How To Get Started in Alternative Energy

Alternative Energy Sources

In today's world, part of being prepared for emergencies is having some sources for alternative energy that can power your critical devices and home systems. The good news is, there are lots of solutions!

First, Understand Your Energy Requirement

In the grid tied world that most of us live in, we have such an abundance of energy, that many of us have never given it a second thought. We grow up not knowing much about how it works, because we never really have to.

In an emergency however, all of that changes in an instant. And for those of us that choose to live off grid, it's even more important to understand the fundamentals of energy.

One of the first things to understand is that any kind of heating and cooling devices require the most power. So refrigerators, air conditioners, heating units, electric stoves, blow dryers--these use a ton of electricity. Because of this, we normally try to meet these needs with other means. Refrigerators and stoves can be powered with propane, heating can be accomplished with wood stoves, and dryer your hair can be accomplished...... with the air! :-)

Next, Reduce Your Home's Energy Requirement Where Possible

After trying to find other energy sources for as many of these types of needs as possible, the next piece of the equation to think about is reducing the actual electrical requirement of your fixtures and appliances. There are several "low-energy" appliances that you can find online and in big box stores. They are usually more expensive and smaller sized, but can be run on far less energy.

With your overall electrical requirement significantly reduced, you can focus on emergency and alternative power sources, knowing that your energy can now be stretched much further.

Off Grid Battery Banks

One of the quickest and easiest ways to give yourself some emergency power is to acquire a couple of battery banks. They can store energy independent of the grid, and help you get through short periods of time when you don't hvae power from the grid.

There are different sized battery banks for different applications:

Portable Battery Banks - Perfect For Handheld Devices

A portable battery bank is a great way to store a small amount of energy for small devices like our cell phones. Most often, these portable battery banks are small and handheld, like a pack of cards.

In addition to charging our cell phones, they can be used to charge cameras, GPS units, or anything else with a USB input.

Mid-Sized Emergency Power Supplies

The next larger battery to consider is a mid-sized emergency power supply. Think of the black boxes that look like a computer tower for a desktop computer, and sit on the floor.

These usually double a surge protectors, and are great as a backup power source for critical electronics--particularly medical devices like pumps, oxygen machines, CPAPs and more.

Because of their built in protection for sensitive electronics, they are also great for your phones, computers, internet routers, and more. If you are thinking about getting one of these for your home, check out AMC and UPS battery backups. Both are reputable companies that have been manufacturing backups for a long time.

Whole Home Battery Backup (or battery bank)

Like the name implies, a whole home battery backup is intended to power your home's critical electrical systems and appliances. Usually these batteries are able to be connected with your home's electrical panel (or they are already hard-wired in), to use all the existing wiring. This way, you can use your circuit breakers to decide which appliances receive energy.

The most important circuits to power in an emergency will likely be your lights, your fridge, freezer, water pumps, and communication devices.

Whole home battery backups come in a number of different technologies and flavors. Some are connected with solar or wind energy generating systems. Others store power collected directly from the grid, to be used later when there are emergencies.

You can find battery setups based on lead-acid or lithium ion. There are giant batteries that stand alone in their own enclosure, and there are other systems that involve a bunch of individual batteries that are hooked together.

Power Inverters That Work With Your Car

A power inverter for your car can be used to access a small amount of power in an emergency. Yep, I'm talking about those things with wall plugs that you plug into your cigarette lighter. These devices are changing the direct current from your car's system into alternating current, like you would normally use when you plug things into a wall outlet in your house.

So basically, if you want to use a car inverter during an emergency, you would plug it into the cigarette lighter, and then run an extension cord into your home to power the devices that you need.

Essentially, this is like your own mini generator. Although these are not able to deliver as much power, you can get an inverter that will work with your car for a fraction of the cost.

Generators

A generator is another solution for creating off grid energy. Generators are small motors that basically turn fuel into electricity. They give you the ability to keep things running during power outages. During Hurricane Katrina, there were some folks powering their houses for several weeks with generators and gasoline they had stored.

Generators can be portable (think about the red Honda generators that you see on construction job sites), or permanently installed in one place (like the Generac whole house units that are attached to a home's foundation).

They can run on a variety of different fuels. Gasoline, diesel, natural gas, or a combination of multiple fuel types. You'll also hear people talk about "solar generators", that really are just large batteries that are made to work with solar panels and store electricity.

Like an off grid solar system, generators need to be sized appropriately for the amount of wattage you need. This is determined by adding up the wattage requirements of the different appliances and systems in your home.

Off Grid Solar Energy

While there is such a thing as a grid-tied solar system, they don't serve preparedness purposes, because they are don't have a means of storing any power, and don't work during power outages or other emergencies.

On the other hand, off grid solar systems are connected to batteries that can store electricity. This means that they can be used in emergencies when nobody else has power.

For your solar setup to work independent of the grid, you essentially need 4 components:

Solar panels - The black panels that sit on your roof or near your home and collect the sun's rays

Batteries - Where the electrical current is stored.

A Charge Controller - Monitoring how full your batteries are, and protecting them from being overcharged

An Inverter - Changes the electricity stored in your batteries from "direct current" to "alternating current", so it can be used to power things in your home.

Residential Wind Turbine Generators

Creating power with a wind energy system involves the same components as an off grid solar system, with one obvious difference. Instead of collecting energy from the sun's rays, you're collecting energy from wind, with a turbine.

