gutter with a downspout, and a rain barrel or water tank. Provided measures are taken to discard the water contained in the “first flush” which will contain debris and contaminants that should be allowed to wash away before collection begins, rainwater can easily be made potable.

Earthworks and Landforms

A very effective method of large scale gardening and permaculture resource management is to create earthworks to help control water flow and erosion. These methods can include:

Ditches spread and convey water from high to low ground, and can be designed to weave throughout your garden, maximizing surface area and contact with multiple plants.

Ditches

Ditches are essentially a trenched drainage device. Ditches are going to be fairly deep and narrow, allowing an easy way to direct high volumes of water that will also be fast-moving.

A ditch will often be used to prevent a surge of water volume from eroding other portions of the gardening or crop areas. For example, ditches may be utilized to funnel water runoff from a large rainstorm away from delicate beds of greens or herbs, and directed to a swale where it can be spread out over a larger area, slowed down, and allowing the water to settle and soak in.

Swales for Permaculture Gardening
Swales help to slow and spread water throughout the landscape to where it is needed most.

Swales

Swales are large, open, gentle depressions that follow the contour of the land, allowing stormwater runoff a place to slow down and spread out over a larger area, eventually facilitating settling and absorption.

They are broad and shallow and are only slightly depressed when compared to the surrounding area. Swales are perfect for filtering runoff, immobilizing contaminants, pollutants, and particulates by allowing them to settle and be filtered by the surrounding soil. 

Hugelkultur mounds act like a nitrogen sponge, with carbon-heavy, woody material at its core.

Hugelkultur

Often thought of as the perfect companion to swales, the hugelkultur or more simply “hugel”, is a hill or a mound for growing, that is built on a foundation of a pile of felled trees or rotten wood. It is ultra-low maintenance and drought-resistant garden and earthworks feature that will produce a fertile mound of growing medium that only gets more productive over the years as the wood continues to rot and release nutrients into the soil around it. 

While it takes a good bit of effort to physically construct the hugel, it will compound the benefits it offers over the years. For the first several years after its creation, the aerobic decomposition will have an exothermic effect on the soil, giving you a longer growing season.

In the years following that, the wood will begin to shrink and will create voids that allow a self tilling effect to take place. The rotting wood will also hold water like a sponge, retaining large amounts of water that are automatically released into the surrounding soil, combating dry conditions, and reducing or eliminating the need for separate irrigation. 

The main thing to remember with hugels is to use wood in the core that will rot and decay. Do not use any rot-resistant or allelopathic woods like cedar, black walnut, l7 or black locust. They will not rot, and will actually inhibit microbial growth, significantly reducing the desirable effects produced by the decomposition.

Preservation and Long Term Storage

While the short term goal with your garden is to feed yourself and your family, the long-term goal is to have a decent stockpile of survival foods. There are many methods that you can utilize that will allow you to save your harvest and to feed your family over a tough winter or in an emergency.

Root Cellar for Food Preservation
Root cellars are a time-honored method of extending the harvest over the winter.

Root Cellars

One of the oldest long-term storage methods, root cellars work to preserve and store food by using the cool dampness of being underground to their advantage. Root cellars are nice and cool, but still above 32°. They are also humid which allows vegetables to retain their moisture and preventing them from turning rubbery. In addition to root vegetables, cellars are great for storing nuts, seeds, and even some fruits and vegetables.

Canning Fruit and Vegetables
Fruit canning or “bottling” can be done with just a hot water bath, and extend the life of your harvest for several years.

Canning

Canning is a great way to save meats, stews, veggies, and jams for later use. With canning, you use mason jars to store and preserve your foods and either pressure or hot water method to seal them. The lids of the jar have a wax ring that seals to the rim of the jar. If left in a cool, dark place, home-canned items can be stored for a year or more.

Solar Food Dehydrator
Though not as long-lasting as food that is canned, dehydration is a low-tech, cost and energy efficient way to preserve your garden’s yield.

Dehydration

Dehydration is a fantastic way to preserve your favorite fruits, vegetables, and even herbs and meats! Some items you will want to eat in the dried form such as apple chips, others you may want to rehydrate by soaking in hot water or adding to soups and stews.

Saving Seeds for Survival Gardens
In order to complete the food production loop, seed saving gives you what you need to start again next season.

Seed Saving

While most seeds you won’t be eating, saving your seeds is an easy way to get a jump on your garden for next year. Saving the seeds from fruits and vegetables that you grew this year allows you to cut down on your gardening costs in the future. Heirloom seed preservation is also important for genetic diversity and can be traded and sold.