Wind energy is considered "greener" than solar energy, although it comes with some marked disadvantages. The biggest one is that the use cases for actually generating meaningful energy from wind turbines are so much more limited. Your home site needs to be in a really specific location in order to be able to harvest enough wind to make it worth it the cost.

Another vulnerability of wind systems is that the actual wind turbine is more fragile and susceptible to damage. If you think about it, the process for collecting solar energy is totally passive (solar panels sit there and soak up the sun's rays), while the process for harvesting wind power is kinetic, and involves a spinning turbine. This alone makes it more likely to wear out or malfunction.

The last thing to think about before you decide to invest in wind power for your home, is that the installation itself is far more complicated for wind than it is solar. Installing a wind turbine involves setting up a tall tower, and getting the angles perfect.

Apart from all of this, prior to setting up a wind generator system, you should really have a wind study done for your site, which takes a full year to do correctly.

When you combine all of these factors, you will find that most home sites around the world are better suited to solar power than wind energy. However, for homes where this isn't the case, wind power is completely viable, and with extremely careful planning can be a solid option.

Micro Hydro Systems

Like wind, a micro hydro generator is powered by the spinning of a rotor. The difference obviously, is that a micro hydro system is propelled by water, whereas a windmill is powered by wind.

In the right situations, micro hydro has some powerful, compelling upside. The biggest is that the flow of power can be continuous. The water doesn't "set" every night like the sun does, or come in "gusts" like the wind. It runs all day and all night.

It is so consistent, that some homeowners with micro hydro systems installed on their property don't even have batteries to store electricity. There is enough power constantly flowing from the water, that they don't need to store any (Unless however, your stream is affected by seasonal flows, in which case, you might not have power come the end of the season).

Micro hydro setups can also be installed with relatively little impact to the stream, fish or other wildlife. It takes some know how, but it doesn't have to be complicated.

The biggest downside to micro hydro power is that it is uber site-specific. When compared with the amount of people that have access to wind or the sun's rays, folks that have access to enough running water on their property to make micro hydro a viable energy solution are extremely few.

There are also some states that have regulations about micro hydro systems, falling under the water rights set of legislation. If you are thinking about pursuing it, make sure you're not running afoul of these. History is replete with nasty entanglements over water (especially in the American West!).

5 Ways To Be Green and Sustainable at the Individual Level

March 25, 2024 by Seasoned Citizen Prepper

A lot is being done at the local, state and federal level to conserve the planet’s resources and to help lead a more sustainable lifestyle. Thankfully, many utility companies have started to implement renewable and alternative energy into the power that it sends to houses and businesses. Cities have started composting programs, have (controversially) banned plastic bags, and implemented “pay as you throw” trash programs.

With so much being done at higher levels to increase conservation and sustainability, it’s understandable that people have started to slack off at the personal level. If this sounds familiar, here are some things that you can do to get back on track. Each of these is a simple, reasonable change you can make in your daily life.

1. Shop around to make sure you’re getting the best deals on your utilities.

If you live in a state like Connecticut, Ohio or Texas, where the energy industry has been deregulated you’ve got more wiggle room here. Spend some time researching different Texas electric companies (or Ohio or Connecticut, or wherever you live). Look for programs with sustainable or renewable power sources that you can opt into. Consider switching to natural gas, which is better for the environment and your pocketbook all at the same time.

2. Make some eco-friendly changes to your house.

Tankless water heaters will give you permanent hot water, less water use and a tax credit. Solar panel installation can also save you money on your taxes while helping you reduce your electric bill and energy usage all at the same time. Energy efficient appliances save money and use less power as well. You get the idea.

3. Set up a compost pile in your yard.

This reduces the amount of trash that you toss into landfills (in plastic bags so it can never biodegrade). It also provides you with an eco-friendly alternative to fertilizer for your yard. If you live in an apartment or do not have a yard, set up a compost bin. Your town probably has a community composting program that will take your drop offs.

3. Build a rainwater collection tank if you have the space for it.

Rainwater can be used for things like watering the lawn, washing the car, etc. It reduces your water consumption which, in addition to being environmentally friendly, saves you money on your water bill.

4. Use cloth bags at the grocery store.

This is better for the environment than using plastic bags. If you live in a city with a plastic bag ban (like Portland or San Diego) it can save you from having to cart paper bags around. It might even save you money since many of the cities with the bans also charge for paper bag usage.

5. Use reusable coffee cups, cold beverage containers, and water bottles.

These save you from having to use paper or plastic cups, which even though these are recyclable now, isn’t as good for the environment as a washable beverage container. It’s also worth noting that many coffee shops will give you a discount off of your coffee if you bring in your own cup, so that’s a money saver on top of being an environment saver.

There are lots of little but important things you can do to help save the world. How many more can you think up?

Car Inverters Are Perfect for Emergency Power

March 22, 2024 by Seasoned Citizen Prepper

Generators are expensive, and for most routine “short” emergencies they are actually not necessary. Utility companies have power restored in 2 to 3 days in most cases.

But, how do we keep the babies fed and safe in the meantime? Use your automobile. Or more specifically, use your automobile’s battery.

Here’s how to do it:

All you need is a car inverter. There are two ways to hook it up and depending on which way you hook it up will depend on which inverter you want to buy.

1) Plug it into your cigarette lighter. Check your car to see if the 12-volt power outlet (cigarette lighter) is ON, even without the key being on. Just plug something in and see if it comes on. If your outlet is ON even when the key is off, then you can plug an inverter into yourpower outlet.

I like the Bestek 150 inverter because it has two USB outputs in addition to the AC outlet. One USB is 2.1 amps for charging iPads and smart phones.

Plug the inverter into the car’s cigarette lighter outlet. Plug an extension cord into the inverter and run the extension cord inside the house. Then you can plug a few lights or small appliances into the extension cord. WARNING – do not attempt to plug in an air conditioner, or microwave or fridge or freezer. I said SMALL appliances.

The limit to your available power is the maximum output of your cigarette lighter. Don’t risk blowing circuit breakers or damaging your car’s electrical system.

2) Plug directly into your car’s battery. If your car’s 12-volt outlet is not always ON, then you will need a battery clip in addition to an inverter. You can also use this type of hook up if you wish to use a larger inverter than your cigarette lighter can handle.

Open the hood and attach the clip directly onto the car battery. Red on red; black on black. I have a Roadpro Battery Clip. Plug the inverter into the cigarette lighter outlet on the clip. Run an extension cord inside the house.

There is an added benefit of using the battery clip and that is that you can use a more powerful inverter like the Duracell 800-watt. This runs at 150 watts through the cigarette lighter or 800 watts when clamped on the battery.

About your extension cord. Use a good heavy-duty shop or garage cord, not those little flimsy things we use to extend a table lamp. Look for one with a power strip built in.

Look for an inverter with a usage-display. Monitor your usage, DON’T run your battery down. You may have to idle the car from time to time to recharge the battery. DON’T idle the car in an enclosed garage. Be smart.

OK, so now you have power inside your house, what can you do with it?

Most people first want light. Let’s start there. Preserve your battery power by using a low watt LED light bulb. The 2-watt provides nice overall room illumination, but the 7-watt is better for working, cooking or reading. So get a few different bulbs. I got a large pack at SAM’S Club at a reasonable price.

Make the low watt bulb brighter by installing it into a shop light with a metal reflector.

Of course, you can run a battery charger for your flashlight batteries and numerous other SMALL appliances.

I keep all of my emergency power parts in a plastic bin in the garage, near the front of the car, so everything is together when I need it. If the power is out, I don’t need to be tripping thru the house looking for parts and pieces.

Last winter when we lost power I used my car battery to run one 7-watt light bulb, an electric hot plate to make hot meals, the coffee pot, to charge my iPad and to keep my flashlights charged up. It was just enough to get us by for a short spell. We weren’t uncomfortable or too inconvenienced.

This Christmas, my husband bought me a portable ice making machine. Using the 800-watt inverter, I can make 28 lbs of ice a day then put it in my freezer or cooler. It will be a luxury to have cold beverages if the power goes out this summer, but it can also be used for first aid treatment or to keep medicines cold. Next, I hope to find an efficient bread machine.

A power usage monitor like the P3 Kill A Watt allows you to know how much power an appliance is using. You plug the appliance into the monitor and plug the monitor into the house outlet and read the power usage. Search YouTube, to find several videos that feature the Kill A Watt family.

Start paying attention to the power usage of your favorite appliances and if they are power hogs, consider updating them with newer, more efficient models.

In summary, for less than $60 (a battery clip, 800-watt inverter and a low watt LED bulb) you can have emergency power – right now, without the expense of a generator. Then as resources allow, keep adding additional low watt small appliances that add safety and value to your family.

Solar Power for Dummies

March 21, 2024 by Seasoned Citizen Prepper

I’ve been wanting to learn about solar power because it can be extremely handy in a situation where you might need emergency power, or if you go off grid. I’ve watched a number of YouTube videos and read about solar power, but still just didn’t get it. John from Iowa upgraded his solar system and sent me some small panels and an inverter and other stuff to play around with. Now mind you, I’m not mechanically inclined at all and a bit leery of electricity as it is magic to me. But with a bit of email advice from John, I now have light!

So here is what a dummy like me THINKS she has learned about solar power so far…

The solar panel itself is worthless without a battery to charge.
The solar panels are pretty fragile for the most part and break easily if tipped over – that is why the mounting hardware is so important.
You have to keep them clear of snow and debris or the light is blocked.
The larger the panel, the faster and more/bigger batteries it will charge and keep charged – note that older panels may be big, but may not charge as much as newer panels.
Amorphous panels do a better job of collecting light in low light or cloudy conditions, but aren’t as efficient as the crystalline panels.
Once you get above 100 watts, you can usually find panels for around $1 a watt.
You need to connect the panel to the battery – usually with battery cables.
You need a charge controller of some kind to not overcharge the battery if you are just going to set it up and walk away from it.