Getting Started

There are many articles out there inferring that preppers should buy seeds packaged for long term storage so that when the shit hits the fan they can dig up part of the lawn and grow their own food. This is a woefullly misguided notion. Remember, the time to start learning is not when you are hungry.

Once you have taken all the factors into consideration and chosen a location, it is time to plan out your garden. Make a sketch on some graph paper of your garden, and get that seed catalog handy. If you need help planning it, the Farmers Almanac has a very easy to use garden planner.

Once your garden is prepared, your layout is decided, and your seeds have arrived, you probably want to get planting, but you might be wondering when is the best time to start. The good news is, every season has things that can be planted, whether you are in spring, summer, or fall, there are plants that should be going in the ground to get ready for the upcoming growing season. 

You might think that because you weren’t ready until late August, you may have missed the summer season. And you would be right! But that’s alright, late-season brassicas do well, and fall is the perfect time to get some garlic and onions in the ground. The same goes for spring and summer, there is always something that needs to get in the ground soon in order to be ready for the upcoming season.

Winter is the perfect time of year to solidify next year’s garden plan. It is time to inventory the pantry to evaluate the most popular crops and adjust the garden space allotments accordingly. Heirloom seeds are inventoried, new seeds are ordered and indoor starts are planted. 

3 Sisters Garden Corn Beans Squash
The ‘3 Sisters’ garden is an American classic, combining corn, beans, and squash in symbiotic fashion.

Need An Easy Way To Start? Try the 3 Sisters

If you are eager to get started with an easy garden, you may want to try out a small plot with a “3 sisters garden”. This is a method that has been used for thousands of years to grow multiple crops in one place simultaneously, and is a perfect example of function stacking and utilizing natural architecture. This layout can also be adapted to nearly any type of garden.

You will plant beans (generally a pole bean), sweet corn, and squash. The rationale behind the companion plants here is that the corn provides a sturdy stalk for the beans to climb, while the squash leaves shade the soil, minimizes water loss, and prevents weeds, and the beans fix nitrogen in the soil for the corn and the squash to excel.

Filed Under: Gardening

Lawns Are a Liability, Here’s Why

March 1, 2024 by Seasoned Citizen Prepper

GIMME GREEN is a documentary examining American homeowner’s obsession with a beautiful residential lawn.

Here are some of the facts from their website:

  • Lawns are America’s most irrigated crop.
  • Lawns cover 41 million acres.  Every day, more than 5,000 acres of land are converted to lawns in America.
  • Americans spend more than 40 Billion dollars a year on their yards.
  • Americans apply more than 30,000 tons of pesticides to their yards every year.
  • The National Cancer Institute finds that children in households using lawn pesticides have a 6.5 times greater risk of developing leukemia.
  • In an effort to save water, Las Vegas lawn owners are paid a dollar per sq. ft. to remove their grass.
  • On average, Americans use 40 to 60 percent of their water on their landscapes.
  • In order to maintain all the lawns in America, it would take approximately 200 gallons per person per day.

For me, I decided to reduce my lawn and incorporate more edible plants after reading books like Beautiful No Mow Yards, and Edible Landscaping.

Then came dreams of a backyard homestead and a front yard garden inspired by YouTube videos, by Growing Your Greens and Garden Girl TV.

At first I was doing my part to preserve Mother Earth.  Then I was growing food to save money and to become more self sufficient.  These days I’m thinking about the lawn as part of my OpSec (Operational Security).  What I mean is, if the day should come when I can’t mow the lawn, whether it be the result of an EMP, peak oil, or the danger of wandering zombies – an overgrown lawn could be a big liability.

First, tall grass invites critters of the creepy crawly kind that you don’t want to be up close and personal with. Also, passing zombies, looking at a path worn in the tall grass can easily see how you routinely travel through your yard.

So, this spring, part of the plan is to reduce my lawn by 25%. I’m planning more vegetable beds while widening existing beds and sneaking a few edibles among front yard shrubs and flowers. I want to have plenty of good soil on hand now.  As part of my layout now, I’m also planning a nice, wide paver-path to yard destinations like the tool shed and the chicken coop.  Last, I’m looking to replace a small portion of the lawn with pavers for safe secure outdoor cooking area and a vegetation ground cover (strawberries?) to make it all pretty.

So whether you’re going green, growing food or considering life after the SHTF, start planning ways to make your lawn serve you instead of the other way around.

Filed Under: Gardening

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