NOTE FROM JOHN FROM IOWA: “Charge Controller. You must remember that electricity runs both ways. That’s why you can put it back into the grid. The little solar panels I sent you have built in Diodes to prevent this from happening. A Charge Controller does also, but it also controls the rate the electricity goes to the battery when charging. Too much cooks the battery, and ruins it.” Ten watts or less is usually considered a battery maintainer, but will not be able to recharge the battery if drained. You SHOULD have a deep cycle marine battery to hook to the solar panel as these batteries are meant to be recharged many, many times. Now understand that I don’t really get this as a regular car battery is constantly being recharged by the alternator when you drive it. Plus the small solar panels used to maintain batteries are often used on car batteries when the car is in storage, etc. But remember that I don’t know much about this subject, but I may be ahead of you… Those deep cycle marine batteries start at $75 if you have an old one to turn in and the more they can put out the pricier they get. I bought a used one at an RV dealership for $25 that I am playing with to learn about solar. NOTE FROM JOHN FROM IOWA: “Deep cycle and car batteries are different in the respect that car batteries are never meant to go below about a 50% charge for any length of time. That low of a discharge for a length of time, will destroy the car battery. Repeated deep discharges will kill a car battery fairly quick, as Sulphur usually forms on the plates as well as deterioration of the plates themselves. This is due to the fact that the lead plates actually change tier chemistry as the battery is discharged. The car battery has much thinner plates as you’ve likely noticed by the overall weight difference. A deep cycle battery, on the other hand, is made to go deeply discharged and recharged back up with little to no ill effects, repeated times. It has heavier plates and construction that allows this to be okay.” There are lots and lots of 12 volt (battery powered) appliances out there. Think of truck stops and camping centers – coffee makers, little freezers and refrigerators, phone and laptop chargers. Amazon is a good place to start looking for 12 volt appliances. BUT you don’t have to go with 12 volt appliances, you can buy an inverter sized correctly for the 110 appliances you want to connect. Here is a basic rundown that will give you an idea of what appliances take how many watts – these are all approximate numbers:

Large Household Appliances (refrigerator, washing machine, etc.) 2,500 Watts
Well Water Pump 2,400 Watts
Electric Circular Saw 1,600 Watts
Microwave Oven 1,400 Watts
Hair Dryer 1,300 Watts
1/3 HP Submersible Pump 1,000 Watts
1.7 Cu. Ft. Small Refrigerator 600 Watts
Flood Light 500 Watts
20 inch TV/DVD Combo 300 Watts
Xbox 200 Watts
Desktop Home Computer 150 Watts
DVD Player 60 Watts
Laptop Computer 50 Watts
Battery Charger for a Cell Phone 25 Watts

Under KISS (Keep It Simple Stupid) that means that to run a SINGLE large appliance you will need at least $2,500 in panels alone – not counting mounting hardware, wiring, batteries ($100 to $150 apiece and Lord knows how many you would need!), installation, etc., etc. So this is why people who are off grid and using solar panels to generate electricity have propane appliances and use their electricity judiciously. Practically no one can afford an American lifestyle from just solar energy and battery power at this point in time, and solar panels have come down a lot in the last 8 years. So, I have been talking with an electrician about a startup solar array on my barn – 300 Watts expandable. Installed, about $1,500 – remember that I don’t understand electricity (it is magic to me) so I have to have someone install it. He is doing grid tied electric. At this point in time my local electric company will install for FREE a new meter that will run backwards – I just paid my electric bill and they said my meter can be programmed to run with solar, so no money upfront. You might want to check this out with your electric company. However, I want to do both grid tied AND off grid if needed – versatility makes sense to me as a preparedness person. The electrician hasn’t figured out how to do that yet… He is new to solar, but the only one in town even experimenting with it. Plus I would like to experiment with wind power and hydro power as I have a creek here.

Simple Off Grid Solar Setup in Southern Virginia

March 20, 2024 by Seasoned Citizen Prepper

Hello all. I’m Keebler from central Southern Virginia, 30 years now in the boonies and I’m on the end of the power line. I’m in a small prepper start up group in Concord, Virginia, near me where I showed some of my portable solar projects [these are the permanent installations].

I bought this place when returning from Beirut, Lebanon in June 1984, I also bought a used 17 ft. travel trailer in bad shape too. It took almost 4 years, living in my camper, to get power. I had a small 5 watt PV panel that kept the camper battery charged. The camper van has two batteries.

In ’89 I finally could afford a bigger trailer. Wanted more solar and I found a used two panel hot water solar panel unit – finally it’s on the roof too. Retired in ’92, barely surviving, had a stroke in ’95 that set me back a few more years.

Solar does wonders to heat water – the well water is around 56 degrees. With just two pumps, one for antifreeze and one for fresh water circulating, the well water gets hotter through a heat exchanger. Heats a 30 gallon water heater, prior to the electric tank – saves me big bucks on the power bill.

In November of 2008 I invested in my alternative energy setup and bought a 45 watt solar kit from Harbor Freight – I think it was $189.99.

I had a better battery by now. Once I got it up on the roof. WOW!!! 3.2 amps – really great, kit had (3) 13 watt CFL’s in it & a controller, I still have one hooked up on it in the basement where the Battery Group is,(See picture)Battery’s are (Group 4D) very heavy about 160 filled, I bought them from Tractor Supply @ $149.99 each.

I have three all controlled separately via rotary selector switches. I have since added 2 more solar panels @ 90 watts each to the battery group, the H.F. unit still charges just fine. But on Group 27 battery, or my lawnmower start batteries and basement lights.

My next project was 12-24 DC volt well pump when the power is off. Bought a pump for $680, like the one Northern Tool sells – 100 ft. 1/2″ black pipe, pump max in the water says 50 ft. – so that’s what I did. 70 ft. pipe to a spigot & another 12 volt 4D battery & switch, I have 95 PSI water. Still needs a pressure switch – coming soon – but it’s an emergency system. Soon a solar panel will maintain that battery. got the panels and the bladder tank – just too much to do right now.

Next project after this one will be 24 volt solar panels to a 28 gallon water heater, I tested it and it will work.

My farm truck has solar panel to maintain the battery, so does the camper van.

I have 14 LED lights in the house all off the battery bank. All batteries are either in a safety box or on a safety tray in case of any possible leak – baking soda near too. All output circuits are fused, I only use DC LED volt meters so I know what the load is.

I recently found a DC 12 volt ceiling fan. I took one of the original CFL lamps I modified in a House Bridge lamp, alligator clamps, and I can hook it up to my (Jump Start) battery unit if necessary.

5 Best Dual Fuel Generators for The Money

March 14, 2024 by danecarp

A generator is an incredibly important piece of equipment, and a dual fuel generator takes that portable power generation station and runs it off of either gasoline or liquid propane.

Whether you use a generator for supplemental daily power at your remote living area, amenities for the weekend at the hunting camp, portable power for camping or boondocking, or emergencies during grid power outages and powering your bug-out location, there is a dual-fuel generator for you.

There are a lot of advantages to using a dual fuel generator. With the flip of a switch, you can change from a conventional gasoline-powered generator to a more versatile propane-powered generator. Being able to use two fuels adds a degree of versatility to your generator, and can even help you save on fuel costs.

Gasoline is readily available, but with gasoline futures speculators and oil commodity prices getting higher and higher, it may not be long before gasoline is too expensive to be used in an engine that doesn’t travel.

Propane gives you the option of having a much larger reserve of fuel on hand at any one time. It’s difficult to safely store several hundred hours worth of gasoline safely, but you can store hundreds of gallons of liquid propane in the large residential tanks, and you can store it without it going bad like gasoline eventually will.

Convinced that a dual fuel generator is what you need? Here are the models worth seriously considering:

The Short Answer

1. Westinghouse WGen7500DF Dual Fuel Portable Generator

L14-30R 120/240V 30A twist-lock outlet
Includes remote start key fob
Capable of on the fly fuel switching

Check Latest Price

The Westinghouse WGen7500DF Dual Fuel Portable Generator is the top dual fuel generator for a few reasons. Not only does it have Westinghouse lifetime support, but every single one is tested for functionality before leaving the factory. The 420cc Westinghouse 4-stroke OHV engine has a low-oil auto-shutdown that helps extend the life of the cast iron sleeve even further.

While on gasoline the WGen7500DF puts out 7500 running watts with 9500 peak watts, and while on propane, it produces 6750 running watts with a peak wattage of 8550 watts, though both lower and higher output models are available in the same line.

One of the many great features of the WGen7500DF is the ability to switch fuels on the fly. Gas up the 6.6-gallon 16-hour tank, connect a propane source, and when the gas tank is empty you simply turn the switch and change fuel sources without skipping a beat.

It is also Westinghouse Smart Switch ready, so you can have your WGen7500DF take over if the utility power goes out, providing a seamless backup power source for your home. Start it whenever you’d like from the comfort of your home with the remote start key fob, it will reach your generator more than 100 yards away. This generator also has a push-button start on the unit, as well as a manual pull start.

Export your power through a main 30 amp L14-30R 120/240V twist-lock outlet, and two 20 amp duplex GFCI 5-20R 120V household outlets, so you have plenty of sources and plenty of juice. The digital hour meter helps you track your use at a glance, so you always know how long until your next maintenance task.

This unit is no featherweight, but the built-in handle and never-flat wheels make moving and positioning it almost a one-handed job. The vibration-reducing rubber feet make sure it stays where you put it. The price point on this one is definitely worth it with the features and capabilities that this unit has.

Other Great Dual Fuel Generators:

2. DuroMax XP8500EH

Digital multimeter to help track performance and usage
MX2 technology allows using 120V and 240V output at the same time
Robust all-metal construction

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The DuroMax XP8500EH is a powerful generator with a 16HP, 420cc engine that is designed to run on both gasoline and liquid propane spin a high-performance magneto with all copper windings. The all-metal construction gives this generator an added element of durability, even down to the control panel.

Generating 7000 running watts and 8500 watts at surge, this unit is strong enough to run most loads in your home, including refrigerators and freezers, air conditioners, lights, and tools. For distributing your power, the front panel has 4 120V 20 amp outlets, a single 120V/240V 30 amp twist-lock outlet, two 5V 3 amp USB outlets, and even a 12V DC automobile outlet. There are breakers for the DC outlets, one for each duplex 120V outlet, and one for the main 120V/240V outlet.

The DuroMax XP8500EH also comes with the DuroMax MX2 technology. MX2 allows the user to choose between operating the generator strictly on 120V, or splitting the output and using the 120V output and the 240V output at the same time. While activating the MX2 will slightly reduce the total available output, it allows greater flexibility for those who can utilize the dual output for high drain loads.

At 220lbs before adding in a full 7.9-gallon tank of gas this generator is one of the heavier ones in our rundown, however, the built-in handle and never-flat tires make it fairly easy to move and reposition when needed. You aren’t going to want to move it often, as it is a bit unwieldy, but you generally don’t buy units like these with a goal of maximum portability anyway.

3. Durostar DS10000EH Portable Generator

Large 8.3-gallon fuel capacity
All copper windings for increased longevity
Includes MX2 technology that adds voltage versatility

Check Latest Price

The Durostar DS10000EH is a very robust generator, cranking out 8,000 running watts, and a massive 10,000 peak watts from the 440cc 18HP engine. This power is put out through the 2 120V household outlets, 1 120V 30A twist lock outlet, 1 120V/240V 30A twist-lock outlet, and 1 120V/240V 50A heavy duty outlet. The generator construction is all metal, down to the control panel.

While running, the Durostar DS10000EH can configure the power output with the MX2 switch. One way diverts all power produced to the 120V outlets, and the other allows the use of the dual voltage 120V/240V 30A and 50A at the same time. This is a great feature if you need to run household appliances as well as high drain items like power tools or shop equipment. The high output and versatile voltage make this generator an ideal option for worksites, larger cabins, or homes with a larger load that would need to be maintained in an emergency situation.

Other features of the Durostar DS10000EH include an analog voltmeter, for making sure that your power levels are good at a glance. An idle control switch to control the idle fuel consumption when no loads are connected. DC charging posts make sure you can charge another battery easily while the generator is running. Separate main breaker for added safety. EPA approved safe for use in US National Parks, and the modest noise level makes them a good neighbor.

4. Champion Power Equipment 76533

RV ready generator sets up quickly
Fuel switch allows you to change between gas and propane quickly and safely
Easy to start in cold weather

Check Latest Price

The Champion Power Equipment 76533 dual fuel generator gives you access to a substantial powerplant with a bend toward being easily portable and RV ready. Running on gasoline, the Champion Power Equipment 76533 produces 3,800 running watts with 4,750 surge watts available. On liquid propane, both outputs are decreased but only by incredibly small amounts, giving you 3,420 running watts, and 4,275 surge watts.

The electric start quickly gets the 224cc Champion motor turned over and started. The digital Intelligauge helps you easily track the operating hertz and voltage, as well as the running time. This means you know how the generator is performing, and how long until your next maintenance milestone at a glance. The safety fuel switch makes sure the selector is not changed by accident or when fuel is not available.

Equipped with Cold Start Technology, the generator is designed to be easily started in the coldest weather and will run for 9 hours on one 3.4-gallon tank of gas, or up to 10.5 hours on a 20lb propane tank while only at half load. You have access to this power through 1 120V 30A TT-30R RV outlet, 1 120V 30A L5-30R twist-lock, and 2 120V 20A 5-20R household outlets.

This generator is a great choice for someone who has a relatively low number of appliances to run. For a small cabin or small to medium RV, this unit has plenty of power, plus the convenience of already having an RV outlet right on the panel, which is something that is becoming harder to find, in lieu of the twist-lock type of plug used for higher amperage connections.

5. WEN DF475T Dual Fuel 120V/240V Portable Generator

Can easily switch between gasoline and propane with the turn of a dial
Flip a switch to change from 120V to 240V
Electric start with key

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The WEN DF475T Dual Fuel 120V/240V Portable Generator is capable of generating 3,800 running watts and 4,750 surge watts when it is connected and running off of the gasoline fuel tank. When running propane, as is normal, the output is slightly reduced, but you still get a very respectable 3,500 watts running, and 4,350 watts in a momentary peak. The fuel source can be changed in just a moment by turning the dial.

Running for nearly 11 hours on a full 4-gallon tank of regular gasoline, this generator is loaded with outlets so that you can access your power without the hassle of converters and adapters. Including 2 120V 5-20R GFCI outlets, a 120V/240V L14-30R NEMA 30A twist lock, and a 12V DC cigarette lighter plug. The convenient voltage selector lets you choose between 120V and 240V, depending on what your power needs are at the home.

What To Look For

Power Ratings

This is usually the primary concern when you are shopping for a generator. You need a generator to power your things, so you need to be sure that it’s going to actually power those things, right?

First, you need to know what you are going to run, and how much power you will need. Many appliances will have an area where the power specifications are stamped, often this is a small metal plate or badge. This is where having energy efficient appliances can go a long way. Add up all the wattage requirements for the appliances that you will be running concurrently, add the highest starting load possible from those appliances, and add a generous percentage for fluctuation and surges, usually 20% or so, and that is the ballpark minimum output that you will need from your generator.

To give you an example: If you need to run a small cabin that has a refrigerator & freezer, tv, coffee maker, and some lights that could conceivably all be on at once, you are looking at an approximate total running wattage of around 2,500 watts or so. With the heaviest starting load of those appliances is the fridge and freezer, which needs a jumpstart of around 2,500 watts, giving us a running load and surge load total of around 5kw. If we add 20% to that, we have 6kw. So 6,000 watts is your minimum power need, without considering anything like tools, computers or digital devices, or internet equipment.

If you have a scenario like this, then either the Westinghouse WGen7500DF and the DuroMax XP8500EH would be ideal, since they put out 8kw and 7kw respectively, giving you plenty of wiggle room to power extras and unforeseen hookups. For more modest power needs, the Champion Power Equipment 76533 and the WEN DF475T both offer a generator platform with 3,800 running watts. This gives enough power for necessities without a lot of surplus power and wasted fuel that you won’t utilize.

Pull Start vs. Electric Start (or Remote Start!)

This feature can be a deal-breaker for many people. While a generator is always able to be started with the pull-cord, an electric start is always a more convenient and faster option. Electric start is not without its drawbacks, however. There is also the possibility of a remote start on some models as well.

Pull Start: This is the most common type of way to start small engines like those on generators. Just like with many other types of applications, the pull start cord is pulled quickly to rotate the engine and begin the combustion process. Many people do not mind a pull-start, but many also prefer to only use it as a failsafe or a backup if the electric start isn’t functioning for one reason or another.

The downside to this method is that it can be physically intensive to start if you have grip or movement issues. The cord is also a replaceable part, meaning it will eventually wear out and break, and will then need to be replaced. Without fail, this will happen at an inopportune time, and is most likely to happen when you do not have a spare on hand, so plan accordingly!

Electric Start: Electric start is the method preferred by most people to start their generator. It works just like the electric start on a car or motorcycle. There are a battery and a starter motor, and when the button is pressed or the key is turned, the starter motor spins the engine to start it running. Once it starts up the button or key is released and the engine is running.

Just like with a pull-start, there are components of an electric start system that will wear out or need to be replaced on occasion. There is a battery that will need to be kept charged and in good condition, and there is the starter motor that may need to be replaced if the solenoid goes bad or it otherwise wears out.

The battery is particularly important to store properly and keep maintained for those who do not use the generator regularly. For users that operate the generator on any sort of regular daily, weekly, or even monthly schedule, this will likely not be a problem since running the generator will keep the battery charged and maintained.

Remote Start: This is the current height of convenience for standard generators. This natural progression of the electric start, allowing the user to start the generator from distances up to 100 yards simply by pressing a button on a key fob. It functions just like the remote start function on a vehicle.

There are similar drawbacks to remote start systems as with electric start. There is a battery that needs to be maintained, there is also a starter motor that may need to be replaced someday, but there is also the remote start fob and receiving unit. While it may sound like a great convenience, and that very well may be the case, there are more parts that might end up getting worn out and needing to be replaced.

Main Outlet Type

This is an important factor to keep in mind in order to avoid having to buy an RV adapter or other items to adapt to multiply outlets. Usually, there will be one outlet per circuit breaker on the generator. Frequently there will be duplex outlets for the 120V current, and one each for large outlets that handle more than 20 amp service. Avoiding an adapter can help increase the life of the main outlet by reducing the weight of the plug.

Smart Switch (1 Point for Westinghouse)

This is a relatively newer option that is designed by Westinghouse and is only available on Westinghouse generators at this time. It works by plugging into your house power outlet and into the Smart Switch and monitors the utility power for any losses or outages. The switch allows several other appliances to plug into it, and uses the utility power to keep the generator battery charged and maintained. In the event of a power outage or loss of utility power, provided the generator is fueled up, has oil, and is in the run position, the switch will automatically start the generator and keep the appliances running with an uninterrupted power supply.

FAQs

Q: What Is The Difference Between Starting Watts And Running Watts?

A: There are 2 different types of electrical loads that are placed on generators, running loads and starting loads. When an appliance is running and operating, it generally uses a steady amount of power, for example, the average refrigerator and freezer will use 500-700 watts once it is running, to keep the system running, fan blowing, et cetera. But to start the compressor relay that kicks the sealed system on and actually makes the cold, there is a starting load of between 1,500 and 2,000 watts needed for just a moment or two. This momentary load is known as the starting watts.

Q: Can I Parallel Two Generators Together?

A: While there is a power-doubling feature known as “running in parallel”, it is extremely uncommon to see on larger generators, and even more rare on dual fuel generators. Running in parallel is often seen in a smaller class of generators known as “inverter generators.” It basically means you run two generators side by side, linked by a special kit or cable. This allows someone with a smaller inverter generator to buy a second unit of the same type and run them in parallel, doubling their initial power without having to invest in a larger generator, or while retaining a higher degree of portability.

The Bottom Line

When it comes down to it, a generator is a piece of equipment that can be extremely important to have, especially if you have one that can run off of gasoline or liquid propane. Dual fuel generators come with several advantages, from versatility to ease of use. You simply flip a switch and you can go from propane to gas with ease.

Some people use their generator as a backup if they have power outages on the grid, and others use it as a daily power supply while living off-grid. No matter what your needs are, there is a generator that can do what you need it to do. Our top pick is the Westinghouse WGen7500DF. This generator comes in handy as a backup power source for a house, as it has a sensor that automatically powers it up if the power to your home goes out. It also has the longevity to be used daily to supplement your existing power if needed. If you’re looking for a generator that has a higher fuel capacity, the Durostar DS10000EH Portable Generator may be just what you are looking for. The massive gas tank can hold up to 8.3 gallons of gasoline and will give you a long operation time at half load.

No matter what, having a generator for your off-grid homestead will allow you to have plenty of power so you can still enjoy the conveniences of electricity while still maintaining your off-grid lifestyle.

How To Safely Store and Handle Propane

March 8, 2024 by Seasoned Citizen Prepper

Many of us use 20 pound propane tanks in Barbeque Pits/Grills, space heaters, campers, etc. If you are like me, I have a couple of spare tanks because of hurricane season and other emergencies.

After seeing that massive fire of 20 pound propane tanks on July 30, 2013 at the “Blue Rhino” propane refilling plant in Florida, it got me thinking about how little I knew about the safe handling and storage of these highly flammable and explosive tanks.

So I started to do some research and found out a lot I did not know.

I thought I would share some of what I learned:

If you ever smell any type of gas immediately put out all smoking materials and other open flames such as the pilot lights on cooking stoves, heaters and water heaters.

If you are able to, safely turn off the cylinder valve. To close the valve turn it to the right (clockwise).

Immediately leave the area and call 911 or your local fire department.

Before you use any propane appliance, have a qualified service technician inspect your cylinder and appliance.

Some people may have difficulty smelling propane due to their age (older people may have a less sensitive sense of smell); a medical condition; or the effects of medication, alcohol, tobacco or drugs. Consider purchasing a propane gas detector as an additional measure of security if you use propane inside your camper or home.

Odor fade is an unintentional reduction in the concentration of the odor of propane, making it more difficult to smell. Although rare, this can be caused by the presence of air, water, or rust in the cylinder. New and reconditioned small empty cylinders that sit too long before being filled are prone to internal rust when moisture and air get inside.

NEVER store or place a propane cylinder indoors or in an enclosed area such as a basement, garage, shed, or tent.

NEVER store or place a propane cylinder in an area of excessive heat (120 degrees or higher) or near a stove, fireplace, or other heat source. The heat builds up pressure inside the cylinder, which may cause the pressure relief valve to release propane. Flash fires or explosions can result from exposing cylinders to heat.

NEVER store or place a spare cylinder under or near a barbecue grill.

DO NOT smoke or have any ignition sources such as flames or spark-producing electrical tools in the area while handling or transporting cylinders.

ALWAYS transport and store a cylinder in a secure and upright position so it will not fall, shift, or roll.

I have found a really easy and cheap way to securely store and transport a 20 pound propane tank. A 20 pound propane tank fits inside a plastic milk crate perfectly. Place the 20 pound propane tank inside a milk crate. Take a second milk crate and place it on top of the first milk crate. This makes a 20 pound Propane tank difficult to turn over and nothing can hit the value assembly. When you are ready to use the cylinder, just remove the top milk crate, make the connection and it is ready to use.

NEVER keep a filled cylinder inside a hot vehicle.

ALWAYS place the cylinder in a well-ventilated area of the vehicle when being transported.

ALWAYS proceed directly to your destination and immediately remove the cylinder from your vehicle.

The law places limits on the number of cylinders and the amount of propane that can be transported in closed-bodied vehicles such as passenger cars and vans. Ask your propane retailer for more information on state and local codes that apply to you.

DO NOT, UNDER ANY CIRCUMSTANCES, TRY TO MODIFY OR REPAIR VALVES, REGULATORS, OR OTHER CYLINDER OR APPLIANCE PARTS. Propane cylinders have special components such as valves, connectors, and other parts to keep them safe for use with grills and other propane appliances. Damage to any component can cause a gas leak. DON’T RISK IT! Call your propane retailer or a qualified service technician for assistance.

It is important to inspect your cylinder and outdoor gas appliances for leaks. Do this before using them for the first time each season, as well as on a regular basis. This can be accomplished in a well-ventilated area with a simple “bubble” test:

Apply leak detector solution or thick soapy water to the connection(s) between the cylinder valve and the regulator outlet.

Slowly open the cylinder valve and watch for bubbles.

If bubbles appear, close the cylinder valve, tighten the connection, and repeat the process. If bubbles still appear, call your propane retailer immediately.

I found that an easy way to do this test is to make a soapy solution out of dish washing liquid and water. I then place the mixture in an empty, clean spray bottle.

When you want to check for a leak, you simply squirt some of the soapy solution onto the area you want to check and watch for any bubble that may form. By using the stream setting instead of the mist setting, you can direct the stream directly on the area you want to check without creating a mess.

MAKE SURE YOUR CYLINDER IS EQUIPPED WITH AN OVERFILL PREVENTION DEVICE (OPD). An OPD is a safety feature that helps prevent small propane cylinders from being overfilled. An overfilled cylinder doesn’t have enough space left if the liquid expands when exposed to warmer temperatures. This can cause an increase in cylinder pressure and create potentially hazardous conditions.

Most cylinders with OPDs have special triangular hand wheels with the letters “OPD” on them. In many states, cylinders without OPDs cannot be refilled. If you are uncertain as to whether your cylinder has an OPD valve on it, ask your propane retailer.

ALWAYS close the cylinder valve and seal with a plug, even if the cylinder is empty. Ask your propane retailer if a plug is required. A plug or cap prevents insects from building their nest inside to threaded portion of the valve assembly. A plug or cap also keeps out the dust and dirt.

NEVER use a damaged cylinder or a cylinder that has been in a fire. All cylinders must be inspected before they are refilled. The law requires periodic inspection of cylinders, and it is against the law to refill out-of-date cylinders. The last inspection date is stamped on the cylinder.

NEVER dispose of your propane cylinder by throwing it in the trash. Check to see if there are municipal programs for collection in your area, or contact your propane retailer for guidance on disposal of the cylinder.

A propane leak has a strong, unpleasant smell, like rotten eggs, a skunk’s spray, or a dead animal. Propane manufacturers add the smell deliberately to help alert customers to propane leaks, which can create a safety hazard. You can ask your propane retailer for a demonstration to help everyone in your home or building, identify leaks.